How To- Bring Balance to Your Blaster 

Stryfe motors stock will handle 3 IMRs, the motors may eventually burn the brush pack out but not quickly like a 3s Lipo. 2 gives good performance, especially with a rewire. Remember IMR s are still a Lithium chemistry and should be treated accordingly, don't leave them in blasters for long periods and don't over discharge them or you will kill the cell and risk a fire when you try to charge them again. Ensure there is no possibility of short circuit,must as you would with a Lipo pack.

+Tiger Foam Lol!

Do a rewire at the same time, it's not hard. I teach 11 year olds to do Stryfes. It's 8 solder joins and 3 wires.

Regular alkaline batteries can discharge a maximum of about 0.7C, depending on capacity.

A 460 ohm will still work for a 9v battery. Resistor goes on the +ve feed before the LED.

britnerf.myfreeforum.org/about1967.html

tick127 The hyperfire is well known to be awful. I don’t use IMR or any hard cell for full auto blasters. The larger size IMR might be better than nothing, Cool Look are garbage Lifepo cells, too low power output to use for Nerf, I wouldn’t put them in anything. If you want better performance then get a 3D printed flat cage for the Hyperfire, it has canted flywheels stock which are very bad when modded, fit some 2s mod motors like Meishel 2.0 or Fang RV and run it off a 2s lipo pack or big 7.4v NiMh RC pack.

@@foamdataservices Thank you for replying me! I knew hyperfire wasn't going to be great, but got it at bargain. At this stage I don't know if I want to mod a blaster I'm not entirely interested in, I just wanted to find some quick and dirty solution for the underperformance so I can take it out and actually have some fun with friends who use mostly stock or very mildly adjusted springers. I'll probably try the two imrs and see what happens with the grey trigger resistors or whatnot is hampering the output.

Because it’s not, IMR restricts you to only stock motors and the stock wiring leaves all the toy components in. See the battery test data here-www.tapatalk.com/groups/britnerf/battery-wars-shootout-results-t1816.html Lipo and new wire is worth 3fps average on its own vs IMR.

Hair Stock motors are fine on 2 or 3 IMR. Any type of mod motor requires lipo, despite what some mod parts sellers may try to tell you. 14500 IMR tops out at 8A, that is the burst figure, stock motors are 4-5A burst, leaving a bit of head room on the battery burst. The lowest power consumption mod motors are 8A burst. Lipo is better all round and safer for anything above stock motors.

Yes, the load on that is about 20A peak. More with a bigger spring.

You should always rewire if you intend to use high current batteries. However if you are leaving the thermosistor in place you can use just 2 with the stock loom and motors with no other mods, but you are left with all the locks and toy components in that way. Do yourself a favour and mod it properly. All IMR do not have the same rating, but most 14500 cells are 6-8A. The real world discharge of that cell is closer to 9A. They still limit you to only stock motors.

Thanks! It's amazing that I can get a response by the creator of the guide so quickly, let alone get a reply.

I wanted to put IMRs into my blaster because of the discharge curve. I didn't want to increase the velocity too much since I do play indoors and I plan to leave the thermosistor in along with the locks removed. So, I guess I will just get two of those IMRs to put in my blaster.

Rewiring is still worth it.

On point it is.

ITS AMAZING

They might, but you are most likely to burn out the brushes. If you are going 12v use a 3s mod motor like the OOD Valkyrie.

@@foamdataservices Thanks for the reply :)

+Bob O`Bob Do it right apart from when you are doing it wrong? Maybe that should be my new catchphrase.

Viewers in general and students in particular are easily distracted. By pretty much anything. Adjusting to that is not really very hard. Think of the length of the lever arm you are trying to employ. When I was teaching programming, for me it was almost 30:1. That meant it was actually worthwhile for me to invest half an hour of _my own time_ to cut just one distracting minute out of my presentations. For you the ratio is a whole lot higher. "Pretend this Trustfire is an IMR" just doesn't cut it. Spend the $6 before you start recording.

I wasn't worrying about being definitive, it just needed to illustrate the basic principle. I had about an hour to film and edit it, so it got made up as I went along to a degree.

+Bob O`Bob this could have been condensed into 2-3 sentences of cunstructive criticism. But it seems to come off as a rant?

I recommend the Nitecore i2 or Nitecore D2. You can get a 4 cell version too. You want a quality charger, they are safer and better.

Foamdata Services I’ve been using my imrs and I don’t know if I should store them charged or not charged. I can’t find anything on the internet that tells me specifically about storing IMRs

Charlie Dana All lithium chemistry batteries should be stored about 75% charged. I just leave my IMR charged, they get used every two weeks. All the IMR 14500 cells of decent quality won’t let you sub critical the volts but shouldn’t be left discharged, always remove from the blaster and store in battery cases in sensible temp range.

Got it 👍

25c will just about be enough if it's a 1000mah or bigger. Tamiya Mach dashes are 12A stall current EACH @ 3.7v. I don't understand why anyone uses them, when you can get MTB Honeybadgers or Rhinos that make more torque, better rpm and need less current.

Nobody sells make test battle motors here in my place and tamiya motors are really cheap here in philippines somebody does sell them but kinda expensive and i do not have a 3s lipo though, somebody do sells 1s lipos here for cheap but mostly for like the quadcopters and i know it will be bad (25C 650 MAH) if i was in australia or America, i would not get tamiya motors and just get honeybadgers or rhinos but just because of the place i live in, shipping is expensive and the only motors i have no choice to buy are tamiyas since most of my motors break after and after time. Thanks for the information Tom

Sorry, I forgot you were in the Phillipines.

ABorinGuy Run 2 OOD Krakens on the flywheel motors, with a decent set of aftermarket wheels like Cyclones or Bulldogs, then a Valkyrie on the pusher. The stock motor is trash and won’t like 3s. In my experience overvolting 2s motors never ends well, better to run a dedicated 3s motor on there. That will still give you about 10 darts per second and around 130fps.

@@foamdataservices What cage should I use with this setup?

I just use the stock cage, it’s free and with well set up precision flywheels it’s pretty consistent. I rarely bother with aftermarket cages, unless you must have over 130fps they are not worth it.

@@foamdataservices Can I safely use 18 AWG solid copper wire or should I switch to 16 AWG wiring? I only have the 18 AWG wire.

ABorinGuy DO NOT USE SOLID WIRE. Get some decent multi stranded silicone insulated hobby wire. Do it right or leave it alone, that’s the only way we h electric mods.

No. Too much current, not enough battery.

@@foamdataservices then 2 will be better?

If I play with 3.7v × 3 trustfires will my blaster die?

If its just stock the PTC may come on. Stop wasting time with trustfires, learn to mod properly or leave electric blasters alone. IMR 14500's are just about OK with a proper rewire in stryfes but not in anything full auto.

Hobbyking is the best place to get Lipo. Follow my formula in the how to match batteries to motors video then use the Hobbyking battery finder to get a pack. You will need a battery tray expander for the Stryfe. Worker make lots of mod kits, many of them not very good, do more research before buying, particularly motors and cages.

Also you will likely want an LiHv pack for that, don’t worry about specific Lihv chargers, you only need to charge them like a normal Lipo for Nerf. Accucell S60 with UK plug is the charger we recommend.

What size lipo should I get to fit a standard stryfe tray

You need a tray expander to use mod motors with the stryfe, it’s not worth it buying a tiny battery and stuffing it under the stock battery door, buy an expander. BSUK do a strong, cheap and indestructible one. You need at least a 1000mah capacity Lipo, none of which fit under the stock tray lid.

Can I get zippy lipo batteries? Are they good

A 3s Lipo will peak at just over 12v anyway.

hobbyking.com/en_us/accuell-s60-ac-charger-eu-plug.html?___store=en_us

Foamdata Services nice one, cheers!

Also that one is LiHv capable, runs off mains already and is much more reliable.

That is the thermosistor cutting in or the batteries dying from being ragged. You will get much better performance off a pack but ONLY if you rewire property. You can't use a pack over about 9.1v with the stock wiring or the thermosistor cuts in. Right now those cells are voltage sagging so much it takes ages to get hot enough to trip

Read the LEDs power rating in W, more watts, more light output. Generally several small LEDs is better than one large one, as you can spread the beam a bit.

Buy lipo, charger, mod motors and rewire.

If there's any budget left after that, buy precision fly wheels.

Many thanks, do you have any recommendations as to what lipo, what charger and what motors for that kind of money? Sorry, I'm pretty new to this, thanks.

Sorry i have one more thing, If you can paste the links for all those components, and I don't know which wires you use on stryfe and where to get it, as well as heat shrink, thanks a lot.

Blastersmiths.co.uk do a compete wiring kit.If you want DIY, Wire is 18AWG silicone insulated multistrand. We buy from Component Shop on Ebay. Lipo- depends on motors, weather you are using a tray expander and how hard you want to shoot. Charger- Turnigy S60 on Hobbyking.

If you have modded motors you will need a lipo pack. If you have stock motors 14500 IMR will meet the current demands.

18650 cells won't fit the stock tray.

I know but I have access to 3d printing and can make a new tray just wondering if tripple the amperage would be somewhat safe even though its not the best solution I got these li-ions for free and cant afford to overhaul with lipos and such

and these are ultrafires not imr batteries as I cant find those

You will have to read the manufacturers data sheet. I only use Zippy, Turnigy or Rhino packs

+Jack Armstrong If its a BEC then its not suitable for Nerf.

Strafes will run fine on 2 or 3. Start by breaking the motors in on AA batteries, you should run it for about 20 mins on this first, then when you have rewired run 2 or 3. If you don't rewire properly you can run2 IMR's on the stock loom, just put them and 2 dummy cells ( blank conductors, NOT regular batteries) in and off you go. 3 will trip the thermosistor. Rewiring is better all round.

+Barney Newson Ha Ha. Not yet. Maybe I should take a new career as an "entertainer."

+Dart Beard probably a 2 cell LIPO

+Dart Beard You could put 3s LiFePo4 in there or 8.4v Nimh. You could also run a 3s Lipo with 3 diodes to drop the voltage to the pusher. I would just buy a third Rhino.

I have enough Rhinos to do the pusher as well.

Torchy the Battery Boy on Ebay. Otherwise packs are both cheaper and better.

thanks

These are flat tops so you can only use 2 with dummy cells, take out the plastic battery separators then run the dummy buttons to the +ve of the tray and the flat tops with their -ve against the contact spring and the +ve to the base of a dummy cell, otherwise they won't reach the end of the tray. He has button tops but not as often. Remember stock motors only with IMR. I recommend the Nitecore D2 or D4 charger. Otherwise a small 2s lipo will work with any stock motor and mod motors for the same price as 2 IMR cells, charger is about the same price. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-7-5A-Torchy-IMR-14500-Flat-Top-650mAh-3-7v-Li-Ion-batteries-case/302583293625?hash=item46735ea6b9:g:RrcAAOSw9~5ZVUSZ