extreme toys mx25 pro dirtbike completely died after about 20 miles,shop was no use at all,if i listend to them i would have purchased many items for hundreds of pounds,it was only the bms. everything on bike seemed to work ok seprately when tested with multi tester,would not work when all together proply.THIS VIDEO MENDED MY SONS BIKE,THANKYOU SO MUCH
You are a genius man !!! my battery was dying after couple of minutes on my electric scooter. Just made this same like you and no problem. BIG THANKS !!!
Meh dont worry about being too comfortable trying to fix ppl. If you want to have a go at it i would say go for it, just keep in mind that you may create a bigger problem, so as long as you dont care about if you f it up then go and try because you will never learn how to if you dont try. Forget about more problems i have ruined many electronics before i learnt and even now i sometimes create a bigger problem but oh well i will just fix that too😅
Hi pavel excellent video however the last bit about reconnecting the b- terminal so that it controls the charging is really something i dont understand, as far as i see regardless of this port, the battery is receiveing the full voltage of the charger no matter what the b- port does as both the red and black cables go directly from charger to battery, as far as i understand the bypass will work but soldering the b- into the black cables of the battery will not prevent overcharges, as once the battery is loaded, nothing will disconnect the charging, am i wrong in this kr and thanks in advance!!!
Steven, Flipsky 6.6 plus is the only one worth looking at in my opinion....it is quite large though. Take a look on my channel - got a review / unboxing video. Think about the whole build first then start buying the parts.... Actually you just gave me an ide - new video " How to plan a DIY " : ) Cheers.
Great video! Thanks!! Im looking for a wireless remote for an old e-glide board i have with a 70A idrive controller currently using a wired hand throttle. The iDrive can be configured to use switched signals, restive potentiometer (0-5K), or a voltage input (0-5V), as the throttle input/drive signal. Can you recommend anything, or anyone i can ask about this? Neither e-glide nor idrive have any options at the moment. Thanks again!
Great video I swapped to charge only BMS a while ago one of the downside of a regular BMS is braking doesnt work when your battery is 100% no where to dump the power. I live at top of a hill and most of my esk8s start with braking i worked out to charge battery to 97% (adjust my charger) and bypass my bms.
I did not know this was possible, Pavel. I will not attempt, as I am taking your advice to not do this if you are not confident. Once again a most interesting video, my friend, and i loved the sound effects from your little one and her appearance in the video:) Pavlova is now a very clean cat. I was drawing water for a bath a few days ago. When I returned to the bathroom she was sitting innocently on the edge of the tub, but she could not hide her wet legs. Apparently she had dived in:)
@@PavelGarmas I have been having a great time riding both of them, my friend. Still not satisfied with the battery replacement. I'm wondering if I may have belts too tight?
Thank you pavel ! I just seen this vid my bms ever broken. i connect my battey directed to esc for used while i wait my new bms and work fine. my board very powerfull than past. but i dont need high discharge. when my new BMS arrive i will assembly not to by-pass. cuase discharge pass from BMS to ESC is good enough for me.
Great video! I built a board without BMS but for some odd reason I can't rid it past 2min without losing power. Not sure if I'm losing current from the battery or if to much is flowing to the VESC. I'm lost on what the issue is. My specs are: 12s6p 18650 20R, Flipsky FSESC 6.6, Flipsky 6384 190kv motors x2, Anti-spark switch, etc. I'm a big guy about 110kg, have you ever had this problem or any ideas what would cause lose of power and torque? Great videos and keep them coming!
I would like to note, anybody who’s using this video to Bypass their BMS on the Meepo Hurricane should note a few things. First is that you do need to either keep one of the Discharge negatives Hooked onto the BMS and Use the Second Negative cable (as there are two Discharge Negatives going into B- on the Meepo Hurricane) to Cut and Wire Direct to the Discharge Power Port. I learned the hard way that of you cut both Discharge Negatives from B- and Bypass the BmS it will work but it WILL NOT SIGNAL THE CHARGER TO SEND A CHARGE AFTER YOU KILL THE BATTERY. I was lucky that I had Two Batteries. 1 was for trial and Error and the other I did Correctly 🤣🤦♂️. So to make this short, The BMS on the Meepo Hurricane will have two Discharge Negative going through the BMS and Exit the BMS to the Discharge Port as just 1 Cord. So cut 1 Negative cord from B- and Bypass it to the Negative Discharge Port While leaving the second Black Cord still attached to B- so it still charges correctly. After that is done it will work. Please note that Throttling in Fourth on a full charge while holding the Board in the air might cause the Safety mechanism in the motors to briefly cut Throttle because their seems to be a little to much power now going to them. This stops at about 85 percent and doesn’t happen when I ride. Only if I hold the board in the air to throttle. I have 1 original Hurricane Motor and One newer one. The old one does not have the safety feature of cutting throttle I noticed because it’s smooth and holds throttle no matter how much power you give while the newer motor seems to have some sort of safety shut off if to much power goes through. Again this is just something I noticed but does not effect my riding at all and does not happen when I’m actually on the board.
Hey there, How does this work with regen braking? Your vesc puts back 30a directly to the pack through the discharge cables? With no balancing? I understand the charge circuit is still balancing when plugged into the charger. But while riding? I built my own 10s6p battery but only have a 30a bms handy I have the Flipsky 50a cont esc so i dont want to lose power by bottlenecking at 30a Any suggestions? Is this something we dont mind because later we will charge it back up with balance? Many thNks!
Hi, Regen braking is such a little factor in my mind. Energy is being pumped back to the cells during the braking via the main positive and negative gables and will get distributed across the cells randomly and yes you are correct - this will get corrected during the balance charge. I do set my regen as low as possible considering the brake strength that i need, terrain that i ride ( very little down hill ) and the heat that will be generated on the motors if all the generated power is not being used. every DIY builder that know does by-pass the discharge because it is way more dangerous for the bms to cut out due to discharge limit than the regenerated power harvesting. Hopefully this helps.
I wish this would work with my battery. The design I have uses the discharge ports as the charging ports as well. I am in a tough position where I would have to re-engineer the entire setup or find a replacement BMS that fits in the same spot.
@@PavelGarmas for testing I just doubled up the leads on each of the posts effectively bypassing the BMS allowing the maximum voltage through. Unfortunately this didn't fix me issue but at least now I know it's not the bms. Thank you for the video and replying to my comment.
Question, I have a shared XT60 conector to my battery and BMS so wanting to bypass the BMS for discharge. Could I just add another discharge cable with an XT60 connector straight to my battery? Preferably, I don't want to be cutting any cables. I'm happy to have a charging connector (running through the BMS) and a discharge connector. My battery is 4p 16s
Great video! So is the large black wire from the battery (was connected to B on the BMS before you cut it) and the thin black wire you make the final connection with connected internally to the battery? The large one of course is the negative coming to the BMS, then passing through the the discharge port (P). I was thinking the small black wire is also connected to the battery negative, but it just a sense wire so no large current passes through it. Is that right?
Hi Shane, Sounds right.... the idea is that you do take the big negative out of the BMS and go direct to esc. The small black cable is for charging so that BMS can sense the charge of the cells.
Nice video, with this set up a remedy for Escooter I know the battery will not be Overcharged due to its automatic cut-off power charger, when it reached full voltage it will cut-off itself..
Is there a way to temporary bypass the BMS to charge a battery that has been in cold storage for more then a year? My fast charger that came with the board is not charging when plug as it shows full charge but it’s not & is totally flat (red light on battery indicator)
Hi mate! Temporarily....not really. By -passing BMS involves getting to the wiring and changing the way the cables are. You could potentially install XT connectors on the cables after you cut them and then re-plug in if you have space for all the additional connectors.
My ebike batter is 72v 40ah w Panasonic pf cells which are 3c. They should give 120A cont. but my BMS only allows 80A to pass through. I want to get a sabvoton 150A programmable sine-wave controller to pull more power but obviously my battery will cut out. Is this relatively safe to do on a larger battery such as mine?
HI Eric, There are two ways of controlling your battery discharge - BMS or a good quality speed controller. Normally BMS will be like a bottle neck and will restrict the discharge so you are safe to by-pass it as long as you are using a good quality esc and will set it up correctly ( max discharge and low battery limits ). 99% of electric skateboard builders do by-pass the BMS on discharge.
Yes it's safe to bypass your bms for discharge only and you still charge through your bms ... just be sure not to drain your battery too low since your bms will no longer cut off when it hits low voltage... my low voltage should be 50volts but my controller stops working at 48volts so that's my safety cut off. My controller works up to 90 volts and my battery is 87.7 so I get to use from 48v-87v for my range. Its excellent.
I see many people just cutting ground from bms and connect dirrectly to plug and didnt see that they connect the small wire from the other side, will that be a problem in the future?
Just a quick one, great videos dude keep it up 👍🏻 what are the main reasons you would want to bypass the bms? I've heard if something fails it stops the board from locking up is this true ?
Hi mate, Thank you for watching and for the question. I do always by-pass bms on discharge but not on charge. The reason for it is that most of the DIY boards use batteries that can supply currents higher than what the bms can take... bms does create a choke in the power system and gets by-passed. Good esc will keep the battery from over discharging if set up correctly. Hope this helps.
@@PavelGarmas awesome cheers dude your answer was spot on i get it now 👌🏻 im building a diy atm you don't know anyone that can build a battery for me do you ?
My battery has deep-discharged and the BMS is preventing them from charging up. If I perform this, will it cure my problem and allow the battery to charge?
Hi mate, What is the voltage that you cells have dropped to? By-passing the BMS is for allowing more juice on discharge side and will not help with charging mate.
i dont thing you need to connect b- to earth connection, on series wires if you test with your multi meter u should see it all ready connected internally unless your bms is different then after market bms
That BMS was from factory built board and that was he only way to get it going... looking at some feedback from other viewers, seems that this method did work for a few instances. I do show how to by-pass smart BMS units in my battery building tutorials as well.
I'd add a fuse ... ... one of those reseteable ones, 80A or whatever... just in case something goes wrong, it's better to fry something else that is not the cells and BE CAREFUL not to OVERDISCHARGE ... so add a volt meter too
@@PavelGarmas yes a thoroughly checked about all the components they are compatible with each other and appropriately rated the only thing about BMS is its locally made in India, company might be overpromising I ordered a Daly BMS 24s 100a 72v lifepo4 to ensure fool proofing I am converting santro ( internationally known as atos prime) to electric , coupling motor directly to gearbox
@@PavelGarmas there are two types of BMS, separated ports and common ports, you did the bypass with the BMS with separated ports. The question it's possible to do the bypass with the BMS with common ports. Hope you understand it
@@PavelGarmas I've done that bridge... cause i like make mistakes X.x ...it worked... but... the battery switch on/off now doesn't work, the battery is always on... and when I use it, at the first big load the BMS cut off once and I can feel a little lowering of power, (2 of those cause i got 2x 36v battery in series) but than and after that all good and smooth... charging side its fine... but I will try your way to see if I can get away from the BMS cut off anyway! ...ty again mate!
wow i just done wiring,the scooter not cutoff now..but the charger cant detect charge..alwasy green light.. im not cut anything cable from charge to battery..any solution?
i found the problem,the battery voltage drop to 30v,the charger cant reconize the low volume maybe..can i joint the black wire charger to black controller ? if i do like that..the charger can detect the battry.
Hello mate! Thank you for watching and for commenting BUT..... I do not think you did watch the video carefully : ) This video was a request from my subscribers and not my tutorial PLUS - by-pass is on the DISCHARGE side NOT charge side buddy. Had it done to two of my DIY boards and all good, Ride safely mate!
It is common sense you are not gonna start messing with your BMS If you have no clue what you are doing and why. THis is a great video to show how to be able to use full potential of your batteries. Not only discharge rate but also the ability go down to 2,5-2,6 volts thus giving you 10 percent+ more range than with BMS.
Exactly. What you did is this: The BMS no longer protects the battery from discharging the LiPoly cells below 3.3V/cell. That is the safe side. If the voltage drops even lower the cells are gonna be damaged forever. And if it is a good bms it will refuse to charge them. So if you people are not getting full power from your battery, it might be the bms discharge rate that needs to by changed. Disabling it will lead to damaging the battery by deep discharge.
