My wife bought skis on marketplace, and my experience was exactly like yours. I’m going to follow this tonight and set the bindings myself and take my chances that the bindings themselves are ok after a certain age. This is the exact info I was needing. 👍
One of the most helpful videos on RU-vid. My local ski shop said they couldn't touch my bindings after I bought new boots from them. They urged me to buy new bindings from them. Instead I watched your video, adjusted my bindings myself, and saved a couple hundred bucks. Thank you, sir!
Really old skis and Atomic bindings, and now I'm older person with apparently a new DIN setting. Only thing is new is the boots! Your easy to follow video has me out skiing tomorrow. Thanks so much!
Thank you very much. I bought a second hand Ski yesterday with Salomon S711 bindings and I just figured out taking a clue out of your video, as to how to adjust the bindings to fit my boots.
Thanks so much, the best tutorial I've seen so far. Simple and informative, with a good balance between safety and practicality. The "experts" won't like you.
Great explanation! I couldn't find a good video anywhere and I'm going skiing tomorrow with a friend's pair of skis. I've been snowboarding the last 10 years. You saved the day, now I can ski tomorrow after a few adjustments!
Very concise, articulate instructions. Just a few simple steps to follow and you did a great job explaining it. An official technician probably know the various bindings differences more but it’s not rocket science. When I use to rent skis, the guys there adjust your boots to the rental skis/bindings in like 1-2mins if that... No DIN calculator used. Proper safe fit is definitely important, but taking some time to do it right yourself cannot be any worst than what they do with rental equipment.
Excellent video. I was looking for a tutorial on how to adjust ski bindings, and this one answers all my questions. I'll try this on the weekend with a Tyrolia 10D and a Salomon LZ 7. Just to be sure, I'll have it all double checked by the professionals in the ski shop, but out of curiosity I'm going to have a go first. Thanks for sharing, great work.
great tutorial! A reason for your local ski shop not to touch them is because these bindings in particular use an old system and by time they tend to get unsafe(the spring gets lazy and doesnt correspond to the DIN settings correctly any longer). Your local ski shop probably doesnt want to take blame if your ski doesnt come off and you hurt yourself.(this is what one of my colleagues told me, i work at a ski shop myself.)
Yeah that’s just consumeristic thinking. I won’t drive my 20 year old car tomorrow because it’s might make it to my destination. Anything after 2000 in skis will still be fine. Get it tested if in doubt.
Thank you so much! Just helped my buddy adjust his device 310s because there’re ‘unserviceable’ Got them at a ski swap and it’s bs they sell them if they are unserviceable
Information you provided was very helpful, I had similar situation with the exact same bindings and skis are still unused. I was able to adjust it after looking at your video.
The boot sole length will affect your din setting. Had to adjust for the new boot sole length but did you check the din release chart to see if your new boot sole length changed your recommended setting? Also be aware that just because you set it at a din value the boot will not necessarily release at that setting. That is why we physically release check every binding with a din force measuring tool. I have been a binding technician for a long time. That Atomic binding is a carry over from the old Ess Var bindings they were never one of my favorite bindings. You should get it released checked if possible.
Perfect! Exactly what I need to know to set up my atomic bindings. Only part you left out whas how tight the toe needs to be. I saw another video that if you set a piece of paper in under the boot and you can pull it out easily it is too high/loose. And if the paper rips when you pull it is too tight/low. It should pull out tightly but not rip. Edit: apparently you added a toe cup adjustment link in the description! Awesome.
I have several set of skis (8) and have encountered same issues and conducted similar adjustments and have also observed even with new purchases than I have been asked to sign off on liability waivers so new or old the seller is covering their liability issues which I understand. Only thing is that would still be nice to conduct that final step of testing if you can find a licensed tech willing to do so for some peace of mind and remove any nagging doubt. Where I deem it better to change binding and save the ski then I do . Either way you are on your own peril and video remains informative. The only caveat you do so at your own risk .
Absolutely awesome tutorial!! I usually snowboard but wanted to ski on my skis that haven't been used more than 10 times but the new boots opened a can of worms.....
Adding a comment as a certified ski technician for Atomic, Salomon, Look and Marker. I do not think most skiers understand what is involved in setting and testing indemnified alpine ski bindings. First the technician determines a skier's DIN reference number (note I said reference number) based upon a skier's weight, height, ability, age and boot sole length. Yes there are charts we use, and the charts are standardized within the ski binding industry. 2nd, the technician adjusts the binding for proper forward pressure (and that's assuming the binding is already mounted for the correct boot position). 3rd, the technician makes sure that all parts including the boot are in good working order and cycles the binding through several releases making sure that binding parts are moving as intended. Finally, and this is the part that probably no one watching this video can perform and the most important step, the ski technician inserts a metal foot into the boot, inserts the boot into the binding and attaches a torque wrench designed for ski bindings or uses a binding testing machine. In either case, the technician checks that the binding is releasing within the specified forces allowed for the skier. (both forward and twist). The technician is allowed to correct by either tightening or loosing the din screws to bring the release values within the recommended range. If a binding tests too high or too low then the binding is failed. So, yes you can adjust your din correctly and correctly set your forward pressure but without testing the system, you are never really going to know if it is releasing correctly. Indemnification. If we did not have to worry about lawyers, we would not be worried about indemnification. Having said that, the time that bindings are indemnified varies between binding manufacturers, but generally it's about 10 years. Like anything else, bindings eventually become unreliable with time and use. Plastic becomes brittle, lubricants dry out or evaporate thus friction increases, metal springs lose tension over time . . . . . it is recommended that bindings are set back to their minimum din rating after each ski season to prevent fatigue . . . . how many here do perform that? Can't afford new bindings . . . . knee surgery is really expensive and your knees are never the same . . . .not too mention other nasty injuries that can occur if your bindings don't release correctly . . . . . or pre release. There's alway XC skiing. Much easier on your body, far better workout, and xc skiers don't worry about indemnification. Last word, and some insight from my perspective on skiing. What's in my quiver? 2 pairs of Alpine skis, 4 pairs of telemark skis, 3 pairs of backcountry (metal edge w/pattern), 3 pairs of xc touring/track skis, and 2 pairs of skate skis plus a couple pairs of rock skis for those early/late season days in September/October.
Clint: You're quite right, of course. But the metal-foot-on-a-torque-wrench jig brings another life-critical scenario to mind: The Mechanic's Nuts. Remember the last time you saw a certified, professional mechanic refer to your vehicle's service manual, determine the proper wheel lug nut tightening spec, and use a torque wrench to tighten the nuts which protect your family from the potential effects of a catastrophic failure of the car's wheel assembly? Me neither. But those nuts are the only things standing between a safe drive home and death. Ever torque your lug nuts with a good torque wrench? I was shocked at how little effort it takes to get them up to spec. Overtorquing can be just as dangerous as undertorquing. This kind of error is designed in from the outset. Occasionally, I have to climb communication towers. The safety factor designed into the rope work devices is never less than 10 to 1. And when you get too close to a radiating antenna, the RF field safety alarm beeps to stop you when the field strength reaches 10% of the maximum allowable. (Google "safety code 6 radio frequency" for some light bedtime reading. One rolls the dice when one wants to, but bystanders need not place any bets. Shops who won't work on unindemnified equipment should not be held in contempt, unless they've misled their customers to help their sales. Most likely, folks following Matt Culik's advice will be fine. Most likely...
I'm going to try and give a simple explanation as to why bindings are removed from indemnification. Yes, DIN settings are based on height, weight, age, skier ability and BSL; under the assumption that the spring within the binding still operates within safe parameters. These parameters are front lean and twist. You need to mechanically test these values to make sure that they fall within acceptable limits. If these acceptable limits are not met, your DIN setting is false. If your springs have failed due to seizing or slop, just because you set the visual indicator at 6.5 does not mean you are actually at 6.5. This is why manufacturers remove certain bindings from their indemnity, they are no longer reliable.
great video man! explanation clear and to the point. Chap Arst dont be a hater! this guy took the time to put a great video together and thats all you can say!?
Wonderful and very helpful! I have exactly the same bindings, but I can’t move the front part of the binding despite releasing the screw. Am I missing anything? Thanks again!
Great video but I did not see any test of the front toe cup height adjustment. I am no expert but from other videos it looks like a piece of paper should just slide under the sole of the boot and the binding with some resistance when the it is set correctly.
Check the bottom screw in the heel piece. when your forward pressure is correct, it is flush with the housing. DO NOT ADJUST THE FORWARD PRESSURE WITH THE BOOT IN THE BINDING!. YOU WILL STRIP THE HEEL ADJUSTMENT CAM. If the screw is not flush, remove the boot and loosen or tighten as needed. Insert boot and check. Once you have tit set flush, remove boot and turn screw in 1-2 clicks. Your done. I worked in a ski shop(-:
Great tutorial. I'm skeptical about the "it's just math" part. What exactly happens between age 49 and 50 that moves you a full din? If you are post certain injuries might you want the bindings looser? It seems like there's some give. But I'm just wondering
My "it's just math" comment was based on the fact that there is a formula for determining the "right for most people most of the time" DIN setting. That said, I completely agree that the perfect DIN setting will vary from person to person and that's why you should take your bindings to a pro if you can. The pros have the knowledge to make tweaks that I'm not qualified to suggest, hence my reliance on the formula.
Great Video--Question--I have a chance to buy a used set of these..mint condition--allegedly used once...only $50. Curious what you thought of the ski itself. I currently ski a used Atomic R11's...intermediate skiier..mostly groomed cruisers....any description would be appreciated!
These skis have worked well for me, but I'm probably not the best person to comment on them. I figured out how to adjust my own bindings and made this video because I don't ski enough to have made it worth purchasing a new set of skis/bindings when the shop told me these were too old. I'm an intermediate East Coast skier, and it sounds like we ski the same kinds of runs. I don't have any complaints about these skis, but I also haven't skied a ton of others for comparison.
Great explanation on most elements of the binding, but you didn't show how you actually set the height of the toe binding with the boot in. I assume it's just so it touches the top of the boot binding interface, but not so much it creates a lot of friction?
You're right. Someone actually already called me out on this, so I made a second video explaining it - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UBp1S0wunS4.html.
just got my first own skis and realized i dont understand how it works.... but with rental skis, ive broken my thumb 3 times because ski comes off when im in air. better to adjust myself
i just bought two pairs of atomic skis one with device 310 bindings and the other with XTL7 atomic bindings. i think i can figure out how to adjust the 310 bindings but i am having trouble with the XTL7. any suggestions? i bought these skis used before i really investigated all of the aspects of binding and I am worried that a disaster will happen. both of us are beginner skiers so we are not going to be sking hard and fast, just nice and comfortable on easy slopes.
The Device 310 bindings were recalled because the heel piece explodes, I highly suggest you do not ski on these. Like someone pointed out earlier if your car was recalled, would you call their bluff?
Many Atomic bindings manufactured between 1998 and 2002 were recalled several years ago because of the heel piece, but the Device 310 was not one of them. Here's a link explaining the recall - www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2008/atomic-skis-usa-recalls-ski-bindings-due-to-unexpected-release-fall-hazard. Folks who have been skeptical in the comments are right, though. Bindings are a safety thing, and if you are going to mess with them or ski old ones, you need to understand that doing so is much more risky than skiing new bindings that have been adjusted by a ski shop.
Yea no one will work on these bindings anymore because atomic recalled all their Atomic Device 310 bindings. I know this because I am a certified Ski technician, your best bet is to watch how this guy adjust these bindings or go to your local and see if there is anything Atomic can do to replace your Atomic Device 310's.
I have these bindings as well and didn't realise they had been recalled in both US and Canada. Thanks to Anthony G above for pointing it out. Proceed with caution... www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2008/atomic-skis-usa-recalls-ski-bindings-due-to-unexpected-release-fall-hazard www.healthycanadians.gc.ca/recall-alert-rappel-avis/hc-sc/2008/12496r-eng.php
If you pay cash & no written work order & no receipt, then some shops will adjust, but they usually refuse to remount old bindings due to lack of proper jig. You can check your indemnification status online: www.gondyline.com/indemnified.php I recommend Look Pivot 14 or 18. Rock solid, no frills, or gimmicks & hasn't changed in years - still fully indemnified. They also offer a Pivot 12 for girlyman...
Matt Culik but if your an advanced skier charging hard your ski will just pop off and you will get hurt real bad. I guess if you like a senior you would want a very light din setting that makes sense.
Coming from a ski tech certified by Marker, Rossignol, Salomon, and Tyrolia; there is a reason that bindings are removed from their indemnification. It's because they are deemed no longer safe to operate. If your binding is no longer backed by its manufacturer, don't ski it. They aren't trying to sucker you into buying new bindings. They literally have tested numerous numbers of these models and deemed them unsafe.
+Chap Arst You sound just like these nine words: "I'm from the government, and I'm here to help!" Heh. heh. Ok, before you kill me, I will say that you're right, SOMETIMES there is a reason. But most of the time, there is not. But let's not lose sight of one thing. This is the ONLY RU-vid tutorial that explains this in detail.
Brian Coverstone, injure yourself on an unindemnified binding and see what happens. There's literally a team of lawyers on retainer for the manufacturer ready to counter suit your claim. If a binding is on the unindimnified list and you ski that binding, you have NO case against the manufacturer. In fact, this video proposing how to adjust unindemnified bindings is 100% illegal, if Atomic/Salomon felt the need to do so, they can and will sue you.
+Chap Arst I understand what you are saying and it's good that you have alerted everyone to the danger. Now why don't you shut your sanctimonious pie-hole!
+Chap Arst The difference between an indemnified & non-indemnified binding is simply that the user assumes all the risks from release, non-release, or complete failure. Most of us assume all those risks whether the binding is indemnified or not; i.e., it's not illegal to adjust a binding, it's just not recommended & it removes liability from the manufacturer & certified retailer/tech shop. At the very least, the manual for the binding should be consulted for proper fit with the boot. Some shops will perform work on non-indemnified bindings as long as you sign a release of liability form. Now, do you happen to have a jig for my 1970's plate bindings?
Great video. However the reason your shop doesn't touch those is because your heel piece is a ticking time bomb. Steer clear of the woodline man, you're literally taking your life into your hands. The shitty plastic Atomic put into its Device series bindings does not hold up, and fails. If Ford recalls your car because the tie rods they put in the cars are failing, are you really going to call their bluff?
Thanks for the info Anthony. Much appreciated. www.healthycanadians.gc.ca/recall-alert-rappel-avis/hc-sc/2008/12496r-eng.php www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2008/atomic-skis-usa-recalls-ski-bindings-due-to-unexpected-release-fall-hazard