Could you specify if the power Pro screws you used to fasten the stair stringers to the deck are structural? I was about to purchase but realized that the stringers hardware calls for structural screws given the weight it carries. Deck screws are too soft to hold up thar kind of weight.
Brent, the word "height" does not have an "h" on the end of it, like width does. It's kind of driving me crazy when you say it as heighth. Yes, I'm that guy, sorry bud, lol!
I know the fasteners were sponsored but you screwed your audience. (Pun intended) The brackets you installed require nails of the correct size or rated fasteners from Simpson Strongtie. There is more to this building stuff than “if the screw fits through the hole…”. In this load bearing solution the screw should be a sized to fill the hanger hole completely and rated for the use with special attention to the combo of shear strength, ductility and pull out resistance. And, you shouldn’t mix nails and screws in the same hanger. Now, some might ask, “but will it fail?” The answer, “maybe, maybe not.” Tough criticism since there’s also thoughts in comments about other errors that need correction. You did some things right but buried it in the middle of a bunch of not so good.
I legitimately use this channel to know how to NOT build things. This dude has gotta be the most Jerry rigged guy who has blind confidence in not knowing what he’s doing. My contractor friends and I LOVE watching him build things wrong
You are correct. By code, those screws cannot be used. Either nails or Simpson type fasteners only are allowed. This came from my building inspector. I had used those exact screws and when the inspection came, I had to change out all of those screws where ever I had used them on brackets
I'm sorry to be that guy, but height is pronunced "hite", not "hyth". As someone who suffers from auditory dyslexia, I made this mistake for decades. Otherwise, thank you for the informative video.
Won't people stub their toes on the exposed risers? HomeDepot 4 step risers give about an inch and a half overhang when using a 2x12" board. Going up just looks like a danger to me, kicking a riser would really ruin your day.
Yeah, I was surprised when began wrapping up the video. Hahaha, just imagining if kids would catch their feet running up these stairs. If anybody can actually explain why he left them exposed, that would be nifty.
Brent, thank you so much for showing us how to cut the stringers the correct way. There is nothing more irritating than seeing a contractor cutting through the angles past the lines. It just makes the stringer more prone to breaking. Great video!!!!
If your area gets icy - please, please please .... pretty please ... don't forget hand rails. Nothing says A&E quite like falling down the stairs and landing head first on concrete.
Just wondering why you used the proper Galvanized nails to attach the stringer straps to the bulkhead, but then at 12:16, you used the wrong, non-galvanized screws to attach the stringer straps to the stringer? Not supposed to mix the galvanized with non-galvanized anchors.
These are very good screws, but I don't believe that they are considered to be structural screws. Structural screws will have numbers stamped into the head of the screw that identify them. These don't seem to have this feature. I doubt that they would pass a code inspection, at least not in my area. The hangers have very specific requirements as to size and quantity of fasteners in order to meet specs, construction screws don't meet the specs.
Wouldn’t the first step (riser) height be 4-1/4” (instead of 5-1/4”) to account for the tread thickness in addition to the 1-1/2” of the 2x4 base plate? Final first step height would then be 1-1/2” base plate height + 4-1/4” + 1” tread = 6-3/4” (if the concrete will be the finished floor surface, that is).
yes he only needed one 2x4 notched into the bottom of the stringer that sits on the concrete and then subtract you tread material thickness. then use a sleeve anchor to anchor the stringers to the concrete. he way over complicated the process here.
I am sure its been mentioned but the stringer hangers are meant to be used with specific nails, not screws and the ends of the screws should not penetrate through the entire stringer. The shorter nails are usually sold right next to the hangers. Many screws do not have the shear strength to work in that type of hangar unless specified by the hanger manufacturer.
@@Michael-dh1xr Not exactly, not typical coated exterior screws for decking can be used for the hangers. They have no shear strength. Look at the instructions for the hangers. They use a beefed up hex head screw designed for shear (thicker than decking screws) or short nails specifically for the application as nails are strong in shear but longer nails go through the header which you do not want to happen. Only the diagonally nailed holes use “typical” nails.
This staircase will have open riser backs. Is that OK in most jurisdictions? It looks like if you were to add riser backs now, you would be left with insufficient tread nosing overhang.
You just made your first step 1" higher than the rest of the steps. 5 1/4" stringer height + 1 1/2" pressure treated base plate + 1" composit decking board = 7 3/4 from the finished concrete to top of the first step. Correct me if I'm wrong, but now your out of code.
Building code usual requires that a 4" ball must not fit between the stair treads in the riser. Typically the riser area should be closed out or have some blocking installed to prevent small children from getting caught in there. Lots of helpful building practices here. Thanks!
Man I love your videos but you need to follow the code already. I told you your retaining wall was 6” too high and needed a civil engineer last video. Now this one. You cut your first stringer wrong, you took the height of the base plate but forgot the height of the treads so the first step is 3/4” (depth of tread) too high. Second, your top step is a tripping hazard since it’s not the same height as the retaining wall tread. Thirdly, Timbertech’s website says for stairs to use 12” stringer spacing. Finally, with that many risers, you need a handrail. People watch these kinds of videos with no clue they are not done correctly.
Certified Building Inspector (IRC), Plans Examiner (IRC), Residential and Commercial Plumbing Inspector (Uniform Plumbing Code), and IterNACHI Certified Home Inspector here. First, I'd like to say I'm sure you mean well in your comments. Yet, there are some issues. First, a handrail is actually not required on these steps since these stairs are not used as the primary means of egress for this house. Would it be a good idea? Of course, but not required, especially with 48 wide steps. Second, you can tell Brent is not done with the landscaping around the stairs so the high difference on the bottom will be taken care of with either gravel or any other finishing work he wants to do. Third, if you presented plans to me or I went out to do an inspection and the retaining wall was only 6 inches higher than code....well, there is really no way I would call that out. From his video, before this, you can tell that the retaining wall is well built, strong, and will be around for decades. Last, Timbertech boards are strong and with a 14.5 inch spacing between the boards, there is no danger of failure for the stairs. I wish I could see this quality of work when I do inspections.
@@GoodlyEarth so you are saying if, as a building inspector, you saw the retaining wall was not to code, you wouldn’t say anything? As a licensed PE in 37 states, I showed that retaining wall to some civil/structural engineers I work with and they said there were issues with it. I also sent this video to the chief architect at my company and he said the same thing about the stairs.
@@jaydouglas1090 Man stfu, no-one really cares, the top step is barely 4mm and if you really watched any of his other videos you would know that he does the different "sections" (stairs, rails, ect.) in separate videos, and one more thing, go cry about it being 6 inches too tall somewhere else cause we don't wanna hear it
@@peteroconnell8764 next time I’m called as an expert witness in court due to someone not following building codes, I’ll tell them that you said it was ok. You can go look at other videos too, I have commented on code violations on them as well. I like his videos, but people who aren’t trained shouldn’t do stuff that can possibly kill others.
Great video! Been so loving this series. Question, do you need a moisture barrier between the concrete and the pressure treated wood at the bottom and the top? Noticed you just added it to the top of the supports. I have heard there is a lot of moisture when wood touches concrete even when it’s pressure treated. Just curious if it would matter long term. Great job on this build!!!
Great to hear Joshua and thanks so much for the support. Good question and you can add a moisture barrier but I didn't because I have the concrete slanted so moisture won't be sticking around long term.
The wood itself is treated, so no moisture barrier is needed. The reason some people use a barrier/tape product on top is because they cut the material and they believe that will allow the water to penetrate the material. However, the wood is soaked in the treatment and then dried before it is sent to the stores.
Not supposed to fill up all the holes on the underside of those straps - one or two only .The holes are there only because the strap is reversible. The fasteners on the side are carrying the load , use the proper strong tie nails or SD screws
Hard to take someone as an expert when they can't pronounce a simple, critical word like HEIGHT like the word EIGHT with an H in front (NOT HEIGHTH). There literally is no word pronounces HEIGHTH.
The Power Pro screws are NOT rated for the stair bracket. If that is a Simpson bracket then only Simpson approved fasteners are approved. If that is another brand of bracket then it will have its own approved fasteners. The Power Pro screws do not have sufficient Shear strength to support the stairs and or brackets.
I noticed that as well. I love PP deck screws, and use them all the time, but they're for wood not metal brackets. I use only Simpson screws (or nails) for Simpson brackets.
Great video!!! I've never pictured so vividly a plastic bag being placed over the heads of people with lisp's 😂 also thanks for showing how not to do stairs. Good try though I know you took a lot of "PRIDE" in this project. Although I don't think it really needed a super hero costume to build but, YOU GO GIRL! 😂
WRONG !! Stringers were cut too tall. The top tread (or stair) should be at level even height as the retaining wall. It's just a very dangerous tripping point the way you built it. Stair treads (or steps) should always be cut from just one single boatd with NO butt joints. The building code would also require a handrail for these stairs. There are other incorrect instructions, too many to list. Personally, I think this is a terrible "how to" video. There are many other and BETTER stair building videos on youtube. Just don't use this video!
Concrete footing should be DUG at least 12” deep to HOLD the heavy stair “action” from eroding and moving…. Winter heaving will easily raise up 4” and you’ll have a mess in the Springtime… most carpenters HATE concrete and that’s the real problem….
Hi there. I was curious if you should have put .75 as the tread thickness since you are using what looks like 1X6s instead of 1.00. Just curious and looking for tips to make sure I’m getting it right. Thank you for the help.
I love your videos. They are almost perfect for the DIYer who's seeking guidance. They are almost perfect because of one issue. You occasionally pronounce "height" as "heigth"....please stop. It's literally the only thing about these videos that bug me. Thanks.
I have a question. I just built and installed stair stringers. But the run was short per the slope calculation of being able to use 2 full width trex boards. My question is how should I affix the trex boards to the run part of the stringers if 2 boards are too wide? Do I need to trim 1 of them down length wise to fit and then just have the cut/ broad face exposed instead of the slit for hidden fastener?
You did so much right but that top step on TOP of the retaining wall just blows chunks. You have all the tools. You are a salesman, not a carpenter. $100/boards that need to be cut into 3 pieces to span steps is the designers fault...not the price. Those pressure treated runners are good for perhaps 20 years. Why spend ridiculous amounts of $$$ to somehow imagine that plastic wood is better than say cedar 2x6's at a small fraction of what thise cost? The top step did not come out even with the retaining wall...sloppy, sloppy. You are an amateur selling yourself as a journeyman.
Your stringers look like the perfect amount to me which leads me to believe there is not enough. It's been my experience when it comes to stringers if you think you have enough you're usually at least 1 short. 😂😂
So tired of seeing screws going where you should only be putting nails, grab a piece of wood set a screw half way in then set a nail half way, take a hammer or pliers and bend them over repeatedly and we all knew which is going to snap first, screws = poor framing strength
go with 2 by steps and eliminate a stringer. 1 by steps ain't gonna last for squat anyway. At least the risers were open so you saved time and $$ there.
Nice work, pretty solid with all those hanger brackets. I just don't like leaving the risers open so they are visible. You also didn't do yourself any favors by not cleaning and leveling the ground below theses stairs.
you need to subtract the thickness of the treads off of the rise height also on the first rise, so that the rise height stay the same, In a run of stairs the rise or the run cannot deviate more than 3/8" from the other treads
Nicely done! I was expecting to see you bust out the g tape again, rather than wood preservative, on stringers. Like you did for the deck. Was there a reason for that?
Good question and in all honesty I was thinking of doing so but the tape would be much for visible in this case, which is why I just used the wood preservative. Thanks for watching and the good question.
