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How to belay the leader with a REVERSO - Belaying techniques 

Petzl Sport
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The REVERSO is a belay/rappel device that uses a standardized series of movements associated with most tube-type belay devices. This video therefore shows a belay technique common to all Petzl devices of this kind (VERSO, REVERSINO and UNIREVERSO).
More info on www.petzl.com/belaying

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5 авг 2024

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Комментарии : 52   
@Cynocehali
@Cynocehali 5 лет назад
Dangerous Dan is cool, who cares if he cant catch, his got swag.
@Neerav3984
@Neerav3984 4 года назад
Hi Petzl When I started climbing in 2001 I learned to lower down using the1st technique shown in the video (swapping/alternating hands placing one hand below the other) until one day when I was lowering my friend using the1st technique I accidentally lost control of the brake end of the rope completely. Luckily I reacted very fast and caught the brake end of the rope and my hand got pulled in the belay device and got pinched, my friend who I was belaying stopped several feet off the ground without a scratch. Since then I changed to the 2nd technique which I think is much better way of lowering someone as it reduces the potential for error. I think the 1st technique should not be taught to anyone and would like to know your views on it. PS. The above incident didn't happen in 2001 when I was new to climbing it happened towards the end of 2005 and I had belayed hundreds of times before using the 1st technique (swapping/alternating hands placing one hand below the other).
@nathanwilson3185
@nathanwilson3185 Год назад
This is my favorite atc style device. I cross brands like crazy but for the important pieces petzel can’t be beat. It belays so much smoother than most others and the finish and machining is immaculate.
@VangelisStavroulakis
@VangelisStavroulakis 10 лет назад
Very good to show...
@CallMeJazz
@CallMeJazz 5 лет назад
Great video...thank you.
@freerideactivity
@freerideactivity Год назад
Hi petzl just to let you know that I have used a 6mm used rope with the reverso and it works 👌🏻
@afonsoluizdeoliveira8747
@afonsoluizdeoliveira8747 2 года назад
EXCELENTE!!!!
@EvgenySubbotsky
@EvgenySubbotsky 10 лет назад
What is the sountrack at the end of a video?
@PetzlSportVideos
@PetzlSportVideos 10 лет назад
Hello The soundtrack is from Zikali Best regards
@Mihaynd
@Mihaynd 7 лет назад
Why can you not use the locker SL carabiner with the reverso?
@jasonlovi8745
@jasonlovi8745 4 года назад
The odd shape hinders braking probably
@Maxiclimbing1977
@Maxiclimbing1977 7 месяцев назад
There is one thing that doesn't seem right to me about the video. In all Petzl climbing manuals they advise the use of gloves when belaying a leader, but in this video I have not seen a single glove during the belay examples, not even in the examples that show how to do it. does well. It would be nice if Petzl promoted safety in the right way. It's just an appreciation. All the best.
@DrPastah
@DrPastah 5 лет назад
Is a reverso an ATC?
@codingboy42
@codingboy42 3 года назад
no, a reverso is a tuber as an atc is one. but a reverso is not an atc.
@MisterFusion113
@MisterFusion113 8 лет назад
3:28 Maybe I'm shallow but if someone dressed like that offered me a catch I'd walk away slowly.
@tobiasbrunner4720
@tobiasbrunner4720 6 лет назад
That's the whole point! Search for "worlds worst belayer".
@hoppy1970
@hoppy1970 9 лет назад
What is she saying at 0:53 ?
@MrHassancehef
@MrHassancehef 9 лет назад
hoppy1970 "do not use a carabiner as the locker sl"
@hoppy1970
@hoppy1970 9 лет назад
MrHassancehef Thanks. I understand now. This particular karabiner is unsuitable for belaying with the Reverso device. I just bought a DMM Pivot anyway :)
@adventureswithfrodo2721
@adventureswithfrodo2721 7 лет назад
you need to specify which model you are using.
@alexsakon
@alexsakon 2 года назад
Nina is cute ❤️
@DingoAteMeBaby
@DingoAteMeBaby 2 года назад
what kind of accent is that
@augustinechao1685
@augustinechao1685 2 года назад
3:56
@arkadymagomedov1700
@arkadymagomedov1700 4 года назад
They are not using gloves.
@miguelserra2722
@miguelserra2722 3 года назад
Where I climb almost nobody uses gloves... They are not necessary if you belay correctly.
@SimonAndrews1337
@SimonAndrews1337 4 года назад
Damn, when did it become acceptable to teach beginners to slide their hand along brake rope? For my 30+ years climbing the golden rule has been, one hand tight one the brake strand at all times. It's easy to teach and leaves no room for an inattentive moment causing the acceleration to exceed what the person can hold.
@rban123
@rban123 2 года назад
you need to release pressure on the break hand when giving slack, there's no way around it.
@dustinnance6817
@dustinnance6817 Год назад
@@rban123 you can reverse pbus it, but you’ll short rope your climber, which could be arguably more dangerous than the quarter second of not as firm grip on the rope.
@NikySportsPromotion
@NikySportsPromotion 10 лет назад
back clipped @7:16
@Neerav3984
@Neerav3984 4 года назад
Good eyes
@codingboy42
@codingboy42 3 года назад
never would i have seen this
@hjprochazka
@hjprochazka 8 лет назад
3:16 Never put both hands above belay device 4:11 Puts both hands above belay device Wut?
@daisyruin
@daisyruin 8 лет назад
+hjprochazka I noticed that when watching the video as well. If it was in 3d I think we'd see that it's more beside than above. If you make the motions standing you'll notice your shoulder is in a much different position if you try to grab the rope above the belay device than if you are off to the side passing loops of the brake line into the arrester.
@miguelserra2722
@miguelserra2722 3 года назад
I think what they mean is to not stay with both hands above the belay all the time. You can pass through that position momentarily for taking rope, but being conscious that you are not breaking at all. In fact, if you don't put your breaking hand above the belay device it's very hard to take rope.
@steventhaw7711
@steventhaw7711 9 лет назад
Honey, the first rule is SAFETY! including knowing how to use the belay device correctly!
@PetzlSportVideos
@PetzlSportVideos 9 лет назад
Steven Thaw Hi Steven, We have noticed your discontent in your comments on our video. Could you please contact us at technicalquestions@petzl.com to discuss and understand your comments? Best regards, Petzl
@finnmarkussen9958
@finnmarkussen9958 8 лет назад
+Steven Thaw Hey! thank you for all your hilarious comments. We all had so much fun reading them, laughing our asses off!.. keep it up!
@steventhaw7711
@steventhaw7711 9 лет назад
At minute 4:17 the belayer has a faulty stance. One foot should be forward to help absorb the lead climber's fall. Otherwise, the belay will be pulled off their feet into the wall.
@TheBlackstealth
@TheBlackstealth 9 лет назад
Steven Thaw Or a dynamic belay like at 5:22.
@steventhaw7711
@steventhaw7711 9 лет назад
Starting at minute 6:59 the belayer continually takes her brake hand OFF the rope! Help! Petzl better retape this video!
@MrHassancehef
@MrHassancehef 9 лет назад
Steven Thaw this is me again, put the video at slow speed, and you will see she hold rope whole time....
@piotrkowalski4960
@piotrkowalski4960 7 лет назад
You are so preety girl , whish you where here........... > jack (Poland)
@flatronwerty
@flatronwerty 6 лет назад
piotr kowalski pervert 😂
@steventhaw7711
@steventhaw7711 9 лет назад
At minute 2:36 the rope is in the WRONG slot of the reverso! The rope should be in the slot nearest the spine of the carabiner! Negligence on your part!
@UpnorthHere
@UpnorthHere 9 лет назад
Steven Thaw Are you sure? The animated installation graphic at 1:29 shows them using the slot nearest the gate.
@MrHassancehef
@MrHassancehef 9 лет назад
Steven Thaw dude, if you use always the same side of the belay plate, during rappel is going to provide less friction etc you double lifetime of the belay plate, if you alternate of slot....
@Svish_
@Svish_ 7 лет назад
Just took a belaying course (new climber) and was taught that which slot you use doesn't matter, and it really shouldn't. I mean, in certain cases you're using both, so one really shouldn't be better than the other...
@adventureswithfrodo2721
@adventureswithfrodo2721 7 лет назад
the dynamic belay is dangerous and stupid.
@dustinnance6817
@dustinnance6817 Год назад
So are unnecessarily hard falls.
@steventhaw7711
@steventhaw7711 9 лет назад
Again, at minute 4:07 the rope is loading the gate! The rope should be loading the SPINE of the carabiner!
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