@@ceejordan9649 you do if you're doing it with 2 people, if you're doing it by yourself just make sure the hose is above the bleeder valve so no air gets in
Great video. I have 2013 Honda Fit with ABS in the front but my Haynes manual provides an order for bleeding and starts at left front. Seems opposite of what is mentioned here and most other places I've looked....
how u know or When do u fully flush out replace all brake fluid? Is it always necessary ? Brake fluid used to be all DOT3 now DOT4 stuff.. hygroscopic blahblah means absorb moisture water which H2O so air gets in eventually? too. guess lot of chemistry and physics go into brake fluid. In cold winters rust loves grows overnote onetal esp near ocean coasts right.. Can u tell visually or feel of slimy brake fluid or go by time years or mileage on brake fluid useful life ? Is it hard to drain it all out or have to flush lines and master cyl under pressure ? Do a vid on it plz
Hey definitely need a decent description of abs yes I could google but rather have a point of view from you all it’s a old video but it’s a project I’m doing today hopefully you’re doing well and have a little time to respond I have front wheel drive on a 300 2008 Chrysler does this mean I have to bleed back
it can be annoying if the container for the fluid falls over, but there are bleeder kits out there with the bottle, the tube and a magnet to hold the bottle in place. just stick it to your car, easy, costs £10
For a person with no friends, I especially thank you for this video because I could not figure out anyone to help me bleed my brakes but if there’s a will there’s a way-and my brakes are gonna get done this weekend!!
+nate theGREAT Thank you for the reply! We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
RIGHT lol this method works i had been workin for like 2 hours to get mine bled and then i watched this video- done in 10 minutes. Way easier than I was making it. The two things that tripped me up- 1. not having a vent on my bottle for air to flow out 2. Overloosening the bleed bolt. really barely gotta unscrew it and bam flows like water I just used some old denebulizer tubing and a pieve of tape over a bottle, for those who dont wanna screw and ziptie and whatnot
Just a friendly suggestion...if the vehicle happens to be your own property, replace all the caliper bleeder screws with Dorman SpeedBleed bleeder screws (which have one-way check valves built into them); and fit lengths of 3/16" vinyl tubing onto each bleeder screw and open them all up at the same time. Place the free ends of the vinyl tubing into the same container, and invert your brake fluid container onto your open master cylinder, and leave it there. Pump your brake pedal slowly and consistently, until clean fluid is seen in all hoses, and all hoses are free of air bubbles. Remove your brake fluid container from the master cylinder and re-cap the master cylinder. Give the brake pedal a few more pumps if the master cylinder fluid level is too high, then close all bleeder screws and remove the vinyl tubing from each and replace the protective caps. Purge the brake fluid from the lines into your container, and dispose of it properly. You will have bled the entire system in the same time it would have taken you to bleed only the longest brake line, and be done on less than half the time it would take you to bleed each line individually--fantastic when you need to do a full system flush.
probably one of the best videos on bleeding I've seen, much appreciated. I've been turning wrenches since I was 17, mostly because I didn't have the money to take it to a mechanic and I don't believe I had ever seen this method, totally makes sense though, I'm 52 now.
I had good success with this technique but I still had some air in system - possibly due to bleeder valve undone more than needed... I added my own variation by pumping the brake 4 times and then using a cut 2x4 and the electric seat forward to do the final pump and hold it in place.... then tighten up / release as you would 2 person technique. This additional step fixed the the pedal from being sloppy / soft/ long travel which is a sign that there is air in the system.
Worked like a charm! My roommate actually pumped while I hooked this up, no mess, no constant tightening and loosening. 10/10 definitely recommend! Ps. I just saw this video an hour and a half ago, ran to oriellys, back home and done
Man I can't even tell ya, it's priceless that you guys share your years of experience to help us out at home. I've saved myself a lot of money by doing it myself with the help of your videos. No way can I afford a mechanic, I spend too much on tools!!
I was in a pickle after doing work to my car and during the test drive afterwards the brakes were super spongy. I knew I let a very little amount of air into the system, but was not sure what the impact would be. Wow, just a little bit of air made my vehicle so dangerous to drive. I don't have any friends close to me, so I searched RU-vid for "remove air from brake lines without bleeding" hoping there was a way. I found your video, went to the hardware store, picked up clear vinyl tubing. Went to the auto parts store, picked up brake fluid. Did this to my rear brake calipers and problem was solved. So simple and easy. Thank you very much for making and sharing this video. Have a great day and cheers.
i worry about air being sucked in around the bleeder screw threads with the one man system. i prefer the two man so the screw is closed when you release the brake pedal.
Best video eeveeeer! As far as bleeding the brakes, thank you so much 1A auto and thank you so much for explaining slowly and patiently. Love 1A auto DIYs. Hands down the best.
1A is the cat's pajamas. (They had a video to do my P71 Crown Vic's intake manifold. I even bought it from them. It was pretty easy - "With their help.")
Whenever I do a repair and have to get RU-vid certified or take the RU-vid refresher. I get a sy of relief everytime 1a auto pops up! I've used about 20 or 30 of ur videos to make sure I don't forget the t's and i's of mechanics work. The videos you guys do gives me confidence in repairs compared to the Haynes books . You are appreciated. All of you. From the vehicles to the mechanics and from the videographers to the editors... Thanks again 💯
You should warn people attempting this, that on older vehicles the bleeder screw is going to be seized and may strip. Plan on having new bleeder screws or even new calipers once you round the old bleeder screws.
I don't believe that is 1A Autos job to begin with. He did mention that if it's an older caliper the bleeder valve could be seized and to be careful, and if need be use the boxed end.
7:32 by NOT closing the bleeder screw between pumps of the brake pedal, AREN'T you DRAWING air BACK into the caliper ? Isn't there some kind of CHECK VALVE that could be used if you don't have a second person at the caliper closing the bleeder screw between pumps of the brake pedal ?
Looks great. Can't wait to try it on mine. However, seems that once the bleeder screw is tight again, instead of having to worry about pinching off the tubing to prevent oil going everywhere, perhaps lowering the bottle well below the screw first would be the best bet, as gravity is then working in your favor.
@@BubbaGumpShrimpss don't loosen the bleeder screw too much. A quarter turn is all you need. Too much will make it leak out from the threads and possibly allow air to get in. However, you can put a layer of Teflon tape on the threads to make a good seal, remove the bleeder, apply the tape and thread it back into the caliper
I greatly appreciate your video. Out of all the videos on here, yours was the best one. I just finished a rear brake job on my 06 HHR and it was a horrible experience. I don't ever want to go through that ever again. The worst part were the main springs. Took two days to finish. Thank you for all your help!
They do if you hit 'em with a shot of PB Blaster twice a couple of days before you try to bleed the brakes. And this method works like a champ, especially if you have the bottle above the bleed valve; every bleeder procedure I've seen before had it below the bleed valve and has been a royal PITA to do. And get yourself a large hemostat to pinch off the hose an inch or so above the bleed valve.
2:43 you put the cap back onto the Master Cylinder not only to keep dirt from getting into the master cylinder but MORE IMPORTANTLY so that when you press on the brake pedal you don't BLOW brake fluid ALL OVER THE PLACE which will happen if you don't put the cap back onto the master cylinder.
For this method to work, The hose need to point up then down to prevent the fluid and air from returning back to the caliper. You did that in the video but failed to mention this important step. Good job though
@@TN-bm6dh bleeder valve is NOT a check valve (one way out). Though there are special AFTERMARKET bleeder valves that are one way out; i think they are called speed bleeders or something similar.
Well unless you are holding your bottle even with the bleeder valve while the drain hose is attached you should be ok. This is simple physics. One end of the hose needs to be pointing g down the other end pointing up. Should have no issues with this process.
Question: since brakes are generally power-assisted, I wonder if the engine has to be running when "pumping the brakes"? Thank you for clarifying. 2022/08/18. Ontario, Canada.
I love it! What a great way to bleed brakes. No mess at all...I've done it many times but it always leaves a mess all over and a sore throat. Sore throat you ask? Yep, that comes from yelling back and forth to the other person in drive seat as to when to press down pedal and/or allow it to come back up. :)
Lol I used to yell at my wife you sure your foots all the way down n she yells back yea so then I’d open it and close it but now thanks to this video ima try it by myself.
Love the video but I don't get it. Why do you need to fill the waste bottle with brake fluid. 1. When you attach the hose to the bleeder screw it has air in the hose anyway. 2. When you pump the brakes, all of the air is being forced out anyway. 3. If the argument is that brake fluid will get sucked back from the bottle instead of air, then you likely have air coming in first from the hose anyway (see #1) and then #2 will happen anyway, and also if this is the 2nd brake like you are doing, you are sucking back in old brake fluid if there is a large amount of backflow.
i use a little longer hose on the right side and left side so i can actually see when the bubbles stop while looking out the open driver/passenger doors
i have made one of these in the past with a magnet attached to the side of bottle to hold to frame. I also use a couple of folding make up mirrors so i can watch the fluid/bottle from in the car so you dont have to keep getting out to check..works great
So basically all he’s doing is stepping on the pedal letting all the air bubbles out of the system. Than when it’s clear he tightens the bleeder valve and makes sure the reservoir is full?
Great video. Suggestion: before starting the process go around first and make sure each bleeder valve is loose enough to be opened once you get to it... and to make sure the wrench size is correct for each valve (believe it or not the size is not always standard especially if a non OEM brake part had ever been installed). If one or all are not easily opened you can do what’s necessary to free up the valves, before starting the process with the bottle.
I was trying to do it with a wrench and almost stripped the valve just because I didn't want to take the tire off. I used a socket with ratchet to loosen them before completely using a wrench.
This is a great suggestion. I just did the brakes on my Miata and I checked the bleeders first. 3 of them broke off like they were made out of plastic!
I only do the brake I'm working on. The banjo fitting is only disconnected for less than a minute so I don't see how air can migrate back thru the whole system.
I’m debating between A coke plastic bottle Or A jarrito de tamarindo plastic bottle . 😊 I’ll have to do this procedure in my O1 WJ 4.O L . But got to spray WD 40 first to the brake bleeders .
Absolutely phenomenal tutorial. Things to help note for newbies (that I had to learn via the school of hard knocks) are: 1) Make sure the container with your clean brake fluid is ABOVE the brake bleeder valve. This ensures that you're not just dumping in a ton of liquid, and that air is for certain being released. 2) Gotta gotta gotta make sure that master cylinder cap is on and SCREWED ON (unlike other styles of brake bleeding that take it off or rest it on the top). 3) Some brake fluid is gonna fill into the container. I'm not 100% sure this isn't my own personal error, but I can also see fluid flowing into our mechanic's bottle as seen in this video, so I'm assuming that is to be expected. If you've got old, dirty brake fluid in there that you're bleeding, it'll contaminate the new brake fluid. This is really just best for air, at least in my experience/opinion. Of course if any old pros or mechanics have corrections for an apprentice like me I'd love to hear them. Thanks so much to all you at 1A Auto for your supremely helpful and informative videos!
Great! Nice work guys. Just what I needed, especially since my friends are all rich and just take their cars to the shop when they need brake work. Can't get them to help me bleed my brakes. Lol.
How u do this bleeding thing on older small '07 Toyota Corolla w frt disc but rear Drum brakes ??? (no ABS no ABS ) So how u do bleed rear drums ??? rear drums. on the rear drums ? 15" wheels/rims.. sits outside no garage.. like most people Toyota '07 Corolla 155,000 miles - got used, me am 3rd owner... no clue what if how was really maintained before me. ( but overall good shape decent allaround) it's small car... compared to this big lug in vid Live in Boston rust belt, freezing cold snow slush winters.. ok? ok Car sits alot not drive everyday This past week not drive it 5 days bc so hott humid weather July been 95-98'F hot hot. ** [[ Car sat for 5 days... My left rear drum blew 1 shoe pad worn fell off inside drum cover seems like (defective?) but was old rusty. ( car brakes been prior this ok like normal but always been lil spongy but work ok.. drive car eazzy like grandmamoses) So..Going only slow 25mph side street at nite lil cooler out.. touched brakes slow down at yellow traffic lite.. suddenly hear really quick loud zingg snapp sound... then screaming LOUD banshee screech like for8sec.. and car slowed suddenly . . like rear wheels dragging .. pulled over.. Left rear wheel rim pretty hot heated up.. but not right rear. Drive half mile tp buddymechanic his hse.. jack up.. try spin wheels. Left is stuck not spin at all.. right rear ok spins. Have to wd40 all 5 lugs both rear wheels... hard get off just the wheels. Then gotta slamm slam longhndl sledgehammer to drum covers 800x to get off. 3 hours later.. Find Left rear w worn piece drum shoe pad falls out w drum cover to ground. Right rear drumcover hard hard to get off.. but shoes pads cyl all look ok intact. Right ok.. bu Left rear fcckkdUp...]] ** wD40 is great lifesaver get rusty lugnuts drum cover off. omg great stuff.. works. So what was that huge scary screammming sound noise? Never heard experienced this in 40yrs driving different cars some old, new, rentals etc. My cars mostly older rusty small cars. What was that ? What happened? What caused this ? Today just had cert mechanic at decent reputable busy svc repair place..(I know owner 40yrs in biz.) the brake mechanic Ted removed and replaced both Left Right rear whole drum assembly w new parts.. and did new Wagner drum shoes.. but kept same drum cover was in ok decent shape . ( very hard to get parts tooo... Remember this!! esp now!! supplychain bullshitzz) He did not bleed brakes or system after installing. I did not see him even pop the hood check fluid levels once... (but I might have missed that). I asked him - Do ya need bleed brakes? he mumbles "no.. will adjust after driving.. self adjust." ( i sorta agree drums will selfadjust? I guess w lil cyl screw and stupid springs in drum assembly) ( kinda believe sorta trust? this guy has lot experience knows brakes fix lot of cars .. pretty good niceguy.. owner knows likes him) He took car for spin test drive it. says ok.. if any probs " just bring back can adjust" ... me ok. BUT... brake pedal still lil too mushy for me. .travels too long still like has done for most past 3yrs. makes me nervous. I want pedal solid hard tight, couple inches travel only at most ( like new again). is it possible? What is wrong ? Will bleeding help this ? Flush out put in all brand new brake fluid? I watch care maintain car good for 3yrs now. Brake fluid been ok looks clear clean at max line mark on white top lil reservoir. ( Corolla '07 kinda dbl reservoir system w lil one above bigger reservoir below it) Gonna take it back have Ted check it again .. this succks I saw him on the new parts careful adjust the both rear drum cylinder screw adjuster thingy for cylinder/ spring crap. ohh This cost me $365 for this rear drum parts/ labor .. thot was decent price. ( kinda expected cost more like $400-500) so good price. Anyhow... fckkkn drums SUCKKK really.. too much crap parts mechanical shittzz hard to do pia pia need muscle, pliers etc etc. Old ancient tech Disc brakes ONLY way to go !!! Ted, most mechanics agree too. Wish I had on all 4 wheels. pss.. Rust suckks such a killer. .ask me I know 5 cars lifetime.. eust is loving me talented monster..never stops. just suckkkks. Car fixing diy is whole diff life up NorthrustLand. Help pls .. thx
Nice. I was using another person to help me get finished faster the last time and there seemed to be a problem. You never really know what the other person is doing if you can't see it. I honestly prefer to do everything myself. It may take longer, but at least I know it's being done right if everything rests on me. This will help me work alone and be thorough.
Great instruction but 👎 because too many commercials!! The entire video is an instructional advertisement for 1A Auto. But 1st they make an extra fraction of a penny by showing us 3rd party ads. Then when instructional advertisement starts we're held hostage for 1 minute of generic ad for 1A Auto. Then the great instruction FINALLY begins.... only to be interrupted by yet another 3rd party ad so 1A Auto can make another fraction of a penny. Ever notice how you'll be watching a TV commercial for Coke and then the Coke ad will be interrupted by an ad for a different product? Me either.
I’ve seen it where a person cracks open the bleeder valve for a second or two has the helper pump and hold the brake , then they close the valve and then the helper released the brake. This method does not require the closing and opening of the valve many times as I’ve seen before . Please advise why others do it in the aforementioned method
cool idea, I'm am curious if this flushes the abs module? I had to replace the abs pump to master cylinder and have read you need a scanner to activate the abs system purge properly
Spray the bleeder screw with good penetrating oil the day before and when ready to do the work...first loosen the screw with a six point socket, then proceed as normal. Also actually having a protective cap on the screw will limit rust to the outside
1A Auto Parts should show professional tools to be use when doing a job. A standard 2 sided wrench is NOT the proper tool to use on brake jobs. Please show the right tools to use. Nice job though.
Very important to notice that he set the bottle above the height of the bleeder valve. I had mine sitting on the garage floor and went through 2 large bottles of fluid before I figured it out.
I usually put that bottle out it, then pump the brakes a few times, put a stick between the brake pedal and steering wheel, walk around and crack the bleeder till air/fluid stop moving, close the valve pump the pedal a bit more and repeat till no air.
Is brake fluid and steering fluid pretty much same thing or interchangeable ( sorta) ? Both look clear similar and pour and feel slippery same. So ? Can you use brake fluid ( in a pinch) for steering fluid ? I would not risk it other way around and use other for the brakes.. for sure. But what if pulled made a bozobonehead move and added lil of one or other into other during a small fillup topoff ? small amount let's say.? Gonna hurt or danger or harm really? today everything so expensive... both cost good amt of $ .. so.
1A Auto your videos are literally the ones I always watch now whenever I have a doubt or want to figure out a different solution to making repairs. Seeing that I live pretty remote having friends over to help is pretty much not gonna happen; this video gave me a solution to my brake problems! Thanks
Thank you, 1A Auto, your video helped me to do a one man brake bleeding. I would recommend, instead of pinching the tube after finishing, if you lower the bottle below the bleeder valve, all the excess fluid will drain back into the bottle.
@@Juan2011Strong Off. With the car running, the brake booster will be active, and you'll have crazy pressure in the lines when you step on the brake pedal. You'll shoot the hose off the bleeder valve and spray brake fluid everywhere on the first press.
my brakes squuek a bit i was thinking i might need new brake pads..i just got them done last year but the guy mightve used shitty low budget pads its been 12k kilometers they should be good for longer than that i was just wondering do you need to bleed them if youre just changing the brake pads?
1aauto is awesome 😎 I just used this method on my 03 Ram 1500 after replacing a brake line while doing a full suspension job. I hate brake bleeding but I love this method!!
Well, I made the one-man bleeding bottle this afternoon and replaced the rear calipers, rotors, and pads on my 2004 Jetta TDI wagon. The one-man bleeding bottle works like a champ. I'll keep it in my shop for the next brake job. Thanks for the great idea. It really works great!
@@anowzanaw879 you hold the pedal so air does not come back in. With this method, it's drawing fluid in from the bottle so no need to hold pedal. Make sense?
couple things: 1) make sure to suck the old fluid out of reservoir before pouring new one (turkey baster, or large syringe), 2) you don't need to take wheels off on most cars to access the bleeder. I just roll my car on top off a ramp and do 2 wheels at a time - much faster. Some car (like Prius) has special mode to bleed rear wheel (electronic control motor pump), some car take DOT 4 (like BMW). 3) before removing the hose, make the tube/Drain bottle go BELOW so when you squeeze tube out you get gravity to self draining to the bottle instead of making a mess. 4) use a clear bottle/hose so you can see dirty fluid/particles (sign of maybe bigger problem). Also I don't get why you put new fluid in the bottle - with the hose going up from the screw, any air bubble will move up and not get sucked back down when you release the pedal (which tends to be a lot less than push anyway) beside the tube will eventually fill but doesn't need to and doesn't start that way anyway...
Out in the ether- "Can you just remove the old fluid from the reservoir with a turkey baster ( and "then" put in new fluid) and call it good, or is it "absolutely" necessary to bleed the whole system?
+chewpaeng12 Thanks for checking us out! The vehicle should not be running when pumping the brakes. Please let us know if you have any further questions, thank you.
"Hazard Waste" , maybe Walmart, but not Napa ( If they won't take the old oil I won't buy it from them anymore). Walmart even replaced my car battery that was beyond the warranty ( with me whining a little- I love Walmart)
Just did this on my 2014 Kia Soul. I did have to start & idle my engine to do the brake pedal pumping. It would only pump maybe 1 time each interval otherwise
+@eviachemutai We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Just tried your method here today on a 2003 S10 front brake disc brake calipers and it worked like a charm! Thank you very much for sharing this idea. I used one of my lorex wireless cameras to keep an eye on the bottle while I pumped the brakes.
Some say that pushing the brake pedal all the way to the floor can damage the seals in the master cylinder around the piston rod because it is traveling past the point of normal stop, and this could cause abrasion of corrosion around the piston rod against the seals. Will this technique still work if you only partially depress the pedal to the point of its normal travel rather than all the way to the floor, or if you don't press it all the way to the floor with the tube not completely fill with fluid such that on the upstroke for a partial pedal depress, the air in the tube will get sucked back in?
Good video. But am I the only guy thinking that the frame of this truck needs some lovin? That thing needs to be wire wheeled and painted! Or hit it with some fluid film to slow that rust!
+Blue04Z71 Thank you for watching. Being located in New England takes it's toll on a lot of vehicles, and we do recommend having a coating to protect the frame. 1aauto.com
Ya know after looking at all Chevy's make and models from underneath I ask myself today why did I ever like a Chevy in the first place.rust buckets and you can count on that one.
Personally I would not reuse any fluid that has come out of the bleeder valve. Though it may look clean and clear there is always some amount of trash in the expelled fluid. DOT fluid is not expensive. It is well worth the comfort in my mind to only add brand new fluid to your reservoir. Im not a mechanic or even good at working on cars this is just my opinion.
