How To- Rev Trigger Microswitch Upgrade 

Yasie Qui I have been doing this type of stuff for 20 years. I still have all my fingers. You are right- KIDS, DON’T CUT TOWARDS YOURSELF.

Mosfet is still best, you also don't need one of the comedy switches, I have seen a DC2 take 60A burst no problem. All those "21A" clicky switches are ugly and unnecessary. Good re use of the screw port though.

Foamdata Services thanks, it was my first electronic mod

Well done.

Just had a search at my local hardware store, and saw this. Does it seem any good? 40W www.bunnings.com.au/tradeflame-40w-soldering-iron_p5910280

+AJ_Gus Too big, you want a compact 25-30w. That tip is nasty too. Look for a tip shape like this-uk.rs-online.com/largeimages/F0542879-01.jpg Home Depot do two or three suitable ones. A cheap iron like that is just a pain to use. My one was under $30

+Foamdata Services Thanks so much!

Devcon Plastic Welder. If you use a MOSFET board instead there is no need to change the Rev switch. Aftermarket ones often break loose, even with Devcon I have had one fail. Never broke a stock Rev switch in a FET build.

The cherry DC2 10A switch will work with that, any 5-10a switch will work fine with most motors. I have put 60A through a DC2 without problems. As a aside, your battery is irrelevant in the load being put on the components, it's the motor stall current you should pay attention to. The motors only draw the current from the power supply, up to their stall maximum, the battery doesn't force current to the motors. Watch my balance video. 20c is a bit on the low side for MTB Rhinos, I would be looking for a 30c constant pack, as each one pulls about 10A stall.

Foamdata Services Well I'm using the MTB Honey Badger motors, which are only 6 volts. Says they have a 10 amp stall current. Does that mean 10 amps per motor?

Yes, it does mean 10A PER MOTOR. That puts a stall load of 20A, which leaves no safety margin with your pack. Look for a better one. 25c is the minimum I would look for.

Foamdata Services Okay, thank you. I'm new to this, and don't want it to catch fire.

As long as you never short a pack or over discharge it, they are totally safe. The only battery I have ever had explode was a consumer AAA alkaline cell, for no apparent reason, in a box with all my IMR in. Fortunately they were all fine as they were hard cased separately! Watch Jangulars Lipo care and charge video.

Hair Too much heat there mate! Try putting the return spring on another post. If that fails then you could cut that post down and put a shell screw in the base of the post and put the spring on the screw instead of the post. As long as the whole lot is no longer than the original post it will close fine.

I always use the Cherry DC2. Omron OM10 is supposedly good. Just don't buy cheap crap off amazon or eBay, like 10 switches for $5.

or a cronus x

You will need at least 1000mah and 100-120c burst for that, you will also need a tray expander and a MOSFET loom with 14AWG main battery wires. BSUK make a high power kit that will work, but fitting that lot in a stryfe with an auto kit is very difficult. You don't need neo motors unless you have a very high crush cage and heavy/larger wheels. Really don't get why people are jumping on this hype train so hard, we have had neo motors for ages, they are not worth the power gain requirements in 90% of set ups.

The LiPo I am looking at is a 100mah 65c 130c burst lipo. I'm leaning on the containment crew motor cover because they're in America. Also, by neo-motors do you mean neodymium motors or specifically the neo motors by MTB. Instead of the neo-hellcats should I get something like the FB Fangs or the MTB neo-rhinos? Or if you were referring to neo motors as neodymium should I get the Cronus X?

I am saying ALL neo motors. 100mah us way too small, if that's a typo and you meant 1000 then that battery will just about do.

Here's the reasons- www.tapatalk.com/groups/britnerf/mtb-neo-motors-t4678-s10.html#p44576

Blastersmiths UK

Or Farnell, RS components or google Cherry DC2 10a.