I am currently getting my motor replaced on my M1000RR. Mine did this and I fussed for over a year. It finally dropped a cylinder and BMW is now replacing the motor. Apparently they just dropped an oil consumption bulletin for these bikes. Lucky that’s what helped me because they wanted to blame me.
The manual states that the bike should not be put under full load within the first 1000 kms. This means that your rapid acceleration tip should be used with caution, as to not open throttle too far so that the “refs are chasing the throttle position”. If the bike is pushing full power/torque in the first 1000k, this is not good according to the manufacturer. Since it’s in the manual, you may also face warranty issues if you’re found to be breaking this criteria.
Nice video! I recently purchased a S1000rr 23 model. Done about 150 miles. I experience some strange behaviour. Doesn’t seems smooth on low speed acceleration second gear even first seems jerky and i have the feeling there’s a grinding sound once moving on slower speed.It’s normal or should i call the dealer for a check because doesn’t make me feel good. Speed control on slow speed is horrible 😊
Hand book says not to leave idling for long periods. Also says to start engine and ride away immediately. When running in use twisty hilly roads it says.
Hi, how do I run the M1000rr? if you can make a video exactly as you did on your engine it would be great, meaning to get on the engine and do exactly as you did. thanks
I’ve showed this video to our local bmw dealer and they don’t recommend this. Not sure if it’s a USA to uk thing but they showed me their recommended way of doing it and it’s nothing like this. I’m confused 🤔at least there is a 3 year warranty ! According to our local dealer they say. BMW say max 7000 revs for the first 300 miles then max 9000 revs for 300-600 miles (digitally limited anyway) no full load before the 600 mile service. Vary the conditions I.e twistys, straights, hills, declines etc and use all the gears.
The people at the dealership change oil most days. Any serious engine issues are shipped to bmw for diagnoses. The mechanics at the dealers are not certified to do anything but read the manual and that’s what they read back to you.
@@BT_Moto the mechanics at our local bmw dealership actually co-work for bmw tyco raceteam in the uk in bsb and as I just ordered an M1000rr I showed them your video to confirm and after watching it they told me not to do that as a break in recommendation. I’m not trolling you. Honestly feeding back what they said.
@@BT_Moto I believe you. I only found your channel recently after looking for m1000rr content and found your video interesting and brought it up with a few of the guys I know at this dealership with a lot of experience. I’ve heard other people say that the first 100 miles is the most critical for any engine.
Great tip, check Marcel Irnie, superbike racer he has a great video breaking in an s1000rr. He gets the limiter removed straight away and then goes through the warm ups pulls heat soak etc its a very good video for people that don't know. It's great your taking time out to let people know, I think this is why there are some issues as you just stated with oil burning. Great info.
Am getting my M1000XR tomorrow and I have asked the dealer to level the bike and heat the engine for one hour then shut it off tell next day to ride it with the gradual increase and decrease the throttle for 15 min then let it cool for 15 min then repeat the process Would this ok
@@MAZENBIRA heat cycling is good but also the bike needs to be ridden. Warm up, ride, shut off, repeat. Vary loads and RPM’s while riding. Progressively work your way up to the stock 9000 RPM limiter. Do not just cruise the bike at a static RPM or just idle for a long time.
If my 2020 s1000rr just needs a new dash does it need to be matching with the ecu, key, ignition etc for it to work? Or can I just connect a used dash and call it a day?
That's the "M" bike and it comes with the Akrapovic exhaust system. Of course it has California EPA emissions stuff on it. If your trying to track the bike there are full systems you can buy as well as headers (that include link pipes) you can purchase and keep the original exhaust. But you need to get the fuel system flashed and possibly replace the air filter (but I hear the stock air filter on the M bikes is actually better)
Thanks for sharing because a lot of people that don't understand would think that babying a motor would be protecting your investment when in all honesty they are engineered to have so many heat cycles and have to be (broke in)! Great details and thorough. IM STILL WAITING ON MY 2021 M1000RR TO ARRIVE SO I CANT WAIT TO GET A FLASH. IM NERVOUS IF THE AIRBOX IS GOING TO SLOW DOWN STAGE 1&2 COMING OUT.
I like all this, except the warm up. This is a big power to weight ratio vehicle. I believe it is better to allow oil to the head, then operate at low throttle low gears while warming up to keep pressure on bearing surfaces. Either is better than throttling a cold engine
From KLR65Os to R1s, I've always broken in new bikes like this while changing the oil frequently. The KLR was notorious for burning oil but mine never did. Not a single drop. My guess why some manufacturers say to baby the bike during break in is to limit potential lawsuits from riders if they get in trouble with Johnny Law or if they crash. Only guessing, though.
