Here is a follow-up video to update this video and answer some questions I have received: • Retaining Wall Update ... This video will demonstrate how to build a simple retaining wall in just three days.
Thank you. I have a similar side of the house, with a slope . I have all my materials ready but I need it a guide to how to do it. And this video is exactly what I was looking for. This video es simple , well explain and short.
*Nice feature in your video at the end when you showed the before with the after.* I wish more people did that in their vids (and I may suggest it to them if it seems appropriate.) *Nice looking, sturdy retaining wall*
Thank you for sharing and explaining… I’ve been wanting to put a retaining wall in my front yard but wasn’t really sure how b/c I’m on a slope but Ty for explaining. I think I’ll give it a try!
Would it help to stagger the block so that the edges touch? In other words, flip every other block, or does stagger stacking them (as you've done) achieve the same thing?
I think I know what you are saying. You mean flip them front to back so the small end is facing front every other block? That won't work because the block has a lip on the back edge to keep it from sliding forward, so they can only be set in that direction. Hope that makes sense.
I'm looking to build something like this at home so I appreciate this video. Question though: Where do you expect the water behind the wall to go? I didn't see any perforated drain pipe or landscape cloth.
A good rule of thumb is 4 feet. If a wall is 4 feet or higher from foundation to top you NEED a drainage pipe. But you can can always add one if you choose if you just want to be really safe. I probably should have mentioned that in the video. The gravel under and behind my wall wall will help the smaller amount of water drain. And the fabric helps keep dirt out of the gravel. But again, with the size of my wall, not much of an issue.
I did not use adhesive., but you definitely can. My wall is only a few rows high, but if I were going to make one 4 feet high or so, I would use the adhesive. Also, the pea gravel is to help water drain behind the wall.
Sure no problem. Here are the bricks: www.homedepot.com/p/4-in-x-11-75-in-x-6-75-in-Pewter-Concrete-Retaining-Wall-Block-81100/100333178 And here is the pea gravel: www.homedepot.com/p/Vigoro-0-5-cu-ft-Bagged-Pea-Gravel-Pebbles-54255/202523000
I've heard of using a thin layer of paver sand on top of the paver base just to make leveling easier, but I wouldn't even recommend that. The sand can settle down into the gravel and cause settling. I would personally rather stick with the paver base. Just my two cents. I would never use just the sand.
Anything around 1/4 inch or a little bigger is good for behind the wall. You can go smaller than that for the base, but you don't want to get smaller than that behind the wall. You don't need to compact it behind the way, you want it to be able to drain. You should pack down the base underneath, though. Nice bass by the way.
@@fixitFlip dang it’s hard to find any ventilation systems like that now a days, it would be nice if I could add one in my basement to always have fresh air. Any suggestions on what I could do? Thank you.
@@ahtesamulhaque7507 If you have any windows in your basement you can just use some fans to pull in some fresh air. If not you could use a dehumidifier.
@@fixitFlip I have 2 windows which are the typical 31” x 13.75” block windows. Only 1 of them has a small block window vent. It’s not that effective to open that small vent and use a fan to suck out the air. What would you recommend I do in my case?
great job, i subs'd. y didn't u use a cement glue? also, the first layer, any reason you didn't use quick concrete ontop of the gravel for more stableness?
From my experience the lip on the back keeps them from sliding forward at all. Now could the top layer fall back if you really kicked them? Maybe but the dirt pretty much holds them in place. My toddlers walk across them while playing and they don't move much due to the weight of rocks. I can see how with a bigger wall you would want to be more sure about it and add the glue. With mine just being a few rows high, I have just never had any issues with them moving personally. I've never tried the concrete on the gravel. Again I've just never had the need for it. Thanks for the sub!
@@ItalianTank750 Ideal base material for drainage would be gravel or stones about 1/4 to one inch in size. If the screening is smaller then that, it might still work as a base, but you might want to add some bigger gravel behind the wall.
@@fixitFlip hi. So it wouldn’t be wise to put 4 inches of limestone screening (looks like sand) then pavers? Or should i do 4 inches of crushed 1/4 gravel then pavers? I am making a 2 row flower bed wall
Just lightly power-wash all the bricks on your old retaining wall to make them uniform. I do that every other year. Then you could even seal them if you wanted to.
@@fixitFlip Ok. I asked because i have to Make a Wall (3 rows, 45 cm High Max) and i see people do it in 400 different ways. Would you recommend just gravel on The bottom, gravel behind The Wall against The dirt and No sand ?
In all honesty when I am leveling the dirt, I am not trying to get it perfectly level. I just want it to be pretty close. I just don't want 6 inches of gravel in one spot and one inch of gravel in another spot. If that makes sense. The most important part of it is probably the tamping so the ground is not super loose and then settles later.
nice wall but what is going on with that basement window? No window well! Where do you think, with your wall, that water is going to go? with your post, you just dumped it into his basement.
Do you mean the water out of the downspout/sump pump drains? Or rain water? There is gravel for drainage under and behind the wall. And I ran extensions off both pipes after building the wall.
