Just a quick bit of information on how to clean and how to care for electroplated diamond sharpening plates (stones). (Go and buy the best stropping compound available) stroppystuff.com/
A couple of thoughts.... First, thanks for the video, and particularly thanks for the tip about barkeeper's friend.... I was about to use it on a diamond stone I inherited from my dad. It appears to have some corrosion on it. To answer your question about how corrosion occurs, I live (and my father lived) on the US Gulf Coast. Many household shops are in garages, where temperatures get can go above 125F, 52C, in the afternoon summer heat. The air is naturally full of moisture. The combination of the heat and humidity is like storing tools in a steam bath. Even if you put your tools away completely dry, they will corrode over time unless you wax them or pump LOTs of refrigerated air into the garage. I'll figure out some other way to remove the apparent corrosion. It might just be some of the metal shavings that slide off with a little oil. Thanks again... KB.
I am a very big fan of both your products and your RU-vid videos. You are so articulate and informative, I learn so much from watching and listening to you. Can't wait for more videos I hope you keep this channel going. Also, looking forward to whenever you restock the shop, a lot of the items I want are sold out :(
Thanks Joseph! That's very encouraging. Which products were you interested in? I make them all myself so it's difficult to find the time, but if there is something specific then I can look into it for you. Max.
I wonder if the corrosion could be small amounts of metal from the burr somehow getting embedded into the plate so when people think their plate is corroding its just the small metal pieces rusting when exposed to water that is used as a lubricant.
Yep. I made the mistake of cleaning a diamond stone with soapy water, and putting it back into its plastic pouch before it was completely dry. Within days, it was pumpkin-colored with rust. Used jelled rust remover and a toothbrush to clean it up. Thank goodness it was just one of those cheap and tiny diamond stones coming out of China (16 cm x 2 cm). Lesson learned ... throw away those plastic pouches.
Ok, I’ll defer to you, but both DMT (but the yellow plastic intermittent diamond surface bench stones and their handheld duo sharp folding sharpeners; just read comments and see these don’t apply to your video I don’t think) and UltraSharp (the continuous monocrystaline surface stones) recommend a nylon brush and cleanser / BKF. The UltraSharp also recommends first cleaning with Krud Kutter and only using cleanser in the worst cases. I’m not sure just rinsing with water will be enough to get all the small bits of metal out of the surface, so will probably scrub under running water and rub with a nylon brush, then dry.
Why not use lapping fluid instead of water and avoid the possibility of corrosion all together? I used water once and it is difficult to get a 300 grit stone completely dry and I got a small spot of corrosion (size of a pencil eraser) on my plate. Haven’t used water since and No problems.
Most/lots of lapping fluid use paraffinic hydrocarbon which will kill you if it gets in your lungs. I'd rather use something less lethal when available
I'm glad I came across your channel. Just yesterday I bought some Bar Keeper to clean my Veneve resin-bonded diamond stones. Won't do that! Would a little dishwasher soap and eraser be ok?
Oh you'll be fine with resin bonded diamond stones actually because they don't have nickle in them! This was only for diamond plates. You can clean Venev resin stones with anything really, dish soap works fine too but you also will want to use a nagura stone to refresh the diamonds etc.
@@MichaelE.Douroux It doesn't really matter too much, you just need to abrade some of the resin binding away and expose new diamond. I personally use a Naniwa 600 nagura for everything.
I know there are mixes you can get specifically for the diamond stones for the Tormek, and they prevent corrosion. The problem I seem to be having is with swarf/metal dust build up. I go back and forth between auto glass cleaner, which I heard some one say to use because ammonia in common house hold glass cleaners can bother the plating. I also use the Trend lapping fluid, which does help prevent corrosion. Neither seems to pick up the swarf. I am wondering if the eraser does that...... Maybe try the rubber 'eraser sticks' that I use for cleaning my drum sander belts would work. Any help????
Oh, and another thing..... I have a number of CBN wheels in my shop for all of my lathe tools. I don't know if the same process is used for the plating on them as is used for the diamond lapping plates. The brand that I use, the owner said to use Simple Green cleaner on them or even oven cleaner. Let them sit a bit and wash them off. Not sure what the best way to clean anything is... For some of the CBN wheels, they include a very hard aluminum oxide stone for cleaning up the wheels. Since most of the bowls I make are sloppy wet wood, my wheels do pick up a lot of gunk in between the grit particles. Any comments?
Regarding the wheels, it sounds like you're talking about resin bonded CBN wheels. The dressing stones you're talking about are to rip out old CBN and expose fresh sharp particles and wear down the old binder etc. This shouldn't have to be done very regularly as you should be able to clean the swarf out in between re-dressing without wearing down the stones. You could try using a stoning oil to keep them lubricated and free of swarf. Lots of people rave about using oil on resin bonded stones rather than water. Be a bit careful with the Trend lapping fluid, it contains isoparaffinic hydrocarbon which will kill you if you ingest, vomit and then get that into your lungs (unlikely I know, but you will die). Regarding electroplated tools loading with swarf, I've actually never experienced this. I use them with water, lapping fluid or oil and this seems to keep them clean enough to cut very well. Sorry I can't be of any help on this one.
@@stroppystuff641 The first set of CBN wheels I got were the resin bond type, about 3/16 inch of a matrix bonded to an aluminum wheel. They did give me a hard aluminum oxide chunk of one of their old broken wheels to keep it clean. I had it on a slow speed Baldor grinder, and it would go out of round with lots of use and abuse. I would have to take it back to them and have them true it up for me. Foley Bell Saw, I think was the name of the place. This was before the plated wheels were available, and now every one has them available. They do sell an aluminum oxide stick for 'cleaning' purposes, but I would never use one, they just create huge amounts of dust and don't do that good of a job. Putting them in a tub with some Simple Green and soaking, then hitting with a brush, I use plastic, and that does a good job of cleaning them up. Didn't know about the toxic part of the Trend lapping fluid. I will have to find an alternative. I remember some one commenting that you need a very thin oil on the lapping plates and wheels. Too thick, and it actually inhibits the cutting action. May have to go with that stuff that Tormek sells.
How would it be to use Camelia Tree Oil (pure oil without anything mixed in), the stuff that the Japanese using to protect there swords and knifes ect. 🤔
Shit does it? I've used a splash of water the last couple of times, nice smooth action I'll have a read and go for oil next time see how it feels, wont do any harm.
It's hard to give an estimate based on different uses. If you sharpen in a non professional capacity (a handful of knives a month) then you'll get 2+ years of use probably. If you sharpen professionally then 2-18 months If you regrind knives and remove huge amounts of steel 6-18 months. these numbers could completely change depending on how they are used professionally. But it should give you an idea
If you managed to leave your stone wet for an extended period of time and it started to corrode you don't need to remove it. The corrosion is on the plating beneath the diamond, only the diamond is touching the knife so I don't see the reason to remove it. You'll cause wear on the diamonds trying to remove the rust.
@@stroppystuff641 Nice, the corrosion is very mild but still i was worried about it. I am going to leave it as it is. The plate in question is an Atoma 140 that i use mostly for repairs or flattening the wetstones. It is a great stone that cuts VERY fast! Thank you for your answer. Cheers
@@stroppystuff641 I have an idea, what about scrubbing some slurry from, say a 1500 grit wetstone, with a toothbrush very gently? The fine particles of the wetstone being scrubbed on the surface of the plate should “polish” the corrosion off. 🤔
@@crusader5989 it will probably work yes, but the abrasives in the slurry will cause wear on the diamonds. It will be minimal wear, but wear nonetheless
The manufacturer of "ULTRASHARP" diamond plates say to use Bar Keepers cleaner if the stone develope rust on them. If it will damage their plates, why say to use it. For every day use the say to use "Krud Kutter", and not windex or water. There is no reason your plates should get rusty if you dry your plates properly before storing them.
“Spending money on Barkeepers friend and damaging their plates…” *me looking up from scrubbing my plate vigorously with barkeepers friend. I got it because the manufacturer recommended it. This video is good for some tips to prevent rust but I still have rust and need to find a way to get rid of it.
