I’ve just built it and it works perfectly 🎉. It’s incredible the smoothness of the movement and the cleverness of the design. Thank you for sharing this 🤩. The robot is now helping to automate biology experiments at Edinburgh.
hello, could you please provide more details about those 3 gears used, like their diameter size, number of teeth and hole size. - What type of 4 servo motors are here (180 degrees or 270 degrees or 360 degrees)?
1.59. When extending servo (etc.) wires, I have started staggering the solder joints. Using the wire colours in your video as an example, I would do this: * Cut each set of wires 1cm longer than you have shown. * Peel apart the ribbon cable, as shown in the video, * Do nothing to the brown wire. * Cut 1cm off the red wire. * Cut 2cm off the orange wire. * Now with the loose wires: * Do nothing with the yellow wire. * Cut 1cm off the red wire. * Cut 2cm off the black wire. * Slip a 4cm piece of shrink-wrap over ALL the wires. * Solder the wires as shown in the video... the difference is that the joints will be offset from each other, so the soldered parts cannot touch. * Shrink the wrap... the finished joint will be much thinner. 👍 😊
Damn, great videos. Can’t wait to see what else you come up with. Awesome step by step tutorials that can enable anyone to recreate your project. So good for learning.
This is really cool!! I', building this now. just got my new bambu P1s with AMS and this is perfect first project on it. Many thanks for the great project and tutorial
Dude, I have all of the exact hardware and wires you have down to the brand lol. You have it stacked in your video the way I have mine stacked on my shelf.
Putting heat shrink on the end of your alligator clips for holding wires is a great life hack so you don't mar your wires whilst soldering. (one piece on each side of the jaw, then heat).
If you are buying servos and other parts already you might as well just save time and effort and buy servo extension cables. They are cheap, come in loads of lengths and means you don’t need to solder.
I really Like the design. Maybe i will split some parts in order to ease printing and to reduce need for Support Material. Would also be nice to have .scad files, as they make modifications more easy.
Thanks! Great idea to reduce supports! Unfortunately, I do not believe I am able to export designs as .scad files from Fusion 360. However, this link will take you to the Fusion and .step files for this arm/controller: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1x4P8AquQILwCp8e5CiRJLfVJiJn2U4cF?usp=sharing Hope this helps!
Great model, I assembled it and am working on using ROS2 for better control of the arm (I got inverse kinematics working with arduino code though). Could you possibly send me or publish the STEP files of each component so that I can assemble it in onshape to export as a URDF file? Thanks!
Is there a replacement for the three gears used? All the other parts are available locally, and I don't prefer to buy the gears' kit online. So, can I print these gears or something?
Thanks! I’m using an adjustable power supply (linked in description) and running it at 7 volts. But really, any 7V power supply that's rated for at least 5 Amps should do.
Hi so i am a student and i am doing a project where i am using brain waves to try and control a robot arm i dont really know what i am doing but i know that the brain waves can be used to control Arduino robots would there be a way for me to connect it to this build?
I noticed you didn't list any quantities in your parts list. Am I wrong in assuming I need to order just one of each of the parts/sets/items listed in the material list above?
Looks great! im going to try modify it a bit, to make it into glados from portal 2... idk how well it will go but im excited anyway. could you test if it works while upside down?
Thanks! I haven’t experimented with record and play functionality much, but it has been done before. I believe it requires some sort of storage device (such as a Raspberry Pi) to store all of the positions. You could probably find some helpful videos covering the topic in depth here on RU-vid.
I want to put the circuit together before printing parts, just to test everything, but in the circuit diagram I don’t know which motor is which. Could you tell me which motor is which from top to bottom on the motor? The one labeled hand is obvious, but I want to be super sure. Thanks
Certainly! The servos are listed in descending order starting from the “hand.” So, from top to bottom on the diagram is from the gripper to the base on the model.
What do you use to power the PCA9685 Servo Driver Board? I am trying to build my own robot and have the issue of powering the servo driver. It needs 5V but my breadboard power supply module outputs only 500mA. Every other power supply is eighter 12V (or more) or is really expensive.
I built it on a breadboard but am having trouble getting it to work. The code loads fine. Does it need power from both the Arduino and the servo driver board? what is the voltage to the driver board? Is the breadboard schematic correct. I didn't want to start printing parts until I knew we could wire it correctly.
I currently want build a robotic arm but i dont have a 3d printer. Do you know if theres a way to build my own without a 3d printer like i can buy all the parts somewhere thats also cost effective?
I am assembled the robot. My gripper servo (SG90) just keeps rotating. Any specifics on which servo I need to use? I have checked and the ones I have got are not the continuous ones. Would appreciate any help as this is blocking my build.
Resolved. The servo I got were continuous rotation. It did not say anything on the label which caused the confusion. When ordering servo for gripper, please ensure you get ones that specify rotation angle = 180 degrees
How did you make the motions so smooth with software? My potentiometer readings fly all over the place and the motors just tic and twitch all the time. Or am I having bad connections? Hmmm
I believe they are back in stock now. If they still say "unavailable," it may be because they cannot ship to your region. Any servos of the same specifications should do.
Hello, since I can't get the 20kg servo, I could replace it with another mg995 and if I can't get mg995 either, why could another servo motor replace it, more than anything, it's for a sample, not to carry something heavy.
hello, could you please provide more details about those 3 gears used, like their diameter size, number of teeth and hole size. - What type of 4 servo motors are here (180 degrees or 270 degrees or 360 degrees)?
I have built this, but for some reason whenever I turn it on the robot arm doesn't mirror what the controller is doing. The wrist potentiometer is corresponding to the base servo, but nothing else works. I have rewired it, and changed out Arduinos and it still doesn't work. Is there a possibility I got faulty code? What else could be wrong? Thanks.
@@That_droper wow, no I dont't. But i also would't recommend this robot design for stepper motors. There are lots of other designs already made for stepper motors. (And raspberry pi) good luck
It is not required, and another standard servo may work. However, I would recommend using it in the joint shown to reduce jittering. (Because, that joint will need to lift the most weight)
Hello! While running servos directly off of the Arduino is less complicated, it can become impractical when controlling more than just a couple servos. Since I need to power 5 servo motors for this arm, it would draw too much current through the Arduino’s 5V pin and possibly fry the board altogether. The PCA9685 Module supplies power directly from an external power supply to prevent this from happening, which allows me to control up to 16 servos without worrying about burning up the micro controller. Hope this helps!
Thanks! That’s awesome! The standard 220 x 220 mm bed size will easily fit all of the pieces. You will just have to distribute the parts in groups to print them all. In other words, the standard bed size volume won’t be able to fit all of the parts in just one print. Hope this helps!
Hello! The small arm is explained in Part 2 of this tutorial. The explanation begins at around 4:45 in Part 2 and its wiring can be found in the description.
Hello Build Very good excellent work. I'm printing and waiting for parts, I have a question: do the potentiometers have to be in a certain position when starting with Arduino? Greetings from Spain
Hello! Thanks! After the robot arm is fully wired and the code has been uploaded, when you power the robot on the servos will automatically move to match the position of the potentiometers after 5 seconds. I have incorporated the 5 second start delay so that users can line up the controller to roughly the same position as arm (so that the arm doesn’t move too fast to match the potentiometers). There may be a better way of doing this, but this is just what I implemented at the time.
Hello, thank you for your prompt response. In your video when you load the program the controller is fully assembled. My doubt is, in what range should the potentiometers be before mounting and closing the controller and before loading the program. I understand that the potentiometers before closing and loading the program must have a preset position for the correct movement of the arm. Forgive my clumsiness a greeting
@@manelangulo8352 Ah, I think I understand your question now. All of the potentiometers should be in their middle/halfway position (When the slot on the metal knob is parallel to the three pins' bracket on the bottom). Once the potentiometers have been set to their mid positions, all of the controller's pieces should only fit on one way. Sorry, I should have clarified this in the video. Hope this helps!
Hello Build. This is what I sensed, but I want to clarify it. When I receive all the pieces and assemble it I will let you know the result. greetings from Spain
I just printed the piece of the main arm. The one that the motor is not mounted to. The material that connects the bearing the the arm is super thin. It snapped under light pressure. Maybe 1mm? Is that by design or did it not print properly? Looking forward to trying out your design.
Figuring out which gear to use is frustrating given a big pack of unmarked gears. I bought the gears using the link you provided but I am only coming up with 38 and 42 toothed gears. None of which have the diameter or lay flush as your gears seem to do in the video. Did you cut the guide rod bearing off? Also the hole diameter is much smaller with the linked gears than an m4 can go through. Is the link for the gears on amazon accurate?
I also bought the same one as listed in the description and i found the 34 and one 40 tooth gear, as for the other 40 tooth gear i took one which had 40 tooth and some small gear attached end i cut that part off. as to make it flush i simply cut the bits that extended outwards off. i hope this helps
@@mihaichici hello, could you please provide more details about those 3 gears used, like their diameter size, number of teeth and hole size. - What type of 4 servo motors are here (180 degrees or 270 degrees or 360 degrees)?
hello, could you please provide more details about those 3 gears used, like their diameter size, number of teeth and hole size. - What type of 4 servo motors are here (180 degrees or 270 degrees or 360 degrees)?
Hello! While the material cost is relatively low at around $60. The total cost to purchase everything upfront is much higher at around $200. However, this is assuming that you have none of the suggested parts and would need to purchase everything. And, most of the purchases included in this total have more parts than what is required for this project. For example, the linked micro servo pack comes with 4 servos, but only one is needed. Hope this helps!
Hello! While the material cost is relatively low at around $60. The total cost to purchase everything upfront is much higher at around $200. However, this is assuming that you have none of the suggested parts and would need to purchase everything. And, most of the purchases included in this total have more parts than what is required for this project. For example, the linked micro servo pack comes with 4 servos, but only one is needed. Hope this helps!
This is awesome! I recently bought my own 3d printer and this inspired me to try and design and make my own arm! Will definitely use this as a reference. Keep on making things dude!
hello, could you please provide more details about those 3 gears used, like their diameter size, number of teeth and hole size. - What type of 4 servo motors are here (180 degrees or 270 degrees or 360 degrees)?
