For those asking this was using the 'Pro' version of the software. You can do all the calibration with the standard version though. The aperture sharpness and dust checks are via the Pro version though
Glad you didn’t have to buy it. I would test your lens again as you could get quite different results. I used this in 2017 and it looked very promising. However I did more that the one test per lens and it varied so much in the final analysis , it has been updated since so hopefully not as buggy as then , that I found it to be very unsatisfactory and I gained nothing other than loss of time and money! It gave various micro adjustments on retesting in the same conditions and in it’s sharpness testing there were far too many variations as to which was actually the sharpest aperture! I still have all the printed results but Focal didn’t want the whole reports just selected parts, so I cut my losses at that point as enough time wasted.
First thing I do when I'v brought a new lens or camera body but I don't use Reikan Tool, it's a must do thing for pin sharp images. Your Mk 1 lens might require a service never had a Canon myself but I do know Canon lenses are excellent as regards lens sharpness after...
Brilliant video lesson on how to use the Software , i have just bought it and was nervous about starting it up ,not anymore thanks for the great video.
Thanks for the video Rob. Why did you not center the "+" on the test sheet? There where other areas with more image differences than the area you chose. You chose an area that was off center. I would think that would skew your results.
I came across your video because I was not happy with the result of my nikkor 24-70 e 2.8 on my D850 body, from simple test on a target I was at the same conclusion f5.6 was the sweet spot , now here is may question plz: since you have different micro adjustment to the ends of your zoom lens does the mean you go back and change it if you shoot 24 then change it again when you zoom to 70, that is not practical in real life situation, imagine missing moments fiddling with micro adjustment , was there an option to have a number that will be serving both ends of the zoom ? did the software take into consideration that ?
I watched your video and purchased this. Tried it on a very old Canon 5D Mk 2 and it killed the camera. The camera works fine as long as it is hooked to the program. But after you disconnect the camera will only work in live view now. So if you have an older camera you might want to think carefully about this program. I have reached out to FoCal but so far no help other than them telling me to do a reset on the camera which has been done. The camera will only work hooked to their software other than in live view. Just FYI. Update FoCal came through we determined that I had a bad USB cable and the program was putting the camera into Mirror Lockup mode. Resetting the camera setting does not clear that setting I had to go in and turn off mirror Lockup to get the camera to function again. Now to get a new USB cable.
I think that makes my mind up! I’m going to have to get it. Just don’t tell the Mrs I’ve bought something else photography related lol. Another great video Rob, thank you.
Any sugestions for the 105mm f/2.8 macro lens. When I used Reikan it make the focus terrible. I was at the distance recommended for a 105mm lens. My 500mm f/5.8 pf is better without calibrating than after I did.
Were you able to calibrate. I bought it and used it for my 1DX and 80d with my 70-200 IS3 and my old24-70. I haven’t taken any new pics yet because i just finished last night
Just recalled, that calibrating using focal, was the first time I saw just how crappy Sigma lenses are! Even their touted Art series (yawn!), cannot produce even nearly the same calibration settings repeatedly… oddly enough original Nikon lenses of even just normal grade, accomplishes this quite well. My initial reason to test the sigmas, was that they were so highly regarded online, and I kept getting wildly odd results, from sharp to blurry… on the same camera at same focal lengths, almost also at the same scenarios… I just couldn’t figure out what was wrong … was I focusing to sharp from afar sometimes, and from near others? Anyway, Focal brought the issue to light, and the 2 Sigma lenses have been shelved ever since
When I saw this software and the way it's meant to work connected to the computer via cable, I though right off the bat, the software is going to make the magic in a fast and accurate pace. Man! after I have seen the way it works I was so disappointed. The software actually asking you to adjust between the limits of the auto-focus range adjustments then a bunch of in between interactions and the user imputing the values manually into the camera. That's the way I do it using a ruler and a flat contrast chart (focus calibration tool for 35 bucks) or you make your own. It is way faster then this software thing. So many interactions between you doing what the software ask you to do it takes a long time. I see no value in this approach at all. I have done my micro-adjustments on all my Nikkor 800mm, 600mm, 500mm, 300mm and Boy! I finish way first doing my adjustments using a lens calibration tool. and I am imputing an average of 20 cal parameters for each lens calibration. Not that I need. but just for the sake of checking what is the best call parameter in real time. I can actually find the sweet spot of any lens with 5 to 8 interactions. The result is really accurate. I think this software is a rip off to be honest with you, the process is primitive and a pain in the neck. One can finish faster doing with the lens calibration tool.
I wonder if you'll see a perceptible difference, or just know there is a difference and you're delivering the best product you can? I like the idea of both and I like the automation rather than trial and error of so many manual methods that would be more time consuming.
I think it's a bit of both. You can definitely see a difference with you examine the before/after but the actual difference when viewing the photos probably wouldn't be noticed by the average viewer
Really useful video, one thing you forgot to mention (forgive me if i missed it), the normal version only does lenses up to 400mm, you need the pro version for lenses longer than 400mm (like my 600 F4 IS) Ive not tried it yet, but on the strength of this i may well do :)
Seems like a segment talking about results would've been in order. Crazy that your went through all this just to say the software is awesome but not a word about the effectiveness afterwards.
What is also quite important: you can manage up to 5 bodies and since all tests are stored, you can also compare them later to see if your camera or lens is degenerating.
It's pretty normal for a fast zoom to be softer when wide open Rob, same for fixed focal length fast lenses for that matter. Typically, you'd expect a high quality lens's performance to pick up noticeably when closed down one stop, and a cheap lens might need two or three stops. Good video thanks.
that is also my experience.. as the aperture closes, it blocks light at the edges of the lens/glass and that's the portion w/ more optical aberrations/limitations. the center of the glass is sharper both from a manufacturing and optical/geometrical considerations. when aperture is closed all the way down, other issues arise that are detrimental to sharpness, such as light diffraction, signal to noise ratio, etc
You can’t calibrate for different focal lengths in camera though correct? Like the 70-200 it said - calibration for 70 and a + calibration for 200. Will you just have to make a decision on which focal length you use more and calibrate it for that?
I think most Nikon’s only allow one setting per lens, except maybe d850, d5 and 6; certainly on d500 and d7200 only one setting. Recommendation is to set at the longest focal length as that is the narrowest depth of field so most sensitive to front or back focussing; or set at the focal length you use most often.
@@user-go8yr4rc5e My Nikon D750 only allows one. Good info on the focal length. I did wonder how this was going to work with a zoom lens. I'm going to try it with my 24-70 f2.8 👍
The recommended minimum focus distance is different for the 200mm and 70mm calibrations. In your video you show the setup as ~20 feet. My Question is: did you move the camera to the recommended 12 feet for the 70mm setup or did you leave the distance at 20 feet?
Great video. I’m curious. 1. With the 70-200 you calibrate. Can you do focal lengths between. The 70-200 range. So say 100 and 150? I ask as I have a Sigma 150-600 I can calibrate with the Sigma dock. However it is a very timely process. FoCal would appear reduce the amount of time. 2. Would printing a larger target assist with longer focal lengths?
Good video. Wish you would answer the "why" questions at each point. Such as "why" the eyepiece needs to be covered?? Otherwise people might be curious enough to stop and have to Google why that matters. A person could maybe guess, but may be incorrect. But a brief 10 second explanation would really help
Make sure you check the compatible camera list before you buy! I didn’t and now I’m trying to get a refund because it doesn’t work with any of my less than 2 year old Canon EOS mirrorless cameras!
Just found your site - all good stuff especially this subject. One question is whether the software comes with a tether lead and how would I obtain an extension to that lead as my PC is some distance from my garden because I don’t have a laptop?
I’m just using FoCal right now. Got my bodies back from the yearly free cleaning from CPS (Canon Professional Service) and the newest body was not calibrated yet.
I’ve just tried it out on my canon 24-70L on my 5D3. I wasn’t dissatisfied with the images I was getting but sometimes felt there was room for improvement. I have to say I think the images do look a bit sharper.......or maybe it’s in my mind. I’ll have a go with my 7D2 and 70-200 (non IS) and see how that goes.
I agree. Have a 6D, a 6DMKII with 50mm 1:8, 85mm 1:8 and a Tamron SP AF28-75 f2.8 XR Di , and I have to say I have reverted back to doing it manually with flash. Wonder if I can get a refund?
Yup… as excellent, as the Nikon D800 is, it is also equally good at being hard to get to focus consistently… calibrating lenses every now and then helps a tonnes - just be aware of environmental factors, such as heat/cold extremes affecting the setup
So, does the end result just adjust the two micro adjustments in the camera that you can do yourself? Or does it do something more? (other than the reports)
first off great video as I am having issues on my 70-200 f2.8 v3 and my 24-70mm for canon Secondly is this a one time buy? lastly you forgot to add the most important piece of gear on your list and that is the Knicks hoodie! #knicksfan
@@RobSambles also rob sorry to bother you again but if you needed to change the settings I take it if you were to change the lens onto another body you would have to apply those settings
I was worried when going to the site that it would be silly money but even the pro version looks good value, I can see the extra features being of use. Great video Rob, I'm a new subscriber and liking the posts so far, did I see somewhere you're an RRR,s fan?
This software will refuse to do calibration in an EOS R, due to not having autofocus settings in-body. I was hoping that it would still work and that I could use this to calibrate my tamron 150-600, since I have the tap-in console to change the autofocus settings in the lens, but no such luck. I've e-mailed Reikan about it and hopefully they have a way to override the check for whether the body supports autofocus adjustments.
So the software tells you to set the micro-adjustment to -20 then +20, -10 , +10 and so on. Then picks the best setting. So what's the difference between this and doing it yourself? I was considering buying this because I was led to believe the whole process was automatic. You've just saved me £70, thanks.
The difference with doing it yourself, is the image analysis part. It is better performed by the software, than your naked eye. I use Focal and Dot Tune which is a manual process and the results are quite close. The process is a lot easier with Focal, but free with Dot Tune.
Great vid, Rob! I also shoot the 1DX Mark I, but I use the 70-200 version II. I'd be interested to know how that one does. I too have never cleaned my sensor having gotten so used to removing the apparent spots in post. I'd love to see that one as well. Thank you for the video!
Did you use the same shooting distance to the target when you tested the 70mm focal length? Your 20ft distance at 200mm is 30x the focal length (Canon recommends 50x) while for the 70mm it becomes 87x the focal length. Amongst other concerns, this will make the target very small in the viewfinder, making the analysis tasks more error-prone.
The recommended distance is 18ft at 200mm, I did it at 20ft due to the position of the fence. I moved it to the recommended distance for 70mm for that test yes
Thank you Rob! Wonderful video. You saved my day. I have Nikon D7000/D7200 and 18-140mm VR and 35mm f.18 both lenses tack sharp on both the bodies. But I recently bought a newer D7000 as my old one has too many issues due to old age and abuse( been using it since 2012). The newer D7000 had no issues with the 18-140mm but 35mm was way off. I tried AF Fine tune manually and the results were very inconsistent. After watching this video I purchased Reikan Focal Plus and performed the AF calibration test and now the images are awesome. I'm seeing the same kinda results I saw with my older D7000 and 7200. Best Regards... Have a nice day!
The D7200 sensor is legendary! I don’t know if the D7000 was of the same Toshiba-tech, but that D7200! Still have one, use it occasionally, even though I’m onto mirrorless, having done away with calibration altogether!
Good job Rob. You are going to think I have lost it but I have photographed ball players in that I can see the lettering on the uniform sharp, great color, can even see the hair on their arms, BUT the face can be slightly grainy? What is that?
@@RobSambles Still stumped here. I was using ISO1000. f8 and shutter of 3200 or 2500. Faces were in shadow of helmet visor and not moving at bat. Stumped lol Thx again
Hi i get red warning "Camera settings" CENTRE focus point. It say the camera is not currently set up to use the CENTRE focus point". Its AF-S, centre weighted. and i have been searching how to change it, but cant find any info. abt it. The setting is Centre weighted. Focus is in the middle.
@@RobSambles Its Nikon D850 and its single point and its in the centre point (middle of view finder?). Setting is Single shot, AF-S (S). Thx for replying! :) I thought it would be easier with the software compare the old school style :)
So how long will it take on average to calibrate a lens, specifically the 70-200 where you did it twice, once for the min and once for the max? Would you do two tests on a 24-70 or not because it's shorter? And lastly, do you pair that lens on that camera body now, or do you calibrate a second body with each lens so it doesn't matter when you go out, which body has a short or long lens? Sorry for so many questions, but this has always interested me.
No problem with questions. I would say it takes about 10mins once you're setup, not long. For the 24-70 I did two yes, one at 24mm and one at 70mm. You can calibrate one body with multiple lenses, the camera has the option to adjust per lens.
I calibrate all my bodies with all lenses. So it’s a rainy Sunday well spent ;-) When I’m on the field I don’t want to think about which lens goes best with what body... The fastest way is to calibrate by lens because then you don’t need to move your tripod and laptop all the time. And be aware: a 400mm with an extender needs a very long distance.
