Al, you're the best. First time engine assembler here. Your videos have been invaluable to me as I plan and prepare to build. More people should be watching your channel. Thanks so much for everything you share and all you do.
Well I build engines for what they are being used for. I build my 360 for my '79 Dodge because it was a gutless dead dog. I wanted the cam to come to life earlier for better low end torque. Now me building my '65 383 to be a street rod loud and fun. To me blue printing is writing down all before and after measurements for everything.
Awesome Video...Thanks for your time and effort. I'm about to start rebuilding my 409 and have tried to make a plan as you describe. Checking your list against mine will help fill in some Gaps.
First of all. I enjoy watching your videos. You are very knowledgeable and detailed in what you present. I would like to see a comparison of a dry sump oil system compared to a wet sump system on the same engine with no other changes. Just curious as to horsepower gains.
Thanks Gary, good question. I am sure the dry sump would be better but I don't know how much. That would be a difficult test as the dry sump engines also have internal differences. I will keep it in mind if i ever get an opportunity. AG
I dont do alot of the things u point to here. I can't. If I did it like that I'd never have anything. But one point you made I think is highly important & a great thing to do for yourself & your machine shop! You said don't rely on verbal instructions to your machinists, have instructions written down!!! That could have saved me some aggravation on 390 build! I had the build planned out & needed the block decked. I had cometic head gaskets already bought. They are pricey! I needed the piston to remain .010 below deck for the perfect quench! I sat down & explained it to my machinists. When it was dun I went to pick it up & he had zero decked it & without a piston so when assembled the piston actually came out of the block by .005!! I was angry! We can't put metal back on! Why didn't you call me?? He said he didn't remember talking about it!!! It all worked out in the end & is still a good running 390. And I still have cometic head gaskets for my next 390. 🙃
Thank you for this, Alan. Nice overview of an engine build from planning and preparation through actual assembly. I don't recall anyone else on RU-vid reviewing and explaining the process in such a detailed and methodical manner. And with a screenshot outline included! Of course, as Alan indicates, specific clearances, tolerances, torque values, and other misc. specifications will vary from engine to engine due to manufacturer and application. Check with Factory or well-known Engine Manuals before and during assy. Use caution even with these manuals as printing errors do exist. Double and triple-check the values and cross-check to confirm. Performance engines are almost always built to the looser side of tolerances indicated in these manuals. In most cases, for most popular engines, guides do exist for higher-performance blueprinting builds and info. there will vary from Original Factory-type manuals. Cross-reference and check information found there also. Very nice job Alan. Thank you again for this.
Great stuff as usual. Just a note: If using a distributor and drill to prime an oil pump make sure you remove the drive gear. On mine I also knocked the advance mechanism off and brazed in a rod for the drill to grab. Cheap and effective, another strange looking tool to hang on the wall. (-: Surprising how much power is consumed just feeding oil.
Question. On the main bores on a aluminum block & aluminum rod big end bore should you have tighter tolerances because the aluminum expands a couple thousand from room temperature up to 200° compared to iron block.
Another please if you could because I can't find it anywhere. Can you do a video on how to use a degreed cam gear. Rather than off set key ways or inserts. It's also getting harder to find a machine shop. The machine I used for my 383 was shocked. I wanted the spring height at 277. He told me they went on like they were made for the engine. Well they are I use only Mopar Performance stuff like cam and matching springs. Which I find lots don't do they put in a big cam and not the springs that should go with it.
Thanks Jerry. I did make a video about advancing the cam on the dyno. I used a Cloyes adjustable cam gear. please check it out and let me know if that is what you were looking for.AG
You say "build the motor to tight tolerances" I would probably reword that to be specific dimensions that are often looser than minimum clearances specified in the range of acceptable tolerances the one exception I would say is an aluminum engine block where I always tighten up my main bearing clearances generally 0.0005-0.0008 tighter than I want to see in an aluminum block. One other thought, many people don't understand that the machine shop might have as good and possibly even better pricing than major retailers, it's often best to find a quality machine shop and consider letting them source the parts for you. I find it a challenge to find quality engine shops now that I moved away from my home that had several race tracks within 150miles of my home.
Thanks for your comment EJ. A tolerance and clearance are two different things. A clearance is the space or distance between a shaft and bearing. A tolerance is the allowable range of clearances. AG
