You should make a video about all those garbage Tools we never see, so everyone knows what not to buy and why. Noone would have to waste money on crappy tools just to find out that it´s crap.
The 3-stone set version comes with 400, 1000, and 1200 grits and is $13.99. There is also a 2-stone set with 600 and 1000 grits for $9.79 so for $25.74 I got all four grits and an extra 1000 grit stone. Still a great deal! Thanks Rex!
Rex….you da’ man! I just got slammed from my HVAC inspection, and I need a new furnace! 10K plus! Ouch!!!! So if there is anyway that I can “save a dime”, I’m all for it! I owe you a couple of Toasted Lagers! (I just discovered this fine lager from a microbrewery on Long Island….purposefully did not use the name of the microbrewery--wasn’t sure if I was allowed to do so on RU-vid!). Thank you, sir!
I realize you probably prefer to keep videos positive, but I think a video doing a round-up of the cheap tools you've tried out that turned out to be bad could be really interesting. It could be helpful to know what to avoid, or how to look for red flags when buying new tools.
I was going to suggest this also as soon as he said started talking about that. I don’t think it has to be a negative thing either, since a tool can be great for one person, just barely good enough for another, but awful for someone else. But it might be helpful to see the tools he ended up not liking that much just to show that everyone goes through that process in one way or another, buying tools they thought would be great but ended up never using. As long as you’re not dogmatic about it, and don’t insist that everyone will have the same experience with it that you did, so you don’t alienated anyone who does like the tool. But I doubt Rex would have that problem much anyways. And heck, maybe it would balance the market from all the tools he did recommend that then became rare and expensive ;)
I totally agree. Especially tools that look like they'd be a great bargain, but turn out just to be unsalvageable landfill because they used cheap materials or due to shoddy manufacture.
I’m glad to get early access as a Patron!! I ordered these when this video hit my email a few days ago, they’ve now sold out on Amazon and are ranked #1 in sharpening.
Ive found no better, simpler or cheaper method than the traditional technique of simply chasing the burr on a medium grit oil stone and finish with a strop. A norton medium india or a soft arkansas can be had for 16 bucks or less and will outlast most men.
I wonder if people here know who you are lol, ive been a sub for a LONG time, love the content, stones ordered. Since you are mainly by hand, im sure a sharp tool saves alot of effort, and I would say youve put in the effort to know. Love your channel btw. I am building a new house and am incorporating alot of your techniques with my carpenter.
As a toolmaker/machinist, I can assure you that this is definitely the best solution.. particularly if you get a double sided india stone to get your initial bevel fast with the black side. I also recommend a smaller ruby stone which can be had for under $30 and work as good or better than a strop for straight edges.
Mostly yes, but newer crucible steels can gum up an Arkansas stone something terrible. A1, O2, HSS, 1080, etc are fine, but the sintered S35VN, D1, VG10 don’t play well with Novaculite.
These particular plates came to my attention last September. I’ve been using them regularly since and they might be the best diamond abrasives I’ve ever used regardless of the price. They are not showing any signs of bare spots after a lot of use on edged tools , most of which have a Rockwell hardness of 60 or above. Price doesn’t necessarily indicate quality. These plates are working better than others I own that cost five times as much! Definitely a best buy.
I have a pair of those, a 600 and a 1200, used to sharpen my kitchen knives for the past 12 years. They have some minor damage near the edges, but still work nice enough. I paid about 100 bucks on the pair back then, and at that price they were already good value.
What you say about the more expensive plates doesn't at all surprise me, given some of the disappointing long-term user reviews I've read over the years. Those and the frequent can't-tell-the-grits-apart comments! In terms of longevity of this exact type of plate, I think you can expect a good number of years yet based on the experience of myself, some friends and online acquaintances. I've been using my 1000-grit plate as my day-to-day hone almost exclusively since ....goes to check.... early 2016 and as far as I can tell it still works the same as it did after breaking in.
get the plain Chinese diamond plates and they're OK. Certainly cheap enough. I pay a bit more than Rex did but the plates I get are bigger. I get the 3" X 9" size ones. Then I glue them to some 1/4" thick plexi so I can hold them in a stone holder. Because the thin plates are impossible to hold. I call them "Crapton Plastics" Instead of Shapton glass plates. 😀
Your ability to demonstrate and your communication style hooks me every time I watch. Thanks Rex. I am a rookie and your channel is a new one to me and an absolute favourite now. Thanks again.
It's worth saying that the surface of the melamine may be waterproof, but the edges ARE NOT and the board will gradually self-destruct if water goes over the edge. May wanna seal it up somehow.
When water drips over the edge and seeps into the particle board, it will completely warp the melamine board. This guy sounds confident but I’m skeptical
Shipping the whole 4-piece set from whichever US warehouse they sit in to my city in Romania costs, in total, $40. 40 bucks for a set like this, that lasts for years upon years, is chump change. Will definitely look into placing an order soon. This set + a leather strop + green compound + a honing guide, all set up nicely within a piece of lumber, will 1000% provide me with the adequate setup for all of my sharpening needs. Thanks, Rex!
Bought them directly. Nice tip Rex! Had to buy two different packs as the 4 and 5 packs were out of stock. Now got the 400 - 600 - 1000 and 1200 grit for just over $30. They work like a charm! Thnx a LOT!
Got a few old tools recently that need love. Was going to order sandpaper literally today but the 4pack was in stock and it was a no brainer. Thanks, as always.
Hey Rex, long time viewer here: Great video, but I've got two important nitpicks: 1. There are two different types of diamond stones, polycrystalline and monocrystalline. The latter costs more, (though still way less than it used to) but you get much more consistent results because in the former the diamonds break down over time. 2. You should wipe down whatever you're sharpening before taking it to the strop, otherwise you're going to transfer those tiny broken off diamonds onto your strop and it'll scratch the edge you're trying to polish.
Yes, very true on point 2. I learnt that myself the hard way on some mini DMT stones I use for sharpening ice boat runners. If you aren't careful, the abrasive from coarse stones will damage your fine stones.
Hey Rex, a good way to mount the plates on a piece of plywood is to use super glue and painters tape. Stick some wide painters tape down to the plywood the length and width of your plates. Cover the back of your plates with painters tape. Put super glue on the tape that’s on your plywood. Put your plate on the tape on the plywood so you’re gluing tape to tape. Doing this makes it easy to remove the plates to clean them or reposition them. It will work for the strop as well.
Followed your technique, glued the plates as you did, and WOW .... after 12 chisels, I am a fan. Rejected sandpaper and very costly stones. Used the Veritas honing guide, sighted the angle instead of using the paper guide, then I patiently worked thru 12 chisels to a mirror finish. AWESOME. Thank you.
Good information. Am from India, hobby woodworker, here in the villages they ve a much cheaper method. They crush a white transparent stone (don't know what's the name of it, we find it when we dig the earth). They sprinkle that powder on a wooden flat surface. They they hold the chisel and move it to left and right. You won't get a flat beveled edge. It'll have a curvy profile. But it works. It's a old school method. Sparks come out when they do this. After the powder becomes fine and is consumed, they put some more fresh crushed powder
Picked up a set of these based off your video. Using the 400 grit to flatten a spoke shave sole and its working great. Going to recommend these to some of my friends!
Totally agree with this Rex. I have a student who does scary sharp. It does cost. I'm still not convinced that all on the same board is a good idea. Professional Woodworking for 40 years now. Btw I'm loving the latest theme of cheaper woodworking.
I agree about mounting these side by side, Paul Sellers style, being the most advantageous since I _always_ hang chisels and plane irons off the edge of the bench when honing, so individual plates or boxed stones have been and always will be my preference.
Scary sharp may work better pulling as opposed to the traditional pushing into the hone. Different materials often demand different techniques. Not that I'm advocating for scary sharp. I have diamond plates myself. Sometimes being cheap you're only cheating yourself. With woodworking you can often make a sound argument to invest in better tools and materials.
I'm just barely getting into woodworking and I have no confidence at all that I know what I am doing. I bought these stones this morning To my surprise I found this video. It really made me feel good that I bought something and based on this video it's not a bad buy at all. Thanks for posting. It really helped. BTW I just saw your video on the block plane and your comments about the handle had me cracking up.
I have two of these cheap diamond 'stones' glues back to back in my backpack, they are you need to keep your bush-craft knifes and axe more than up to the job :)
I’m doing the same. I’ve got some in the shop, some with my bushcraft gear and also, with my scythes when trimming the property. I may even cut one up to put on my keychain. Glueing a piece of strop leather on the back might be a good idea too.
this came on my recommended. I have never done any woodwork or need to know any of this but for some reason after the first minute in I can't stop watching.
Rex, your influence is amazing!! By the time I viewed your video (just 23 hours after you posted), all stones in your suggested list were out of stock, except for the 2-sided unit. Nicely done! It will be interesting to see how soon they are re-supplied and at what price. Nice video. I've been following you for years (well, since 2020 at least. :=D ) You are the one responsible for beginning my woodworking journey. Without your down-to-earth basics approach to woodworking, I would never have begun. I've gone through all your sharpening videos with you, getting the same equipment and trying it out. Its been a learning experience, and from a retired teacher's perspective, that's a worthy accomplishment. Thank you.
When the scary sharp system got popularized, I had to go to 2 hardware stores and 3 auto parts stores, plus a big box to get a slab of marble to get set up. Inexpensive diamond sharpening plates? Wow! guess what's currently unavailable? You're a trend setter, Rex!!
Thanks for the video. I think my father had me sharpen my first knife when I was 5 or 6, the age he decided I could carry a pocket knife (official Girl Scout 2 blader, lol- it had been my mom's). Then I got to do the hatchet and axe. As I sharpen all sorts of things, I'd never attach stones to a surface. It leaves no knuckle room or blade clearance between stones. I like having a couple heavy bases I can just pop whatever stones into. Just a preference.
The sandpaper method is what you do when you need to put a new edge on a blade. It saves the life of your stones and will do a better job at removing more metal
@@kestans well for sandpaper get the sheets at the store. You then glue them down to a flat surface and sharpen like you would a stone. It will remove much more metal than a stone much faster. Just the paper will wear out after a few minutes in the spot you use. Move to a new spot or use another sheet. If you want to put a brand new edge on a blade this is the best way. Get some 500 or 1k sheet sandpaper and you'll have a brand new perfect edge in like 10 minutes. Then use the stones to polish it.
@@kestans In regards to your metal, it isn't due to the fact that "better metal then nowdays", but due to the kind of steel and temper on the tool used. Wouldn't be surprised if your older tools were high carbon steel with a pretty hard temper. Chisels often are, but (as a result) edges are prone to more chipping vs rolling. Think where the whole "old is better" comes from is that there's a lot more cheaper modern tools that usually skip/cut corners in quality. Can still buy durable, long lasting, or even lifetime tools if you're not just buying the cheapest stuff (this also includes the diamond sharpening stones in the vid, sadly).
Or just use a stone of appropriate grit. I.e. 300 diamond stone for quick removal of material. There's no reason a 400 grit sandpaper would be more effective than a 400 grit stone. Unless the stone is used up.
You have such a natural presence on camera. Many dudes think they do, but they are painful to look at and listen to. You got a true "This Old House" comfort and calmness to you, along with a sweet voice and natural body movements. Im no expert by any means but thats my immediate thought as I watched the video. I came here to see what you had to say about sandpaper sharpening and I enjoyed it so much you got a sub from me and I look forward to watching all your videos. Oh, and I wont waste money on sandpaper now!! I just need to get some them dang stones👊💪
Thanks Rex, I’ve been shopping for diamond stones and have seen these and held off purchasing because of price, I will order these and give them a try. Nothing performs like a sharp tool.
That Melamine board will last about a week before the water (or even humidity) swells all the edges. You need to edge band or seal those edges after construction. Or use moisture resistant coated MDF board from a bathroom cabinet or door. I've been buying a larger completely flat diamond plate from Ebay, they cost under AU$7 delivered, so perhaps US$4.50 each. There is about 10 different grits between 60 and 3000, and the diamond is glued, not electroplated like the expensive stones. The plates are steel that rusts, so I will try this other style as a comparison.
I used to be hyper-aware of the bare board edges on this sort of thing as I've seen them over the years but they all appear to hold up fine in use. Rex's older board with the pricier diamond plates, which he's been using for a few years now, appears to be based on MDF (and I'd bet dollars to doughnuts that it's not MR-MDF) and the edges appear to be perfect. Liquid water I'd be totally paranoid about, humidity less so although obviously individual mileage is going to vary on this. FWIW where I am, temperate climate, the RH is high all year (almost never below 80) and I have a few scraps of chipboard of various types here in the workshop and hidden from SWMBO about the house and literally _none_ have swelled edges from the humidity.
Just my thoughts on the matter but I think that would only really be a problem in areas where humidity fluctuates a lot, such as a bathroom or outside, and since im assuming he's keeping it in his basement which will keep a pretty regulated humidity level it should be fine. That's just my thoughts though since i don't work with mdf so i could be wrong but I'd assume if it stays in a steady humidity it shouldn't be an issue since wood expands and contracts with changes in humidity but put it in a stable climate it doesn't suffer cracking or any damage like that.
From experience. Make Sure to seal the edge of that particle board. If you don't eventually water or just vapor from the air will swell the board and if you're lucky it'll pop the glue. If you're unlucky the glue will hold on and it will actually bend the plate. It's easy enough to slap on some shellac or varnish brush or spray. I love your channel
I actually started woodworking with hand tools after watching your videos, but never used the sandpaper method. I ordered similar cheap diamond plates from Aliexpress and they're still holding up today. They have slowed down for me, but still get the job done. (And for anything requiring a heavy grind I've got a €40 bench grinder /belt sander combo now) Anyways, great video! And it's important that you mentioned lubricating the plates with water, as they will fill up with steel powder if you don't.
Realistically if anyone's going to do this woodworking thing you need a bench grinder with an angle adjustable tool rest to grind the primary bevel. Establishing that by hand is not very efficient.
I have a set of cheap diamond sharpeners I bought from Princess Auto many years ago. Over time they do wear out and perform more like finer grit stones. Even if they wear out, I've gotten a lot of use from my $17 investment. The set came with plastic holder, so I constructed a wooden sink bridge. I can trickle a stream of water to clear the swarf, and the mess goes down the drain.
Not your audience or target demographic, but great charisma with your speaking. Good at holding attention, and you talk well enough to convey your thoughts and messages very clearly. Enjoy your presentation and video editing. Workspace and background isn't the best, but it has personality, as they say. Good job.
Thanks for the vid! I was always skeptical about cheap diamonds and invested in a bunch of DMT stones, each of which costs several times what that entire set does, but this looks like a perfect thing to have in the back of the truck for on-site use!
With the utmost respect sir… I purchased the 3 diamond stone set on amazon and they’re worthless. The surfaces weren’t consistent and left my tools worse than after using paper. I returned them and am still looking for a better quality, reasonably priced, effective/efficient stone. I do thank you for your informative videos.
I was just given a big barn cheap and nasty set of diamond stones for my birthday. Thanks mum. They have no indication of grit size, but from feel they are 250, 400, 600. They are super aggressive. But boy do they do a nicer job of prepping blades to usefully sharp than sandpaper. My tiny 600 grit pocket knife stone delivers a final polish, probably because it was dressed properly. For serious sharp a quick hone on a strop or soft pine takes the burr off. Diamond stones are so much easier, and quicker than the alternatives. My dual sided stone whet stone has been put aside.
I’ve been woodworking for 45 years plus and you might imagine the changes in tools, glues and sharpening that have happened in that time. Some are just fashion and disappear quickly with a lot of our money; others are improvements and some are just different. I have all the Waterstones, oilstones, sharpening paper, diamond stones plus a Tormek; In my view, there are pluses and minuses with all formats. Keeping stones flat or being careful with sharpening paper so as not to rip it; my main issues with diamond stones is/was quality of the diamond layer (maintaining the grit level) and getting stones above 2000 grit. The critical thing for me is to make the regular touch ups as simple as possible. If it’s simple and to hand, then you will do the touch ups much more often. If you’ve got a phaff to touch up, then human nature is to do it less often. I’ve got a pull out shelf under my workbench with the higher grits of sharpening paper on a piece of plate glass - just to make me guilty if I don’t do the touch ups often enough
I like the fact you comment on the passing fads over the years when it comes to sharpening. I always wanted a Tormek but OMG the price.😵💫. Also, that you mention that there are pros and cons to every system. What counts is the result. I won’t work with a dull tool. It takes out the joy. With the exception of card scrapers, when one tool gets a touch up, they all do. Whatever system works for use it!
That glue works even better if you put on 2 thin layers and hit it lightly with a heat gun just before pressing together. I usually am adhering foam to plastics that don't glue well, so I hope you enjoy the tip.
SaaWeet! I went the wet-sand route a few years ago for the reasons you stated, and was just now looking to upgrade with a Wen or Grizzly wet hone for around $150. Not terrible, but $20 sounds a lot better, and that's $130 for a new hand saw to build your Joiner's Bench. I bought 2 sets of plans and am doing a hybrid of the Joiner's and the Minimal Timber. Thanks for the great content, Happy New Year!
Alright, Man! I've been looking blind and ignorant at diamond sharpening stones for a couple of years now. Your cid made up my mind. They'll be here March 25! Good talk.
The author does like to from scratch, ru-vid.comUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. As another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us don’t have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we won’t be able to practise the full stack project, is still great.
Rex, have you tried the colorful 3M lapping paper? I think the scary sharp system isn’t totally dead, if you get the 3M lapping paper instead of sandpaper. You can get 7 sheets with PSA backing (one sheet of each grade) for 20 or 25$, or 10 sheets (one of each grade still) not PSA backed for the same price. I got this over a year ago, and cut the sheets into 6 sheets each. I just put on the third set, and it’s been over a year to a year and a half, and I’m not even sure that I needed to change them so fast. They are plastic instead of paper, so they last much longer than sandpaper usually does. The other benefit of the lapping paper is that they are flexible so you could mount them on differently shaped surfaces to sharpen contoured blades, and you can easily get a second or third setup if you wanted to, of whatever size or shape you want. (Like if you want to leave one in your backpack or in a different office, or share them with a friend). I’ll probably still get some cheap diamond plates because of your video but I wouldn’t at all call scary sharp dead yet.
This is reassuring, because I just bought a set of that lapping PSA paper. I don’t really like the idea that these cheap diamond stones can’t be relied upon for lapping as well.
That lapping paper is fantastic. I tired some of these stones before and honestly I went back to lapping paper. I spent more time sharpening with the stones, and that seemed pointless to me.
Your plan set for all the planes has been an absolute joy for well over a year. I'm glad you explained the break in process for new diamond stones and the reason for it. Over the winter I purchased the set you're speaking of and now that it has warmed a bit it's time to sharpen my toys for the first time of the year.
I love diamond stones and have found this out by trial, error, and then research. However I have found that when I use water rather than the oil that DMT suggests, my stones will get kinda rusty looking. Of course I live on the Washington coast which probably exacerbates the problem. Also if you have the extra time and patience, I love stepping down to fine then extra fine arkasas stones before the strop.
You gotta wash the stone really well after every sharpening session, at least the lower grit ones, otherwise the micro shavings will rust, and then that rusted dust will be pushed into the microscratches on the bevel of your knife or whatever tool you're sharpening. And yeah wet, salty air won't help! PS I inherited a ton of sharpeners that are half rust half stone after my grandpa, it's kinda sad because they're useless, but I gotta say that orange-red colour adds some life to the workshop so they're staying there lol
3m makes a scary sharp PSA lapping microfinishing film. It's meant for lapping metal, has its own adhesive that you don't need spirit's to remove & costs 15 bucks or so for a system with 7 different grits or so. I actually really like it because you get huge sheets you can cut into thirds or fourths for each different grit for that price.
While the 3M lapping films are good, they still work out more expensive than these stones. That said, using it for sharpening gouges or carving tools seems pretty nice, no messing around, just make a channel with the gouge and put the film on it.
I am curious to try these films but i figure if it ain’t broke don’t fix it! Not that I’m stuck in my ways but with me the learning curve tends to be expensive so why change systems when the best outcome would be no difference in sharpness. Maybe some day a PSA film will solve some new problem. Cheers
A few years ago I bought a little 400/1000 grit diamond stone and used it a bit. It was too small to really be any good though. I jumped at these because they're going to be a lot better. Thanks!
Hey Rex, first of all - I really love your content. Honestly, any time I see a new video from your channel, I set aside some time to watch it, knowing it's gonna be worth my time and then some. I would mention though - I do find some of the recent video titles and thumbnails uninformative and even clickbaity. This video is clearly not about sandpaper, but about how Diamond stones are suddenly affordable at a good quality. If I would only now come across your channel, I doubt I'd click a video titled like this. Love your stuff though, and I guess sometimes you just gotta clickbait to keep afloat.
Quite a while back I bought a set of 3 diamond stones from a local seller of, well, cheap junk tools for about $10 Canadian. I did not buy them as sharpening stones! But just as a lark. They have proved invaluable! Not as sharpening stones, but as files, especially for hardened steel parts. Also for de-burring, for sharpening garden tools, etc.
Great video! One thing that bothered me about your use of sandpaper: you were bringing in the tool at the edge, with the result of ripped sandpaper. Why was the resulting rip in the sandpaper a surprise?
Can't sell anything that way. Not sure where he's buying his paper, or how often he's sharpening, but mine lasts quite a while. Oh yeah, that sandpaper is made for body work, right? That means it's made for metal.
@@OldNew45 when I saw Rex’s clumsy use of sand paper as a con for the sandpaper method I suspected that he either didn’t know how to use the method or was just selling. Probably the latter. I find re-sharpening (touch up) to be quick and effective and a set of papers (3 each of 5 grits) last for years. Takes longer to setup the system than to sharpen a tool. I sharpen dry on a sheet of MDF. I do use coarse diamond stones to establish a new bevel like with a new tool or when I drop a tool.😪 I test the result by shaving the hair on my wrist area. I never could get a good feel for sharpness by cutting paper.
@@terryharris3393 yyyyyyyyup. I like a bunch of the stuff Rex has put out, but he's a clickbaiter for sure. I have two different grits, and sharpening chisels is just another thing I can do on a rainy day, or as a wind down at the end of a project/ work day. The one thing I recommend is 3-in-1 oil. Another RU-vid did a big comparison on knife blade lubes, and 3-in-1 did by far the best, so I use it on all my metal that might get rusty.
My basic all purpose kit: Norton JB-8 presoaked combo crystolon oilstone; one soft and one "hard white" Arkansas stone, 6" or better; and a wooden paddle with strap leather glued to two sides and loaded with black emery compound on one side and green chromium oxide on the other. The oil I use is Norton honing oil. At each grit, I mark the edge with sharpie ink. Then I pick up the stone in either hand, and the knife or tool in the other, and remove the ink with the stone, freehand, before proceeding to the next grit. Could be a full run of grits or only a touch up on the finest stage or anything in between. I've been doing this for over fifteen years and have tried everything, and this is the most cost effective, portable, and low-maintenance way to get reliably excellent results. Of course, there's more to the whole sharpening story, but this is an unbeatable basic kit that can go anywhere and sharpen any edged hand tool in any state of disrepair.
Use figure-8 strokes. You'll get a better edge and you won't slice up the paper. It also helps to begin your stroke *on* the paper, and not behind it like you demonstrated. :) But yeah, diamonds are incredibly cheap and plentiful; we're just told they're rare by the companies hoarding them.
Great stuff as always Rex. I would suggest not using these thinner economy grade diamond plates for lapping. They have too much flex and the grit inconsistencies will just make the lapping work harder.
Rex, I enjoy your work and videos. But, I have been using 3m very high grit sand paper the same set for over a year. Sharper results from any stone I ever used. I still remain aware that there might be issues with this method, but I really love this system.
@@RexKrueger give it a week after this goes live. I can about guarantee that the diamond stones in your link will be in short supply. And thank you for the time and expense you put into all of your work. I consider you a mentor in my woodworking.
I use the sharpening method Richard McGuire talks about, a course diamond stone(300 grit or so), Norton India stone( the fine side) and a strop. I have also heard the duel sided stones(400/1000) that are $25 on Amazon and a strop works well too.
I got a pair of Atomas (expensive but very good!), #600 and #1200. Those plus a strop handle nearly everything I regularly use. I have a cheap no-name #400 for regrinding edges and it's been fine. Good enough that I picked up a few cheap plates to use as loaners. Quality is inconsistent, but if you get a decent one, it will last for years. One thing I am considering is lapping paper to use for my carving tools. I don't own very many and they don't come out often, but they do need love from time to time. My plan is to carve the profiles onto a wood or plastic block, then apply the lapping paper.
I have been waiting to ot either of these sets. Both are out of stock. They are excellent stones. Another woodworker suggested I purchase them. Thank you for sharing this with us today from Henrico County Virginia
I love the idea of sandpaper of a planar material... but never liked the idea for sharpening tools lol. I've tried, I suck at it. BUT I've used it for sanding small parts and bits :D Oh, and bonus! When these wear out, you've got 4 blanks for templates :D
My Cricut Explore Air 2. I have used it to make stencils and decorative elements for pieces. Once I get the supplies in, I'm going to try using it with wood burning gel to put burnt in writing onto my work pieces without a laser burner
Have you time tested these? The reviews say the grit where’s out, kinda hope that is not the case! I’d really like some cheap stones, I haven’t looked really hard but most of what I’ve seen was like $90 bucks each! I kinda need save for a computer, and then a car 😬
Cheap stones aren't really accurate on grit rating but it doesn't matter as long as you have something coarse, medium, fine etc. Expensive stones also vary a lot as grit rating aren't one standard. These should last you a while as he said he's used them heavily for some time in the video, but don't expect them to last year's on daily use
for a pretty good, cheap diamond stone see if you can get a faithful 400/1000 combo diamond. it isnt the best, but its pretty good, and when you can afford a better set up, you can use it for lapping, which is what i did with mine when i got a set of dmt.
The kind of wear you get depends on how you use them. There's definitely wrong ways to use diamond plates. The universe is full of idiots too. Rex said he uses his plate dry but I wouldn't recommend that myself. I use a super cleaner as a stone lube. Everyone that knows what they're doing uses some kind of a lube. I've killed plates using them dry myself. How you bed your plate in will affect its service life.
@@1pcfred That's not quite accurate Paul. Rex said he uses the one bought _for his turning tools_ dry (at least in part because he's doing a lot of it freehand with the plate taken to the tool, not the other way around). He clearly uses and advocates using some type of liquid on bench plates.
Hi Rex. Just three words for you, Rubber cement thinner. A common brand is Bestine. Made specifically for glue… even works on bumper sticker glue and won’t damage the car finish. Well worth the $. Dissolves permanent marker too. 🙂
When you buy more expensive stones, usually you are paying for thr plate itself (just a slab of metal beneath the surface), and that they're using the good method to fix the diamonds to the metal. The diamonds are really just at the surface of the plate, so you dont need a thick plate. That can be comfortable at times used by itself for some purposes like sharpening kitchen knives, but it is not essentital to the construction (unlike regulad stomes that you wear and thin down as you use).Kitchen knives hand are part of the reason stones are exoensive. Long story very short, there is prestige and tradion amd status in that sorta thing, so a big chunk of that price is really a posh "tax" to put it with no romanticism. So yes, the el cheapo thiner ones can be surprisingly cheap. They use less material and possibly cheaper, less labor/machining time, and they've no prestige to inflate prices, and none of those factors inherently impact quality soit is possible to make them.cheap and good.
@@jimcarter4929 That is the "that they're using the good method to fix diamonds to the metal" bit. Still, economy of scale. Sure, just gluing it (the shit method in a nutshell) is obscenely cheap per piece, but I suspect the electroplating method (the good method) in bulk shouldn't raise the cost per piece all that much either, specially nowadays.
I love my Atoma diamond plates (600 and 1200). They're expensive but very well made. Monocrystalline diamonds electroplated in regularly spaced clusters to a thin steel plate, which is glued to a machined aluminum plate. You can buy a replacement steel plate to refresh a worn out surface, or attach it to the back of another aluminum plate to make a two sided stone. The patterned bonding helps channel the swarf and the bond is strong enough that I didn't experience much of a break-in period. I have cheaper (polycrystalline) diamond plates also. They work pretty well once they're broken in. Just be sure to wipe your edge down before changing grits or you'll get diamonds from the rough grits onto your polishing plates. I use them for the more aggressive grits that I don't need as often, and for when I travel or have friends over who want to do some sharpening with me. If you're just starting out, those cheap diamond plates are fine. They'll last for years. My atomas are wonderful but a totally unnecessary luxury.
I never did sharpen with emery paper, because I had a father who could sharpen, we used oilstones, just like everyone else, almost never stropped, and made whatever we wanted.Exactly like the joiners shop up the road. I still carry an oilstone on site. Later I came across Arkansas stones and that black German stuff in cabinet shops. Again, until recently most woodworking tools, that made all that wooden-stuff we are surrounded with, were sharpened on a double sided india stone covered in oil
@@drooten Just now got notification of your comment Andrew...🙄 Well, ... paint would do it I suppose... or you could thin down some silicone with acetone so it sinks in to the "grain"... 🤔 Well diluted silicone is great for waterproofing stuff like tarpaulins etc.... A thicker mix is good for dipping tool handles into to give a "rubberised" grip... Edit.. just to mention... it must be pure silicone (which is usually the cheapest) , not any of the fancy caulks.... 😎👍☘🍺
I just got a set of diamond stones. I got a jig with a wider wheel because the other one was too hard for me to keep level. I really like the results, and I mostly fixed my chisels.
I tried sand paper once… never did it again. Went straight into nicer diamond plates. Well worth it. A small investment for a lot less problems down the road
From my experience, the best sandpaper for sharpening knives, chisels, and plane irons is automotive grade silicon carbide sandpaper. I like to start at 400 grit and go up to 800 grit, finishing at 1200 grit if it's a soft stainless steel like that found in most kitchen knives. If the steel is much harder, I like to finish off at 3000 grit and strop or polish with a 5000 grit or higher grit medium. If there is no edge, I start off real coarse, like at 100 grit or even 80 after using the file. After that I do 220-grit to get it ready for actual sharpening. Diamond whetting plates are pretty good (and reusable) and I use mine frequently.
When I started woodworking 45 years ago my grandpa and my dad showed me the honing stone way and I've never done anything else. My chisels, kitchen knives, hunting knives, turning chisels, everything; you can shave with lol.
Well you can get waay bigger sandpaper sheets for about 0.10 cents and even less if you buy a lot of them. Also you can get sandpaper for hard steel which will last much longer than those and it is still a lot cheaper than the diamond stones. THe diamond stones are also not infinite so you will eventually need to replace them. Using the diamond stone only really makes sense if you need to sharp carbide tools.
You should update your old video with this recommendation. I often view videos on channels like this from oldest to newest so it's good to know when a procedure has been deprecated. Thank you for the update!
Absolutely fine for most wood tools. The diamonds aren't bonded to the surface very well on these very cheap stones, and extremely high hardness or high carbide steels can peel them right off the "stone".
I remember using 2000 grit paper wrapped around a dowel and using it to sharpen knives decades ago when i was in my teens. I also remember ray mears showing how the edge of a car window could also be used as a fine stone. It works quite well
I still do the Scary Sharp, having learned from mistakes. I use a marble tile for a base instead of plexiglass. I do not try to glue the sandpaper to the base anymore-I simply clamp it down with spring clamps. I found the honing guide shown in the beginning to be utter crap-very difficult clamp straight. The best $80 I ever spent was for the Veritas honing guide. I can easily set blades squarely to repeatable angles.
I saw one of these plates recently that a buddy of mine uses to soften cut edges of tile and he’s been using the same one for several years. I hadn’t even thought about using it for my chisels.
I actually saw these on Amazon a few days ago and thought "They can't be any good". I mean I was REALLY of the opinion that they were too good to be true. So thank you very much for this report on the particulars regarding the "Scary Cheap" method of sharpening. I'll be ordering mine right now.
I've been using 3M lapping film. No glue, they have more grit selections in a pack, and they last much longer than wet/dry paper. Use them to sharpen tools and straight razors. I've been using the same pack for years.
I just (Aug 16, 2022) ordered a four-stone set from amazon for $14.99 (reduced by $5). Less a 7% coupon. Less a 5% credit on my amazon prime credit card. They charged $13.94 plus state tax. Then I get a 70 cent credit. Thanks for the tip, Rex.
I bought the four stone system upon your recomemdation and they are really wonderful. I have used wet/dry sandpaper and work at a hardware store so the paper is reasonable for me. However, that will be a thing of the past. I work on a budget so thanks Rex i have gone to diamond. Patrick from Idaho
Thanks Rex! Spring is on track and my barn workshop is opend again. And, some of my cheap water stones are frozen to death. I forgot to remove the water out of the storage box. Everything which doesn't like temperaturs beneath 5C I brought to the house, exept, the water stones. So your advice comes to the right time.
Yeah stones don't like to freeze. I had some spall here on me. Diamond plates are better than water stones are anyways. Unless you have traditional Japanese woodworking tools. Then water stones make sense. Otherwise use diamond plates. They stay flat and cut faster.
This is in no way an advocacy for what I just did, but, I ground my initial bevel with a honing guide and a RANDOM ORBITAL SANDER! I used a little water, 220 grit sandpaper and VERY gentle pressure. I followed the rest of the process in the video to the tee with sanding blocks bought off Ebay. I've tried a ton of different methods, including a bench grinder, and the scary sharp method, and nothing worked. The plane is a 70+ year old Dunlap jack plane I got at a flea market for $7. This is the first time I've gottne clean shavings out of this, or any plane. :-D
