My name is Josh Fedorka, and I’m the founder of Training Hands Academy™. I have been a carpenter and woodworker for over 25 years. I have also held certifications in home energy auditing and have built several LEED certified homes in New England.
God has gifted me with many “hands on” skills and it is my calling and purpose to share those skills by teaching others. Whether it is to seek a career in carpentry, become a general contractor or improve one’s DIY skills and knowledge, the motivation behind THA is to help others successfully learn how to work with their hands.
Training Hands Academy 1441 New HWY 96 W STE 2 #411 Franklin TN 37064
You are so welcome. If you like my style of teaching you might also really like my beginner online router course. Check it out here if you want. bit.ly/3DcIeE3
You are so welcome. If you like my style of teaching you might also really like my beginner online router course. Check it out here if you want. bit.ly/3DcIeE3
That's the last house I built in Maine when I was still building LEED certified homes. That house was a net-positive home, meaning it put energy back into the grid.... very cool house.
0:35 So you're saying that a 3/8" drill by definition is not high quality and does not have a lithium-ion battery. I suspect you didn't mean to say that but it's what you said. Size of chuck and quality/battery type are not dependent upon one another.
I was looking forever on how to replace s small shed roof over an add on bathroom to my shore bungalow, main structure built in 1927! Thank thank thank thank you!!!
I have that corded Bosch and it's one of the best tools I've bought but what I came from was an old Black and Decker and a cheap harbor freight so I pretty much could only go up from there.
As most have given positive comments about your good information and effective teaching, I would like to add that your video production, camera angles, and editing are top notch. Most people do not appreciate the time and planning it takes to set up a video like this and edit it down to such a well paced instructional video. Well done.
Loads of videos on you Tube about the Drill Guide and the Main Complaint is they Topple over if put at an Angle at 45° + and when using Forstner Bits &Big Drill Bits. And here is the Solution that Solves all those problems Simple but effective.
Great video, I am now running faster than Husein Bolt now, YEAH! 🎉 But where/how do you measure the bird’s mouth in relation to the angle cut at the top end though? Total run? Unit run? Or when I run? 😅😂 Please! Thanks! 😅 In your example would be great.
When building cabinet face frames (that will have a countertop), wouldn’t the maker elect to have the rails run the full width of the cabinet and rest on top of the stiles? In this way, the rails transfer load from the countertop/surface to the stiles and prevent sagging.
Thanks for the tips. One thing I noticed about blade left or right. Depending on the blade size there might not be much of a choice. For example, at HD/Lowes I only see blade right circular saws for 7-1/4 while blade left are 6-1/2 and smaller.
10" in the minimum unit run for codes, and is the most common that is why I choose that. You will need to check with your local codes on what is acceptable. Hope that helps.
at about 5:30 you explain that you set tghe square to 17" from the standard 12" because its a hip rafter. Is it always set to 17" ? I would assume, but im not sure how it goes from 12 to 17. Great videos though!
If your builder put OSB treads on the stringers, should I remove those treads before installing finish treads? Or, can I just put finish treads over the OSB? Or how about vinyl planking over the OSB? Thank you. PS I love the cutting the kerf/joist hanger trick!
I would not go over the OSB. I'm glad you like the hanger trick... check with codes to see if that's still good. I've never had problems with it in the past but they do make better hangers now a days that are better.
Hi do you have any videos on cutting based on different angles for curring braces etc. I am happy to buy your course if you have one. I have digital angle finder etc etc.. but i get confused .. especially to add braces on square or rectangle..
I'm retired now and did not get the chance to cut many roof's. Very well explained. For whatever reason, I'm revisiting how to do hip roof's. When I was a kid Dad showed me how to step off rafters. I used the calculator you're using here. Or Reichers book. Thanks for posting.
Great job on this … built some acq stairs in my father in law’s back yard off a 5 ft high porch and they came out great. Almost did it from memory after watching a week or so ago but I scribed out the run and rise backwards the first time … one quick rewatch of the layout and I was all set. Thanks for your contributions to RU-vid U!
As a total beginner this was very useful to me. Thank you. I could have done without the background music though as that just makes it harder to hear and concentrate.
I followed your instructions to the letter and my stairs turned out perfectly! I can't thank you enough for passing along your wisdom to those of us who need it.
Just a couple questions: is there anything holding the panel in? Caulk? If it shrinks how do you keep the paint line from showing? Also, any reason not to drill the holes for the cup hinges before assembly? Lot easier to hold on a drill press
Most of the time the plywood panel doesn't shrink past the paint line (that's why I recommend using plywood or MDF panels). It does happen now and again. With solid panels gluing is a firm no. The panel needs to move and if it can't, it will split. Gluing plywood panels might be a different story? However, I still don't glue mine and I haven't had issues. Sure, you can drill those before.
Around 10:35 minutes in the video you say by moving 10 degrees to the left you cut at 54 degrees, but this would be 10 degrees less than 45 so would be 35 degrees. Am I misunderstanding something?
I want to make some retangle holes 7/8" x 2.5" in 3/4" plywood. I have some 1/8" clear acrylic that I could make a template from. How would you accomplish this task? Would you make the template from the acrylic and how would you go about that with accuracy? And then what router bit would you use to cut it out in the plywood? Any detail would be appreciated.
You can use woodworking tools to cut and shape acrylic. However, I normally build my out of MDF... I find it easier. I cut them out with a jigsaw and used an oscillating spinal sander to smooth them to make them perfect. It's not really easy, but it does work. I have an online router course that covers all of that and more if you find yourself needing more instruction. Once you make a template you can use a template bit which has a top bearing that rides along the template and cuts the wood below... like the one in this video. I hope that helps. Here is the course if you find that you need it. courses.traininghandsacademy.com/courses/beginners-handheld-router-course/
