How to Build a Ford 5.4L 3V Engine - Part 7: Timing Set and Camshafts 

So I was mistaken when I said the Cam Tower bolts are TTY. They are reusable just torque to 89 inch pounds in sequence. But I do recommend the ARP ones because they are so good! Thanks for watching!

Ryan, your remark about the cam cap bolts being TTY and therefore junk was something I had not heard. Having recently done the timing on my 4.6L 3V, which has the same heads as this one, and having done so with replacement TTY phaser bolt and an ARP crank pulley bolt (because stock is also TTY), but having kept and reused the cam cap bolts, I was a slight bit afeared I'd messed up with this new information. So I went a-huntin', and I read the 'LH Camshaft Replacement' section in the Ford repair manual for the Mustang. And nowhere does it say to discard the bolts, as it does for the TTY phaser bolt. Others in other sites have said simliar: cap bolts are reusable. I'm fairly certain the 5.4 3V would be the same if I had a hold of that book? That's not to say that on a brand new build like this I wouldn't recommend ARP for all the things, so I whole heartedly approve for sure, but I just thought I'd run that by ya and see what you had for thoughts. Thanks for what you're doing, very much enjoying the series on this rebuild!

Another great episode! Can’t wait to see this dropped back in your truck and running. Keep ‘‘em coming!

Best engine rebuild video ive seen to date. Keep up the good work. Awesome instructions. One question tho. Roughly how much would a job like this cost. (Parts and machine shop etc...) i think in part 4 you mentioned listing the prices. But i think i missed it that part.

Such a great series! Keep them coming!

Great job on this video really well explained well shot and very very clear thank you

1st off, love your video series on the motor builds. Would love to see you guys do a 5.7 hemi build. Keep the videos coming

Is there an specific reason you didn't installed the cam followers before the camshaft, did you installed them after?

When timing aren’t you supposed to turn crank clock wise instead of of turning it back to the left like you did and what position are the piston locations because you don’t want valve meating piston

Show the whole process to finish, running in the truck,very informative

The Ford factory service manual reinstalls followers after the timing chain and tensioners are installed using the special tool. Would you rotate the crankshaft keyway from 11 to 12 or 6 before reinstalling the followers to neutralize potential interference? Instead of reinstalling followers using the special tool one by one, could you carefullly loosen the cam caps and slide them under and then torque the caps?

I've seen in there that you rotated the engine counter. Clockwise, aren't you supposed to rotate it clockwise always just an observation. , but very good information

the cam with the longer snout goes on the side that requires a shorter one?

Hi a have question I did all the timing change and before I put the timing cover i turn my crank shaft to see my marks still line up but they r not I guess my question is I shouldn’t turn the crank it all after doing the timing change

Just wanted to get it right because I’m doing my 4.6 L three valve. I’m doing the timing I’m doing the heads so I want to get it right

I just did mine on my f250 and now I got the p0345 p0349 and from what I know I'm off by 1 tooth so how do I go back an reset the timing on bank 2 1 tooth again. It runs amazing but the check engine light keeps coming on after I changed the cam sensor an the pigtail. What do I do?

Ryan, is this procedure the same with the Ford 4.6 3V year 2006?

I could've wrong but left side phaser is not the passanger side?

Why did you put the entire timing set together without the roller followers in? You’re gonna have to take all that back apart to put them under the cams. That’s why you have so much free play and the cams just spin about all freely.

I never seen that , installing those cam caps studs by hand only with silicon , without torquing them .

I mean, you could have your crankshaft 360° out of phase.

Why use the old shitty plastic tensioners that cause alot of problems. Should of used the cast iron ones