How to Break-In a Built Engine PROPERLY 

Interesting to see you guys cut the original break in period in half! Assuming the research had everything to do with that. Great video.

I broke in my stage 2.5 to 1,800 miles this time just because. I also just learned that we have looser tolerances for pistons for higher power so I can hear the piston slap on warm up so that’s normal don’t be scared if you hear it. My STI is on 40 lbs of boost and I finally finished tuning.

man that wrx looks amazing

Great info!

Awesome video Foster!

I found it very helpful as I’m nearing an engine swap on my 2016 wrx. With a 142,000 miles it’s almost that time after I had a cam gear failure With the motor removed to do the repair might as well swap it instead of paying for 2 engine removals

Perfect timing im mid engine build due in about next year of april, really helpful

Looking foward to do this on the new to me 08 sti

Great video :) Looking forward to more info on the built FA24 :)

Was waiting for this vid for a long time have a big Faith jn the fa24 wanna have an fa24 sg9 Forester and a Subaru legacy 3.0r manual specb jdm perfect duo

I've got an engines that run on M5. They get idled up to temp and then start doing full throttle pulls on the dyno.

keep your work

What do you do when it's a race car? I usually install the motor and send it to the dyno.

I have Millers break in oil, But for the first startup I wanna use a mineral oil with ZDDP additive as I will be flushing it out after idling for 5-10 mins. Can I use "MOTUL 3000 4T Plus 10w-40HC-TECH Mineral Engine Oil" for the first 10 mins?

Would this build fit into a GR86 running it NA or with an aftermarket super or turbo charger?

Hey guys does this process apply to brand new cars from the factory too? I'm gonna be taking delivery of a 2024 BRZ soon and I want to treat it right. 🙏

If you follow these steps... how did you fill the cooling system and engine passages with coolant?

Can we have a full overview of all the aesthetic mods on the car 🙏🏼

When can we see dyno results?

Is there a link to the break-in manual for race car setups?

Curious, im build race engines in a different non automotive industry, we always recommend to change spark plus fairly quickly do to metal contamination from break in, do you guys not encounter that issue?

I laugh when I see people taking 1000 miles to break an engine in. Its not the 1980s. The point of breaking in a engine is to wear the piston rings into the bores to create good compression. That's it. It takes approximately 50 miles or an hour of driving. Then you do a oil change and then its tuning/mapping time. My engine builder who has been building engines since the 80s and subaru engines since 2002 has been doing it this way since the beginning.

I can either buy a stock r35 gtr here in my country or a 950hp shortblock build and its hard to choose

Wait!? Wasn’t Foster with SubiSpeed? 🤔

Any plans for an FA24 brz/gr86 built engine?

Curious on the dyne results

Seems like the ticket to engine break-in is drive spirited but stay under 4k rpm and do not go into high boost. Let the engine warm up before going ham. Change the oil early. Simple

It has been 6 months now........... any updates?

How much would something like this cost? I know In the future I will need this.

Please advise. The service that customizes my car recommended me not to warm up the engine. They said that I should start the engine and wait for a maximum of one minute and start driving smoothly. Do you think this makes sense? Because I doubt very much that it can be useful for a new engine.

Could I flat foot prime an Ej?

What year is that Subaru???

Here in the Caribbean we do it different

Wowwww

I have a 2021 WRX that is getting a IAG600 will my shop already know this? They have to dyno tune it because I have other parts on the car, is this alright?

Is there a reason that you guys recommend the oem head gasket for break in? And why does using an alternative void warranty for the block?

You can prelube the filter by holding down the accelerator and Turing the car on.

Cant wait to see what you are able to do with the FA24dit platform. I am ready for a 8.5k ripperrrrrr

Do I really need to do that in highway But manual said 100 mph 4,500 rpm But highway speed 65 mph I am worried getting pulled over by police again

What about motorcycles

Very curious - why would there be metal shavings during the break-in process? Are you saying the engine is supposed to disintegrate a little by design? I thought metal shavings normally happen when you don't change your oil a long time and that friction breaks down the moving parts of the engine.

Foster is with IAG now? Subiespeed must be going down hill.

Damn, that top mount is nearly flat

Do you guys install engines if buy the engine from you guys. And send you my car. I'm in Washington state.

I blew up tons of motors and finally built it correct and i put over 80 thousand miles on the rebuild, just do stuff the right way no shortcuts

That is how a Subaru should look

I was told of a very specific engine break-in process by a nice guy that worked at Toyota on all of their race engines from the 1990's to the time where I met him around 2010. That process is as follows: Mile 0 Break-in oil and new filter. Start the engine and get it to operating temperature. Make sure there are no leaks. Mile 0-500 Break-in oil and new filter. 4000rpm max. No boost. No cruise control. No excessive idling. Change gears every 90 seconds. Engine braking (downshift) whenever possible. Oil consumption will occur. Mile 501-1500 Break-in oil and new filter. 4500rpm max. Minimal boost (1-3psi). No cruise control. No excessive idling. Change gears every 90 seconds. Engine braking (downshift) whenever possible. Oil consumption will occur. Mile 1501-3000 Break-in oil and new filter. 5000rpm max. Minimal boost (4-7psi). No cruise control. No excessive idling. Change gears every 90 seconds. Engine braking (downshift) whenever possible. Oil consumption will occur. Mile 3001 and after Run whichever oil & filter you prefer. I followed this process and my ej255 has been untouched since this process was completed. It has been over 100,000 miles since the time that process was completed and I have no oil consumption issues. I'm running stock boost levels, and it was performed on a OEM complete block with no modifications done - some parts were changed (ARP head studs, Cometic MLS head gaskets, KillerB oil pickup). The Subaru specialist shop that did the engine swap detailed the same process. As per the oil, choose whichever break-in oil you are comfortable with. As per the filter, OEM filters are trash - most of the damage occurs from particles in the 20 micron and smaller range. With that in mind, Royal Purple, AMSOil and the Fram Ultra Synthetic are the best oil filters on the market (unless you opt for a bypass kit). This process was completed on my Toyota Mr2 and it was an incredibly rev happy engine (redline of 7200rpm) and it had no oil consumption issues either. Does this process require an incredible amount of patience? Yes, it absolutely does. Is it worth it? Absolutely!

Someone send this to donut media

Watched 2 seconds of the video and thought to myself. Here I am with a sloppy 1.8t build with questionable tolerance and a gt3076 at 30psi of boost. Bouncing off the Rev limiter anti lagging lighting tires. On a fresh "rebuild" with only 10 minutes of idle time LMAO. It still runs even after I sold it. Like 40k? Since it's slapped together build

only 30 psi fuel 35 is legal

Has this process been validated by an automotive Engineer?

Just drive it as you would lol😅. The break in: seating the rings. Literally can be done in one heat cycle.

Just got my IAG 600 installed! With grimspeed headers. Sounds 🍆💦

FYI, the ONLY part of an engine that "breaks-in" is the piston ring sealing with the bores. Thats it. Vary the load on the first 25 miles and you be good. WIth the piston travel speeds and average hone grit depth, it doesnt take long to seal with rings. Gaskets, seals, valves, bearings, chains, hoses etc do not break-in

from all ive ever heard or did, is to pack your oil pump with Vaseline and to never prefill oil filter on first start up because it can cause the pump to cavate

no way yall back manual? six gears hmmmm? can i stop? mmmmmm?

Dislike button for all the guys who actually know how to properly breakin an engine ->

I read not let the engine idle ,since the first start 20 minutes at 2500 rpms

Nah just drive it