Good job, I just did exact same process but 8x14 with the 24" pavers from HDepot. Only additional tips I could give someone to consider who are going to pursue the same project are: Use a C grade PT wood for better ground contact resistance / Use poly-sand instead of regular so it hardens, seals, bonds and doesn't wash away as easy / 3rd would be getting a perfectly square 2x6 and notch it on the ends to the depth of the paver so you can run it across the wood frame to level the final sand layer. This method used here can turn out to be a very solid base for a shed or even just an easy patio.
Thank you for your video, I'm going to do the same in the next days for my new shed, for shure I will see your video again and again to get all the details. Thank you so much!
Good job. Especially in 4-6 hours in OSHA approved flip-flops (!) I built a small patio several years ago, using treated lumber at grade because I am on rock and clay. I chained together 24x24 squares from 2x4s, screeded in sand, and used the same 12x12 pavers four in each space. I was amazed that in far less than 10 years the lumber rotted out anyway. No more ground contact wood for me.
Thanks! We will see how the pressure treated wood holds up. I have built decks that touch the ground and they have held up very well. It would probably be a good idea to treat the wood with copper naphthenate to increase its life.
I am looking to build a base for our 8x15 shed. I have no idea what I am doing, so this helps alot. Would the weight of a lawn mower or snow blow cause the base to become undevel?
@@matthewwilliams9590 not if you build a solid base of compacted rock, paver base, sand, and pavers. You could park a car on it and it would stay level :)
I'm curious as to why the preference is so often wood (even pressure treated)? What about using cinder block to create a raised bed, with rebar and quick-set cement for reinforcement? (I see blocks so little I'm wondering if there is some major disadvantage I don't know about?) A lot of how-to guides will also suggest putting in weed barrier beneath a gravel layer and extending out the perimeter 12" away from the drip line around the roof on all sides to prevent mud (splash back) and weed growth right up against the sides of the shed. However, in my experience weed barrier doesn't allow for adequate air flow. (I have found entire colonies of termites and other creepy crawlies under moisture-logged barriers so not a fan.) I prefer the idea of using pavers, as shown in this video, because it will allow for water drainage and serve as a natural weed block (better than gravel over weed barrier, IMO). However, so many how-to guides discourage pavers beneath sheds as opposed to gravel or a poured-concrete pad. How come?
Awesome video , Sir. If you don't mind, could you please make a list of the materials you had to purchase, including saws, hammers, etc. I'm a new DIY on the block, and knowing what materials I need would help me tremendously. Oh, and listing the brand names would suffice as well. That's if you don't mind. Thank you so much, and have a blessed day.
Hello, I’m again. Finally the temp has come down to below 100. Inspired by your method I decided to move on. I have started compacting my ground. Like to get your advice. The place where I’m building my shed, it’s under a big tree (I was not allowed to use other places 😅) and the slope of my backyard is toward that direction. Questions: Can I use those 12x12 concrete patio stone as the base, so there will be two layers of patio stones. If not, can I use pea gravel instead of drainage rocks? I’m also little worried about the invisible roots of the tree; what will they do in future. Any advice is appreciated. BTW, my shed is 9x7.😊
I would use pea gravel as your base - I think that would work the best! As long as the roots aren't exposed I wouldn't think you would have any major issues since you will be building an elevated base. Good luck with your project and please feel free to reach out if you have any other questions. Thanks!
Few questions please, -Why pavers instead of concrete slab? -What were the total cost for materials? -What sand and gravel brands/type were those? -How has it held up since, any sinking or leaning? Thanks!
I didn't want to put something as permanent as a concrete slab and figured this would be the best alternative. Total materials cost was around $250 but I got my paver base and sand from a local wholesale stone distributor so I saved a lot of money there. It has held up perfectly so far - no leaning or sinking whatsoever. You can also coat the pressure treated wood with Coppercoat Wood Preservative. That would help protect against wood rot down the road. Hope this helps!
Thank you for the video. I will watch it again (and again), though I already watched it few times; since I have a plan to build a shed. That’s why I need a base and you showed me “how”. Thank you again. I may not get any extra hands, have to do it by myself. So your video will help me a lot. One question though - may I get the link of the shed which you bought or at least the name of it, please? Thank you.
I'm glad it helped! The shed I used is actually discontinued now. It was this one: www.homedepot.com/p/Suncast-Vista-7-ft-x-7-ft-Resin-Storage-Shed-BMS7702/302345861 Here is a similar shed of the same size: amzn.to/43Oewj4
I like the video but I would recommend not putting so close to the fence line. Usually there are utilities in the last 3-5 feet near the edge of property lines. Also if you give yourself 5-6 feet spacing you can run a lawnmower or weedwacker behind the shed. Otherwise the weeds growing between the shed and fence will make you mad later.
Thanks for your comment! In this circumstance, I didn't really have a choice as there wasn't much room to work with. There are no underground utilities in this part of my property, so I shouldn't have any problems. I'll spray roundup down the sides if I have to ;)
I would say 5-6 feet is pretty excessive for people with small yards especially since most backyards never have underground utilities aside from the crappy cable companies drop line (service) lines that they are too cheap to locate anyway since it’s just cheaper for them to fix them when they are cut. I left 24” between my back fence and shed so it’s just enough to fit the mower through or trimmer without taking up the whole yard. If you’re digging with a shovel just below the roots of the lawn there should be no reason to be afraid of utilities anyway. If so, then you should already have locates anyway if you think you are going to hit something or build something on top of an old sewer pipe that already needs replacing.
The only issue I see, at the end of the video, camera angles aren’t always accurate, but it looks like the right side of the shed roof will drain over the fence into the neighbours yard? Easily fixed with some jerry rigged eavesthrough but definitely not allowed in many places if it does drain onto a neighbours property.
Great vid! Would the sand get washed away with the rain if the shed was not covering it completely? I am installing Rubbermaid 7x7 but was considering a base of 8x8. Concerned that sand within pavers would get washed away.
Thanks! I don’t think that would be an issue. The cracks between the pavers are small and once you sweep the sand in between them it pretty much stays put.
I initially had the same thought. If material is paver base and not sand, I think water typically activates the base and hardens it up. Fingers crossed 🤞
If the area I’m using is mostly grass, do you recommend me digging it up to prevent weeds or just do this right on top? Because your area is mostly dirt already
Paver base is a crushed rock/shell material that forms a solid base that, when compacted, won’t sink over time. The paver sand is added after the base so that you can create a smooth level surface to lay the pavers on. You could skip the sand, but it will be very difficult to make all your pavers level.
Thanks! We will see how the pressure treated wood holds up. I have built decks that touch the ground and they have held up very well. It would probably be a good idea to treat the wood with copper naphthenate to increase its life. I didn't want to put something as permanent as concrete and figured this was the next best thing.
Hi, I m planning to build a foundation like that, my shed is the same size as yours. May I ask why do u need to anchor down those 8 sticks? I hope it is not that hard to build it since I am a woman and no help at all. Thanks.
Hi there. Good question - I used the stakes to hold the wooden frame in place and to keep it level. I think that anyone can tackle this project. It would help a lot to have another set of hands though! Thanks!
Basically they're acting as chair legs. The shovel lifts the frames and the level uses bubbles to tell you "Hey, i'm exactly level where you need me to be." Don't forget to make bubble say you're very slightly tipped up when screwing in, so when you set back down, the weight will solve it and you won't be left with a tiny .01* tilt, not that it matters much.
Thanks a lot. That’s what I thought; but wanted to make sure. I was debating to use 4x4 pressure treated in all 4 sides; or just build a concrete side with 4 inch deep and 6 inch wide; then use screw to attach.
I'm glad it helped! The shed I used is actually discontinued now. It was this one: www.homedepot.com/p/Suncast-Vista-7-ft-x-7-ft-Resin-Storage-Shed-BMS7702/302345861 Here is a similar shed of the same size: amzn.to/43Oewj4
