The only additional step I'd add it to brake clean the caliper before fitting new pads, plus I also put a thin layer of lubricant between the shims, pads and pistons just to eliminate any noise. Love this setup though very easy to get the job done quickly!
Good call out on the brake parts cleaner. It’s like muscle memory for me, so I forgot to call it out. Always clean your brake components, new or old if you are swapping. I disagree on the lubricant between the shims and pistons though. On a fixed caliper setup like in the video, the pads slide back and forth on the edges where I show you to apply the lubricant. Adding additional lubricant to the back side of the pads or shims doesn’t do anything for sound, and only adds additional points for brake dust, grit and grime to build up causing an unnecessary amount of grease to build up. Over time that added grime can cause an imbalance and vibration, which then actually causes more noise. On a floating caliper setup (like to typically find on just about every car/truck/suv) it makes more sense because the entire caliper floats to make contact with the rotor, and is usually prone to more noise without lubricating the back of the pad. For what it’s worth, I’ve never lubricated the back of the pads or shims on a fixed caliper setup and the only time I’ve ever had noise was with a Hawk DTC-60 pad, and that was from the compound, not your typical brake pad squeal which is caused by vibration.
@@FollowMyLine17 yes, sir, on the floating calipers lubrication is requested by service manuals on the edges on the pads and between the pad and shim. The back of the shims facing pistons shall not be lubricated. At least on the Japan cars. And thank you for the great video guide!
Thank you for the detailed video, I'm about to do my first pad change on my 1LE and this was perfectly clear. Two questions: 1. Any harm in adding brake grease to the contact points of the pistons? 2. Where did you buy those titanium shims?
Thanks for the comment! I’d be happy to answer. I would NOT put the grease on the piston contact point. All it does in that spot is collect dirt, dust and debris and that stuff can lead to premature dust boot failure. Adding it to the back of the pad at the piston doesn’t really do much for noise or vibration either, as most of that comes from the sides of the pad. The shims can be purchased from 89X Motorsports or KNS Brakes and are made by Girodisc.
Thanks! The floor is awesome and actually makes me want to do more work in the garage! lol. Going to change the oil on the Challenger sometime soon too, maybe I'll make a video of that.
Really good video. This is the same as I do but I do some internal caliper cleanup if I have time. Check the rear Ti shims they can be too big to clear the tabs on the back of the Hawk pads. I had to trim mine. Could add a link to the pad spreader tool you use
That is a really tough question to answer. Typically when you have a low-dust pad, you also have performance that matches. I haven’t found a good low-dust pad that performs well over time. You usually sacrifice stopping power for a cleaner wheel. My recommendation is to determine exactly what type of driving you plan on doing and get a pad that matches that purpose.
@@menswearhous yes, I do! I had a Scat Pack Challenger before. The Z26 pads are fine for a daily driver. They are low dust but they do not stop as well as the OEM pad. Keep that in mind and you should be fine.
Did they get you the ER-1? I haven’t tried those yet. The Ti plates help keep the heat out of the fluid. They have massive heat dissipation properties, so they should keep the pedal nice and firm the entire session.
Yes, you can, however if the spring clip is rattling you may need a replacement spring clip, they shouldn’t be loose enough to rattle. They should be snug against the pins and pads.
@@andrewg7678 No it did not. Have also had a couple mechanics look at it and no dice. Also, had an alignment recently. Everything feels fine just that dam rattle. Replacing the rotors and pads soon so I'll have a deeper look into it.
Another thought here, try removing the clip altogether. Those are there for NVH and aren’t REQUIRED. See if it goes away or stays. If it stays the issue is elsewhere.
Well that’s no good! It’s just a bolt at the back and pops right out towards the outside of the vehicle. Sometimes taking the bolt at the back halfway out and using a small hammer to tap it outwards helps too.
Typically speaking, it is not OK to use race pads daily. Race pads don't have the initial bite that street pads do when cold and take much longer to achieve their proper bite and get to operating temp. This can cause the car to feel like it has no brakes at first, and if you are just getting out on the road and need to make an emergency stop, you may not be able to stop in time. My car will be sitting and not driven until Road America, so that is why I put the race pads in instead of the OEM Brembo/Ferodo street compound. I will swap in the OEM street pads once my track event is over and drive home on street pads.
While your here ever had massive vibrations and noise from the front brakes when driving slow and coming to a stop at slow speeds...say pulling into driveway or parking lot??
@@FollowMyLine17 🤷♂️ i put em on and let em go...ita only showed up the last couple months........could be anything...im thinking worn out bushes on front suspension causing excess movement back n forth as its idle speeds so there isnt enough momentum to keep constant force???
@@McRib47 hey thanks for letting me know! It looks like the amazon link has changed. I’ll see if I can find the Lisle part number on the tool and list it here, and possibly get an updated link in the description.
@@McRib47 the part Number is a Lisle 29100 Quick Quad Pad Spreader. Looks like they are available on some other sights, and out of stock from Lisle direct. They might be discontinuing them or replacing them with a new model. Could be why the amazon link changed to a different part number.
..boy.. this is gonna be fun when it comes time (If I choose) to do my brakes on my 2021 Scat Pack... yay for Dynamic pack lol and...1,500$ front discs (a pc) lol nice vid.
Thanks! I had a Scat Pack previously that I upgraded the brakes on to the Hellcat 6-piston. You can definitely find the rotors for much, much less than $1500/each. Check out KNSBrakes.com @knsbrakes and they should be able to hook you up. It’s where I get all my brake parts from.
@@FollowMyLine17 thanks, but do they ship to Canada lol. Might Have to go via rock auto when the time comes , these DFC two pc coated rotors look interesting.
