Same happened to me with the Sony A7IV and a Sigma 24-70 F2.8 ART Lens. I’m like almost 4K in camera equipment and what the hell is this banding. I thought the camera was broken. Lol
In the U.S. the power grid is 60 Hz (On/Off 60 times per second) 1/60 shutter speed fixes this problem or if your camera has variable shutter you can run 1/60 and/or 1/119.9 and it gets rid of the banding. Think in multiples of 60. 🤙🏻 We recently shot some videos for a client inside of a car painting booth with fluorescent bulbs EVERYWHERE. Not only do they flicker like mad but, they cast a green hue. We fixed all the problems by punching two Amaran 200D at the ceiling to get some clean light in there and then ran both Sony FX cameras at shutter 1/60. The camera filming in 59.94 fps we ran it at 1/119.9 shutter speed and that worked great. Also, in Davinci Resolve there is a tool in the effects panel which De flickers footage if you ever have flickering footage. Happy shooting! 🤙🏻😎
@@动漫区漫哥 In Hollywood they spent millions of budget on light technicians to get it all right, so they can stick to the 180 rule. If you are shooting events, the lighting is aimed at providing an experience to visitors, not with a focus on the photo- or videographer, meaning we have to get creative and play with the toolset we have at hand that is not costing us a fortune, nor settles us up with the need of putting bulky lights in the way of the guests and especially the bride and groom, for capturing non-forced, natural shots.
I'm new to photography and video and I was worried that my camera wasn't working properly.. this resolved my issue perfectly.. lighting is so important. Thank you Jordan.
I'm a photographer but I used to be a nuclear engineer and work on power plants so we were trained in electrical systems. So I have an interesting blend of knowledge on how electronics interact with shutter speed. If the lights flicker at 1/60 Hz and you shoot 1/50 SS you'll get banding because each scan of your sensor scans a full cycle of the lights plus another 20% of your sensor will scan a second light cycle creating a band by about 1 stop brighter (if that's the only light) that is as big as 20% of your screen. The more lights that are in sync with your camera the less pronounced the band will be. Most likely the circuitry wasn't made for US electrical systems that operate at 60Hz. If you're in Europe 50Hz is more common but really bad circuitry has variable frequencies and it may be that no shutter speed syncs with it perfectly. So there are times when 1/60 or 1/120 will give you less banding than 1/50. If the lights cycle at 60Hz. So you might consider using 30fps because it gives you the 180 degree rule and syncs better with US electronics. Another way is you could use a global shutter or 1/30 shutter speed.
omg i thought my phone camera was broken, but it was just my night lamp wtf, first setting everything is fine but second setting that is less bright of the lamp this started happening on my phone camera rapidly
some science behind it.. that may help you Alternating Current or your AC,, is a big thing to take into account. Alternating current (anythign that plugs into the wall) i America is 60hz, in the UK its 50hz,. Battery powered lighting, which runs off Direct Current DC, doesnt alternate as its continuous direct light source. so this is why you wont get the bars when using certain lights you bring with you. you want your hz of your camera to match the AC of whever light source you are using. you do this by changing the hz mode. from PAL TO NTSC or vice versa. Camera HZ PAL = 50hz NTSC = 60hz UK AC = 50hz America AC = 60 hz So if in america, try NTSC (60hz) with a shutter speed that multiples by 60, aswell as a the frame rate. eg, Shutter speed, 30/60/120 etc if anywhere else like EUROPE or UK, Set to Pal (50hz) and also set shutter speed and frame rate to a multiple of 50. eg. 25/50/100 etc
Here’s my issue with switching between NTSC and PAL, at least in my setup. Whenever I switch from NTSC to PAL, it formats all video currently on my SD card - at least thats what happens on my Sony A7iii. Even if I remove my SD card, switch from NTSC to PAL, then reinsert the card, it’ll make me reformat it. In the U.S, I use NTSC for the entire wedding day. For those few shots that are under PAL-compatible lighting, I would need to use brand new memory cards. That’s not super practical during the wedding day. I suppose a fix that I excluded in my video was using brand new memory cards that you only shoot PAL for that particular shoot. Or using a second camera that only shoots PAL for that shoot. Switching between the two on the same memory cards isn’t doable in my setup. But it sounds like other cameras may have the capability to switch between the two without formatting. Definitely could’ve included that aspect of this in the video, so appreciate you explaining this!
@@JordanNelson no yeah i compltely understand where your coming from, ive pretty much just stuck to 1 now though! after a bit more use in differnt lighting conditions, ive found, that just sticking to the multiple rule, whilst in reference to whatever your Hz your areas Alternating Current, it should help a lot.
Yeah - it's a weird concept if the shutter speed is longer than the frame rate. I think for many types of shooting - in particular live music videos in low light, 24fps and 1/25th shutter speed works well. With two mirrorless cameras I like to select an aperture that is the widest on the slowest lens and use it on both cameras. So f6.3, 24fps, 1/25th second - then, in manual mode, simply find the ISO results in the exposure you want as you view it through the electronic viewfinder.
Apparently it’s caused by the rolling shutter in the camera as it updates the image of each frame from top to bottom. That’s why you get a jello effect when you pan quickly from left to right. Cameras which use a global shutter do not have this side-effect.
Thank you for this video. I was pretty damn scared, because I am starting to learn how to use cameras properly, and I hadn't had these issues until recently. Thought I broke the camera
Love this! I have my very first wedding this November and I am SO nervous but SO excited. Just bought myself a Canon 5D Mark IV and a 24-70, but Ive heard I should definitely rent another camera... any tips on a first wedding would be amazing! (shots to look out for, gear, communication, what to bring, anything at all!!)
You got this!! I have a whole playlist of wedding filmmaking tutorials you can check out and see what sparks your interest! ru-vid.com/group/PLFFMBJfSwsOynFQX1XEDx72Cl7Z-sAmx6 I also created an interactive PDF guide titled "The Beginner's Guide to Wedding Filmmaking" that I hope will be helpful! www.jordannelsonproductions.com/wedding-filmmaking-guide/the-beginners-guide-to-wedding-filmmaking
Awesome video man. Just ran into this problem this past weekend shooting a wedding. Have you had any problems come up shooting at 24fps below 1/50 shutter speed? (Ex. 1/40, 1/30, 1/25)?
I just bought a used g7x Mark II and had a problem with this in my house. I thought the camera was faulty. Thanks for the video! Also, it only happens in the kitchen. No matter what I do. Lights on or off, it still happens in that room only. As soon as I exit that room, it's fine. Wierd, lol.
some science behind it.. that may help you Alternating Current or your AC,, is a big thing to take into account. Alternating current (anythign that plugs into the wall) i America is 60hz, in the UK its 50hz,. Battery powered lighting, which runs off Direct Current DC, doesnt alternate as its continuous direct light source. so this is why you wont get the bars when using certain lights you bring with you. you want your hz of your camera to match the AC of whever light source you are using. you do this by changing the hz mode. from PAL TO NTSC or vice versa. Camera HZ PAL = 50hz NTSC = 60hz UK AC = 50hz America AC = 60 hz So if in america, try NTSC (60hz) with a shutter speed that multiples by 60, aswell as a the frame rate. eg, Shutter speed, 30/60/120 etc if anywhere else like EUROPE or UK, Set to Pal (50hz) and also set shutter speed and frame rate to a multiple of 50. eg. 25/50/100 etc
good test thank you,,,I just encountered this problem while making New Years Eve vid at 1/50th SS ,,,, guess should of watched this first :) liked,,thx again
But what about that rule who says your shutter speed should be double than your fps. I always follow this rule & got some banding in dark light situations. I was shooting on 30 fps with 1/60th of shutter speed.
That's exactly the type of scenario I was testing for in this video - because ideally you would have your own lighting setup to avoid breaking that shutter speed rule. However, the test here was to determine how much I could break that shutter speed rule without noticeably downgrading the quality of the video.
At 1/50 I could barely tell on my monitor. Depending on where in the reception hall I was point my camera, it was more or less noticeable. Was holding out hope that it wouldn’t look too bad. Wasn’t terrible, but this alternative seems better to me!
just had this problem today & it was hard to see on the camera screen, like you would really need to look carefully, maybe aim the camera at a wall or something
The Panosonic GH5 has a great feature called syncro scan which lets you adjust the shutter speed in small amounts- very helpful for these types of issues!
I'm trying out 1000 FPS (and 1/1000s I guess..?), so I have to look for another video :-). Thanks anyway. Good video. Good explanations and presentation.
1/60 doesn’t work either (that was one of the tests at the very beginning of the video)- no matter what shutter speed I use in NTSC at or faster than 1/50, banding shows up under certain types of lighting. I have heard folks say to switch to PAL instead of using NTSC. But here’s my issue with that, at least in my setup. Whenever I switch from NTSC to PAL, it formats all video currently on my SD card - at least thats what happens on my Sony A7iii. Even if I remove my SD card, switch from NTSC to PAL, then reinsert the card, it’ll make me reformat it. In the U.S, I use NTSC for the entire wedding day. For those few shots that are under PAL-compatible lighting, I would need to use brand new memory cards. That’s not super practical during the wedding day. I suppose a fix that I excluded in my video was using brand new memory cards that you only shoot PAL for that particular shoot. Or using a second camera that only shoots PAL for that shoot. Switching between the two on the same memory cards isn’t doable in my setup. But it sounds like other cameras may have the capability to switch between the two without formatting.
it is normal that ive never a waving horizontal banding before, whatever the type of light and the shutter speed and it's appear just like that ? It is my sensor broken ?
some science behind it.. that may help you Alternating Current or your AC,, is a big thing to take into account. Alternating current (anythign that plugs into the wall) i America is 60hz, in the UK its 50hz,. Battery powered lighting, which runs off Direct Current DC, doesnt alternate as its continuous direct light source. so this is why you wont get the bars when using certain lights you bring with you. you want your hz of your camera to match the AC of whever light source you are using. you do this by changing the hz mode. from PAL TO NTSC or vice versa. Camera HZ PAL = 50hz NTSC = 60hz UK AC = 50hz America AC = 60 hz So if in america, try NTSC (60hz) with a shutter speed that multiples by 60, aswell as a the frame rate. eg, Shutter speed, 30/60/120 etc if anywhere else like EUROPE or UK, Set to Pal (50hz) and also set shutter speed and frame rate to a multiple of 50. eg. 25/50/100 etc
One question. If I use the Ar7 ii with a lightning trigger (for lightning photography) do you thing that I will get banding? I'm thinking about using f10 exp 1/10 iso 100. With the efcs (because it has the lowest shutter lag).
Hi.... God and informative video... But 180 degree shutter rule??? You could call it the 'times two' shutter rule... The 180 degree rule is a rule used to position the camera one one side of (180 degree) the scenes line of action... Lije in football or tennis. If you move the camera to the other side of the action line (goal to goal) your favorit team suddenly score a goal in their own end...
Haha yeah I agree the ”times two” rule would be a simpler, more intuitive name for it! But the “180 degree shutter rule” is the industry standard naming convention for it - here’s a good explanation: www.polarprofilters.com/blogs/polarpro/how-shutter-speed-affects-video And yes there’s also that 180 degree rule as you explained as well. Just two different concepts with similar names.
@@JordanNelson Hi Jordan... No it's No 'industri standard' name for it. It's just youtubers misinterpretation of something they obviously know nothing about, multiplying factor n on YT and social media. Just because a few people can't tell an eagle from a sparrow and misuses ones name for the other, doesn't make the sparrow an eagle 😉🤪... No matter how many picks up the misunderstanding.... 😁🤠
@@JordanNelson some science behind it.. that may help you Alternating Current or your AC,, is a big thing to take into account. Alternating current (anythign that plugs into the wall) i America is 60hz, in the UK its 50hz,. Battery powered lighting, which runs off Direct Current DC, doesnt alternate as its continuous direct light source. so this is why you wont get the bars when using certain lights you bring with you. you want your hz of your camera to match the AC of whever light source you are using. you do this by changing the hz mode. from PAL TO NTSC or vice versa. Camera HZ PAL = 50hz NTSC = 60hz UK AC = 50hz America AC = 60 hz So if in america, try NTSC (60hz) with a shutter speed that multiples by 60, aswell as a the frame rate. eg, Shutter speed, 30/60/120 etc if anywhere else like EUROPE or UK, Set to Pal (50hz) and also set shutter speed and frame rate to a multiple of 50. eg. 25/50/100 etc
That's largely due to the AC electric frequency....for Europe the Electric power is at 50Hz while in US it's 60Hz. So, if you use 1/50 shutter speed in Europe (or any other PAL region) , and 1/60 in US (NTSC region) the banding disappears.
I don’t think it’s necessarily specific to the Sony a7iii or Tamron lens. I think a lot of it just has to do with the type of lighting you’re shooting under.
dude its not the right way! what u explain as a solution is like removing the problem! The solution is that u have to change video system from NTSC to PAL and your frame rate from 24 or 30 to 25!! thats it. and u can also set ur shutter speed to 50 or even more without any flicker!
Here’s my issue with that, at least in my setup. Whenever I switch from NTSC to PAL, it formats all video currently on my SD card - at least thats what happens on my Sony A7iii. Even if I remove my SD card, switch from NTSC to PAL, then reinsert the card, it’ll make me reformat it. In the U.S, I use NTSC for the entire wedding day. For those few shots that are under PAL-compatible lighting, I would need to use brand new memory cards. That’s not super practical during the wedding day. I suppose a fix that I excluded in my video was using brand new memory cards that you only shoot PAL for that particular shoot. Or using a second camera that only shoots PAL for that shoot. Switching between the two on the same memory cards isn’t doable in my setup. But it sounds like other cameras may have the capability to switch between the two without formatting. Definitely could’ve included that aspect of this in the video, so appreciate you bringing this up!
