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Great Job Charlie !! The man who never made a mistake ,never made anything !! Wishing your family and yourself all the best for the future.........Fantastic video, thank you !!
The honesty in your videos is so refreshing and enables others to learn as these are common mistakes we could all easily make Charlie. So much detailed information as well thank you. If I ever earn enough money to purchase my council house I'll be doing something similar. Great work as always mate.
It's so easy to create a RU-vid channel showing off how brilliant and perfectly everything goes so it's hugely refreshing to watch Charlie's open and honest assessments packed full of learnings which will help us all avoid the same mistakes ... spot on, thank you!
much appreciated... your point about why the boards need to be laid good side up was well made, and something that i might otherwise have overlooked. thank you.
22mm mdf floorboards like you used are slowly becoming industry standard on additions, especially commonly used (by me) on loft conversions, using expanding glue to the joist to reduce squeaking
At last a real life loft boarding video! I have a much smaller space to re board next month but I can use 18mm boards as the centres are 450mm wide. Spax screws seem to be the way to go and adhesive for the tongue and groove. Great video, very useful.
Mistakes are how most Diyers learn & thanks to people like you we stand a good chance of not making too many. I have a raised loft floor & increased insulation project coming up so I was interested in seeing this one for any tips. My raised loft floor is only for occasional access & storage so I won't be gluing any boards down in case I need to get them up again in the future to access the 1st floor wiring etc. However, the takeaway from this video for me is that the floor board layout is going to be important. I will be working with a mixture of existing & new T&G chipboard so I need to minimise waste & awkward edge fillers. Keep up the good work.. 👍
I would rather watch you Charlie,Who is honest enough to show your mistakes and what you would do different for another time,Than someone who post's some slick video thinking he is the bees knees.Keep up the great output always very informative
Great stuff as always , I’ve just recently had a concrete garage installed as a workshop/ store it’s 6mx5m . Our original two car garage was turned into a granny annex some 20 years ago . When we decided to get rid of three rotting shed’s we have , I did look into having a proper brick construction put in . Well the cost was absolutely staggering , at least three times the price of the concrete structure . Even the base would have to be done to a higher standard to meet building regs , which a concrete structure does not require not even planning was required . All this leads me to realise if you’re lucky to find a property with an existing building, just how valuable it is and often it doesn’t really reflect in the purchase price of the house . I know you have done lots to your garage , but I wonder if you’ve ever looked what it would cost to replicate it , it might be quite an eye opener . As a point of interest when we converted our garage into a granny flat , it cost £ 20, thousand all in . Just before I retired as an electrical contractor , I worked on a similar project to ours ie existing garage made into a granny annex . The project came in at just under £80 thousand and is actually smaller than ours . Now knowing you I recon when the time comes you will save some serious money Best wishes and kind regards as always . 😀👍👍👍
Another fab video. I can watch your videos all day long. Plain, straight forward explanations. The lighting you used is really good and looks great in the framing. Keep up the good work. 😊👍
I really appreciate it when you go through mistakes. It's so helpful. As I am learning myself, all of DIY is making mistakes and getting over them. Another great video!
Crikey Charlie, so much in here. I was initially moved to comment unfavourably on the mistakes. However, when I reflected on my own sorry progress in so many projects I thought no, the guy's being honest, let him alone. Seriously though, you've covered so much in this post, it's hard to take it all in. Over the years I've whittled down my subs to diy/woodworking chanels as I got overloaded with advice. Charlie DIYte is still there. One of the few.
For the hatch, you could get a couple of handles which you attach via bolts going into threaded inserts. When you're done, you remove the handles and the inserts remain. If you recess the inserts and use shallow headed bolts, you could even leave the bolts in there. You could also just use some webbing screwed into the sides of the hatch which you are able to pull the hatch out with.
Great job, thanks for sharing. Along with your other subscribers, I appreciate the honesty in admitting your mistakes. Too much content on RU-vid gives people the false impression that everything just goes flawlessly first time around. In my opinion, this implied perfection would be rather off-putting for the novice DIYer. Glad you mentioned the funky looking Ryobi track: It was the first thing I wondered about. Evolution actually makes a standard circular saw that runs on Evolution - and, presumably, Makita or Festool tracks.👍
Fantastic, thanks for showing the mistakes too that's so humble of you, much respect for that, and a very enjoyable video, looking forwards to more, all the best to you.
Hi Charlie, great honest video. You make a good point about which way up to lay the flooring, not least because some manufacturers put the print on the reverse side so you do have to read carefully and not lay on autopilot (don’t ask)! The floor also goes together easier when you lay it the right side up as it’s been engineered to be done that way. Great idea about leaving the hatch, to0 marks to your chippy 😀
Joist and noggins! Love this channel. I'm a cyber security consultant by trade but really want to do woodwork and basic DIY. Your channel has helped IMMENSELY! Thanks Charlie!
@Charlie DIYte best around :) Will I ever re-roof my roof myself? No. Will I need to dig a trench for a new cable for charging my car? Heck no. But I'll watch the videos, make notes and enjoy them. Keep up the great stuff, Charlie!
I put the boards the wrong way up too! Im glad im not alone there, i did stagger them but they arent glued. So i can get to services underneath. Im hoping its strong enough. Its just for storage so hopefully its ok
Got a similar space to do in my own garage loft, suffice to say I would have made the same mistakes! Great video with lots of learning points, thanks!! 👍🇬🇧
Adding an expansion joint makes perfect sense, but does anyone know how this is meant to work when there are numerous screws holding down the rest of the floor? It seems the gap would only be able to accommodate expansion from the outermost sheet, leaving the rest without any expansion potential.
@@MrWarfd001 btw wasn’t a criticism of the way Charlie did this. You see this method applied in lots of situations. Totally understand that a fully floating floor wouldn’t be appropriate. Maybe you can ignore expansion here because both materials are wood and would expand similarly.
You're a genius, and we appreciate all the experience you're putting into show on these videos so we don't make mistakes while trying the same work. Thanks for uploading
Just a reminder that the ceiling ties are always in tension and so some way should be found to stop the roof from spreading when you cut one for your hatch. Screws into the end grain is not normally sufficient. Angle brackets each side of the cut joist, bolted through the trimmer should do. Regards Tom (Structural Engineer)
Thanks Tom. I'll also angle bracket the joists down to the wall plate. Pretty sure it's nailed down but won't harm to put extra brackets in. Appreciate the comment 👊
@@CharlieDIYte Sounds good but remember that it is the roof trusses which restrain the top of the garage wall so it is backward to secure the trusses to the wall head expecting the wall to prevent the trusses spreading.
Gantry is great, wondering if I can adopt the approach in my garage loft with gable opening doors. As others have noted, the honesty over the challenges is reflective and useful for the rest of us who are DIY'ers
Once again a timely vid. Had a loft hatch installed by a plumber who needed additional access, and he cut two joists with no reinforcement! So I am looking to add some strength- good to see how you've done it. I have used 22mm caber before and agree it's good stuff.
Nice work. I'm just finishing laying a structural plywood floor as part of a bungalow loft conversion. I've got to sister up rafters onto the ridge RSJ. Insulation is going to be with a product called Actis which I have managed to haggle down to less than Pir board. For a habitable space for part L of UK building regs its great as it expands slightly to fill in between the rafters. I am looking forwards to seeing your StairBox video as I intend to order one. Great content.
Hi Charlie, nice job👍👍 , I did my roof flooring a few years back laid on 3" by 2" lengths of wood as my loft joist are all over the place Hight and distance wise , added leg supports and screwed never bothered with clueing , no need after all the screw are fixed in , not had a issue with separation or splitting
Lovel your honesty Charlie . I must admit I would always make those Mistakes ..🙄 .. Great Tips & advice .. Esp on leaving a 10mm gap . Could u use 18mm OSB board But NOT ....t&g ..(incase I have to get access ) 🤔pipes cables etc ...
Some great tips. Its made me seek answers to two issues i might face building a house. 1. How to support boards on a new house where some of the joists change direction by 90 degrees. 2. Gluing the T&G and the boards to the joists or using green glue tape on top of the joists instead because my floor decking needs installed during the build when no roof is on. I was advised to use minimal nails until the roofs on then screw it all up otherwise water sits in the screw heads and works into the chipboard past the 45 day weather protection. But with minimal screws the boards wont pull down well to the glue so maybe the green glue separation tape would be best.
Thanks. They do a version with polythene film on it for your type of situation - caberdek. That would be ideal. The screw holes are still an issue though. I guess you could tape over them as you say.
@@CharlieDIYte taping over could be a good idea. The tape i referred to was 3mm foam tape by green glue which adheres to the top of the joists and acts as a sound decoupler between the joist and caberdeck.
I’m adding some loft flooring right into the roof corners - will only have boxes stored on them (no one is short enough to stand in these areas!). Anyway thought I’d watch this just to see if I could get any hints or tips. Definitely some food for thought. One idea…your loft hatch. What about a system similar to drain inspection? Sausage shaped holes that T bars fit into? Insert and twist to lock the T bar and lift to lift the hatch?
@Charlie DIYte why don't you put hinges on the loft hatch, we have hinges on our hatch in the house, it's so much easier than having to lift it out every time
We're in the middle of putting down 22 caber on a property renovation and it is good stuff. It is dense and really tonight! Man that glue is sticky, trying to stay off the squeeze out is so difficult 😂
Re the loft hatch I’d be tempted to screw some magnetic material to the areas where you need to pull on and get a strong magnet to give you something to pull on. Think of the magnets that people go magnet fishing with. As you have the hoist means you could use that to pull the hatch up.
As usual, an excellent video, Charlie - so clear and practical. Were I ever to create a YT channel, or even an Insta account, it would be called (with a tip of the knitted beanie to Ernie Wise) something like “Mistakes Wot I have Made”. Akin the film “The Plank” but with far less comedic merit. Looking forward to the Episode In Which Charlie Insulates The Garage Loft. Cheers!
I got some flush handles for a fraction of the cost from Hiatt hardware. They are the same quality and probably the same supplier as Screwfix/Toolstation.
I think the rafters would have been just fine for your hoist - 100Kg is under 16st, or one big bloke. Would be amazed if two rafters (or four if you're bracing across) couldn't handle that.
How is the treadmill on that surface? Does it make a massive noise? Also, how on earth will you cope with the extreme heat? It doesn't look overly insulated in there?
Hi Charlie, Will there be a video on all the steps you took to convert your loft? I’m looking to draw up plans of converting my loft so a video would be incredibly helpful
Have you seen this update ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-q9r4KZSxiRs.html I'll try and do an update in the summer but it won't be complete because this is just a garage loft for now.
I'm here happy I got a fully custom floating shelf rock solid in dot and dab and then I see you making crane solutions that would support Henry the 8th. Nah I've got a bit to go yet 😂
Aren't OSB boards supposed to be better than that type, which is supposed to get damp etc? Thanks for the content, it's really useful for me going into my first owned house and needing to do lots of the work myself. I'm here because of research on this very subject.
You should only use boards which are designed for flooring. I've not seen OSB or MDF certified for flooring. If damp is a concern then you get get waterproof chipboard flooring. I think the only point in gluing to joists is to prevent squeaking.
This may have been mentioned in another comment but how do you do this if there are pipes above the beams? Would you have to make a false floor essentiallt to raise the new floor above to create gaps between pipes and the new floor?
Hey Charlie, how do you handle these miskates emotional and mentally when you make or discover them? Do you get angry and curse, or wallow in self pity, or become moody and short with your family, or shrug it off and chuckle knowing it isn't worth getting upset about?
