6:06 - the point is - you aren't cleaning the chain - all you're doing here is wiping the outside of the link plates. Nothing else. The only crucial parts are the contact the roller has on it's pivot pin - which with an O-Ring chain you can't influence - and the contact the outside of the roller has with the sprocket. That's all there is to a chain. Unless your getting in between the links you achieve nothing - apart from visuals.
I use oil but have recently changed how I apply it. I now use a bottle designed to apply glue to wood. The bottle have bristles on the top to spread the glue on the wood. I put oil in the bottle and 'brush' a film of oil onto the chain. It's an easy and fast way to get good coverage.
@@nigelosgood4922 Rode many dirt bikes growing up and anytime I would put oil on the chain it flung up and made the whole bike and rim totally filthy, was so pissed, and it never stops coming off you could clean the bike 5 times and would still spray off so I stopped lubricating it all together. Might try the 80w90 in "extremely" low doses
Same here I use a small pastry brush dipped in ep 80 clean off with gt85 spin wheel on paddock stand before each ride no stretch on my790 in 6000 miles totally converted 👍🏻
Hypoid EP90 gear oil for me and over winter or when wet, 10% lithium grease mixed with it in a jar and applied with a brush. To clean, I use the same brush and paraffin.😁
75w-90 gear oil is all I use. I apply it after a ride (chain is still warm), put a small piece of blue painter's tape over key slot, park it in the garage. The tape over key slot reminds me to wipe off the chain when I roll the bike out for my next ride.
I don’t ride a motorcycle with chain anymore, but my first motorcycle with chain had recommendation in the manual to use just engine oil to lubricate a chain. Understandable, easy and no BS. 🙂
@@John_Neves Hey, John! No problem! It’s a very useful tip. 👍🏻 In my honest opinion, all this purpose made chain lubricants business is a one big scam. And my bike is not shaft driven, it’s a Harley Road King, man. 🙂 Ride safe! 👊🏻
I have been riding an MZ250 since I bought it in 1984. Following the manual, I applied grease to the (non O ring chain) every 2500km. I replaced the first chain at 128,000km. At 142,000km the second chain looks good. Still on original sprockets.
I will speak _exclusively_ from personal experience. I have been riding since 1985, and obtained my full bike licence in 1988. I have riden bikes ranging fom RD125's and GT250 X7's, through RG500 fours, Kawasaki GPZ 600, early GSX-R 750's and more recently Triumph 955i's and Twins. Since 1990, when I installed my first Scottoiler on a ZXR750, I have _never_ replaced _any_ chain or sprocket on _any_ of my bikes. Every bike since then has been fitted with an automatic oiler. In 70k miles on the Daytona (a 150bhp bike) I adjusted the chain 3 times. When I traded that in for a Thruxton 900 (just 69bhp, but Ducati style torque) the dealer told me "thanks for having recently changed the chain and sprockets!", "I replied your welcome" although they were in fact the originals. I transfered my Scottoiler from the old bike to the new bike and the Thruxton now has 60k miles and the chain will _easily_ go another 120k. I have converted friends from spray to oil...its really easy because the _real_ enemy of our chains is in fact heat. Heat expands the chain, allows the internal grease to bypass the O-Rings and wears the sprockets like "shark fins" because the side-plates lengthen when hot, and the contact area creeps up the tooth. Sticky chain lube just converts into a grinding paste, thanks to sand, and road dust sticking to it, and producing excessive heat. So whats the easiest way of converting a friend from sprays? Ride 100 miles together then ask them to check the chain temperature of their bike compared to your's. My chains are relatively cold, a little above ambient temperatures. Their's is uncomfortable to touch for more than a few seconds. One friend went 22k on his Tiger 1050 before requiring a new drive kit, when changed he vowed never to use spray lubricants again, having read that a completely dry chain would actually last longer. That, second chain, lasted 21k - and was _never_ lubricated from the moment it was fitted. Same heat you see. My advice - if you intend to do at least 20k on your "new" bike (or new chain), get a Scottoiler - they are cheaper than a chain & sprocket kit, easier to install, and will give you a guaranteed ROI.
@patrickoneil6817 They come with a half litre of their own brand oil. In the past I have used ATF and even _used (old)_ engine oil with no negative effects - just adjust for the delivery rate. The oil is _really_ for cleaning and rust-proofing, not _actual_ lubrication.
Yes mate, oil preferably 80 grade gear oil, applied with a brush held against either side of the rear sprocket as the wheel is spun. Fixing a problem created by the manufacturer in response to an idiotic fashion. The cure - a fully enclosed chaincase. Look at 1970's MZ and Jawa. Even the Honda step throughs.
I use a toothbrush and grease to keep the O-rings lubed. A lot less friction compared to chain wax. Just changed my V Strom 650 chain and sprockets at 35,000 miles. Chain was just starting to show couple links that were getting stiff. Rear sprocket looked almost new. Front sprocket had remarkable longevity showing minimal wear. Only adjusted chain at 10k intervals when replacing tire. Ride in Pennsylvania
he is also using a mixture of 90% grease and 10% oil....he is just not saying it in this video but in another.....i tryed the heavy duty oil...it didnt hold on to the chain....and now i see he is using 90% grease....🤬😡🤬
I stopped using chain lub cans in my moto a couple of years ago... Exactly as you described. I found in the owners manual that what they recommend is heavy dutty oil. In my case, I use car transmission oil (manual gearboxes use a thicker oil, 70w, I believe). It lubricates quite good, it is easy to clean and costs a fraction of a can of spray lube (As I recall I payed 7€ for half a liter of that stuff, and it lasts a LOT!), as you mentioned. Will never revert to sprays again.
Hay Mate Paul from Australia, a friend of mine users engine oil mixed with graphite power - helps the oil stick . Yes Ryan from Forthnine said engine was one ☝️ of the best lubricants when tested against all others . When I travel I use a Motul chain paste ( it’s like a tooth paste tube but larger . ) it’s fantastic and compact and will fit under most seats . Also you don’t have to worry about it leaking . I reckon I will start using my old 90/130 weight transmission oil - thinker so will stay on better Good 👍 Vid .
Me too, you can also buy ET (extra tacky) chain saw chain oil, cheap as chips, 1/2 litre bottle will last the life of any chain, just give it a quick clean with WD40 or GT85, dry it off with clean rags, then drip on ya lube, aerosol chain lube is mostly over priced crap.
Jar with heavy weight gear oil and a small 1” wide paint brush. Lay on the oil thick while brushing the chain, then a good wipe down takes all the dirt and leaves very little oil to fling off while leaving a nice protective layer of lube on everything. Simple, cheap, fast.
THATS A GREAT IDEA ! IVE BEEN USING A CAN PUMP OILER W GEAR OIL BUT CAN'T GET GOOD COVERAGE CUZ EVERY PUMP JUST GOES ALL OVER MISSING SEVERAL LINKS AND OVER OILING SEVERAL MORE JUST MAKING A HUGE MESS BUT A JAR AND PAINT BRUSH SOUNDS LIKE IT WOULD WORK GREAT THAT WILL BE MY NEXT TRY FOR SURE ! THANKS !!
@@davidmarberry5565 you can always apply the oil to the brush with the can and then brush the chain. This way you avoid all the settled dirt that you get in the jar. I have started doing his where I just put a little oil from the pointy spout of the gear oil bottle onto the brush and use the jar to just have a place to set the oily brush.
I mostly agree with you. My one and only issue with your method is how you clean the chain. Don't use a pressure cleaner, because they are strong enough to push water past the O-rings and mix with the lubricant inside the rollers.
I’ve always used Mobil1 synthetic from my oil changes just leave upside down the ‘empty’ bottles and you get plenty to fill a bottle with an applicator tube, works great and it’s free really.
If you use gear oil, the chain will fling the oil to your tires. However, carefully you are, this is going to happen. Use the chain spray instead zero fling i use Dupont!
The bikes I've seen with scott Oilers usually tend to have very, very dirty rear wheels... 🤔 And with the cost of the kit, i can lube my chain for a lifetime 😁
I have always used oil to lube my chain on my motorcycle The bike I have now is a Honda 750 I put 40 thousand miles on my last chain before replacing it it was fine but I don't want to take a chance so I replaced it
Appreciate your video and opinions. However in my eyes “power washers” as you call it and motorcycles don’t mix. Forced water finds itself in between places it shouldnt be like chain links, bearings, electronics and lighting seams etc. Bad bad bad. Worse still is that you dont see this so you think it’s effective where in fact its too effective damaging internals without your knowledge. To me its a lazy way of so called cleaning. It has its effectiveness perhaps with dirt bikes getting initial mud and gunk off a bike. Secondly I think oil is an OK lubricant but it doesnt last. It flings off regardless of being on the inside or outside leaving the chain unprotected. Chain lubrication sprays are used specifically to keep the lube on the chain for much much longer. The secret in my opinion is to use it sparingly, then after application wiping off excess with a cloth soaked with kerosene. You will have a clean looking chain that will not only last but will not attract too much rubbish and residue. Also the corrosion resistance from these specialised chain lubes far superior to any oil. Thats what works for me, and my chains last a minimum of 30,000 kms on my road bikes! Anyway thanks for the video 👍
Anybody who is on top of their chain cleaning and lubrication every 300 or so miles regardless of what chain lube, wax, or oil you use is good 👍 at least they are doing it. On the other hand I have seen way to many people out on their bike and hasn't ever touched the chain since they day they bought it. I speed the hell up and get in front of em as I would prefer to not get hit by a flying chain 😂 Stay on top of your chain maintenance folks
Yes indeed. That trick I started using years ago. Works with mountain bike chains as well. Also lube while the chain is hot, thus the cooling chain will suck the oil into the places you really need it to go.
In the early 1970s, I was told by the dealer mechanic to use diesel fuel to clean the chain. Follow up with thick gear oil for lubrication. During the 70's I don't remember if O rings were used on chains.
I went a step further and made a chain oiler from a syringe, pneumatic tube going to the rear sprocket and a valve to stop it from leaking. Now my chain is literally lubricated with a press of a button. It really helps on a bike without a central stand. Cheapest gearbox oil stays on the chain for about the same amount of time or kilometers as spray grease. BTW service manual for my bike (and many other bikes) says gearbox oil like 80w90 is what you should use. Spray grease seems like a markeing bull$hit...
I came up with something similar. Not pressured as a syringe, but with the help of gravity and a venturi effect at atmospheric pressure. I've got a 2nd "clutch" oil reservoir, linked to a syphoned hose going down the frame and swingarm, fixed with zipties, aimed at the rear sprocket, just like a Scottoiler or a Nemo. It's also a manual procedure just like the syringe or Nemo method, but not a pressured one. When I 'm riding, from time to time, usually around 75 to 100 km, I manually undo the syphon, and oil starts flowing down the hose. With speed and wind flow, as oil drips out of the hose end, it makes a spray that will lube the chain and rear sprocket. With the current chain (JT 530 X1R, not the heaviest duty from JT) I've done 85k km and I'm expecting to do another 5 to 10k km, on a 1350cc engine. The reservoir I fill up with used engine oil and at home I use gear oil applied with a brush. I lube the chain almost everytime I ride, which is often. Using engine oil, since it's thinner than gear oil, has a secondary effect, which is self cleansing. Visually It looks like new but already has some wear, since chain length is reaching it's limit and starting to make those snapping sounds, especially when you pull a bit harder on the throttle. I only ride when it's raining if I'm caught, and it doesn't rain much where I ride. From my experience, I've been riding bikes almost for 40 years now and do my own maintenance, it's really important to lube the chain, with any kind of lubricant, even olive or sunflower oil, if anything more suitable isn't available at the moment (I've done that...), if you want it to last (and sprockets) and care about it. And yes, my rear wheel is always a mess...
Cleaning chain with pressure washer WILL bypass O-rings and wash out factory grease inside the chain.And that's game over for the chain.Secondly,I ride bike mostly on my knee and I'm kind of scared that this oil will spray on the edge of the tire...and that's game over for my ass.Travellers and sportbike small dick street racers (like me😁) are not the same...in terms of lean angle.I don't know,I'll try.Maybe you're right 👍
@@full-gazz-pitbike-kaputt Any dummy knows oils deteriorates rubber for a start. My 50 years in motorcycle mechanics has seen endless problems caused by oil on chains. depends on the bike but always caused damage to other parts. Mostly rubber covers, rubber spacers and some rubber seals. It will also soften the o rings in the chain and shorten the o ring life, although most chains are replaced regularly so its of little consequence to the chain.
@@philtucker1224 I work in the motorbike industry and see thousands of customer bikes. I think he has limited experience and he is only expressing his personal opinion.
I simply follow Honda's instructions for lubricating chains: engine oil. Since my 428 chains are half-inch pitch, I simply used an empty bicycle chain lube bottle I had. Nifty thing is the applicator is a sprocket with holes between the teeth so I just perch it on my chain, put my motorcycle in 1st gear, and with a light squeeze on the bottle, it applies an even amount of oil on my chain rollers. I then just wipe the excess off.
What bike and chain manufacturers says (and always was) about chain maintenance? Gearbox oil, or any high thick motor oil, every 200-300km, and after every rain trip. I used sometimes chain spray lube, but it's a pain in the ass to clean, catch all the road dirt, and fucks up the chain at the speed of light. But yes, it's convenient... Personally, i recycle my motor oil in a DIY automatic oiler. Works pretty well. Easy to clean, good lubrification, and my chain kit live way longer. For example, my commute bike is a 98's FZS 600, 265.000 km ( yes :] ), and the chain (non O-Ring DiD reinforced, so one of the cheapest) has almost 55.000km. Tips: i use P18 in my motor oil, so there is literally no wearing due to metal to metal friction. Oil is the way.
My 1970 Norton 750 Commando automatically lubricates the chain using crankcase blowby. My 1985 Jawa 350TS automatically lubes it's chain with gear oil that leaks past the drive seal and the chain case keeps dirt and grime off it.
been using 80/90w gear oil on my trailbike chain for a while now and noticed the chain is much more free in that the links turn better, noticeably quieter and easier to clean. The engine case in front of the sprocket also doesnt have the buildup of gunk anymore The thing is most user manuals for bikes with chains specify gear oil as the lubricant, spray lube is convenient but $$ and messy
I am riding bikes almost 40 years and I used oil for chain only on my mopeds 35 years ago. You know there is a reason why chain spray is sticky, well to stick to your chain and not all over your bike, garage floors or your pants. Chain cleaner has also been invented long time ago that perfectly cleans sticky residues without sweating a tear (you can also use cheap WD40). Honestly don't understand how your advice will be beneficial only if you want to save some bucks (with all drawbacks), ok maybe for storage use also. I think you will be better off with chain spray (all new bikes have one) and chain cleaner combo, no offence mate :)
I second your opinion. I tried using oil and I faced some disadvantages with it as compared to the chain cleaner and chain lube combination. First, it is a challange to apply and is quite messy an affair. Second, it seems to attract a lot of dirt and the chain soon starts to look quite dirty. Third, the oil spreads on unwanted places again creating more mess. Fourth, it is very difficult to carry in the can he has showed in vedio as there would be some oil on the outside and some may leak during transport. Fifth, cleaning the chain without a chain cleaner would just clean it superficially and not the places that the cloth can not reach. So, I reverted to the chain lube although it is a much more costlier option.
totally agree with you but wouldnt take wd40 to clean the chain because its bad for the o- rings id rather take some diesel that cleans really well and inst that aggresive towards the o-rings
@@kalle46wd40 is not bad for O rings.. it's mostly kerosene, watch a couple of the testing videos too, wd40 doesn't negatively impact the O rings at all
Sticky chain spray sticks to the chain and dirt sticks to it. Dirt is the enemy, as all lube gets flung off the rollers. The chain companies themselves don’t recommend chain spray, they recommend oil. The ‘Fortnine’ RU-vid channel did two videos proving the best ways to clean and lube, check them out if you haven’t seen them.
That's the proper way to lube your chain. Btw, don't pressure wash your chain, water gets under the rings and washes away the factory lube, just use some diesel fuel and a tooth brush and everything will come off easily.
I live on a gravel drive that has a lot of stone dust that kicks up. I don't think oil is the type of lube I want to use. It'll attract the dust and I'll have increased wear.
Spinning wheel by hand anti clockwise is even better, less loss of lube that way. Heavy duty gearbox oil best for sure. Cleaning the oil off parts makes it easy for sure.
Totally agree with you. I had been doing the same, every 500 kms, since I bought my motorcycle in 2019, both chain and sproket are in good condition. As its dirt cheap, its easy to take care of the cahin set rather than being worried of expences. Availability is also an important factor, if you are out on a long trip its difficult to find chain lube but oil will be easily available. Very important video, thanks for sharing Ride Hard, Ride Safe 😎👍🏻
Heavy duty oil is the worst thing you can add to your chain, compared to the best chain lube on the market. I mean, it is not wrong or bs, but a 15€ can of S100 would last easily 10.000km if you lube every 500km and it won't drip off of the chain after a while. Don't go offroad with oily chain...it eats dirt af.
I think every rider should use whatever they think is best. (Even if they are wrong) This RU-vid video shows how I’ve been doing it for over 20 motorcycles and 39 years riding. I can’t imagine getting less than 25 thousand miles out of a chain and sprockets, and on a 1200 Bandit I got to 40,000. I have an oiler can like his, but now I prefer to apply the gear oil with a brush as it gets to all the chain parts easily. I just pour a small amount of oil in a container (like a plastic drink cup), brush it on the chain, wipe it down without being too aggressive, and I’m done. If you do use the spray type, position a piece of old cardboard behind the chain so when you spray it doesn’t end up on the wheel, tire, swingarm, etc.
I've been using used engine oil for years now. I either us it on the chain or have to dispose of it. At the moment the chain on my zzr14 has 26k miles on it, and still good
Will this heavy duty oil work in rainy climates as well? Ofc reaplly after a rain ride… I can imagine it works in southern Europe… but what about England and the Netherlands?
Huh....As millions of other riders I use kerosene for cleaning. Quick and thorough. Then lube with BMW;s Motorand spray lube to seep into all the chain parts including the o rings. Light and effective it remains on the links for a long period. One can lasts or about 25 or 30 lubes. Best on market.
Don't go with that thing around, get the cheap oiler from loobman and just push the button for a couple seconds a bit before your trip destination. Chain always oiled
Bike manufacturers recommend oil because they don't want (or maybe for legal reasons cannot) to recommend one chain lube brand over another. That said, haven't tried chainsaw oil or gear oil yet, but might give it a try at some point
I use old fairy liquid bottle soften hose n hot water nd use a jubilee clip if desire coat it in o rings with small tooth brush that will also take away any dust nd old oil r grease
Totally agree. In fact, your quoting of the bike manual was spot on. Most manuals refer the user to a medium/ heavy gear oil for chain lubricant and that works well. I brush it on with a toothbrush being careful not to actually place the same brush back into the bathroom. Lol 😆 But chain lube is yet another unnecessary gimmick to rack up sales when something much simpler is all that is required. My apologies to those who love chain lube in a can.
Uso o que tiver à mão. Apenas uso óleo para evitar a ferrugem. Em viagem uso uma mistura de massa consistente e um pouco de óleo, pq não dá jeito limpar o excesso. Assim não salta por todo lado 👍 Tenho outro video a explicar como faço o lubrificante: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-AwQTIp3J3Oc.html Espero que ajude. Boas curvas companheiro 💪
But the 'metal friction' is you say is only on the pins, which are greased and sealed for life with o-rings -> the external parts of the chain are just strength and structure, they're not the rubbing or moving parts. So why even lube it beyond aesthetics??
Even the expensive O ring X ring chains have a plain metal bush (the bit that rides on the sprocket teeth) and it needs oil or it will not rotate smoothly and wear out the bike drive sprockets quickly.
The oil John, (apart from conditioning the "O" rings and keeping rust at bay) lubricates and reduces friction between the rollers and the bushings they rotate upon... as the rollers have no "O" rings. 90-140 diff oil is what I use and it makes my rides very smooth. 🙂
Yes! The ROLLERS on the rivets,or pins, DO NEED lubrication! The oil and chain should be hot so the oil is pulled into and between the pin/roller with CAPILLARY ACTION. Give the oil a few minutes to seep in….
Little education for all unable to think for yourselves. NEVER oil your chain. Oil lets the dirt and grit get in the chain and then acts like sandpaper wearing out your chain and sprockets. Chian lube or grease will catch the dirt or grit and keep it from ever touching your chain protecting it. If i sold parts and chains and sprockets was a part of my business i would encourage you to use oil also. But hay it's your money. Use oil if you have to much money.
@@FastDB10 never, always 80 or 90 gear oil, an have only ever changed 1 chain in 47 years, and that was when I fitted a zx10r swingarm on my zx9r, and needed a longer chain, and I clean my chains with desal!
Chain sprays is a marketing gimick. Problem is oil get allover the inner fender,... I use kerosene on a rag and it will remove oils and all chain sprays in a few seconds to spotless clean. Kerosene is what the bike manufacturers say to use to clean a chain. The commercial cleaners in a spray can are simply kerosene with a fragrance in them to hide the fact they are kerosene which is of course safe on O'rings.
With O-ring or X-ring chain on a street bike, no need to ever lube. I haven't lubed a chain in probably 30 years - since Oring/Xring chains became common.
He is correct. He is not a mechanic. He also cannot explain how drive chains are constructed. He also has not learned how to clean drive chains and how to apply spray type chain lube. It's completely clear to me why he has developed an inferior way to care for drive chains.
Funny how people are so cheap when it comes to buying the proper chemicals. A $12 can of chain wax will extend the life of the chain and sprockets because it does not attract dirt. Dirt is the number 1 enemy of the chain and sprockets.
Buy a cobra nemo2 or a nemo2 from china, this is what I've done and for the last 1.5 years my chain didn't saw any kind of brush cleaning. :) I gets cleaned when I wash my bike. And looks like new.
Oil tends to attract more dust which in turn increases friction between components, which in turn requires the chain to be cleaned more often. That's what I found out while maintaining my bicycle. On my motorcycle I've been using the chain spray and can confirm that the stuff is difficult to remove while cleaning the chain!
You take a old crappy rag , spray WD40 in the rag and wipe the chain as you turn your wheel !! Tried oil, grease and neither worked worth a damn !!! 😊😊😊😊😊😊😊 over 500,000 miles on my 4 Ducati and I believe that I know best !!! 😁😁😁😁🏍🏍🏍🍺🍺🍺
If you knew what you were talking about being a long distance rider you would have bought a shaft drive! Jk def though if you have a chain on thoose hot summer days before work lifting bike up to get wheel free you gitta find that exspensive lube . Glad u found the cheaper oil to work. I have also read that before.
Having worked with chains most of my working life (motorcycles, chainsaws and agri/plant equipment) the most cost effective lubricant i've found for motorcycle chain is filtered (run the oil through a paint filter to remove any solids) waste engine oil from said machine as it effectively costs nothing and is "thin" enough to penetrate into the pins & rollers (even on O and X ring chains) and link plates of the chain, finally it is a useful means by which to dispose of the used oil and there is anecdotal evidence that the carbon contaminants (why the oils black) aid in the lubrication.
You're just a scrooge in all fairness, old oil has some nasty toxins dissolved into it, not good if it gets on clothing & paintwork, chainsaw chain oil is very tacky & cheap, used it for yrs, spray chain lube is bullshit, as are O'ring chains, a well cleaned & lubed non O'ring chain will outlast an overpriced O'ring chain any day & it's far cheaper & lighter, causes less sprocket wear too.
I used gear oil to treat my rusty crf300L chain (under a year old and lightly used/kept in dry garage.) It splattered a lot so now I have a bike jack I cleaned it extensively with a rag. FortNine's chain lube tests made me happy.
I read an article by Michael Neeves from MCN..All about chains and lube.I followed his advice for the last 3 years on my 2 bikes....Triumph Street Triple 675 2009 and Triumph Speed Triple 1050 2005.So for 3 years neither bike has had any chain lube.I simply keep the chains clean by spraying on WD40 and wiping off the excess,Normally after 200-300 miles or after a wet ride.This is simply to stop the chains from rusting.Neither chain was new when I started this process but after 3 years and well over 20,000 miles on each chain neither is showing any appreciable wear.The theory is that any heavy lube attracts grit and dirt which forms a grinding paste and prematurely wears the chain.Also there is no lube that can prevent metal to metal contact between chain and sprocket teeth.....the environment is too harsh.My chains are always clean and the WD40 cleaning process takes about 2 or 3 minutes.I buy a 5 litre bottle of WD40 from E bay which lasts about 2 years(but the price has nearly doubled over 3 years).The WD40 does not seem to degrade the O rings.I ride my bikes every day for 9 months of the year but I do try and avoid wet weather riding.
