Check out the other videos in this series: - How to make a Case: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kykRYEBdQzU.html - How to make a Frame & Panel Door: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8dG3szL6sj0.html - Cabinet Doors 101: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-om50AtwPd44.html
Let's see...Rob Cosman, Paul Sellers, Tom McLaughlin. Yep, you are in rarified air. Thanks for continually putting out some of the best content on the internet.
Wow! What an eye opener! We have several pieces of "antique" furniture that I was going to restore. They have ship lap backs that need pieces replaced. I'm so glad I watched your video first, otherwise I would have totally screwed it up by ignorance. Thanks Rob for saving a piece of craftsmanship from a wood butcher!
Yes! So glad you updated the intro! Rob’s covid times intro needed an update and I mentioned that during your last live. Looks good Rob! Thank you for all your contributions to the Woodworking Community.
Thank you for reminding me about flattening the tip of the nail to avoid splitting, I forgot about that. An old trick I learned from an Irish Carpenter. Thanks for the expansion tips.
I have just watched the entire session on the ship lap back and had to make some comments. You ask if we like your method of teaching and this series is a perfect example of why I do. You are very fastidious and a very good presenter. I love the fact that you show never brings in the rapid fire shots and takes the time to fully explain what you are trying to do. It is just great. Now, about the story pole. You might have explain why and where this idea is better than a tape and why the results are much less prone to mistake. I had an old time carpenter and cabinet maker introduce me to the theory and have used it for over 50 years. Tremendous. Few videos are of the same quality. Keep up the good work and the Purple Heart Project.
I may never make anything using hand tools like this; however, just watching you make that story stick was wonderful. I also found the shiplap back fascinating. In particular for a wood tool box idea I have…
Every time I start watching a video of yours Rob, I know I'm going to learn something new. Everything is always clearly explained. Thank you very much Rob!
I can't remember the last time I saw somebody actually use a hammer and punch to set nails. Everyone know seems to use an air nailer. I love his precision.
I would suggest that those who are new to woodworking do their test cuts on a scrap piece of the same thickness. It would avoid the mistakes that some of my friends have made. LOL
I live in Rockport Tx. very humid if its right from the lumber yard i use a dime if its in a controlled environment I use a nickel for my gap. So far it's worked pretty well.
Thanks for this series, Rob! I have already learned on my own much of what you show here, but I always come away from your videos with something extra I didn't know, or some technique you use that works better than how I've been doing it. I especially love how you 'see' with your fingers. I learned that skill from my father, and it brings back memories in the shop with him.
Great look to the back. I would have thought the glue would have been in the center of each board so that the movement would be on both edges of each board. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.
Really like that contrasting piece in the middle. Not only does it look great , but it automatically says it's not some cheap "beadboard" plywood back. Also like the story board method you used. Too easy for me to mix up the rabbets and also easier to visualize the lay out. Thanks again!
I really appreciated the layout and story-stick tips. Several years ago I restored a couple of antique cabinets in my home in Wisconsin, so-called “knock-apart” cabinets… the shiplap backs were nailed and not glued, and it took me several pieces of wood cut by trial and error to get fit of the shiplap right. If I’d seen this video first it would have been a lot easier (and much less wasted lumber!).
I put the ship-lap backs on my bookcase and display case I built for every reason you discuss. I used British 2 Pence coins for spacers between the boards because I had them to allow for wood movement. I ran a 1/4" bead on the inside pieces of the back to give me that look. The bookcase hides it with books, but the display case shows the vertical beads well with my Tyrannosaurus jaw I used red oak for all the pieces. I prefinished all the wood, too.
Hi Rob, love your show! I think that you mentioned in another series a reference that gives you wood expansion estimates by wood species and sizes. Any chance you could share this reference?
I enjoy watching your presentations - well thought out. Just 2 points. I always use screws for fixing and no glue, but don't fix onto the back. I would dovetail nail if nailing, perhaps glue then. Second point is I make the gaps between muntins and panels narrower and reduce seasonal movement by selecting qurtersawn stock. Keep up the good work. I always learn something from your videos, sometimes by what I see in the background. .ie by observing your s.hop as well as the subject of your presentation.
Thanks for a great video. 1. Why use the nails? Isn't the glue enough. 2. Me being a hobbyist wood worker, would dovetaling the centre piece into the top and bottom back be good for strength and stability or am I being "over the top".
This was just what I was needing! How would you lay out the shiplap for a wider back? In this example, you glued/nailed the sides of the end boards, and oriented the movement-accommodations towards the center piece in a 5-piece back. Suppose it was, say, 10-pieces? Would you glue/nail the center of each board for movement in both directions for the boards for a wider backing?
One possible explanation I've heard: a pointed nail is a wedge, it goes between the wood fibers pushing them apart, thus splitting the wood. a blunt nail cannot wedge between the wood fibers, so when you drive the nail, it punches through and breaks the wood fibers at the point
Rob - you are amazing - however what on earth are you doing with the story board ? roughly work it out with around the size you want in the middle left over - cut identical sized pieces for left and right - then cut and fit the centre T section to whatever is left over if its 2" or 1 1/2" is that really that awful for you? would that stress you out ? :)
Very nice! I just love your videos. Makes me what to go out and build something similar... until I find out all measurements are a tiny off here and there. So hard to get it perfect like the way you do it.
Awesome video as usual. It gave me several ideas. One question or comment though- when you were installing the fir strip and I started to split, I believe I would have stopped and trust the glue to hold it in place. Is there a reason you did not want to do that?
Never thought about putting a contrasting strip down the center of the back like you did. Looks great. Do you have a source for the spacer blocks (set up blocks) that your friend gave you? I don't see them on your web site. Thanks,
Your videos are interesting and informative, but I don't have the patience to watch them. That's a long video to accomplish a back. I offer this in the most constructive of intentions.
That is OK Jeff, my intent from the beginning was to “teach” not to entertain. If you read some of the comments you will see that my segment of the woodworking audience wants the details not the highlights. To each his own.
I do its just that with COVID we haven't had any new classes so I dont have any new aprons. The last one was falling apart so I made this one with patches folks sent me. I actually glued the patches on, I just didn't have an American flag handy. Once classes get going and Luther will make me a new apron it will have the US and Canadian flags sewn on it
To the continent that is North America: For the love of God, please go Metric! 10:08: "A one thirty second shy of four inches..." - or precisely 100.8 millimetres. For practical purposes: 101mm. Just a number. Always the same units. No fractions, or at worst, decimal (10ths=easy), if you want to split a mm. Sorry, rant over. Another great video showing just how I SHOULD have been doing cabinet backs. :)
