How to bleed BMW with Electric Coolant pump 

Ha Ha you made my day. Thanks.

Appreciate that.

Thank you for your encouragement. I'm glad it helped.

Thank you!

nice!!

You made my day. Happy it helped.

No prob. You unscrew the bleeder valve in the beginning when you are filling the system up with fluid to let the initial air out of the line. ( it's a pre-bleeding procedure and is only required if work was performed on the system). Close the screw before electrically bleeding the system . I put the cap on so it doesn't spray everywhere when bleeding. The point of bleeding is to get the trapped air bubbles out from the engine block and lower coolant hoses. Then you can correct the coolant level after all of that if needed. There needs to be an air gap in the tank to accommodate for expansion. Remember air can be compressed but water cannot. If the air wasn't in the tank then the system would explode.

Glad it helped!

Happy to help

It will not reset the ECU doing that. To reset the ECU on BMW's it requires a machine. You are safe to precede

Was it a bad water pump? Because mine wasnt bleeding either

No problem 👍

Yes, you can open it to monitor the progress and add coolant if needed.

@@MikeMDs because my coolant level is good, but still sometimes I have cold air waves even when the engine is at constant operating temps. And yes, the thermostat is good. So I would perhaps consider bleeding using this procedure and open the screw from time to time, or simply open it until there aren’t any bubbles coming out.

You need to have a battery charger connected when doing this like stated in the video. It is too much load on the battery. If the battery isn't at the correct voltage the pump will also not bleed correctly. Try and charge the battery back up and only then perform the bleeding procedure again with battery charger connected. :)

The thermostat will stay open as a failsafe if it is faulted. But if the engine control module senses it is bad, it is likely telling the coolant pump to stay on all the time as a precaution.

Mike MDs So the pump only kept going after I bled the coolant, as in it never stopped the bleeding mode; that is until I turned the car off 30 minutes later. So what would cause it to never stop the bleeding mode? You mentioned in another comment that a faulty pump or something about a bus line? So could my problem be a bad thermostat AND something else like the bus line or a bad pump? When you say “pump” you are referring to the water pump correct? Also if it is staying open, would I still have the overheating problem that I’m having? Also if the car’s heater works just fine could it be the thermostat, I’ve read that if the thermostat is bad the heater won’t work. Thanks so much for your time!

Both can cause the pump to stay on until the vehicle enters sleep mode. I doubt you have both a bus line issue and a thermostat issue. You may of had a thermostat fault the entire time. I really don't have a confident answer but my guess is when ''Force bleeding" the pump it rechecks to see what faults are present and acts accordingly.

An additional thought.. The pump has a cpu inside it that controls different pump speeds. It may have blown out all the lower speeds due to the bleeding procedure and now stays on high speed . Just like an A/C blower resistor or auxiliary cooling fan circuits. They do the same thing if all the other speeds go bad. In other words the pump may be bad now. But I'd try the thermostat first. Hope this helps.

@@MikeMDs For a water pump to break during a normal bleeding procedure a $750-$1250 problem from a simple bleed that doesnt speak highly of German engineering and doesn't sound right

Dang, Could be air bubble, also make sure the electric fan is coming on. They intermittently stop working when they get warmer on higher mileage cars. If you have a code reader, make sure there are no coolant pump high amperage or blockage fault codes. If so then the pump is going bad. Best of luck

@@MikeMDs thanks man! I just parked it until the weekend then I'll check the water pump and fan are working okay. No cel lights came on just the yellow overheating symbol so I shut it off and parked it. 220k miles it's just getting broken in🤣

Some do that . Shutting off the key after 10 min should be enough time

Glad it was helpful!

Engine is cold, just water pump is working. So no need to cap off tightly.

Also changed the sensor and the light still comes on

If you check the level and it is good. Then it is a bad coolant tank. The float inside is waterlogged and not floating properly .

Thanks! Glad it was helpful

Hi, I would replace it along with the plastic thermostat which is bolted to it. Especially if you think it is original and you drive long distances. Even if it is snowing out , if that pump stops then the engine will still overheat. If they have been replaced before then you are probably okay.

They don't have it.

Glad it was helpful!

No, the power source is only so the pump activation wont drain your battery.

after adding coolant. Only needed if the system was open for a repair.

Hi, that year has the older engine which has a mechanical water pump. So this method will not work. You will have to bleed it traditional method

you can use a battery tender/charger from autozone. Let the battery charge to max before doing this procedure. See if there is one with a ps mode (power supply) and set it to that mode . That mode is used when the key is on in the vehicle.

thank you so much, again thanks for the video

Leave the door open and the angels lights on so the car won’t go to sleep

Because the expansion tank is the highest point in the coolant system on that vehicle, one procedure should be fine. The cap doesn't matter if it is on or off while doing it. It may spray out a little while bleeding and make a mess. If so then put the cap on. Drive after with the heater on for ten min. Let cool down and recheck level.

@@MikeMDs Awesome Mike, thank you for your help. Stay safe and healthy

@@MikeMDs Hi Mike, one more question. Today I replaced the expansion tank and cap, the lower hose connection was the hardest part. The cars has been sitting for over a week and I feel my battery is not the strongest because I haven't been driving the car a lot and before buying it I know it was not driven often. I bought the NOCO GENIUS5 which is a 6-volt and 12-volt battery charger that puts 5 amps of charge. I'll leave it overnight charging the battery. I want to do the bleeding procedure tomorrow and I assume the battery will be fully charge. I just want to double check if it is okay to have the charger connected to the car when I start the procedure and if this charger will help to keep the battery from dying?

You can perform with a charger attached. But NOT a jumper . It will votage spike the system.

Yes your correct. We fill it more to prevent the customer from coming back a week later with a low coolant light. Sometimes the level drops after a coolant repair and bleeding due to small trapped air pockets.

@@MikeMDs got it. Quick question, does bleeding coolant system prevents it from getting cracks on the plastic parts?

No unfortunately that is just due to age and heat of the coolant passing through the hose. Fresh Coolant mix can extend the life of already good components as it has lubricating and corrosive resistance properties.

Glad you enjoyed

Also its engine code is n46b20b

This is for the 6 cylinder engines in the US. Not sure about the 4 cylinder as we do not have it here.

Mechanical pump.

Glad it was helpful!

The bleeding mode is supposed to shut down automatically after a few minutes. If it doesnt the pump is either faulty or the bus line that controls it is down ( it shares the bus line with the oil level sensor and alternator. If either of those components are faulty it will cause this issue) I've seen people drive around like this with no problem. But it does put stress on the pump. Eventually when the car is off the pump will stop when the vehicle enters sleep mode. ( kind of like your computer's screen saver )

@@MikeMDs thanks for replying so quick yeah mine is driving fine is just aggravating hearing that pump turn on itself and start the bleeding process with no reason. When I'm around doing something. I just does it once though. Everytime I use the car and come back home and turn it off. like 2 mins After i turn the car off.. i can hear that pump going on bleeding mode.

@@henryordonez910 same here did you figure out the issue ?

@@henryordonez910 bad water pump

Don't open the screw while it is electronically bleeding. The screw is for filling the coolant system before bleeding. You open the screw, add coolant, close the screw. Then bleed the system.

That shouldn't matter. You may have another issue.

Do a google search for BMW OEM parts. Select a website and enter your BMW info searching for parts. Select the cooling category and see what it lists for a water pump. Good luck.

you probably don't have one. That year came with a different engine . If you see a fan that is attached to the engine by the radiator and only spins when the engine is running , then you have a mechanical water pump. Which in that case you would bleed the conventional way using the bleeder screw at the coolant tank. Once topped off, run the engine with the defroster and heater at full blast for 5 min. shut car off then recheck level add more if needed then go drove the vehicle with the heater on. After car cools down recheck level again.

Meaning after your are done with the bleeding procedure. Turn off the key for 10 seconds before starting the vehicle.

Yes, tighten it before running the vehicle.

It is normal for it to vary in speed and shut on and off while performing the bleeding procedure.

No . Only if you are doing a repair and have lost a lot of coolant.

@@MikeMDs Ah. Thanks! 🙏

Im not sure on your first question. I've never tried that. The second question. No cleaning checmicals are recommended as you will never get them out completely. Unless you have foreign liquid in the system like engine oil or stop leak. At that point it is recommended to use GAIN laundry detergent. As it is gentle and wont etch or absorb into the coolant components. you would need to flush the system many times though. You run the engine with it to get it warm in-between flushes.

@@MikeMDs Thank you have a nice day

There could be a trapped air bubble at the pump. You may try using the bleeder screw or crack open a line to bleed some air out while filling it with fluid

Mike MDs Question Wich cars have an electric waterpump ? How can you tell ? I have an bmw e63 from 2005 a 630i but i dont see any coolant spraying ?? When i start it it flows Is it broken ? Or dont i have an electric pump ?

Do a google search for BMW OEM parts. Select a website and enter your BMW info searching for parts. Select the cooling category and see what it lists for a water pump. Good luck.

Your engine has a mechanical main coolant pump. And a small electric pump for the turbocharger. This method will not work on your engine. You bleed it the old school way. Heater on while revving it at 3k rpms till you feel heat coming out of the vents. Make sure the coolant cap is on while doing this.

You bet!

My charger is automatic. But definitely not on trickle. This thing draws some amps.

@@MikeMDs thanks! I set it to 10A last night for 3 bleed cycles, and it pulled closer to 12-15A probably. Worked great with $60 hobo freight tool, if only i didnt Put the radiator to turbo air hose on loose 😂

I also changed Raidiator

Yes some just keep on going forever. So as long as there are no bubbles you are golden.

you should be fine.

Mike MDs Thanks dear for the Helpful video and information 😊

Welcome

It's hard to know what is leaking without seeing is. my guess is a loose hose clamp at the pump or thermostat.

Yes if the pump is faulty the bleeding will not work.

Yes it is the same.

Yes, the pump should still work. If it didn't work the engine would overheat quickly.

@@MikeMDs so you dont need to turn up the the heater in order to bleed the system? Just kinda confused on how that works

Oh I see what you mean. I'm not sure actually. I've never came across that scenario. You can try .

​@MikeMDs I changed my coolant reservoir in my 2008 BMW 328i due to me checking because I noticed the fan running alot more and in a high gear ( the cap was bad so I changed the reservoir also floaty broken). Anyways I disconnected the battery and reconnected at that time the ac and heater stopped blowing completely. I was still able to perform the bleeding process with the switch turned to heater position. It seemed to work the stream of water was visible and the movement inside the reservoir was happening also. Today I find out the voltage in my battery was so low they couldn't figure out why my car was even starting. Needless to say I have several lights on the dash no air or heat and fan still running constantly yet temperature still reads in the higher 80's . I'm overwhelmed!

Some models will keep going. after 10 min you can stop it as that is plenty of time.

@@MikeMDs thank you!

Cycling the key usually shuts it down.

Hi, You probably have a weak battery. The car will turn off the ignition on purpose. You can try and hook a battery charger to your car. Let it charge the battery first for about an hour then try it again leaving the battery charger attached.

oh, mine is an 07 E87 120i

Not all vehicles will stop at a specified time. 3 minutes will be plenty.

you may have an air bubble. Try it a few times.

Mike MDs I’ve done It like 5 times. And It doesn’t do anything. And water doesn’t squirt out of It. I’m so lost about It!

What BMW and year do you have?

Mike MDs 2011 bmw 328i

@@SwayPromo if no water is filtering out when you're bleeding the pump inside your coolant reservoir your water pump is failing or has already failed. Should be able to see the stream in most modern bmws now. My bmw 535i (f10) started overheating, so right now I've ordered the water pump, thermo kit, and coolant temp sensors. My fan sounds like a jet engine that you can hear from a block away. Let you know once I've found the solution.

If the coolant has ate the plastic stick completely off. I would go from the bottom of the reservoir and unbolt and bleed the reservoir then take it and remove the stick and get all the plastic out asap. If not you would be digging with plyers and not get it all. The reservoir is 20$ u can also just buy a new one.

Same

@@Astralkiller47 my pump was shot. But hey is lasted 110k miles. Put a brand new continental OEM pump in w wahler OEM thermostat and it’s good as New now. It’s not HARD but it’s def not easy to replace the water pump

@@startingtech3900 I just added some more coolant and it started giving me a little more "splishy splashy" lol.... hopefully that was the issue because pumps are expensive and that labor is not something im excited to do, but I am at 120k, so its inevitable.

@@Astralkiller47 yeah man pretty expensive. I did all my own work for 400$ I replaced the coolant tank for the hell of it too. But all that work at a shop would be 2000$ on the LOW end

@@Astralkiller47 and yeah 120k your overdue. Is your bmw overheating ??? Any engine over temp signs on the I drive???

Only need to bleed the cooling system after a repair or a flush/drain. Otherwise, no need. The OLD coolant should be collected and taken to an automotive recycling center

The electric waterpump is in a tight spot on the right side of the engine. Without a hoist I'd say no it is not easy.

You're welcome!

It would likely work but I don't recommend it.

Works if battery good 👍 or jump with other car or another battery connect . Three ways. Yes you can bleed the car if you just start it with cap off. Thought I'd throw those things out there seeing I'll buy these cars any condition.

HI your diesel most likely has a mechanical water pump . The best way is to run the defroster on hot and drive it for a couple of miles . then recheck the level once its cooled down.

Mike MDs no it has electrical pump , i checked the ista process how to do officially MY VIN CODE IS C774376 NEWTIS page there is manual But it doesent work for me and i have no error coded I checked myself and also by Bmw ...could it be water valve? www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f10-m550d-xdrive-lim_201204/repair-manuals/17-cooling/17-00-cooling-check/JLmz6P6L

Sorry just saw your reply. Did you figure it out? Do you hear the pump even operating? If so them maybe air bubble. If you dont hear the pump then maybe it is bad or not getting power to it. Nor sure .

Mike MDs my car uses different method according to BMW u need to put igniton On, heater max temp low fan, Press gas 10 second, and start engine within 30 second but it doesent happening any special as My Water circulates Immediately as i start the engine Even at cold ... I now also started to loose coolant without any sign off leaking , i had my dpf deleted and it doesent smoke white or black no funny coolant smell i dont know whats happening with this car :/ i had coolant changed By specialist doing the Vacuum Bleeding and filling method And same Water sound ... He put new blue coolant original bmw its now after 700km under minimum .. And from blue color turned red if u look in my Coolant reservoir but if i suck out little water its Blue i cant understand it :(

@@bmwsincekid you may have to take it to BMW specialist. Its money, but they may find the issue faster without throwing parts at it. Please keep me in the loop. I wish you the best.

Hi yes if it keeps on going you can shut it off by cycling the key.

No you don't need to run the engine to bleed. You can drive it after the bleeding procedure with the heater on. Then recheck the level when the engine is cold again.

yes if it is a 6 cylinder and not a diesel.

@@MikeMDs hi Mike. What to do then if diseal? Thanks

Yes, before bleeding electronically, I remove the screw and add water/coolant to the reservoir till it starts coming out of the bleeder screw. Then screw it back in and electronically bleed it.

@@MikeMDs thank you I got it to work swapped a new water pump and it failed in 2 weeks luckly I keep the old one as it was still good on my swapped because I had a thermostat

Mike MDs I have an n54 535i and the bleeder screw is on the opposite side facing the firewall. Would I still fill until comes out?

yes, just be careful not to over tighten, It is brittle. Sometimes water will not drizzle out. that is okay, It is just to get most of the air out of the line. The pump is smart and can detect if it is not spinning in coolant, so it will not bleed correctly to prevent the pump from burning out.

Mike MDs okay so put in a funnel and fill until it starts coming out the bleeder hole? Because I put a good amount but not overkill where the bobber floats to the top and still says coolants low. Do you think I might’ve stripped the sensor when I replaced the expansion tank? ( I wasn’t very rough with it)

Hi there, your battery state of charge is probably too low . The car is smart and will shit everything off to save the battery. You will need to attach a charger while you bleed it.

@@MikeMDs thanks Mike I'll try it at work since I work at a shop. Thanks

@@MikeMDs shit?