today im showing you my way of how to change a head gasket on a d series honda civic engine. hope this helped you in some way and hope you enjoy watching
Make sure there is no oil or coolant in the holes in the block for the head bolts. Blow out with compressed air. If oil is in there, tightening down the head bolts can crack the block.
Did my timing belt cuz the water pump was leaking, couldn't get it tensioned enough despite following 4 different youtube videos, thought I had it good enough, a few weeks later I downshifted to go around a roundabout and jumped timing. ONLY 2 teeth, but I think I smacked a valve, because now I got 50psi in the 4th cylinder, and 180 in the rest. Hoping I didn't screw up piston rings or anything so this job that you just did doesn't turn into me pulling the rest of the engine.
Did you get all the air out of the cooling system? Air will cause the high idle as well as the high temp. The exhaust manifold on there has a tendency to crack around the upper O2 sensor near the head. Can seem like a gasket issue but hairline crack. Can be hard to see. Good luck.
Great video! I have a D16z6 with 245k miles in a 95 civic sedan. I plan on swapping that engine to another 95 civic but coupe. I have no heating issue but you think I should replace the head gasket or just leave it as is until I have symptoms?
Leave it as is but when you do go to do it do not I repeat do not take out the timing belt tensioner bolt it will strip it completely out if you do helicoil it. I did it on my d16z6 same as yours the ex sedan
Hey there, I am not in the same exact engine as this, but a 2nd gen. 1500. Do I see a red one in the pop up garage? MY one 1500 definitely has a head gasket leak, 2 low compression cylinders. Been dreading the job due to life events causing low ability to devote the time.
I see the part where you slip the belt off, instead of dismantling more and getting at the tensioner etc. On my EW 1.5 I have roughly 185k miles on it and think I ought to do the tensioner, new belt the whole 9 yards. Do you know if it is simpler to do so on that engine vs this one you demo?
So while your doing this, can you change out water pump and iming belt at the same time? I’m replacing all 3 plus the spark plugs. What do you recommend
The hardest part about changing the water pump, is removing the lower timing cover. It's easier in an eg and even an ek, but tougher in the ef models. But you absolutely could. After removing the lower timing cover, everything is pretty simple, just nuts and bolts. There is an o ring to keep the water pump housing from leaking, so make sure you keep an eye on that when putting it on, and you can Google/RU-vid how to put the engine back in time and properly use the tensioner. Also a very simple process on these single cam engines. If you run into any issues or have any more questions be sure to let me know! I'll try to help the best I can
Or someone poured in stop leak and plugged the radiator fins or a coolant passage. Or the fan is weak or not getting a signal but probably wouldn’t affect it at highway speeds. Or the water pump is going out.
The car has been sitting since, we've just been so busy but there will be an update video soon! Our boy speedy tuning is holding the car he's going to throw a radiator in it hopefully this week! Sorry I haven't posted but I'm about to start posting!
@@jameshughes131 whats that mean? If I understand correctly the part that makes a VTech is the valve train. What does the difference in water jacket blockage do?
@@ItsSIR2YOU117 I don't know somebody was saying that the non VTEC one had blocked off holes. The gasket for the VTech in the non VTEC are different from my understanding
You needed to copper spray the head gasket for good seal. Thats only gonna last you less than a year if that. You should’ve also taken the head in to get machined and part washed to ensure a better seat on the gasket
Just did one on mine because it blew and never got it looked at. I slapped it together and it’s perfectly fine even after a 8 hour road trip Hondas are bulletproof
You should definitely get the head skimmed if the car has overheated. If the engine has never overheated, chances are it'll be fine. Many of my mates have changed head gaskets without skimming the heads. No issues afterwards.
Thank you for the feedback! Believe it or not it was the radiator! And I need that kind of input I'll be checking my music volume. I appreciate you watching!
@Only4Cylinders ay man I got my girl a 96 Del sol with the d16y8 and were having the same issue. Coolant and pressure in the coolant reservoir. I'm curious about you saying it's the radiator. I can see the cooling system is HELLA rusty and nasty. I did the thermostat on it as it was Stuck open but now it's running correct temp but doing what yours was. Any tips?
@Only4Cylinders I'm going to bring my head gasket leak detector tester tomorrow and see of I get anything with that. But I'm kinda curious to run some hard-core coolant flush (to get into the engine sleeves and clean up all the nasty shit even in the heater core.) And then swap out that radiator
@@stealthhelp I would say replace the radiator and go from there. It worked for me in my dad's crv as well. So hard to believe but it worked. It may have been a situation but it did. If you can manage doing the head gasket that was usually my answer to solve an issue like this but a radiator is an easier attempt for sure so why not start there 🤷
