I wish I would have had your instructions when I started my walls. I did pretty well anyway and am proud they are all standing and of no problems. We do have the same block available in Australia but I have seen hollow walls on USA programs that I have not yet seen here, Allens blocks etc. they make good sense to me as well. Very good instructions!!
Thank you for the video! And for showing the viewers alternate solutions to cutting/splitting stones *without* the use of a stone-cutting saw. While all parts of the video were useful to me, these 2 suggestions were the most useful to me (my project is so small, purchasing or even renting a stone cutter would be wasteful on so many levels).
My house is a stilt house . The foundation is made from ironwood. There is a puddle under my house. Puddles arise from the rain. I want to close the gap under my house. What should I do? If I make a brick wall around the gap under my house, can the brick wall hold the ground in front of it? I plan on filling my entire home page with the ground to make my house yard become higher.
Filter fabric will become plugged and hold water, dramatically increasing the weight of the fill. This may cause the wall to fail. Allow water to drain through the wall.
@@LehewTech I feel like this is what the homeowner before me did - it's just soil and fabric, and the wall just blew out, which is why I'm looking for guidance. Every other video uses a lot of gravel underneath and behind for drainage.
@@jesseellis6981 Remove the soil and fabric and put a 4 inch pvc pipe with lots of holes drilled in it behind the wall. Put big rocks on each end to keep soil out of the pipe, then backfill with gravel, not the soil you took out. Use that soil in the garden where you want to hold water.
@@markjohnson8824 I’m building an 8 foot long wall that comes out from my house. It will be about 3 feet high. This is so I can have a patio under my rear deck. The ground slopes away from house sharply in the 8 feet. If I put the perforated tubing down alongside the outside of the wall does the water enter it from the top and just seep down into the rock below or is the bottom of the tubing solid (no holes) causing the water to enter the tube then run through the tube and out the end? If this is the case how can I place the end of this tube in my yard ? Can I just have it end below ground into a bed of rock that I then cover with dirt and grass? Thanks
I did smaller ones 12 years ago its still standing and level. Bout to embark on a double layer one about 25 feet long 3 stones high. the important part is getting the paver base level and Tamped down it might take a while, but its worth it. After the first row its a cake walk
Hey I have a question not sure how often you all check your RU-vid comments, but I’m current doing my first retaining wall and it’s on a slight hill right on the edge of my drive way I’m laying my first layer and it’s always slightly off to the left so I get it even then move on to the next stone and same difference I get that one fixed as well but when I check them both or even three it’s not leveled am I over-thinking because it’s on a slight hill or should I keep adding rock sand etc ?
I don't bury a row (waste of time and money), I dig down about 1 1/2" to 2" and lay in 1' of 1/4" minus gravel for leveling, lay out the first row leveling as you go, the next row is glued down with construction adhesive, yes each and every stone. When you use this method you never have to worry about settling, it all becomes one unit and is ridgid, I like to top it off with a matching capstone,and make two cuts on each stone so the backs line up perfect with about an 1" to 1 1/4" overhang..
I plan to follow this instructions to build a wall that is about 2 feet high and 80 feet long. I am in Northern California where it does not rain very much if at all. If I don't use a drain system, and back fill the wall with rocks and broken cement pieces, is the wall going to have any problem?
I don't think it will it's not big enough, my husband and I just build one around 3 feet high following these steps on video, I do recommend though just to be on the safe side to add that drainage gravel
I want to build a planter bed up against an existing cmu block wall. with these stones. Anyone know how much dirt you can put up against a property line cmu block wall? It appears to be concrete filled and reinforced with rebar.
Hey mate, I'm not an expert - I have been reading lots on the web and I'm currently building three retaining walls. I have run agriculture pipe at the bottom of my wall and installed geotech fabric to separate the dirt and the fine course of rocks that sit against the wall. This is important in my case because I have built a 1.2 metre high wall. See this video for instructions: watch?v=A3vGCTOmK2w
UNILOCK'S PISA WALL IS THE BEST FOR A WALL...........UNILOCK IS THE BEST, AND NOBODY COMES CLOSE TO THE QUALITY AND SERVICE OF UNILOCK...........FORGET PAVESTONE PRODUCTS.............UNILOCK IS NUMBER ONE FOR SURE !!!
when building my retaining wall I experienced the level front to back would be off when stacking each row. The base row was level side to side and back to back and set in trench properly with ledge pack and sand - when I would get to about row 3 the level front to back is off - the bubble is telling me to lift the rear of the stone. Is this typical for this type of project? I am setting the rear lip of the stone off the block underneath but, the level is not consistent?
if the blocks are hollow on the inside, dont use them, as they will fail over time. the constant freeze/thaw of the soil will cause the wall to fail and collapse. Use solid stones as shown in the video
Hollow blocks with no sand or soil inside will not fail because of freeze-thaw; they may fail because they are lighter and less resistant to sliding or tipping than heavier solid block. Correct base and drainage layer behind the wall, and sufficient batter of the wall face back into the slope, will keep the wall standing.
Tilting slightly back into the slope is part of what makes a dry-laid wall stable. Gravity keeps it falling backward against the retained soil, and the whole system will last longer. Manufactured block companies have to tell you to make the blocks totally level because that is the only way their products can turn corners or curves.
I used this video to build my retaining wall. Then a friend that is in landscaping asked if I put a drain in. But, I didn't will the gravel back fill be enough for water drainage?
That depends on how much water you get, what the character of your drainage layer is, and how easily the water can drain away from the base of the wall. Also how much freezing you get in the winter, and how tall your wall is.
gjh42 god damm man you have useful information in each comment. Thanks I appreciate it. We use type 5 I’ve heard good things about 3/4 gravel what other options are their?
Pea gravel being smooth and round will never pack solid and rigid. Compacting will just squash it out from under the compactor. Crushed stone (jagged) makes a stable base when compacted.
good luck building this in california , costa mesa the city is a bitch and i guess a retaining wall that is under 2 ft is too dangerous and they want an engineer to create plans for that
I have seen retaining walls of even less than 2' high failing, so a taller one if not built correctly could be dangerous. An engineer with stamped plans is overkill, but it is the easiest way for the city to ensure that retaining walls are safe. Of course that doesn't help competent builders do a job for modest cost.
Instructions are contradictory. They say for tall walls, dig 8" and bury a full block. One Pavestone block product is 6" tall, so that would leave 2" for base material. Yet the video also says for tall walls, use 4" of base material. It would be nice if they'd make up their minds.
@@goodingwashington6099 Paver sand for starters. Sand shouldn't even be on the job site. Also you never put the fabric against the wall and then the stone. The stone goes against the wall and the fabric separates it from the soil.
+Johnny Gee Depending on your geogrpahic area you need a much deeper base. If you live in a cold climate you want atleast an 8" base to ensure freeze and thaw will not affect the wall. Warmer climates that shouldnt be too much of an issue
