How to Build the 1977 Pontiac Firebird Smokey and the Bandit 1:25 Scale Revell Model Kit #85-4027 Review. Copyright 2017 Right On Replicas, LLC. All rights reserved.
10:07 is why the 403 big block only had 185hp lol. Stupid single exhaust with cat & smog pump.. Loved driving my girlfriends blue & gold 78 though in the early 90's, good times! Nice video, I used to be into building models then got into diecast & RC about 2000 & haven't looked back. I do appreciate what goes into a good hand built model, at a hobby shop I worked at guys would bring in cars & display them in a case we had to show them off & that's when I learned how much love & work went into the great ones. Cheers!
MrC, Yep and thanks for the memories of local hobby shops long ago! Thanks for sharing, and if you find our channel helpful, please subscribe, to help us continue our mission to inspire more modelers! -Doug
Thanks Doug. I have this kit ( still in the box ) but not for much longer. I will be following your build when I do build mine. As always Doug, another great build, looks awesome. Thanks. Jeff
Thank you for building this kit as I built this same one 2 years ago; I was miffed why Revell forgot to include the "Trans Am" decals. There should be one on each front quarter panel right under that horse-shoe shaped vent and a big one across the tail above the lights. In my research of watching the movie till I was blue in the face, the actual writing on the side of the shaker was " 6.6 T/A". The tires should also have white lettering. There should also be a Georgia state flag license plate on the front. I had to custom make these missing decals and fix all the detailed short comings. With that being said, Overall, I liked the kit and enjoyed building it, but Revell missed the mark to really make it a complete replica from the movie. Bit of trivia: the ones used for filming were actually 76' models with retro fitted 77' noses or front ends. Please keep doing these iconic model kit builds. I really enjoy watching each one.
Surely it was because of licensing issues, or they were just cheap (like greenlight). Greenlights 1:18 diecast 2017 release of the 1977 was missing a motor, opening hood, steerable wheels & any license plates (it did have some decals with Pontiac's & GoodYears licensing) . Also the steering wheel is like a 1:12 or something the same with their Last of the V8 Interceptor, way too big.. =(
Started building, had to do a little body work. Noticed the body is slightly twisted in the front. Should I fix it or will it straighten when attached to the frame?
JK, It' probably going to move a bit but if it's over 3/16" I'd give the blow dryer treatment or hot/cold bath taped/clamped to a flat base! PS, please subscribe if you haven't already to help us reach more modelers. -Doug
awesome review i built this when i got back into modeling fun build im gonna grab another one love the movie thanks again for all your reviews the are great
Great video! I am just starting on mine. However I am nervous about installing the decals, especially the pinstripes. Do you have any tips? I am a beginner btw.
Thanks, and great question Cobey. Soak the the decals in warm water - not hot, for about 20 seconds. "paint" warm water on the area your adding the decal to. Rub them lightly until they move on the carrier paper and start one end off the carrier and put your wet finger on the end when you have it placed on the model. Pull the carrier off the underside of the length of the pinstripe and let it drop to the body. move it into place and prod it into final position with a wet paintbrush. Once it's where you want it, swipe it gently with a soft cloth or tissue along the length. If it squirms out of position wet the area with warm water and prod it back into place with the wet paintbrush and repeat the swipe. Hope that helps! PS, please subscribe if you haven't already to help us reach more modelers. -Doug
I'm working on my Kit now. Is it okay if use regular aerosol paint for the interior or do i need to buy paint made for a model kit. I'm in a dilemma and need some help
TT, In most cases paint that is made for plastic will work just fine. Much of the common stuff like Krylon or Rust-O-leum are OK but you should coat the parts with a primer coat first. -Doug
KoK - This is mostly detailed in the video but here’s a run down. General construction with Plastruc Liquid cement, Superglue on the suspension, white glue for the windows and glass. Engine was Krylon Short Cuts Pacific blue, and the transmission was painted with Testor’s Metallizer Magnesium. The interior with Testor’s satin black, then taped of the back seat and center console and flocked the floor with black flocking. The front seats where painted satin black and glued in. The front wheel wells and firewall were painted flat black. I used Testor’s gold to detail the wheels, and then used a flat black paint marker to paint around the outside of the wheel. Finally, I then sprayed the body and parts with Testor’s flat black, then followed up with 3 coats of Testor’s classic black airbrushed on. Standard tools were used like a hobby knife, sandpaper and sand sticks, modeling putty, air brush. Hope that helps! -Doug
My uncle had the same y82 madel of trans am same color just like the smokey and the bandit I was 7yrs old when my uncle purchased the car new unfortunately it was stolen and never found
reat build.. I am just getting started on mine. Just finished the engine and moving onto the seats and body.. Great tips for the build.. Thanks for sharing.. I was gad to see this video now.. SUBBED
Right On Replicas I was spray painting the hood on this one and while it was drying it fell onto a cardboard box, so now the paint is somewhat stained. What’s the best way to repaint and/or remove the stain?
@@e.mac1186 It depends on the paint you are using. If it is oil-based enamel, I have found a household bleach soak works best, to entirely remove ALL the paint, and then start over. Toluene-based paint (like automotive and touch-up) bonds with the plastic, so your best bet may be to carefully remove the blemish(es) with fine grades of sanding film or sticks, and then paint over them. Many Asian paint types, like Tamiya or Mr. Paint, market specific solvents to remove their paint without damaging the plastic parts; I would go for total removal from the part here as well. Avoid so-called 'professional' or 'industrial' paint-removers from your local home hardware store... they will either soften or mar the part, or turn the plastic extremely brittle. In all cases, try to limit the time your part is in contact with these cleaning solvents.
Ivan, Thanks for the suggestions and please subscribe if you haven't already, to help us continue our mission to inspire more modelers! -Doug! Иван, спасибо за предложения и, пожалуйста, подпишитесь, если вы еще этого не сделали, чтобы помочь нам продолжить нашу миссию по вдохновению большего количества моделистов! -Даг! ivan, spasibo za predlozheniya you, pozhaluysta, podpyshytes, esli vy eszcze etogo ne sdelali, chtoby pomoch nam prodolite nashu missiu po vdokhnoveniyu bolshego kolichestva modelistov! -dag!
Only issue I had was the engine didn't sit right, which was very important because the air cleaner / shaker must sit perfect to come through the hood. I tried everything. It looks awful. Why, why, why... wouldn't this kit come with Trans Am decals for the rear spoiler and fenders? Shame on you, Revell. SOOOO DISAPPOINTED!!!
Craig, It is very difficult to align items like the engine/scoop combo in this kit. I find it helpful to hold off gluing them into place until after the whole model comes together, along with a lot of test fitting to get to that point. I hope this helps and please subscribe if you haven't already so that we can reach more modelers! -Doug
Doug, I see that MPC has a kit that comes with all the proper decals and even white letter tires. I might try to get that kit just so I can finish this one I am already knee deep in, the proper way.
I have found that both Revell and MPC exaggerate the vertical profile of their engine parts, adding too much height to many of their engines. Classic Revell kits are the worst offenders, often modelling detail to the tops and bottoms of blocks, intakes, carbs, and air cleaners, surfaces most of us are going to glue together anyways. The result is an engine that often sits too high. Once I establish how, for example, an intake fits onto an engine block, I will remove any assembly pins so I can improve the fit; most car engines in 1/24 or 1/25 scale will look very compact, should sit quite low in the engine bay, and have very tight clearances between major pieces of equipment. For what it's worth, the MPC kit, which I built back in the day, was a far worse-fitting kit than this, and my disappointment in that kit was similarly great. The only answer is: copious test-fitting and adjustment of parts, with parts intended to abut or fit into others left till last.
