If you want the printed blueprints and manual go to www.easyhalfpip... Step by step, all the video instructions are here. If you want a materials list here 's the link for that: www.easyhalfpip...
tip use 3/4 plywood for flat bottom use 2 layers 3/8 plywood for transition use 3/4 plywood for transition templates make 8 instead of 4 ,cut 2x4's or 2x6's 46 1/2 inches connect transitions together attach 2 transitions together ,this is far more stronger than using just 2 transitions and attaching them with long 2x4's or 2x6's there will be no soft spot in the middle of your transitions i have been building ramps since the early 70's they never fail
My son is 22 and wants this for Christmas. I'm disabled and want you to know how much I appreciate this simple to follow video. I believe we can do this. Thanks for the video. It saves us lots of money. I can just see the neighborhood in my yard. Wow.
So professional. We built it 4 foot ramp when we were 14 years old or maybe 15. We stole the wood from the houses being built next door to the kids house who backyard we put it in. And we just put it all together with no blueprints. The most technical thing we did was Trace out a piece of string for the transitions. It actually turned out pretty good. But it wasn't portable and when the workers came back to the houses being built next door to the kids house, they were pissed but we didn't live there so who cares
+Edward Ramirez This is covered in the printed manual & blueprints. The transitions, decks and flat bottom are made to come apart in chunks. They then stack quite nicely into a cube. It's still big, but a fraction of the size. It would take 3 to for guys to move the ramp when taken apart. Hope that helps.
@Edward Ramirez @easyhalfpipe You have to buy the plans for that bit of information. Come on guys, OP was kind enough to give the full instructions for a nice little mini-half at no cost. Let him have something to enable him to make a dollar or two for his time and effort.
dont use pvc pipe for coping or leave the screw has hanging out of the coping. the pvc will stick and not grind and the screw heads will catch your trucks
That's a great looking half pipe! does the distance between the two ends matter? I mean the length of the whole thing, is there some standard rule as to the ratio of length x height?
how would i go about making this wider its not like they make longer boards so how would i like safely secure them to make this wider like two of those next to each other..
hi this thing looks pretty darn big. is it reasonable to build this thing 6' wide vs. 8'? we just want something the kids can ride on and doesn't have to be competition grade. If I did this would it still give us sufficient surface area for riding, tricks, etc.?
Well when you air out you're Ollie-ing so why can't you just go over it? I have never really had problems with that, maybe you want to put the coping in q bit farther.
nope. it is a miniramp. a half life pipe is 90° on the top. so when you put two half pipes together you get a pipe. a miniramp isnt that steep at the top. that's the difference. the 90° part is the reason why it is way more difficult to skate in a half pipe than in a miniramp.
Ivan Izquierdo You put the ramp outside with Masonite in South Florida? Skatelite or ramp Armor will work outside but they are expensive. Just use plywood and waterproof the wood.
shoot what do you say to using nails to secure the 2x4s and screws on the surfacing? the screws are so much more expensive and i feel like you use nails on the skeleton instead. someone help
i used 1/4th inch plyood and it started warping and bowing after onetime raining on it so I took it off and used 3/8ths inch plywood and now it has done the same thing just not as bad. How do I fix this or prevent it from happening again? It bows up between every screw, and makes the ramp lumpy and wavy.
use more screws so theres not so much space between them. put a screw every 4 or 5 inches this way theres now room inbetween screws for the wood to swell and buckle.
I tried that but it was still wavy and in one spot is warped with enough power to pull a 2x4 through the side wall. I had to fix that and then I put a 1/2 inch layer on time of pressure treated and its been fine, but there is one sheet thats chipping off so we are now putting a top layer of metal.
Charles Oxendine yea presser treated is the way to go it doesn't rott and its already soaked thru with the chemicals so it won't swell I just didn't think they made it in plywood haha. the metal sounds like a good idea to
AP tattoos Yeah, it was surprisingly cheap too, $22 a sheet at my local lowes, so its not much more than the non treated. They have 3/4 inch too but its like $34 a sheet and probably nearly impossible to bend. The only issue now is that since its pine its soft so doing blunts and landing hard on one sheet as made dents which then start cracking and the top layer is chipping away, but its only that one sheet so I think it may be defective. If I had to do it over again I would have just used 2 layers of the half inch and use the 3/4 inch as my side walls so they wouldn't rot and theyd be super strong.
Charles Oxendine hey man as long as it works your good to go. you should put up a video of your shredding on it I kinda wanna see what this thing looks like haha.
the math for transition thickness 2 pcs 3/4 inch ply plus 46 1/2 will equal 48 inches. plywood width , 3/8 plywood x2 equal 3/4 so 3/4 flat deck will line up with transition with double layer 3/8 plywood do math or take measurements on where you put the screws so when you put the masonite on you dont run into screws and use a countersink for screws
you should water proof it with wood oil that will protect the Masonite but the down side is is that once a year you will have to oil it again and you wont be able to ride on it for like 8 hours (or until its dried) this is how i protect all my wooden stuff. hope this helps.
well, since you can't really sacrifice the length of the transition your best bet would be making the flat bottom five feet shorter. Given that would make the ramp significantly harder to skate, but then any ramps you skate with more room become much easier.
The word is that Hyezmar (google him) is going to change his mind and sell his plans, but as of today they're still available to download, you’re welcome :D
Ive priced all the lumber at homedepot to be around $300. Thats without the screws, but that shouldnt be that much more. If you look around i'm sure you can find better prices on lumber for it all.
I found an offer nearby of 75 wooden beams of approx that length for 100$ (Second hand). You could build 2 ramps with that. And the plywood wood well maybe 50 to 100$ second hand as well...not to mention a lot of it you can find in the waste containers outside woodworks, or in abandoned houses etc...
I found an offer nearby of 75 wooden beams of approx that length for 100$ (Second hand). You could build 2 ramps with that. And the plywood well maybe 50 to 100$ second hand as well...not to mention a lot of it you can find in the waste containers outside woodworks, or in abandoned houses etc...
