Always great stuff. The "as long as I learn to put stuff back" made me laugh. As a career machinist, I would ever be trying to remember to put things back. That's what bigger benches are for the drawers and cabs are just for show HAHA
The shouldered tenons are a genius idea! Not having to stop the stile grooves before the ends moves this operation from the router table to the table saw and saves so much time, plus I think it looks terrific. This alone makes the video worth watching. What a brilliant tip!
Thanks Rob and family, I’ve been thinking about writing into you guys to cover this topic for quite a long time now! What a delight to see it pop up. Really enjoyed this video, thanks again
Hi Rob, I am working on a Frame and Panel sliding door. It’s a bit bigger than your cabinet door but it is basically the same, in principle, just scaled up with a middle rail. The two panels are being made from resawn curly maple boards that started at 1 1/8+ inch thick and will finish at just under 1/2 inch to fit the half inch wide grooves in the styles and rails. All boards started at 8 1/2 in wide and will finish at 8 inches for glue up. I have two lengths from one board that is an “heirloom” piece and I can’t replace it and it has strong sentimental value to my brother in law. So the book matched pairs will be the center piece for each panel. Since there isn’t a lot of meat left after resawing, I’ve been really nervous about warping, bowing etc. I have them all separated by stickers and clamped, sitting in the house, to try and keep them flat. Question, do I need to wait or how long should I wait before planing the sawn side and then planing them down to final thickness before glue up? Do I need to sticker them again, for some length of time, before glue up? Note, the boards were in the house for a year, after flattening to the thickness before resaw.
I really enjoy your videos. There's always more to be learned than just the subject in hand. Things like the setting of the marking gauges and using relative measurements. Thanks for making and sharing.
Thanks Rob and team, This was a great refresher on cabinet door building. I have enjoyed the series of videos you have been making. They are such a great resource for the hobbyist woodworker.
Surely the same design considerations and principles apply regardless of the measurement system, or even if using a story-stick and relative dimensioning. Despite being fluent in both Imperial and Metric, I use Imperial for the majority of work as most of the plans I have access to are from old textbooks or magazines. It’s not worth the time (or the risk of introducing an error) to convert to Metric before building.
Thank you Rob and company for your customer service and great products. I just received my new Wood River #4 1/2 and I think it might possibly perform better out of the box than the #6. The prep work on the smoother was minimal and the blade was dead flat and took only a minute to get translucent shavings. We also appreciate the samples of maple syrup. Keep up the impressive work!
I’m enjoying this beginner series. I want to make a dresser without drawer slides but like the look of overlay doors. Will the extra weight on the front of the drawer cause issues with piston fit drawers? The drawer fronts will be frame and panel. Thank you!
Is there a reason you didn't fix the panel in the center with a drop of glue or dowels for this build? I've seen you do it for other projects so I was wondering if some types of doors don't need the extra step. Many thanks for the video.
I have the veritas skew block plane with a knicker and I find it a nuisance to use. Unless you get perfect alignment it just makes a mess. I never had any problem with using it without the knicker. across grain or with the grain it works a treat. If I am doing with the grain things up to 12 mm (1/2 inch) I use my plough plane from Luban.... it is faster and easier than the skew block plane for small with the grain jobs :)
@@bigkiv47 yah, I have the Veritas skew rabbet plane and same here it is extremely difficult to correctly set the blade AND knicker perfect. I’ll have to try not using it and see how the results look
Not a video. Pinning M&T joints i snot necessary if you have clamps. A pinned joint was developed when you dont have a long enough clamp to hold the joint tight while it glues. The only time I use a pinned joint is in pieces that are longest than my longest clamps.
Your just as good with the number 8 in your left as you are in your right hand. When plaining the rabbit in the panel, is there any benefits to doing the end grain before the long grain to prevent tear out? Great video as always
Great video. My only critique is you did not finish the panel before inserting it. If you finish it in place now in the summer with it maximally expanded as it shrinks you may expose an unfinished edge come winter time.
You didn't mark the reference edge - is it because You are so sure of the squareness of the board, or because it is just for showing the proper technique?
1. Why would the tenon be 3/4" deep in a 2" wide style. Does going deeper result in no significant advantage in strength. Or is this a whole nother video topic. 2. Do you use a pencil to make visible lines for the video or would you normally use a pencil for this marking out process.
Going deeper begins to weaken the wood the mortise is in since you are chopping out a bigger mortise. 3/4" depth is plenty strong. No O would normally use a pencil where you see me using a pencil in this video
What make is the double marking gauge? The Veritas and Lie Nielson ones I can find in the UK have two posts to give two grooves - which is not as convenient as the one you used - allows any spacing to be set by 'grabbing' the thing you are measuring.
Rob I’m sorry to finally make this comment because I don’t want to be that guy but your breathing doesn’t sound so good and seems to be getting worse. It’s hard to ignore to be honest. I hope you’re healthy. Genuinely. I’ve had asthma and respiratory ailments since I was very young so I know how it feels to have bronchial obstruction... I love your channel and have a lot of respect for you and what you do and I really hope you are well. It’s just very difficult to ignore.
Excellent work is obvious...but to build a kitchen of cabinets and the amount of doors needed it would be too much of a time investment thus making this hand method not practical... But I love the method so I'm in a bit of a quagmire...😵 😩
Yes, you are right. If you are doing a big job or a production job I would not do it by hand. just one or two or fine furniture I do by hand because in small batches hand is quicker
