Finally found the guy that leaves a half inch of zip tie afyer he cuts it that causes scrapes and cuts everytime i reach for a wire in an engine bay. Thanks man.
grip the zip tie vertically with a pair of pliers and twist till tail around and around till it breaks off no sharp end left over to cut you up. learned this from an old electrician.
I usually never comment on RU-vid videos but this video is so good he explains everything so simply and he shows you how to do everything and it's not complicated so thankyou very much for this video.
I agree, this is by far the best video I've seen for this process so far... However... zip ties?? bro, REALLY? I'd suggest using the proper size ferrules and a swage tool to crimp the end of the wire loop so you don't risk the loop coming undone or cutting yourself on the cut end of the zip ties.
I just had to come back and comment, every other video on RU-vid requires opening the case and removing the shaft and gear. I decide to give this a shot and works like a charm and easily reversible if needed. Thanks for the video, this is what I'm doing to all the 212s now, simple and so effective.
In my opinion the correct way to bypass the governor is to do it internally. "bypassing" the governor as described will only work until the engine reaches a certain speed and activates the centrifugal weights which will overpower the spring and limit the revs anyway. But I will go ahead and try it anyway...
@@allenwilson1864 it actually does work man. But instead of bashing it on there you get the lead weights that have the hole all the way through the center. Thread the cable through and put it where you want it and heat it with a blow torch until its close to melting and it will fuse to the cable. Ive done this many times. Works well. Use a blow torch with MAP gas
A simple propane torch will accomplish the task. But it is a good idea to clean the cable with alcohol and put a drop or to of soldering Flux where you intend to attach the sinker.
I totally did this also !!! And it did work !!! I did a mikuni carburetor conversion but my throttle cable didn't have the ball or anything on the end, no worries get out thee old fishing tackle, pick the right size sinker and voila!!! Hahaha glad I wasn't the only one to think of this !!
On the OEM, (please pause the video at 1:40) the main throttle lever is NOT hooked to the carb. It is hooked to the governor which then IT controls the throttle based on the internal mechanism that limits rpm/response along with your input. Bottom line, the governor lever has final say so in the throttle/butterflys position. By hooking directly to the carb or the governor arm which directly hooks to the carb you have eliminated its ability to alter your input by giving you a direct connection. No governor action is capable when your right thumb is directly connected to the carb's butterfly. Those who say this won't work should put their dad's tools away, go back to their parent's basement and warm up a hot pocket.
What do you do with the governor if you've installed an aftermarket carb that has the tradition slide? The stock carb and assembly above it are obviously gone, but the governor is still there. I am not getting fuel to the carb even through the new throttle works. I appreciate your advice/direction.
Thanks for this. I noticed this configuration on the KT 196 ENGINE, I know its got more juice than its produced to make. This video explains very well what is needed or not needed.
Instead of a zip tie for the cable end with no fitting on it, you could use a 10=12 gauge electrical crimp connector. Probably a little more durable. Great video. Thanks for sharing.
I did the same thing, let’s just say my neighbor no longer buys gas lawn mowers because when they stop working and he throws them out I fix them then destroy them the fun way So governor is long gone, muffler long gone, and blade long gone due to safety issues And golly was I surprised how loud it really is and damn those brigs motors are good
What I did to hold the cable in place is secured it in the cable clamp closest to the arm, and put the cable around and into the arm hole. And then I took a bolt and nut to clamp the cable in the spot I wanted. Rode my minibike real hard today and had no problem.
Zip tie the governor spring. Takes 5 minutes. Same outcome, way easier, and you keep the stock linkage which is very useful. Its cool that you came up with your own way though, never would have thought of doing that.
@@justnature1900 i see what she means. If you watch the governor spring from the throttle to gov arm, its got a certain "give" that prevents it from opening fully. Zip tie the coils and it essentially becomes a rod instead of a spring. I may try this
@@JoseRodriguez-en8bo lol so yeah it already happened bout a year ago my dude, and yeah, it tore the frame up on the 3ed run, needless to say I won't do that again
You just left the governor mechanism engaged . Doing this will make the engine tends to reduce the throttle openning when it reaches the set value ( 3000 rpm ) and this tendancy will be opposite to the force of your throttle lever or handle what ever you use , so you will have oppsite forces acting against each other. I recommend taking out the governer lever and keep the spring attached to a fixed position instead so that the throttle gets back to idle position when you release it.
Sorry I’m trying to do this now, and so your saying take off the long skinny rod? So then there will just be return spring and throttle cable connected to the arm?
so glad i watched this. i did the cut the hockey stick with bolt cutters and removed the gear, leaving the arm and linkage for stock appearing between a couple buddies....looks like it's going to work!!!
Remove the guvnah arm and bore the mounting hole reinstall pinch bolt, the arm will move freely with no effect of the governor . You must reinstall the tank to keep arm from coming up and off of shaft, it could be cross drilled and cotter pin would work if you run with out the tank
instead of using zip ties try using a fishing sinker, the kind with a hole through the center. once on where you want it either crimp it on very tightly (temporary) or heat it with a small torch until it melts enough to make it permanent. it can still be removed by reheating it later and looks professional/factory made. bending the wire is now not needed.
Been watching all the videos just found this vid from a few years back. You're right you can bypass the governor of this way and if people don't Full Throttle it into Infinity they should be okay but if they max out the RPMs for too long that plastic Governor gear could explode inside. It could just be chewed up by the steel internals but it could cause problems I guess
Yes I have learned from previous mistakes that maxing rpm’s with this setup for to long will completely destroy that plastic housing and a suggestion is that you fully tenths gov
@@a_gokart_kid1259how long do u think it will last if u hold it for to long. And I’m thinkings about doing it how long do u think the engine will last if u are careful.
I just got a mini bike with a Trimmer engine can you tell me how to switch one of this engines and where to get it and the price please🙏🤾♂️ in simple words please😁
He is actually not bypassing the Governor he is wiring directly to the governor. - Therefore not letting the governor do its job. - A lot safer to remove the gear btw.
I watched this just to see how the springs and such are hooked up, thank you... my Predator still does not start but this video is helpful.. so must not be the way it is hooked up, but found I am missing one the springs that attaches to the throttle action on carburetor. My configuration is for a leaf blower, engine was put on a Giant VAC to replace an older Briggs engine, so my throttle cable comes in from the front side "pull starter" side and don't want the action to spring back automatically because it is not used like a gas pedal, like a go kart. Once throttle is set on a leaf blower, you want it to stay on by itself and control throttle with the cable / lever.
The only problem I've heard of with just bypassing the governor like this is even though it won't effect your speed, that gear in there will still be spinning at very high speeds (speeds it's not meant for) and that gear could break and cause problems in the engine.
Just purchased a go-kart with this exact engine. This is so simple to follow, especially with the governor setup on these engines, the throttle over time gets stuck open. Thank goodness for kill switches, right? ;) Hey thanks for the video. This was helpful!
The reason the governor is on there is for standard applications like running equipment and machinery. The reason we remove it is for better throttle response, not more rpms. As long as you don't over rev it, you should be fine.
@braddo1972 No, the governor stops it AT full rpm, in this case 2500 rpms. Anything over that would be over reving and you have a better chance of damaging the engine unless you install better engine components like a billet flywheel, crank rod, piston and I would also put in some better springs in it if you want to over rev it. And might as well do a cam at this point, you are in it deep enough. Better yet, just buy the ghost engine.
That's another myth. Removing the governor does not and can not change throttle response. The other very popular myth is that you can't get full throttle with the governor and stock linkage. I get full throttle on my governed minibike engines. My engines would never perform the way they do if these were true.
@Deucealive75 No myth. I've done it enough times on several different motors. I race lawn tractors my whole life. Sure you can over-ride or bypass the governor. But it is better to remove it all together. You don't want to rev it higher than the max rpm as stock. The magnets could fly off the flywheel, or the flywheel can explode in general. And If you don't believe me that's fine. I just hope you, your friends, or family don't get hurt when yours explodes.
This explained why my sons mini bike beat mine lmao his is hooked up this way thing hits like 45 stock with gov, I put a fresh 212 on mine with exhaust and this helped me beat him 😈 thanks brotha your the man 🤙🏽👊🏽👊🏽
Me speaking from experience if you bypass the governor gear whether it’s a predator engine or not, you better be committing to oil changes every 60 drive hours because the governor gear is what protects all those small moving gears from exploding inside the casing so if you do the general maintenance on it at thehours that the owners manual says and keep making sure there’s oil in it then yeah it won’t blow up but if you’re buying it, and it will be great to do maintenance on it. Then your engine will yeet itself into existence after five years of not changing or more.
Doing it this way you will be fighting the governor weights passably causing the governor to break beings it is only plastic and eventually damage the engine. Ether use the governor all the way or remove all the way. I have been a auto mechanic for 39 years and the best way to do the throttle linkage is with the lever the way the engine was designed to work. The governor can be changed to govern out at a higher rpm. I have the governor on my hemi predator 212 at 6500 rpm I also balanced the engine so it doesn't rattle apart from being unbalanced and shaking.
Exactly, either people's parents are the ones shelling out the money for these, they are intellectually deficient from crashing "a sick build" they "modified" or they're wealthy enough that its inconsequential to them (they should just pay someone to do it). Regardless, take the 30 minutes or $20 & do it correctly. Also posting obscenities in statement does not make you or your opinions seem more credible especially when you cant form a coherent sentence on a machine that tries to correct you 3 different ways while you type. My 2 & 1/2cents
The range of things people treat as disposable is appalling. Im not saying people should be reusing Q-tips but come on. People have this notion "Ill just chuck it and get a new one no biggie its just one motor and I'm just one person'". The problem is 10 million other lazy aholes are thinking the same thing(if the 2nd thought even penetrates their thick skull at all) and IT ADDS UP. I think the collection of ridiculous radical tree huggers that reuse a grocery bag 5 times are a joke BUT, common sense is common sense. Call it 3 cents
To make a ball on the end of a cable, bend the end, then wrap some copper wire (or some other wire you have layin around) inside the bend and around it, then solder it. I used to do that with clutch cables on dirt bikes when I was a kid.
@@archietheproto7706 Than the would probably due to the intake not large enough to supply any more air than at 4700 RPM.d Naturally aspirated vacuum limited RPM. A blower would be needed beyond that.,
@@danburch9989 they build these engines with after market intake adapters and mikuni carbs with header pipes, cams, strocker engines and the list goes on these engines can be built to rev over 9000 rpm and make over 20 horse power
+Trenton Smith the low oil cut off switch will shut the engine off sometimes even if the oil is not low and it also should be removed if the engine is being made into a racing engine
you can leave all that stuff on and just put two small zip ties around the spring and tighten till you get the right rpm the gov kicks in adjust accordingly.
@@noahnubbs there is a spring for the governor arm, just add 2 small zip ties inside to keep it from stretching open tight till you get the rpm you want.
Removing the governor is a good trick,(if you run the streets) at WOT! LOL! I trail ride my mini bike, and I'm more interested in low end torque, than high RPM. I use a CVT and a 60 tooth rear sprocket on my bike. It pulls like a tractor, but still hit's 32 mph with my 254 lbs.riding on it!
Cars and cameras method is better, just take the side cover off, remove the governor gear, reinstall the cover. You keep all the original linkage and don't need to have 6" to 8" inches running from your clamp to the arm. But not saying this won't work.
@@16driver16 no you don't. You just remove the governor arm and gear and washers etc, and cut the arm off inside the case with a dremel. Keeping the arm sticking out of the case with the governor linkage intacked and still useable. Ive seen it done this way and works very well. Leave a slight bent on the governor arm INSIDE the case. Will keep the arm from coming out and then make sure to put the clip back on.
@@joeshmo2473 i suppose you could leave all that linkage on there, ive never done it that way myself but ive since upgraded to a mikuni and ill never go back.
@@16driver16 yeah your absolutely right about the mikuni. The only thing that sucks is the price. A genuine 26mm mikuni will run anywhere from 90 to 120 but they are sooo worth the money. I have one on my pitbike and it screams and the throttle response is much crispier.
Well the point of a governer is to limit the rpm, by bypassing it you'll get alot more performance but you're also stressing the engine more because it's now running at 5200rpm max instead of 3600rpm max.
Gregory Nage, he was showing you how to bypass the governor. I'm sure he knew that he didn't hook the spring up, but that had nothing to do with what this video was about. I would bet $1000 he hooked the spring up when he decided to run the motor. You really couldn't have just bit your tongue on that one huh? I bet you were a snitch all through school and had no friends
Don’t need to do this, but I learned what all the parts are for on that speed control. Had same unit on a 228cc, then put a predator on the splitter. Learned to disconnect the oil pressure cut off today. Now it starts on a quarter pull, rather than several to apparently get the oil pressure up enough to start.
These engines do not have oil pressure or an oil pressure switch. What you disconnected was the oil low switch. When the oil level gets low enough the switch will ground out the coil and shut off the engine. They get removed or disconnected for the minibike and go kart applications.
this video helped me with 2 things l need to fix, one is to put my lawn mower direct bypass all the bs, & second the emergency break cable on my mr2, spyder , gona rigg it
8:30 but remember, the governor is out for blood and is becoming stronger every day for revenge a pond its friends and family you gruesomely beheaded at 2:34
FireAndGasoline very true but still a lazy, bad idea...... Just take it off right,. Its just as simple with the added benefit of doing things correctly,. No hate,. Just speaking the truth.......
Predator engines won’t blow up ungoverned with stock internals. I raced a predator 212 with a Briggs animal 206cc racing 26mm carb and a Honda racing exhaust as well as a vacuum fuel system, on my professional racing gokart for 3 years. Never even had a sign of wear.
@@DRpotatoYT yeah, "should" is not enough for a flywheel literally behind my neck 😁 i made some calculations at the time and I was impressed by the forces involved given the weight of it
@@cmh-re at your own risk, I personally haven't had a problem with the stock flywheel but to be safe I put a billet one in there. I value my legs when I ride my minibikes.
Great method. With a little ingenuity, you can make it look better. A spring bracket that looks like OEM made it, and a throttle cable clamp on the governor arm.
That's actually not correct, you're still limited. It will surge and you will go top speed then slow down repeatedly, I just take the throttle arm and put it directly to the carb eliminating all the springs
Smh. I removed governor in 15 mins. Open case, rip out gear. Push arm all the way up. Grind off some shaft(after removing arm and all that b.s he is f'ing with). Pull out arm from bottom.. Lazy way without taking out rod and blah. Tap hole where arm came out block before. Screw with ruber washer/lock tight. Clean everything nice... put it back. Boom! No governor.
steven r funny you should say that! He is using the Governor arm as the throttle cable so in fact he isn’t bypassing the Governor at all he threw away the good arm and kept the Governor arm no point!
The governor is still there you're basically fighting the governor the best thing to do is to open the engine up and cut the arm on the inside so the governor can't do anything
If you watch the governor spring from the throttle to gov arm, its got a certain "give" that prevents it from opening fully. Zip tie the coils and it essentially becomes a rod instead of a spring. I may try this.
See what you need are some good valve springs, a mod 2 cam, an arc billet rod, a billet flat top piston, and a better flywheel. Then take that governor off and rip 👍
lol i did the same thing to a lawnmower that i got for free even before watching this video all it is is just attaching a cable directly to the carburetor
But rather than the governor arm cutting the throttle you’re holding it open not allowing it to cut. Reach back when you’re riding and hold down the governor arm. Same principle. In other words free speed who don’t wanna crack open the engine
studying up on them iv never used one always had flat head briggs there getting harder and harder to find so putting away my old time blocks and going modern will do justice to any good go cart or mini bike going to put one on my sears but will have it factory for hard work on it but the gov and all that stuff will have to go on carts and ect.........cool video it will run without blowing all to hell no one holds a engine wide open its common since ...also run good oil and keep it changed wont be a problem
