How TO Calibrate The Esteps On A Direct Drive Extruder The EASY Way! 

dude that is solid advice

nice, i did the same thing except i measured the marks on a separate piece of painter's tape and just taped the edge to the filament being extruded, then made the marks on the filament, made it a lot easier

oh man, this is great advice. i was having trouble since all i have atm is a fat pair of calipers that doesn’t fit well. you just saved my ass lol

Wow! Thanks!! I appreciate the feedback, great find!

@@TheEdgeofTech Now worries, glad I could contribute something that might make it a little easier for others.

@@jolen500123 Thanks. Just calibrated my S1pro using this method.

Can you insert the decimal numbers of the result?

@@Thunderbolt0883 yes, but only the first value after the decimal. Like say for example if you get a decimal value of .32 you'll only be able to do .3

Thank you, that was super easy

Great! I am glad it helped!

Two words.. Thank you!

Awesome!! It's always good to check them at least, and I love the idea of it being built in!

How is that combo? Do they mix well?

I agree, however the example in the video the S1 I've found is already perfectly calibrated from factory.

Yes, also measuring the diameter over a few meters and taking an average. Put that number in the slicer as it does affect the gcode result. Ask me how I know 🤦🏼. Most other extrusion issues should be adjusted with the slicer's extrusion multiplier after printing the Luke Hatfield 2-wall cube (my preference) from thingiverse.

What!! Shoot me the link!!

Great info! Next week will be the new Flow Rate (extrusion multiplier) video and that will tie this all up! :)

Most 3D printers I've found don't need that much maintenance however if you live in a humid environment you could need to dehydrate your filament from time to time.

Thanks for watching!

Awesome! Go Packers!

I like that idea David!!

If your using the S1 put M420 S1 in your gcode to make sure that the auto bed level is working. G92 works too but makes the bed level each time which is an unnecessary time waste.

Nope. Just calibrate the E Steps once, then do the Flow Rate calibration on the filaments. :)

Did you put M92 before?

Yeah I mean the video overall is helpful, but I rolled my eyes at the marker. "10mm, or maybe 7". When he said that i thought "...or 5, or 3, whatever."

Great info! I like that idea too, and may have to do a video showing this method as well! It's good to cover all the bases. Thanks for watching!

It comes with the S1/S1 Pro/S1 Plus

The sprite extruder uses 24 volts.

In the S1, it's Move (Axis) > Extruder > 10mm

and i have a clog that happens every few mins

Over or underextrusion. Blobs, bulgy corners, filament pressed away, or gaps between lines or missing lines like running out of ink

I think that Satoshi said it very well here!!

Thanks for chiming in!! Nicely done!

That's a great point! There are so many different thoughts on this, just like everything! Thanks for watching!

Yes, the prevailing thoughts on the matter are that physically you should be driving your E-Step value from the actual movement of filament and not introducing any other factors into it. If you add a nozzle, then temperature of the extruder will affect your e-steps value due to compression of filament, etc. E-steps should always be done in free-air, to eliminate variables. This is the consensus among people like Joseph Prusa, Adrian Bowyer (essentially god when it comes to 3D printing; he's the one who started all of this), Nophead, and many others. These are all people with 12+ years of experience in the 3D printing field. In any scientific journey, including engineering - you do your best to eliminate variability and base things on _facts_. Cold, hard numbers which are irrefutably the case. In most instances, the E-step value is calculated from the average diameter of the hobbed gear - given that different filaments will bite differently and change the 'true' circumference. Softer filaments will collapse further into the teeth, harder ones less so. The people who tell you to calibrate e-steps with the nozzle on are the same people who tell you to put bearings on the other ends of your Z axis rods instead of letting them float. They think they understand what's going on - but those who have done the empirical testing know that you leave the free ends to wobble so they don't impart their imperfections on the gantry. Same thing with E-steps. Don't trust anyone who tells you to calibrate this with the hot end attached and the nozzle up to temperature. Additionally - this calculated value is generally _correct from factory_. Not always, but in most instances. Only time you should need to change it, is when the diameter of your extruder gear is in question (changing drive mechanisms to dual-gear, changing to a different extruder system, etc) or if you do something like change from 1.8 to 0.9 degree step motors (effectively doubling your steps per mm requirement).

@@ThantiK really depends tho. In klipper, it says you need to have your nozzle to the right temperature when calibrating esteps.

The pressure exerted by the extruder shouldn't be manipulated by the material being pushed through the nozzle. The displacement is fixed. If it does then your nozzle is not hot enough or clogged

Yes however the e-steps are generaly good out of the box.

Is it just dribbling out or fully pushing like it's printing?

@@TheEdgeofTech the extruder does not move one step even and it comes out like 2/3 cm of filament

Normally this issue would be solved with retraction. Try swapping a nozzle or making the start gcode heat to 150 before it does bed leveling so it wont be an issue there. Does seem like a pretty extreme case though.

M500 makes the settings save.

I use M420 S1 instead which uses less time. Might work out better.

I got the same one, and until tonight my prints have been pulling off the bed, and they've been making a sound similar to the filament roll shifting, but different. Almost like an air bubble popping. I print at 215 for the initial, and 210 for the rest. with a hot bed at 70, then 60-65 for black PLA. I couldn't get it to stick with anything else. It sounds similar to you, but probably different. My problem is my Z step is out (I think, I'm printing the test again now), and my bed has a dish shape to it. This is my first printer, so I'm assuming you checked XY and Z but I didn't think to until tonight. I was measuring 20.6something. I also just ran a straight edge over the full width and noticed a nice bow. At the moment I stuffed tin foil in there, but I want to mill the top at my machine shop. If anyone can tell me if I can or not I'd love to know before I find out I can't.

@@VR_DS I have checked the XY and Z. I have gotten better results with constant tweeking, but I still have the issues with the knocking. It's honestly driving me nuts because I can't figure it out. As far as the "bowl" issue, I don't think that is supposed to be that way. I would call support and ask. That sounds really strange to me.

@@Swerewolf My problem was fixed with the Z step. I had been calibrating with the 20mm cube, but that was too far off I guess? I recalibrated to 100mm and its been great. My bowl issue is a warped bed, it's not supposed to be like that, but a lot of them are. Have you tried getting a video? is it something you can recreate, or signs its going to happen? Maybe you have a small burr in your nozzle, and the wire has to fight until the whole unit is hot?

I don't know if your problem has been fixed yet but the fillament runout sensor can add friction which could explain what is happening. Try routing the filament straight to the extruder.

@@VR_DS If it is the S1 you can send them the warrenty. I've heard people getting returns for much smaller warps.

Which one?!

@@TheEdgeofTech fixing e steps on a Boden setup