I understand the use of modern insulating walls instead of thick layers of wood or red bricks. I understand that we say to ourselves with an electric sauna that the smoke evacuation is not necessary.. But now, there are major construction faults that will jeopardize the durability of this sauna and the health of its users. Traditionally for wood we chose a coniferous tree, a variety of fir tree, it is not an innocuous choice, this heated wood will emit substances, those of the fir tree have recognized medicinal properties and no harmfulness. All wood used must be untreated solid wood Even without smoke, the sauna must be constantly ventilated, no need for air conditioning, just a small low grid and a high one. Another thing is water, you must always have water, a small inner bucket can be enough to create the steam, but a second to cool the users would be a good thing. It would take a flow to evacuate the water to the ground, already just for the water when cleaning the sauna, otherwise it will deteriorate. Otherwise the sauna is very pretty, in Finland 80 ° c a sauna just turned on, the operating temperature 90 ° c-100 ° c and up to 110 ° c for the bravest. In the sauna we use small towels under the buttocks to protect ourselves and protect the wood, we whip ourselves with small flexible birch branches cleaned and soaked in fresh water. Good sauna sessions, we had competitions between us, the one who stays the longest, the shortest, with wages and rewards.
Sounds fantastic, thanks for the knowledge. I want to build a wood stove sauna in a steel shipping container, could you recommend what insulation I should use please ?
@@malmoran8643 I do not build saunas, I am not a construction pro, I have never used maritime containers. But from what I know from my research, rock wool and an aluminum vapor barrier are the generally recommended materials. A wooden frame with a ventilation space between the insulation and the wood slats, air must be able to circulate between the aluminum and the wood to eliminate the vapor. The sauna must be well ventilated on 2 sides of the wooden slat wall, the wood needs to breathe. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JsZe1DfEqds.html
@@ButterFly-zh8ho Thanks for taking the time to reply and that information you've given , what you've said makes sense and I will take a look at the link now 🙂
i work with wood and building saunas at least 10 years, sorry for my english, you did wrong because you need a space between foil and wood for air circulation ,at least 2-3cm.you will throw your wood away after 3 years,it will putrefy
Super clean build, it would be great to get walkthrough on parts used and overall summary of it. I’ll be trying to make one of these under my deck soon!
That sauna will be mould-ridden in three years max. You need to leave a ventilation space between the interior wood panelling and the reflectix. The reflectix doesn't work without airspace to throw heat back into - it's just an expensive vapour barrier without it. And with no way for moisture to evaporate, the wood panelling will be toast in a few short years. Many people from countries where saunas are rare make the mistake of thinking that saunas need to be airtight to work, but that's not the case. Quite the opposite is true.
hi Andreas, in Australia what vapour barrier do you need to use? i am building my sauna at the moment and i dont know if the bradford thermoseal is enough
When you say ventilation space, does it need to actually vent out to somewhere? Or do you just mean having a space between the panelling and reflectix -- but still keeping the overall room "air tight" ?
@@justinreels You want a space between your t & g and your vapor barrier. First, fasten 1" x 2" s to your frame-studs, then fasten your t & g to the 1" x 2" s.
...." from countries where saunas are rare make the mistake of thinking that saunas need to be airtight to work" That surely is the opinion I have made.
hello. love the video. building one right now under my porch too. 1 question how did you build the floor? is the cedar screwed to the concrete or did you frame out the floor and I didnt see? if so did you insulate the floor? thank you so much
Omg.... not only did you select the perfect location but you did an outstanding job! I love the interior lighting! You probably added a lot of value to your home. I would guess that cost you around $8,000 am I close??
What is the ideal distance between the insulation foil and the wood (the planks)? Moreover, can there be tiles on the floor or there's got to be planks instead (or tiles and planks on top of them)? Is 8kW electric heater good for a 1.5x1.5 sauna or will it be too much? Last - is the lack of a draining pipe/system a big no-no and is having it a must? I've noticed a lot of sauna places in my country (in hotels) don't have the draining system. I wonder why. Thanks!
It looks nice, but unfortunately it suffers from the same mistakes that nearly all suana builders here on YT seem to make. 1. Lack of water drainage. 2. Lack of ventilation, i.e. air inlet and outlet. Those two are essential and fixable and will give you a proper sauna.
A sauna needs plumbing for a tap and also it would be good to put in a shower; saunas get very wet when used. Neglecting this is only something non-Finns do. I throw water around in a sauna, a lot of which misses the rocks.
Hi there , boy have I learnt a bit about building saunas from the comments here on RU-vid. I live in the Australian sub tropics and is my sauna going to be different. Already thought of the tap/shower. Floor with suitable air gap between the timbers.
@@bernardkroeger4045 My father built saunas in all our houses; they also of course need a drain for the water--I'll be putting a sauna together in the lot my wife and I bought next door. Enjoy it when you get done--and no booze in the Sauna, that's a strict no no.
