I know how dedicated I am. I'm even more sure of how dedicated you are. It's very reassuring for me to see someone else coming to the same conclusions about plastering, because often people question you and you're not really sure or can feel over powered by a certain kind of customer. Thankyou.
Great job. I once did this by temporarily screwing a couple of wood boards in a stairstep configuration to get started, then just a single wood board over the edge of the last piece I installed from there on. The overhang was then used to prop up one side of the new piece while I lifted the other side. I didn't think much about it at the time, but doing this kind of work would give me nightmares now, knowing what just one screw or nail could do if it pierces a wire. Worse yet, it's now legal in many parts of the USA to run a flexible gas line through a wall or ceiling. If I had to do something like this today, I'd look into one of those cameras that are supposed to show what's going on under the existing layers; one ad even claimed that you could see a mouse crawling around inside the wall.
In the past my wife and I used used brooms 😮. I'm now using a plasterboard lifter which is a dream and when I'm done with ceilings, I'll sell it. My latest job is overboarding a water damaged ceiling. I've cut away and boarded the warped area, and about to start overboarding.the whole ceiling. You've said to stagger the joints of new boards (of course) but you didn't say anything about overboarding the existing joints which I'd have thought was good practice. Another thing, I once used 2400mm boards which were difficult to work with because of the weight and size and a plasterer recommended I sticm to 1800mm boards for ceilings. By the way, the bedroom ceiling joists on the 60's house I'm working on are 420mm centre to centre.
I just can't help myself, I gotta put a few slim beads of expanding foam across the boards, especially along the joints, if you have any big dips, you can put foam in that area and using a straight edge to guide, just screw up just enough to level the board where the dip is, 20 mins later tighten up screws to pull the heads into the board, the board will not pull up into the dip, easiest way to even out the worst parts of some ceilings.
Great video as always,for me and especially when the rooms empty,I use a plasterboard lifter,then 2 props to hold in place when I move the lifter to screw boards.
Hi mate, thankyou for your awesome video's. I did this last year but I tuck the old ceiling down, there was to much dust and dirt in there but now I know it's nice and clean for the next 50 odd years. Would you not recommended taking the old ceiling down to take out the old dust/dirt?
Hi Blaine, nice job as always mate, just out of interest do you come across old lath and lime plaster at all? If so could you show us your methods of what you would recommend on how to deal with it. 👍🏻
If it is a living room ceiling or such like and perhaps has a nice plaster coving round then it could be possible to repair as long as a good percentage of the plaster is still reasonably sound. First go round taping the ceiling to assess loose areas and mark them. Then score the ceiling at these lines and carefully remove the loose, chamfering the exposed old plaster edge so that when you put on the new bonding it helps support the edge of the old. Give the lathes a good coat of pva then fill in with bonding coat and level off.( put plenty on so it goes over the lathes and grips on the top face) When this has set give the whole ceiling a coat of PVA that is very strong ..3/1 or stronger..(it wants to feel very sticky to touch). When dry you will see cracks every where so scrim them all but don't overlap. It is then ready to skim. Do not put a second coat of pva on as some would say as I find this makes the plaster go off too quickly.
Hi Blaine I enjoyed your videos I would recommend you to buy a Hilti SD 5000-A22 Cordless Drywall Screwdriver & SMD 57. This would be so much easier for you so you won’t have to use your Combi drill.
Thanks mate! Yeah they are amazing aren’t them!! I’ll be honest pal, I do often do plasterboarding - it’s rare actually but I can see why they are needed if your a Tacker.
Staggering the boards is very important and neglected by a lot of people. You can buy special screwdriver bits that cam out when the screw is flush so you don't break through the paper with the screw head. These are a godsend when dry lining.
Cheers for the videos going to attempt a small room. I’m over boarding the ceiling but it needs levelling, it’s uneven by about 3 inches. Can you use board adhesive to level it, then fix with longer screws ? Or is there a better method ?
Got a ceiling to do on my own in the kitchen, wasn't sure how to approach this is perfect, I'm going to baton with I think 25mm then 1st fix feed for lights. Small 12.5 sheets,then scrim tape, cant plaster though someone else will have to do that.
Nice work. What about where the board meets the wall and you don't want to use coving? Is it necessary to cut into the wall first and let the plasterboard sit on top?
Yes it’s fine to over board on lath and plaster but you must finish the ends of the boards half on the ceiling joists not just screwed into the laths ,should imagine 50-65mm drywall screws would be ok.
Question, I'm boarding over polystyrene tiles just because I don't know if they contain asbestos. What size baton should I use, 25mm2 like roofing batons? Im nervous about hitting pipes. what length screw should I use that will fix 12.5 plasterboard but not go through the whole floorboards. And I dont want spots in the kitchen, I want something hung, should I just put up 1 baton in the centre of the ceiling or 2 either side of centre?
Get yourself a voun haus mini work tower mate about £100 on Amazon, it fits in a boot of a car, wish I got one years ago, step ladders are banished now lol
@@PlasteringForBeginners it's better than it looks I was watching Venetian plaster videos and see it on one, no more bending down getting gear out of the bucket, I also do Venetian if you want any tips
On your own use 6x3x9.5mm easier on your body, and easy to stay away from existing joints in original ceiling thus giving better fire protection for the customer
I just make a wooden T prop. It can hold most of the board up no problem. With these adjustable props, the head has such a small area, I’ve had boards crack and drop until everything is tight and in place. Why don’t they make them with larger surface area heads? Definitely no impact driver and a small light screwdriver or dry wall driver is luxury :-)
Can I ask you a question is there a reason why you have to put up a whole board. I often cut them down to to nearly half size. So they meet a joist around half size is there a reason you shouldn't do this surely we just add more scrim tape. I have injured myself several times lifting up hole boards on my own and just felt it wasn't worth the risk anymore . I'm 47 so have to be a bit more careful than you . Are you aware of any reason why putting up half boards and adding more scrim tape as long as they end on joists matters ?
When dealing with half boards. I don't even need to use support. I have noticed in your videos that workflow is something you really understand it's basically what you earn. so is there a reason why it's important to put up whole board and not just half boards which is obviously easier and quicker no jacks and no injuries. I would really appreciate your view on this. I really respect this channel and thats not something I would say about most of the RU-vid plastering channels. You're a great find thank you so much. I've learnt a lot from you even though I've been doing it 20 years. 👍
the board you put in at 6:43 the part to your left dosent look to land on a joist. did it or have you another trick to making sure the seam dosent crack after its plastered. thanks for the vid
It’s hitting the joist pal. But I don’t recommend cheating this - if it’s not in the middle of the joists then it’s not worth fixing. There’s no trick around it unfortunately. Lots of fixing and tight cuts helps with cracking mate...and obviously using scrim tape before Plastering. But that’s it. You can do everything right and it stills cracks, especially for new builds because of the movement in the timber. Hope this helps my friend and thank get watching
You have to be joking! A board lifted costs about £100-150 and makes the job safe, fast and easy. How many accidents did you nearly have getting the boards up?
I’ll be honest, I didn’t know they were that cheap!! I don’t often board to be fair though - I’m mainly a Plasterer so it’s not something i necessarily need. My garage is full enough 😂
Never ever use your head, never ever work on ladders ,use a nail first to hold it up then screw and use 6 by 3 . Just saying been doing this for 50 years and still in one piece.
Great advice but in the real world not practical at all. Most clients are not going to pay for staging when a ladder could be used for example. And I can’t think of any occasion of over boarding where I or a colleague hasn’t used our heads for a brief moment
Hi Blaine, I've got an overboarding technical question if you could try and help please (I'd be very grateful). I can do the ceilings like this, but with the walls there's no studs. The house is ex-council and built in 1973 - the walls are 9mm|22mm|9mm plasterboards sandwiched and bonded together with a T stud configuration top and bottom. My question is how would I fix the new boards to these please? Basically they've wallpapered directly onto the existing plasterboard and it's chewing the boards trying to remove the old wallpaper. Thanks mate
I’ve seen these before in the mother in-laws’ house believe it or not. Sounds crap, but you’ll have to remove the wall paper and Bond the wall flat afterwards. You don’t want to add anymore weight to these walls. Horrible construction. I knocked my mother in laws down and rebuilt them in timber. That’s the best bet but if not, do the first option pal 👍
Very timely, thank you! I have a completely open ceiling I need to board, trouble is it's over 9ft high and apart from the fact I'm only 5'2" I'm not strong enough to lift a whole board myself! Guess I'll have to do it in partial boards. If I halved them, would you recommend halving lengthways or widthways? Or would it be better to, say, do something like ⅓ and ⅔ and stagger those? (Ceiling is 8ft2 X 10ft2)
That's not the easiest way they're all right those ceiling support poles but I find get two pieces of wood, 1st(25mm x 40mm x 80mm) 2nd(25mm x 40mm x 250mm). And make rotating arms drilling into the ceiling frames so that you can slot the board one side, go up the ladder with it, then turn round the other two; get your drill and screws whilst it's suspended there.
@@PlasteringForBeginners about 200 from axminster you'll wonder why you struggled pays for itself just make sure you get the side load one and check the height....and a belt fed screw gun and a big t square and 1 clamp you can cut on the lifter ....
