I would use the centering cone completely opposite of what you have shown. Having the cone below the baseplate and facing the router raise the motor and allow the cone to slowly center the baseplate as the baseplate zeroes out to the router base. The way you have demonstrated leaves more tolerance than having the cone opposite. I completely agree on using the second method for tight tolerances. Thanks for the video.
Mejor video en la RU-vid sobre este tema, muchas gracias por tan buena información... Best video on RU-vid on this topic, thank you very much for such good information...
Hi there! I am new to routers and have been watching your videos and learning a lot! Thank you very much. What do you think of this centering tool: POWERTEC Router Subbase Centering Pin & Cone Set w/ 1/2" & 1/4" Inside Centering Guide & 1/4" Outside Centering Guide? Have you any experience with it? I was thinking of getting it instead of the cone and the inlay set is too pricey for me now. Please keep the vids coming and thanks again. Ed
Hello Ed! Thank you for watching my videos. Sorry, I don't have any experience with that specific tool. Now depending on what type of work you are doing you may not even need to worry about it being center. Feel free to reach out more if you have questions... I'm always here to help.
Great informative video! Thanks! One question, though... I won't be doing inlays but I do like the brass bushing/centering pin method for centering the base on my Bosch router over the less exact centering cone method option so, is there a way to purchase the brass bushing and centering pin without the need to purchase the spiral cutting bit that comes with the inlay kit?
Thanks for the vid. Recently I’ve had a similar task to doing inlay and “got by” but didn’t like the result. I wanted to recess a dial indicator gauge into the end of a piece of wood to make a jig. I thought of using a pattern bit to go around the outside shape but then couldn’t figure out how to get the negative of this shape so that the routed out shape would be a tight fit to insert the dial indicator. Any suggestions of how I could have done this?
Hey Chris! If I'm understanding you correctly this is what I would do. First, trace out the shape of the dial indicator on a piece of 1/4" plywood/hardboard (or some other kind of template material), and cut it out with a jig saw. Then, sand the profile smooth until you are happy with the pattern/shape. Next, place the pattern on top of the wood you are looking to recess the dial into, and use a pattern bit to cut out the shape. This video shows using the pattern bit I'm talking about ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BXxk5fec4QY.html Not sure if that makes sense or is what you are looking for. Let me know.
Question: Would you not have to use the cone if you were doing the bushing method? Seems like you wouldn't. Plus thanks for the video, didn't even know there was such a thing!
Quick question, does that bushing sit flush inside the adapter? I bought a Rockler Sign making kit and I’m finding the bushings on all 3 sets do not sit flush inside the adapter. I have a 1/16” protrusion above the base plate. I have not tried to force it flush with channel locks, just hand tightened.
@@TrainingHandsAcademy I think I’ll try picking up another set of PC-style bushings and seeing the fit so I can see which is the culprit. If it’s the adapter, then I’ll just wait for the jasper tools base plate to come in because I can ditch the adapter and SEE my template better. Love this channel for learning. Keep up the great work!
That's a great question! Any router that has a removable sub-base will need to be checked for center. However, this mostly comes into play when you are using an inlay kit like the video shows. If you like my style of teaching, and you'd like to learn more about routers, I do have a new beginners course out. bit.ly/3DcIeE3
@@aloysiusmachacon4698 All I can offer right now is my content here on YT. Please let me know if you have any questions after watching them. Best of luck my friend!
