In this video I go through assembling the hydraulic pump on our TEA20. I am fitting an S.61325 hydraulic pump overhaul kit and the S.60057 pump control valve.
Thanks Lance! I just pulled mine from a 1947 TE20 and spent 4 hours cleaning it. I have to replace the safety valve but based on your video, everything else looks like it’s in good shape. Thanks again :) Stephen from Detroit, Michigan
Thanks so much for your videos Lance. I have a 3000 ford and a 8n. You have given so much advice as well as encourage an old shade tree mechanic. I rebuilt my cav pump using your videos. When I first opened the pump I felt I'd been in it many times before. I've got to set my injectors now but I have no worries. Thanks again.
I really hope you are still going strong Bundy, your videos have been such a great help to be over the past 3 years with my TE20 rebuild. Can't thank you enough.
Good one Lance, Found this vid most helpful as attacked ad rebuilt my first pump, its working like a charm, not to mention a little cleaner after removing 60 odd years of dirt!
Thanks mate for your video i'm from gippsland victoria but in fiji donating my time to help fix the local farmer's tractors and don't know what break downs to expect till i get here . I couldn't get the rebuild kit but got enough to fix the pump. Cheers
Sure am glad you posted this video. I just ordered a new valve chamber assembly for my t020 and the output ports on my old one had orings around it, the new one did not nor did it have a place for them, nor did it come with a gasket. I put silocone around the ports to hopefully seal it. Gonna try it today, well see what happends
Thanks for this video.I’m redoing a 8n but you really helped me on something I had no answer for.Not even my manual explained the orientation of the pistons.Thanks again!
Thanks Lance. My first tractor is a TEA/D20 so I'm learning it all bit by bit. Your tutorials are a great help. Rgds Arnold Cook Moolboolaman 17AUG2021
@@BundyBearsShed Hi Lance, ,on my control which is notched,i don't know if the circlip is connected to the keyrod,do i need the keyrod and valve held together with this circlip,i 'm guessing yes ,but wonder what the keyrod is for. picture of oscillating control valve on your pump changes video of Tea 20. thanks ,Steve
Lance, the cam in my TO30 pump shows wear at or a bit more than the limit according to the book specs. So far I haven't had any luck finding a replacement. I'm hoping you might know a source for a new one. Thank you for the Kangaroo stews.
Lance, how did you know if the pump needed rebuilding? Do they get weak? When my TO 20 ran, I had times where the snow bucket full of snow would not get off the ground. The rear wheels did and they are full of calcium chloride. I would say that indicates it is still working good. The only problem I had was not being able to have a consistent neutral position on the quadrant. In one of your other videos you mentioned the rear 3 pin link could be bad. It was, so bad the holes were almost worn through and the bushing on the tractor had a good share of it broken away. During my restoration I will replace it all. It's so nice to read my factory manual and you make the video. This is so helpful, I greatly appreciate all your effort. You"re the Best! Thanks!
G Day T Johnson, The pumps get very noisy and rattle a lot and they struggle to lift. If yours can lift the rear wheels I would not think there is much wrong. I am just restoring this tractor fully as I never heard it run and have no idea what it was like but it will be like new when done.
Great video! This will be a great reference when my kit arrives in a few days. Quick question- is it possible to complete this job without removing the side panels? I was able to spread the arms and remove the pump without taking the side panels off. Curious if it’s possible to reinstall the same way.
Thanks Lance.Just watched video two assemble of the pump on a T20, can I ask has my 1953 TEF tractor got an early pump. Thanks again as I said before I keep watching and watching, I now have it after 5 times watching your first and second videos, fair play to you and to Sparex they are supporting the right person to explain the set up you have a great way of explaining things.Thanks you.I have two weeks holidays at the moment starting today, do you know what's on the list.Yes Lance a pump rebuild.Cheers.Jimmy.
Fantastic Bundy Bear. Another learning experience for me on my TEA. Question...I noticed grooves in the four little pistons. I assume there were no rings to fit unlike the big piston up top in the cover?
Thanks so much for another fantastic tutorial. I wonder if it is really necessary to change all those parts. I dismantled my pump yesterday and all the parts from inside look nice and show no wear. Can I use them after a good cleaning and just change the gaskets or must all parts changed no matter how used they are ?
Hi there, really useful stuff, thanks. I'm working on a TE-D20 that hasn't run in a long while. The bottom of the hydraulic pump area is full of hideous sludge. Could you let me know what the best stuff to use to clean everything out is please? Thanks in advance. Cheers. Jonathan
Thankyou mate, your a bloody champion. On my 49 it has a howard low range and was wondering if you have done any vids on that? and do sparex do kits for them? Cheers Mick
hola lance, soy de argentina, en neuquen... y me acabo de comprar un tractor ferguson t 20, y tiene una fuga de aceite en el hidraulico, y mirando tus videos me animare arreglarlo,. no se como conseguiria el kit. pero me las arreglare, gracias por compartir toda esta experiencia, gracias, gracias y gracias.
Hi Bundy Bears Shed . Great vid . Helped me rebuild my pump. I have a tea 20 with a heavy bucket. Since i bought it, the hydraulics wont lift the bucket but will lift the linkages. When i push the control valve in manually it kicks back really hard. Any ideas. Thanks
THanks Lance great video. I've got a 54 Ferguson TEA20,hydraulics broke,i was wondering what type of oil to use in the PTO,usedto use Hydraul 57,can't get in anymore. I've got a jug of PTO,hyraulic farm equipment oil from a local Canadian Tire store. any thoughts on what to use thats good? thanks from Steve from Cape Breton Canada
Hi, can you please give info about the two bolts for the the outtakes in the bottom aluminium base. Left rear outtake, and right front outtake. Part number for the bolts and washers would be great.
G'day Lance you are a great teacher. I bought a draft rocker bracket off Q.T.S and it come with a bush. a week earlier I had bought just the bush off you, as I had seen you remove yours, I was going to replace mine. as it turns out it was just the beginning, the draft spring plunger is bent and the bush inside the spring is broken just as yours was. who knows what else. my question is, the bush that come on its own is a very tight fit on the bracket and the tractor diff housing and will need pressing in. the bush that come with the bracket is a loose fit and even rattles a bit in the bracket, but fits snug in the tractor diff housing. which bush would you use? also I was trying to find a felt seal on your sight for were the draft spring plunger goes through and could not find one.
G Day Matt, The bush is usually a tight fit in the tractor and a loose fit in the bracket. The bracket just pivots on the bush so I would use the one that came with the bracket as when in place it sits down firm from the weight of the top link etc. I should have some felts mid next week as when I went to get one for my tractor I see we are out of them so ring the shop next week and hopefully we will have a few
Just had a look at your video, I think it's going to make my pump rebuild a whole lot easier. Only thing is that my pump differs in that it has a aluminium plate under the pressure release valve. And the control valve has a long wire with a square bar on the end. When you slide the valve in the square bar has to line up with the square hole in the pump. Will your repair kit still fit. My tractor is a 1952 ted20. Thanks nick
Hi Lance, I'm in the process of rebuilding the pump and cylinder on my 1952 TED20 due to the hydraulics dropping very quickly when I've got something on the lift. Having watched all your videos decided, as I use my tractor to work my small piece of land, ( rotavator, finger mower, topper and baler), to rebuild the pump and replace the cylinder, using the piston with the "o" ring and leather washer. When I took the old cylinder off I found the nuts very easy to undo and the cylinder broken behind each bolt as if the force of the system has pushed the cylinder foreward enough to break large chips off the back of each bolt hole. The old cylinder bore and piston were in perfect condition, (I haven't checked the ring gap), but could the fast leak down be due to a combination of leaking past the ring gap and leakage past the gasket ? I spent 9 years in Australia in the mining game as a metallurgist in NSW, QLD and WA and when I need to hear the sound of OZ I just listen to one of your videos. The sound of the cracking tin roof or birds in the background take me back to the Atherton tablelands or inland of Townsville where I did a bit of work on the tin fields in the 80's. We're back in the UK now but I miss OZ a lot. Thanks again for the memories. Dave S.
G Day James, with the cylinder being loose the oil would escape between the housing and the cylinder the early ones had a gasket and the later models had a round gasket that sat into a recess. I dont often see them broken,.
Another great video Lance, we're lucky to have you. I'm restoring a TEF myself (slowly). One thing I did want to ask you is is there a torque setting for the bolts on either side of the housing? I don't want to go too crazy on them and strip the threads in the housing!!
G day Mike, I just had a look through the manual and I cant find a reference to a tension. I would just work on around 45- 50ft/lb with a touch of Loctite and I think you should be fine.
Hi Lance , the best tutorial mate , I have a TE20 with a hydraulic problem . While in neutral with a implement of the ground it is bouncing n very slow to react when in gear , I have removed the pump and can’t see anything obvious causing the problem , can you point me in the right direction to fix this . Any help would be so good . Cheers
Hi Lance, your videos are a great resource, I am fixing a TE20 and the control valve was disconnected from the forks, they look bent as the forks are wider than the bar on the control valve. As well the control valve is bent and is stuck in the bore. How might I get it out? Also, should I bend the forks back to be the same width as the bar?
I would drop the pump out and get the valve out. That gives you a chance to have a good look at it all. Bending the forks is ok, try and get them even.
Hi Bundi, thanks heaps for the videos, they have helped me heaps thru the rebuild of my TEA20. I have not touched the hydraulics yet and wonder if I need to, they lift fine but do not power down, just gravity. Are they supposed to power down? It is my boat tractor so happy with the way it works now, but curious as to maybe future problems.
Great video and I'm glad I found it! I'm working on one that my father got a couple of years back so it's a big help. Now, working on the pump I see I got O-rings on the valve chamber instead of a gasket like you do. Any idea what model that would be on? Would it be a different pump model? I have trouble finding them new so I wonder if I could just put gaskets instead? Also, on the valves, I got some rubber ring of sort sitting on the cap that the spring for the exhaust valve sits in. If I'm any good at explaining it and you know what it is for, please tell me. I can't figure it out.
Hi Lance, great videos, I recently made inquiries to my local used and new farm equipment dealer about my problem with my TEA 20 hydraulic pump. Upon removing it was observed one valve chamber was cracked and the other a piece was broken out probably due to freezing. My guys found the pump overhaul kit to exorbitant and got me a good working used pump complete from a tractor they knew had a good pump. My problem is the complete pump appears fundamentally the same, with a newer relief valve and control valve (omitting the rear square shaft guide) but won't fit up inside the tractor housing getting hung up about 1/4 of the way in. Seems the outside of the valve chambers and the brass plugs get in the way, i can't get enough wiggle room to get the pump far enough into the tractor housing to clear the transmission output shaft housing. I've reinserted the old one several times with ease? Dunno what's the problem. From what I've seen the tractor the pump was obtained from and mine are the same serial number range? (under 20000) In addition in your pump assemble video you don't mention the pistons having any rings that go on the pistons? So currently I'm at odds as to what to do, switch the parts from the used obtained pump to mine or further source a rebuild kit for mine?
G Day Junnie, The pistons didnt have rings just a few lines machined around them for lubrication and that helped them not to need it. The MF35/ 65 and onwards did have the rings. Im not sure what your problem is as I have not had any trouble like that so far, possibly ask on a Fergy forum or facebook page. I must have been lucky. Using some older parts is ok as long as they fit ok and dont have excessive wear. You can buy an overhaul kit as well.
@@BundyBearsShed thanks lance, dunno if the used pump housing is newer, worst case scenario ill transfer either the valve chambers alone or the entire pump parts from the usee one that doesnt seem to fit to my original pump housing. Price fer a rebuild kit with vslve chambers and all related gaskets here in Ontario canada is $388+ shipping. So I'm gonna talk yo the used tractor place what they suggest, then go from there. Apparently my pump must have froze as one vslve chamber was cracked near the valve caps at the top and a piece was right out of the other one near the top. Ron
Hello, The gearbox and diff share the same oil and it takes around 30 litres. If you are in a colder climate the mono 30 or mono 40 engine oil is fine but out here in Australia I like to use a Hydratrans which is slightly heavier but has good anti foaming and lubrication qualities. It is made for the back end of tractors.
Hi Lance. I've learned a lot on how the pump works, as usual you make it easy. A quick question , on my hydraulics it goes up nicely, but wont go down . any idea what would be the problem? was working fine last time used, and today it won't lower.
Sounds like your hydraulic control valve is sticky, they did that from time to time on the early pumps and later on they put a bracket on to juggle the valve to stop that happening.
Thanks for the video. Just put mine all back together but no oil is going to the lift cylinder. Not sure what's wrong. Any ideas why a fresh rebuilt pump would not be pumping oil to the top cylinder?
@@BundyBearsShed I put a new relief valve in if that is what you mean. I'm in the U.S. not sure what you mean by "fit" the relief valve. The only thing I didn't do that you did was put oil on the parts as you assembled the pump. I assembled the pump dry. I took the pump back out and disassembled it. I'm going to double check the valves and springs oil them and put it back together and try it again
Im doing a repair on my TED20, It was working fine till I got the s/f plow stuck on a rock. Eventually got it out but hydraulics just flopped about freely. Pulled it all out ,every thing still moves freely. Pump turns , lifter arms plunger all free. All I found of the control vavle is the cross piece that sits between the forks. Nothing else. I have sieved the oil for remains, She's gone brother. There was a piece of square rod with a piece of straight wire [ like a bicycle spoke] coming out the centre of it floating around on the bottom of the pump sump. I have no idea where it lives or came from.. Do I recon the pump that was working or just the lifting cylinder which used to bob up and down slightly when you were holding an implement up. Any ideas plz.
It looks like I have the same pump as you, where the control valve goes into the pump, is there meant to be a rod or something so it draws the oil to the top cylinder? Cheers love you’re videos
Hi mate i just got a tea20 just wanting a little help if you can. I'm trying to find out its age so i can order parts. Also the draft control wont work properly can you help me please
Hi Lance very helpful videos. I have a Tef20 1954 .when I took the valve chamber plate off there was 2 "O" rings & no gasket on it...would I get away with the gasket you used& no "O" rings or will I have to use new "O" rings & no gaskets?? Also when I removed the piston cylinder there was no gasket just a "O" ring...can I use a gasket like you used in one of your videos & no "O" ring?? Any of the gasket repair sets for sale on line seem to have no "O" rings in it??Any info would b appricated Confused Karl 🤣
Hi again Lance. Well as I emailed you before regarding my dilemma with my TEA 20 hydraulic pump. I had purchased a complete used one from a local salvage yard from an apparent same vintage tractor namely a Ferguson. Well found when I went to install it it wouldn't fit no matter what I did. even swapped over the valve chambers to my pump still no go. Apparently even with some (maybe not all) replacement valve chambers it's indicated that some grinding of the pump housing is may be required to fit? So right now i dunno where this is whether it's in the pump pump housing on the tractor or the pump itself and exactly where, could be on the valve chamber casting or the pump itself. In any event i still have the salvage pump, but had the bright idea to attempt a repair of my original one which worked sorta well. Both valve chambers had damage to them presumably due to condensation/water in the hydraulic oil causing it to freeze and break the casting. One valve chamber think the left side a large piece around the top of the valve chamber had been broken and the right side only a little piece on one chamber. So during another mission while at a local auto parts store I noticed JB Weld, so I thought Hmmm, maybe it might work. So when I had the time I cleaned the broken pieces blew dry and attempted a repair. I clamped the larger damaged piece in a vise for 24-48 hours and the other piece in a hand clamp. I reassembled and installed the pump put oil in and voila it worked, sadly only once the arms went up and I let it down and they didn't come up again. So back to disassembly once again, so far I've drained the oil in an attempt to see what went wrong. From what I can see the larger piece held quite nicely but the smaller piece (which I had my doubts about mating surface integrity) failed and popped out. So I'll have to remove pump and try again this time using the vise if possible as I only had one vise to use for the larger piece, guess I should have done one piece at a time, lol. I think I can heat the parts with acetylene torch to melt the JB Weld off and try again as JB Weld is only good for something like 500 degrees? If I had to to find out where the salvage pump actually sticks or binds when installing I'd had to remove the top cover and look down from there then I could see where to make alterations, that's only if i can't get this repair option to work. At least I know the pump will work once i get the repair or the salvage pump in. I guess as you said you've been lucky with repairs not encountering what I'm encountering. Regarding a complete overhaul kit, I think its around $400-$500 here plus taxes and comes with new valve chambers but I think sparex indicates that this modification of grinding the pump housing is in their description or instructions when ordering? This is why I opted for a salvage pump as salvage dealer indicated his price to me was around $600, and still doesn't fit. So we'll continue my attempts, and let you know. Cheers
Boy you are having a bad run, I dont think the JB would be a long term repair I have still not had the grinding problem so Im wondering is it a problem in a particular area.
@@BundyBearsShed Well all one has to do is google for valve chambers online and most I've seen indicate some grinding of pump housing may be required to install but it's not mentioned exactly where. It's all good however I ended up as I said had to remove top cover to see exactly where it was hanging up/ gettin stuck when trying to install pump. System works as it should basically now. Could have saved myself a lot of time n aggravation by doing this in the first place to see what the problems was in installing the complete salvaged pump or my pump with swapped valve chambers from salvaged pump. All good now works as it should, just have to fine tune the lever settings to keep hydraulic arms steady in hold position.
Do ya know if and where one might if possible be able to plum a front end loader if desired or even possible on this tractor. i saw an actual Ferguson loader on a wrecked tractor but looked pretty awkward how it was designed. It see,med to operate in conjunction with the 3pt hitch arms and a fulcrum point under the tractor at the rear axle. Quite clunky and weird looking but probably worked?
Hi Lance - is there much variation in pumps - my baseplate was cracked so a mate in the orkneys kindly sent me a replacement baseplate with pump chasis- only problem is the cylinders/pistons are too big to get in the slot ( coant get them in - about 1cm too wide) so I hope he is gonna send the old ones down, also the control valve has a guide in my old one which isnt on your example or the one from the Orkney islands! Whats going on? Do i have a rogue tractor? Dates dont seem to match the engine numbers and tractor frame number - I thought it was a TED20 but im not so sure now as number on tractor predates TVO- confused! Any ideas???? Cheers Guy
G Day Guy, They did change the pumps quite a bit over the run of the TE20. I wasnt aware of a piston size change but hopefully you could use the old ones. The valve chambers changed from gasket to O ring seal later in the run. Im not sure what has gone on with yours.
G Day Ray, i think your shaft is twisted from possibly hitting something at some stage. They can be very difficult to get out and we have even had to remove the top and try to cut the shaft.
Lance - Love your videos - can you help with a nightmare!? I tried to remove the PTO drive which was stuck fast and I mean really stuck. I pulled with every puller under the sun and eventually there was a crack and the whole bottom plate of the hydraulic pump cracked in three places and all the remaining oil oil dropped out. So I now have the PTO still stuck and the oil pump is toast but I cant get it out either - HELP.
G day Chris, what has happened is that at some time in its life the pto shaft has got twisted from hitting something and they twist in front of the hydraulic pump. I have had to split the tractor behind the gearbox and cut them out and others have been able to do it from the top but I have not done that. You will need a new pump and pto shaft. No good news I'm afraid.
@@BundyBearsShed Thanks from the UK - I kind of knew/feared that - Splitting it next week and I have the spare - should have fitted an over run on the PTO! Oh well at least we beat the all blacks at rugby.
Hello Lance. I yesterday installed new rebuild pump and had problems to spread the fork over the control valve, had no room with my hands, some how I get them on but have feeling that not sitting properly on cause after I screw the Aluminum bracket the lower part is not quiet seethed, but it works, is that a problem?
We started tractor an everything works fine, Thanks for helpful videos. there was 2 "experts" from tractor service before me and they didn't get far then I came and don everything for the first time and don :)
Hello again Lance.My Ferguson tea 20 from 1951. The arm that crosses the control valve, Can you buy it from Sparex that you use. And if you can do know the spare part number. Regards Carsten
G Day Carsten, Sparex are not doing them any more but Bareco do and Quality Tractor Parts do it with a new valve. We sel them on our web site but you would need to tell my staff you were talking to me and get a freight quote. www.queenslandtractorspares.com.au/Store/tabid/91/ProdID/3102/Default.aspx
Potrebna mi je ova ploca sto ide na pumpu,nova ili polovna,kod mene je ispucala,molim vas za pomoc,kod mene u Sbiji i Crnoj Gori to nema nigdje,unaped hvala
Hi Lance ,Happy New Year, got a question for you, i fixed the hydraulics ,but the tractor won,t stay running, starts up runs for a few minutes then dies out. if I cover the air filter it will stay running, seems to be starved of gas if I let it sit a minute it will start again and run for a few seconds. any thoughts .thanks Steve
Yes but it uses the control valve to supply the oil so you would need to chain the arms down so the pump would not cancel out but they have very little flow.
G day it's G T from a long long long a way i had J C B and u help me fix it 3year ago is sold now and I bought 3 and half TE20 TVO one engine sized so I want to put 4cyl.Perkins 248 in it is it a hard job.other is ford Ferguson engine gearbox and back alex all the way from slemish mountain Ballymena North Ireland .I was over in may2018 and guess what my coussen had no time to let me see u r shop but I n back and I c u r shop. Keep her Lit Boyo
