trent i think its about time to make another light lager bro! ive made 3 so far and my last one was seriously on point! i made your light lager 6 months ago and it was pretty outstanding
I've brewed a cream ale with US-05, cold fermented and 20% maize, boiled and put in the mash. The US-05 does not drop from suspension, so I don't recommend it and the maize suprizingly tasted great and made an excellent thin beer. So I recommend brewing with corn grists and using W-34/70 even at 70 degrees.
Hey mate! I’ve decided to tackle this recipe but as I don’t have any form of temperature control I’m going to be fermenting this bad boy using Oslo kveik, it’s clean and fast and drops crystal clear. Thanks for the recipe mate! You’re a bloody legend 🇦🇺
Bud light is my favorite beer. I do love alot of other beers like fat tire and dark beers but of all light beers i think bud light is the best. Mellow buzz and no hang overs and it doesnt leave a bad aftertaste.
So I tried this for my very first batch ever. It is on day two of fermentation. The problem I have is that my hydrometer was not delivered until today. I did not realize how important gravity is. That being said, I have no original gravity. Is there anyway I can figure out the ABV? A quick Google search produced some really confusing results. Should I be concerned about drinking it without knowing?
First I wouldn’t be concerned about not knowing. It’s a nice to know but not the end of the world. I would input your recipe into a brewing software to see what it estimates your starting gravity. and then use the hydrometer you have now to measure final gravity and get a rough idea for alcohol content
Thanks! And as far as I know Biofine only works after fermentation, it doesnt work in the boil. And protip is to chill the beer first before using it for best results.
How many pounds of each did you use in your grain bill? You give the percent ratio but not an amount. Thank you for the video, I will definitely be trying this recipe for my next batch.
@@joeshevlin1188 Yeah you can! I would say for best results you should add it to your fermenter or a secondary and give it a few days before bottling for best results. But bottle conditioning will still leave some yeast in your bottle so just be careful when pouring for clearest pint!
This is awesome! I would love to see more 1 Gallon recipe's. I attempted the recipe but I got Zero head retention 😂 something went sideways somewhere..
You are amazing I’ve just started to home brew and I’ve been trying to brew a light beer that tastes like coors light thanks for a quick easy to understand video!
Trent, did you get any acetaldehyde only pitching 1 pack of 34/70? I have brewed a lager and pitched 4 packs of 34/70 ferment @ 50* but have this off flavor.
Quick question. Would making it stronger alter the flavor dramatically? If I add more of the grain and corn to increase the potential closer to 7% would the beer still have the same flavor?
Freeze them if you use fresh. And a soak in alcohol for dried is a good idea to be safe of infection. Both are good options, whichever you choose put them in a sanitized mesh bag for easy clean up
This is a super dope video, thanks for sharing! All my buddies are light lager drinkers and I like IPA's. I'm going to try this beer with corn that I malted myself and surprise the shit out of them! I'm kegging a Blue Moon Clone so it will be a few weeks as my kegorator only holds one. *is a converted mini fridge with holes drilled in it. and the door shelves cut out.
Hi I am going to ferment my lager warm at what point do I add the gelatin . during the second week of fermenting can I cold crash it then add the gelatin, then keg it ?
Do you have videos that explain the science behind making Beer I'm well experienced in making mead probably made over 200 gallons of that stuff and love it but I'd like to know the science behind a basic beer then maybe move more craft or even braggot. In mead making its lbs, oz, & grams not percentages so I'm lost on that and the basics of ingredients and how the produce each flavor profile or even the basic supplies needed to brew the Golden delight called beer. I know allot more goes into brewing beer than mead and I want to learn the process and why each step is important. Any response is Greatly appreciated. TIA
I’ve got a bunch of beginner brewing vids. Check out my All Grain video and Brew In a Bag video for some references on where to begin. It may seem intimidating but it’s not rocket science. I’m surely no scientist and I do ok haha
Hi Trent, I’m noticing in your videos that you don’t cold crash very often or at all. Do you see advantages to doing a cold crash or not really (unless it’s a NEIPA I would imagine cold crashing is a good technique)?
Before I didn’t have a way to do it easily but the beers still turned out great, I would just get some extra yeast in first few pours off the keg. I do have a way now so I’ve been doing it to help with clarity, it helps speed up the process a bit
This is probably an obvious question, but how do you figure how many lbs of grain and oz of hops to use from the percentage? I’m trying to scale for a 1-1.5 gal end batch
Percentages make it easier to scale down that's why I use them for my recipes. In a brewing software there is usually a scale function to help scale things down. I also listed estimated amounts in pounds in the description for this specific recipe
I have been brewing all grain for years and was challenged to make a Michelob Ultra clone. Your grain bill looks good but maybe lightening it up with a 70/30 (2 row to rice) ratio may be closer to MU. One web site (Keg King) says they use Herkules hops. Adding .25 to .40 oz of Herkules at the start of the boil should give it the slightly fruity hints MU has. Do you think I am close?
So I really like your videos they are good and to the point, I do have a question, I work outside the states at times and have very limited resources for brewing beer, what grains can I use that I may have access to? I did manage to get my hands on some organic rice malt extract and some simcoe hops, however I am limited to bread yeast here, (I actually have this fermenting right now using those ingredients in a large tea jar) but I am curious what other grains I can use in place of this rice malt extract, any help would be appreciated, I see these videos of "brewing with only grocery store ingredients" but then they use some high end yeast that I have no access to. Thanks for any help!
That’s a great question and I’m not sure I have an exact answer. But I know you can use oats in some brews where you like an increased mouthfeel and body. Might be a good question to ask in the Discord and see if anyone else has experience doing this. I hope to do a grocery store beer some day and hopefully by then I’ll have more ideas. Let me know what you find out!
Thanks! I haven’t experienced any DMS in my shorter boils, which I do almost every time. But if it’s a concern you can boil a little longer. I feel like if it was going to show up this would have been the beer but I didn’t detect any signs of it!
I'm brand new to Biofine clear and plan on using it in my next WCIPA. Instructions say 3ml - 30ml per 23L batch and was planning on settling in 20ml for my 19L batch.. but after watching this Great vid, I think I might reduce that to 5ml. Trent, have you come to that amount through trial and error? Thanks for the great content!
You know it’s been kind of mixed results and I’m still experimenting. On some beers I see great results and on others not as much. I am playing with using more recently. Like 10mL and having pretty good results. But yeah that dosage range is so wide, hard to say what’s best.
i want to brew this next. I ordered the SafLager w-34/70 but i noticed it says for up to 15 liter batch (3.96 gal) is that not an issue to do 5 gallons? thx 🍻
I’ve only ever used flaked rice so I can’t speak on long/short grain. But as for the hull or shell, those are great for preventing stuck sparge or mash and help with flow during the mash.
@@tonyxiong4913 6 & 3 lbs respectively. I recommend using a brewing software to figure out what is the right amount for you. That’s why I give percentages. Good luck!
EVERY beer brewing video I watch just makes me angry. NOT at you, but at Northern Brewers and them giving me bad advice. I just a week ago bought a 5 gallon pot for brewing. They suggested at least 16 quart, but I thought some "extra" space would be good so I got a 20 quart pot. NOW every video I watch tells me that I should have bought a 8 gallon pot. Oh sure I can adjust this and that to make ALL these recipes fit into my too small pot. I just have to wonder just how many other things I trusted them for will come back and bite me. Sorry, to vent. I've really liked your videos, and yes, I subscribed. ;-)
Haha sorry to hear about that. Maybe you can upgrade in the future but for now yeah you can still brew you’ll just need to be crafty with water amounts and when to add them
I don’t, I usually get it at a home brew store or website but if you have a hard time finding it you can try subbing instant rice for flaked rice. I’ve heard that works in a pinch
I did raise the temp slightly to help finish fermentation and drive off sulfur aromas. But didn’t cold crash. You could if you wanted to but I just wanted to get to drinking it faster!
@@TheBruSho did you mention that it is good to rise temp to 75 after fermentation to push out that gas word that starts with a D I can never spell it. Just think it might be a really good thing to note for the beginner brewers. That’s all
@@Frank-the-Tank-13 I think you are referring to diacetyl? And yeah I’ve mentioned it before in other vids but there wasn’t any noticeable butter aromas so I didn’t mention it here. But good thing to keep an eye out for, thanks!
I kinda developed the taste for beer but with bread yeast. I boil the beer after conditioning to get rid of some of the sulfer smell plus, it balances it out
i brew my beer at home to. I go to walmart and buy a 30 pack of Bud or Busch. then i come home and let it age int he fridge for several hours. Then Boom. Fresh brewed beer straight from the can. then i watch brewing Videos on you tube and play pretend. mm yummy good and fuss no muss
@@TheBruSho I'm just wondering how it would play with the grist amounts since it would add fermentables. Definitely would like a revisit of the style if you had the time and fermenter space. And thanks. I learned that I don't have to stick to only ale yeasts. Gets pretty hot here in Oklahoma.
I always enjoyed OLD working mans Beer....myself its PABST BR or FOUNDERS All Day IPA. A 4-4.5% ABV. Made for hard working men at lunh that can drink a beer.....go back to work and not be drunk and cut a finger off. Thats the OLD WAY SIMPLE TRUTH of it. I can mow my lawn or do building construction, and after having a cold brew can think and work clearly.
Can confirm WLP 800 yeast at warmer temperatures. Before I knew better in regards to fermentation temperatures (and still did all-extract), I pitched it into a German Pils, and it actually worked out okay! Definitely missed the mark of the style (because of a last minute substitution of pale ale DME instead of golden light DME), but the yeast took it in stride.
@@TheBruSho nice, I've only ever made beers that require 60 or more minutes on the boil. My brother has asked me to try and make him a Busch light type beer and this video caught my attention. Guess I'll give it a whirl.
When someone says that American lagers taste like water I have to ask them what the hell kind of water are you drinking?? I dont have the froufrou palate of so-called beer ‘experts’ but even I can tell the difference between the different macro lagers.
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