How to Build a Wood Fence in Under 6 Hours 

This video is is awesome. Should be the top viewed video for steel post fence

I appreciate your video...I've done metal post fences before but that was about 20 years ago, so it was cool to see what's new and what might be exactly what I'll be building. This is exactly the type of fence I need. Thanks.

Awesome video👍 i got a quote on an installed fence and thanks to covid, prices are way up and wait times for supply were so unattractive im doing it myself and upon researching diy i found postmaster posts. What a simple and brilliant invention.

Really great!! Thanks!

Those poor pickets are doomed to live of warpdum. One more stringer please. He he

Driving post like that they should be utilizing the entire 8' of postmaster post and driving to a string line mark on the post to keep the height consistent. Any privacy fence 6' tall should have at least 3 rail without question. Using a hybrid method of driving-concrete at 24" is probably not good. They could have got longer post and drove to 30-36" deep and been fine, or dug to 24" and used all concrete, or dug to 24" and drove an extra 8-10 inches like our company does and used concrete for the 24" dug. Half effort pounding and Half effort setting in concrete is just half. Also if your going to have a 16' span 2x6 lumber should have been used. Using a top picket jig such as a MR. Fence Straigt away would have made it an even crisper top than eye-balling to a string line where you can clearly see in the video were the string line has come off the top of the pickets on some and not others. While its a nice fence it's not a professional job.

I use the same metal posts, and did it 90% the same method. I am a DIYer and it looked amazing.

I used the same kinds of posts. The only difference is that I used expanding foam for the footing instead of concrete. Works just as great without the backaches. The city uses foam for telelphone poles so they must be strong.

Not bad. Maybe a little too much picket sticking up past your top rail. Hard to judge from a video. We try to go 6 inches or less to help control warping. Overall good job especially for the amount of time spent.

Excellent, great video. I've built a few board-on-board privacy fences, but to hear your "play-by-play" description was perfect. Great details. My only critique would be to use three horizontal rails instead of two. And I'm a fan of including a 2x6 top cap (treated) with my privacy fence; it forces one to place the top rail as far up as possible, which makes the three rails efficient in keeping the boards straight in the long run. Otherwise, I really loved this video. Congrats!

26 years old been bulding fences for my father since I can remember and Ive never ever see some one use a jack hammer to break dirt but every one works different and fence on brother

About to install some fence myself and came accross this video that left me with few questions. Why do you drive and dig holes for postmaster posts ? Can't you just drive them ? Ones I found in HD and lowes are 8 ft so I'm planning to drive 2 feet without digging. Also distance between top of the picket and top rail is over 6 inches and I heard it tends to warp. Is yours still holding straight ? And thanks for sharing this vid.

Why wouldn't you put a third 2x4 across the middle of the fence for extra strength especially on a fence that high?

Nice tips. I think that covering the stainless steel brace on the backside with one more board of planking would make it attractive when looking at it from the opposite side so you don’t have the metal frame and just see all wood.

Hello, thanks for all of your fantastic posts ! Really appreciate you taking the time to give such great informative videos. How is the fence looking after a year ?

Wow, only 6 hours.. I just ordered two of these metal posts. Never tried them before but if they work and last they are worth it.

I'm not a big fan of only putting the concrete in the first 10 inches or so of the hole. The galvanizing process on the steel post actually interacts with the concrete to create a barrier that prevents water and air from getting to the steel and thereby preventing rust. If done right, meaning no part of the post touches soil, then these things can absolutely last 40-50+ years before rust finally sets in (it always does but can be delayed). By only filling the top 10 inches or so you're leaving a lot of post exposed to the soil and groundwater and even air, especially after bugs, plant roots, and fungus start to meander around it. That will cause the posts to rust faster below the cement, at that point you'll only have 10 inches of support and the fence will fail. Best way to install any galvanized post is to fill the hole with concrete deeper than the post will be will be and then put the post into the wet concrete and level it from there. Try not to push the post too deep and then pull up as that can create an air pocket underneath it which decreases the strength of the posts hold. Essentially, you want the entire below grade post to be touching the concrete which is an advantage of the postmaster over round pipe as it's surface area is easier to get full contact as the pipe isn't always going to have concrete in the inner void.

2 more hours/ 8 hour day would have made a huge difference on quality of work

Curious in the point of cutting those posts shorter? The closer to the top of the picket the better. Looks like it has a lot of picket over that top rail.

Awesome! I plan to build a fence with the same posts here. I also have some turns in my yard. We’re the posts easy enough to bend slightly to accommodate the turns in the fence?

Fast and cheap explains the huge gap at the bottom. A little quality/pride in your build would go along way especially since this is on youtube. I feel that companies that build a fence tailored to the land are far better than the company that builds them this way.

Common 2x4 are only 1 1/2" thick. Those Postmaster posts extend 1 5/8" beyond the flat landing (the top hat in cross section). So using what around here are called "rough cut" gets you a true 2 " thick. Hawever they are considerably more expensive. I have contemplated using 1" stanless steel washers to puch out that extra 1/8". Have not actually done that yet. Any thoughts?

Nice thought but many of those pickets will warp on the top. You need three rows of 2x4s for the frame

Actually looks crappy. What is the length from top of the first rail to the top of picket?

Nice. I would love to see where is could rent that post hole driver.

Does the drive adapter come with the post driver or was that a special order

Although it’s a very creative solution to how to get the post in the ground, I wonder if frost heave will be an issue in what ever part of the country you’re in? I have seen videos post pounding chainlink posts without concrete, this is the first hybrid version I’ve seen online. In my part of the country it’s wet and rainy half the year at least. All my customers want 2’ of concrete due to stability in the clay. For that reason I dig out to full depth. I enjoyed the creativity of them using the jackhammer on soil. I use a 6” hand digging bar or water. To break up the soil. I save the jackhammer for concrete breaking. Definitely different use. Gas powered auger is fast. Many people don’t like them though. Lots of twisting injuries. Some contractors won’t use them. Just hand dig. That’s why I liked the jackhammer idea. Pretty heavy though.

What size were the post u installed, 7’6” or 8”? Please

I really like the concrete top 10" plus drive 14 technique for stability in mud on top. Did you need an adapter to drive the 3.5" wide pole? What was the driver? Did you think about trimming the bottom to follow the terrain, or using a partially buried PT 2x8 and using shorter pickets to save some money and tighten up the ground gap? If you cover the back side steel post with a picket full height to look like a 4x4, wouldn't you want the leave the steel post long vs trimmed to top rail?

Never nail a fence! Deck screws only.

Just come in with the bobcat and bore the holes. So much faster and deep enough that way. No middle rail, just a cheap fence that won't last. Nails suck in both high wind, and if you have to replace a picket. To bad because the postmaster poles would have lasted a lifetime.

I’m building my own fence and following the grade bc I have a really hill backyard, 250’. I don’t get how people request a straight fence with uneven terrain. If I built mine corner post to corner post, I would have 8’ tall sections in some areas 😂

🔥🙏🏾

They left to much wood from the top rail wood could warp

You have to much picket sticking up over the top rail. It’s going to warp bad.

Where the attachment link for PGD3200?

Wow, it really doesn’t look very good. Like, a rush job. Did somebody actually pay for that? And were they happy with the result in the long run? I would be embarrassed to provide that job as a reference.

Pros use 3 rails. At least in Colorado I do.

Too much reveal at the top. The top will worp

where did you get those metal post?

Put those posts in a rocky ground

What if you have dogs???

That power driven post driver looks like a toy. A hand held post driver would sink a post in far less time and hassle, and if you drive a steel post in the ground, why dig up the soil for a hole then adding concrete. If the steel post is strong enough to withstand winds [dubious in Florida], then adding concrete around posts would not be necessary, and the post would be more likely to rust just above the concrete. Why only two rails instead of the standard three? Boards might be more likely to warp with only two rails. In Florida, I would use the steel post in conjunction with a wooden post, both together, for more strength against wind. But no concrete. I also wonder if the wooden rails attached to steel posts would rot more easily where wood touches steel?

That’s a cheap way to do it. 😂

I know this is old but he gave you a super deal because this fence is trash!

These dudes aren't pros🤣