You are not supposed to touch the metal with bare hands once you have degreased it cleaned it, oil from your fingers will cause the blue to be blotchy and it will not even out...
always wipe down with oil once finished to stop the bluing process to avoid deep corrosion, what also helps is heating up your metal with a hair dryer to open up the pores of the metal for a deeper blue.
When I blue firearms, I wear gloves and use acetone to de-grease the parts. I have found break cleaner leaves a film. And when applying the solution I use facial pads and apply the blue in even strokes so you don't get any runs on the metal.
Recommend pouring it into separate container using rubber gloves and spraying some type of penetrating oil on it when you are done to stop it from rusting
Use a new sponge. It applies much better and evenly. It comes out blauchy with tips. But oddly, it ends up even and clean as you wipe it down light with Scotch Brite., between coats. Just beware, it takes several coats if you're down to bare metal!! It's actually a lot of wiping and cleaning between coats. It's still a lot of work. I respect guys who do this for a living. It's very tedious work.
i know its old video and ill bet some1 else has already told but still tell that ya should pour that liquid another container that much what will need and were ya dip ur applicator, it can ruin whole liquid if ya use it straight on bottle and should use gloves to avoid fingerprints etc, but good video, i have plans to blue my winchester 1300.
I'm glad this worked for you. I attempted with perma blue and 0 results on a stainless barrel on my 9mm and on my knife. 0 results by following the instructions.....
i have found that pouring the whole bottle in a glass sauce pot, warming the bluing liquid up (not hot) and just lay each item in it for a few minutes gives a super blue/black finish. Use caution, wear gloves and eye protection and gently pull the parts back out with a piece of wire and then dip them into very warm soapy water (dawn liquid) to dilute the salts immediately.
Advice for bluing, wear gloves. The oil on your fingers will fuck up the finish. Use a paint brush or large cotton applicator. Not small que tips unless getting in tight spaces. When you're finished wash it with soap and water so it doesn't turn into a pile of rust.
I am surprised you got such a nice blue job after you touched everything with your hands!! You always wear gloves and never touch a metal gun part you are going to blue with your bare hands and fingers! GEEZZZZZZZZ!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The blotchy stuff you had was due to touching it with your bare hands!! After cleaning what you are about to blue use Acetone to remove anything that might interfere with the bluing! Acetone leaves no residue and dries so fast you don't have to wipe it down after use! And the best way to apply this bluing would be to fill a canister up with the bluing solution, Requires a lot of Super Blue, and dipping it in the solution, and letting it sit for about 30 seconds and then rinsing it in hot water. If you only had the small bottle of Super Blue You could wear gloves and put a lot on a paper towel and rub it on the part really quickly and then sit for 30 seconds and rinse in HOT Water. One last note about bluing. If you want a really shinny part, polish it to a mirror finish before bluing!!
Jon Brown I doubt if you can find any, however when I made that statement two months ago they were in abundance. It is amazing how quickly things can change.
Use 000 steel wool. Yours looked a bit course for what your doing. Get a steel wool with the most amount of "0"s on the package. I clean some of my spent brass when reloading if I have powder burns on my brass. 000 works great.
loop a wire hanger through the barrel without touching the surface than dip it in the blue so it will have a even coat, sand if necessary, then redo the process until you get the look you want.🤔
Use rubber gloves, if you've touched the barrel bare handed it’s no longer clean, and never dip a swap or brush into the container, pour into a small dish then get rid of the remainder.
Never use dish washing soap to clean the steel part as most will have lanolin and other chemicals for skin softening. Like others say never touch it with your bare hands at any time. Pour enough bluing out of the bottle to use at a time and do not return it so the bottle is not contaminated. Actually the best I ever got on a gun part was using browning on a black powder Kentucky pistol. The rife I blues as a kid is still in good shape today. Nice video of what you did and if you are happy with it since you did it then all is good.
I used super blue on my Rock Island Armory m 206, and was equally impressed with it. I also cleaned it with brake cleaner first, and applied it with a Q tip. If you wipe the gun down afterwards with a light coat of gun oil, it'll look even better. Amazing stuff.
I did try to cold blue couple of nuts, after a while they got covered by a thin layer of rust, which goes with a wipe. Do you have any idea why this is happening?
Pour some into a small cup, because you'll ruin the remainder of the bottle by dipping back into the bottle, use cotton balls. And polish it with xxx or xxxx steel wool, itll come out alot better.
Je conseille vivement d'utiliser des gants de protection déjà pour sa santé et de plus pour éviter de déposer sur le métal des empreintes grasses de ces doigts !
Interesting but was anyone else absolutely cringing when he started applying without gloves? And a loose hanging shirt? And no safety goggles? Then the barrel is so not secured to his makeshift loose fitting pin apparatus? Then the cat?! My stomach was in my throat as I expected the worst. WOW. Just a few simple precautions could have made this so much safer. I'm glad nothing bad happened but that wet barrel tipping off that sketchy pin set up as it flings a drop into this guy's eye? Yeah, that's what I'm saying.
Next time...clean with acetone...wear gloves..do not touch the metal...use a sponge brush..blue, rinse and blue till you get the darkness you want..then NO steel wool!!!...soak in oil for a couple of hours..all that blotchy stuff will disappear.
1) Name the Cat Buddy! 2) clean the part with isopropyl alcohol, wear neoprene gloves, warm part with heat gun, then apply. Wipe down, rinse in cold water, buff it down with a cotton white tee shirt. And repeat.
Pour the liquid into a small plastic container so you don't contaminate the rest of the liquid, Ppe is very important when using any chemical, degrease with acetone and try brushing on evenly in one direction.
I would think a cotton ball would work better for a applicator & also handle it with gloves as to not get oil from your bare hands. But even so it did work out ok. The only thing about that Cold blue, it wears off easily. But you can touch it up easy. It just not a long lasting finish as Hot blue.
I'm not being judgmental, cause you did a good job. I would just pour a little Super-Blue in a bottle cap to keep from contaminating the whole bottle from dipping the swab from the bottle to the barrel & back again.
You don't want to touch the barrel with your bare hands after cleaning you could get uneven bluing from the oil in your fingers and dipping a q-tip in the bottle will contaminate the bluing solution making it go bad quicker.
Came out pretty decent for the first time. I would ware gloves both to protect your hand and to avoid adding finger grease/sweat to the barrel, but it looks good.
If you clean the surface of whatever your bluing wear gloves because the oils from your hands will get on the gun and cause the blue not to take as good , it turned out pretty cool
That came out quite nice. I used a similar product from Brownells called Oxpho-Blue to reblue an old Stevens single shot .22 rifle. I just used a small cotton rag cut from a tee shirt to apply it. It looks to be an identical product and it's surprisingly durable, too. My nephew used the rifle to hunt squirrels & grouse, and it still looks as good as it did when I reblued it. I'd only be concerned about holster wear with a pistol, but a quick touchup would take care of that. I'd love to see an update sometime & let us know how it holds up.
Please don't let it walk around on the used q-tips with the caustic bluing kn them. And, yes, the video is better due to the cat. And, yes, a broader applicator (or dip the whole thing) would give a better result.
I have found that the streaking can be completely avoided by dissolving the gun blue in water to make a bath. That allows you to completely submerge the part in the solution, and makes the process slower and more controllable. For a part this large though, you really want to is something other than cold blue. Rust blue is pretty easy and safe to do.
@Hewhoremains420 Yes it does work with cold blue. I dont have a specific formula for how much to add to the water bath. Add about as much as you would expect to use if you were applying it directly to the metal - diluting it with water just makes it turn out more even. The reason I wouldn't want to use cold blue on a large part is because it's not real bluing, and is only really intended for touch-ups. It has almost no resistance to wear.
