Thank you Keith very in-depth video. I am using different 8 mm acme style threaded rod similar to 3-D printers. I will comment on my Settings when it’s done probably sometime in November or December.
Hello there, "rasciodc" from RC Groups here! Nice to see you are putting the pieces of software and code I wrote to good use! They work ok but are quite outdated now and actualy I've come up with some better newer alternatives. Let me know if you are interested. Meanwhile, I have a question for you. Have you not tried the FoamXL Excel spreadsheet? I see you spending a lot of time simulating the cuts on the controller software. The spreadsheet allows you to simulate the cuts quickly (you choose the speed in which you want to see the simulation) and the graphs show you both the profile of the cuts and the path of the gantry! Congrats on the video series and on spreading the knowledge!
Hi Daniel, first of all, many thanks for the fantastic code the build videos wouldn't have been possible without you. I'd be very interested in the newer alternatives something I was thinking of looking into. I did try the Foam XL spreadsheet but I don't have Microsoft Excel. I did try it on LibreCalc and GoogleSheets but couldn't get it to work. I've just tried it on the online version of Excel at Office.com but not sure that works either. Thanks once again. Keith
@@ravik50992 When the Arduino connects and the steppers are powered on that's is machine zero (origin) you can then jog the axis to the foam and set work zero. Have a look around 24 mins in the video and you see how I jog the wire and zero the axis. Hope that explains it Keith
Exactly what i had in mind! Great job, fantastic! Do you think this can be done with a lighter set up? I was thinking of using: 1 - 28byj-48 stepper motor, uln2003, timing belts instead of nema17, ramps, lead screws 2 - Towers can be shorter as most models won't require more than 20 cm on the Z axix
You would have to build lighter towers and then it could be OK. But I wouldn't like to say for certain. If you already have the parts then it's worth trying.😀
@@eduardomorais4113 yes, they work great and the build is light and neat - the only challenge was that the Z axis was too slow with a standard m3 threaded bar, so I bought these on amazon instead: www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07TGD4PQ5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I’m very confused about changing the axis. My Y, Z, and U are all backwards. My stepper motors didn’t come with ends so I wired them to the ramps as follows. Red 2B, Blue 2A, Green 1A, and Black 1B to match what I believe yours are in your video. Do I change all the numbers of the axis that are backwards to one? How do I get the decimal value of the binary word?
Hi Jake The simplest way to do this is swap one pair of the wires, so just switch 2B and 2A around and that shoud do it. If you want to do it in firmware just put the binary value in to this online converter www.rapidtables.com/convert/number/binary-to-decimal.html and it will give you the decimal value.
Hi Keith: Going over the calibration on my steppers. With the trouble I have had getting the steppers to move and not rattle I found that if I put in all 3 jumpers the motors were stronger and had a lot of torque. I checked the 8825's and it says the they are different on the needed jumpers and 2 jumpers are 1/16 and all 3 are1/32 steps which does not make since! Anyway, the steps come up very short even though I changed the $100-$103 numbers using the calculator. It still only moves 1/2 of the distance and the motors just rattle, and when the numbers are lowered they move with high torque. In this video you said to change the numbers in the Arduino files. Remember that I went back to the old files because I could not get things to work. So my question is, do I need to change the numbers in the arduino files as I am using the old file and if I try the new files again will I need to do it in the arduino files for that version? I have changed the coil wires and directions so many times I have confused myself so bad....... Just wanted to check with you on the arduino files before I mess anything more up!!!! Thanks for all your help. I keep telling the wife I am going to leave you alone but, I guess you would have to say I LIED to her. Thanks again and have a nice weekend - stay safe....Don
Hi Don Sometimes the Arduino doesn't update the settings in the EEPROM seems to happen if you've had any errors. When you make a change disconnect from the Arduino and re-connect and see if it has the new settings. Sometimes the EEPROM can get messed up and you can clear it out a couple of ways. In the Arduino IDE use the serial monitor to send $RST=* that should clear it and then give it another try. Keith
@@rckeith Thanks again for your time. I reloaded everything. The motors turn if I use 1/32 steps. If there was only some setting that would run the same speed but for twice as long without changing the amount of steps I would be good. Thanks again. Don
Could you input the profile of a plane fuselage at stations and cut thin bulkheads for putting foam between for shaping a plane with Jedicut? I was considering taking a planes side profile and stations and try to get g codes for all these and input them into jedicut and cut these pieces and glue them together. Can Jedicut do this or do all the cuts need to be one smooth line to work. Considering it cuts spars I would think it would be possible, but I am not sure. Could you possibly show how you would do a station cut of something like your jet just behind the intakes (just to give you a challenge)? Thanks. Thanks for taking the time to try to show us how to do and make all this equipment and planes.
Hi Don It may be possible but a lot of work and could be error-prone. Probably the best way would be to use a CAD program to generate DXF profiles for the sections of fuselage. There are a few free ones. So where there is a change in the outline shape of the fuselage you would need two profiles for each. Jedicut can import DXF files and it would be treating them as root and tip. DevFus Foam is the best for this but as you are probably aware it's not free, maybe ask Santa to bring you one. I always try to use free when I can but you can use up a lot of time and not get what you after. Hope that helps a bit, if I get time I may try to do something like that with Jedicut but I have a long list of outstanding projects to get through. Keith
I flashed the firmware using Mac via avrdude and things seems to be working fine. Is there a way to reverse the direction of the motors without without modifying the code directly. Maybe a gcode value
@@rckeith thanks for this. Unfortunately I dont have access to a windows pc for a short while . Is there any plans to release a mac version of the software ?
Hi Keith, I was looking at getting a laser cutting for balsa ribs etc but those ones that banggood sell and 2 axis, Do people mod them to use for foam wing cores? that way I can use the machine for both, Cheers Brett
Hi Brett. I've not heard of anyone using them but looking at one they have I don't see why you couldn't but you'd need 2 and then use a RAMPS board with Arduino 2560 to control it. The only thing is the weight of the axis with the laser on it once you turn it upright might cause some issues. Keith
The frame parts are cheap to buy here and the corner brackets so maybe make the frame, and remove the laser gantry and replace with hotwire gantry depending what you are cutting, one problem i see is trying to keep the wire tight unless you do your cutting at one end to help stop the frame pulling in, Brett
@@kermets you don't need very much tension on the wire because the wire cuts by melting the foam away. If you have the current and feed rate correct. You could if possible add some brackets to the frames and then screw them on to a wooden base. Keith
Have a look on my website on this page has the settings I use www.rckeith.co.uk/how-to-use-jedicut-g-code-with-grbl-4-axis-cnc-foam-cutter/ It works fine with these settings
Sorry I don't sell them but you can build your own with the free ebook and plans($5) www.rckeith.co.uk/how-to-build-a-usb-cnc-hot-wire-foam-cutter/ If you really want to buy one then Vortex-RC sell a kit www.vortex-rc.com/product/4-axis-diy-hot-wire-cnc-for-rc-hobbyists-aeromodellers-and-designers/
Did anyone use the Greenbox GPX charger to power the wire? My charger in NiCd battery mode periodically reduces the current to 0A. I can't maintain a constant temperature.
I use 0,4mm diameter nichrome wire. Current between 2-3A. It cuts various kinds of foam well, but charger switches off the power for a few seconds periodically.
@@szymonwojcik1926 I use the iCharger 206B and this has a foam cut option. I think most mid to high range chargers do. Some of the Turnigy Reaktor's have a foam cut option and maybe a bit cheaper.
