Trading with zero knowledge of the market was not fun at all, but now I am grateful that I can trade with peace of mind. I have full confidence in his trading abilities.
@ Hobbyist Miner Fire DANGER ! A licensed electrician would ALWAYS know you Must have strain relief or suitable connection from a temporary power cord to a plug appliance per code. The chance that the wire, under strain from just the wire weight and/or external forces, could loosen and/or damage the wire connection and possibly the wire by reducing the gauge ( splintering of the multi strand copper ie: reducing the current carrying capacity ) causing a hot spot and a possible fire hazard. Also, if the connection exits this box, a shock hazard is also possible. See NEC ( National electric codes ) Consult a licensed electrician or you government regarding regulations for your specific location or follow the NEC in the US as a minimum standard. Fire in ANY form is a risk you should prevent at all times and more so if you are a home miner, your family depends on you! Please Be safe for you and your family. P.S. National Electrical Code (NEC) does not allow extension cords in lieu of permanent wiring (NEC 400.8(1) - 2014 Version). General rule- if equipment is powered from an extension cord for more than 30 days, permanent solutions should be installed.
As a miner/electrician I can say with confidence this would not pass the electrical code my state follows (NEC2017) for the aforementioned reasons in the above comment. Without strain relief, wires can become loose and cause a hazard not only to your equipment but your family and home. Please consider using a grounded metal electrical box with clamps. NOTE: My first comment was deleted, not sure why.
Your both 100% correct it’s not suitable for a permanent fixture box. Buuut if you were following along the video it’s mentioned that there should be a knockout put in the box at either the bottom or the back. Now for the purpose of a how to video it had to suffice.
@@MisterElectrician Yes it was “How to and setup” video that was not a proper finished product, which left unmodified, is a hazard that we have pointed out to warn the viewing public.
@@MisterElectrician It doesn't outright say in the video how big the knockout hole diameter is. The electrician in the video knew he had to put one in and tried to point out incompatible issues in a nice way but it definitely needs to be addressed more thoroughly. The NEC doesn't make up rules out of thin air, although it may seem like it at times. Understand that as miners, we should continue being innovative but let's do so, safely. This "electrical box", as it stands, is a legitimate hazard. I hope many of you do not have an issue if you do decide to YOLO this and leave it like it is in the video. But when this scenario is replicated 100s of times over, the chance of something going wrong become harder to bear, at least for me. *** If anyone is going to go ahead and do this(all plastic box), make the knockout hole 1/2" in diameter, so you can, at the bear minimum, add a 3/8" Arlington NM94 pushin strain-relief connector; it's about $0.50 and gets you much closer to having a proper and safe setup. Even with the push-in, know that, most likely this will not meet the standards for the electrical code in your area alone. *** Personally, I would use a grounded metal electrical box, a clamp connector for strain relief and @The Hobbyist Miner's meter plate; permanently fixed on a wall.
Again your both right and it’s a new product. All this feedback is good. Who knows maybe they will add a 3/8 knockout so that you wouldn’t have to drill the opening to fit a connector! Don’t get lost on the small things though enjoy the video for what it is. Information on how to hook up the meter!
Question - It looks like this box was likely plugged into a 30amp outlet elsewhere in your farm, making it like an extension cord with the meter on it. Can this be wired up directly to the wires coming from your panel? Meaning this outlet IS your main outlet off the breaker box... ?
Awesome video! I'm looking at adding a 240v in my mining room so I can grow a bit. Think your friend might do a tutorial on adding a line from the breaker box, just to see all that is involved with that? I've changed breakers before so pretty comfortable working in the panel, but never added a new line. So just want to be sure I'm not missing anything and would like to see it done before I do it.
@@TheHobbyistMiner Yes sir! Hopefully he will be down with showing us how to do that. I know there might be some concern about something of that scale, but if someone is competent enough and knows they can do it safely it shouldn't be a problem. I would hope that someone that isn't comfortable doing such a task wouldn't even try just for safety sake. I just want to be sure I would be doing it to code with no mistakes as far as that is concerned.
After I pay off my rig I’ll definitely look into buying one of these. I’ve held back from buying this because I haven’t done much electrical work but I might have to give it a try after this video.
240v is easy, no polarity. both hots are hot, green is the standout (visually, easy to see its not a hot). Have confidence and go slow. ENSURE THERE IS NO ELECTRICITY WHILE DOING THIS! everything is a power after the green, so plug em in. just take care with the cutting is the biggest thing, dont go too deep with the knife, and dont strip too much of the insulation off. Good tips in this video for the noob. (strip length, twists, pull test on wires, check for the strip gauge, tape over connections). I would have added a not for the gauge of the controller wires in the video. (it might say whats required on the controller screen, dunno. but shouldnt need to chop up a 6pin connector)
Is there one available that the box is made of metal instead of plastic? Thanks! I think transferring >3,000 watts of power in a plastic box is a fire hazard and my electrician would probably refuse to install it.
Awesome VID, any chance you will do one from the House Electrical box to expansion box to wire running into the meterbox. Keep them coming always enjoy your VIDs.
Got a box today, but I think they may be a bit overwhelmed by orders. Just got a box, no hardware at all for either the screen or to screw the face to the box. Huge bummer.
@@TheHobbyistMiner Just had a chance to reach out to The Meter Box today about my missing hardware. They were super helpful on live chat, and processed the shipment before we even finished chatting. They offered a discount on additional boxes for the trouble too. Nice upsell, and I went for it. lol
Hey love your video. Followed to a T hooking up meterbox.. Do you have any PDU tutorials? My valient power pdu isnt showing the ground indicator. Yet everything is grounded. I had electrician install everything. Bad pdu? Or do they make mistakes and forget to test grounding before leaving job and flicking on breaker?
@@TheHobbyistMiner what do you recommend for monitoring consumption for your taxes ? I assume you need a legit meter in case youre auditted instead of just calculating?
hey brother am really interested in mining can you please advise me where to start from scratch latterly when you dont even know what a motherboard is. Please and thank you i would be grateful with your guidence
did I miss the old electrician's phrase of "Righty tighty and Lefty Lucy" for the common/standard of winding direction of electrical wires??? that's how I learned to do it and it's a simple phrase to remember too. Now if I could only remember how to properly lock/unlock my windows using a similar phrase of sorts... cause all windows latches don't do it all the same way...
The thick black cable is loose inside the box. It lacks a retainer, so any tug on it can cause it to come loose and cause an accident. This plastic box is of poor quality and design.
A 3/8 in knockout would be sufficient. It would allow for a connecter. It’s touched on in the video though. Things like this are important so they can improve the design.
Agree without strain relief this is a fire hazard. Also Hobbiest could you increase plastic sidewall thickness by 20% to make the box stiffer and have less flex?
