In this video I change a single hole basin mixer tap in a vanity unit. This job was made more difficult, because the new flexible tap connectors were too short and so the pipe work had to be extended.
This tap started leaking the day before I went on holiday (typical). After my return and extended holiday, I bought a new tap. Unfortunately fitting this was not simple, I’m just glad that I have a lot of plumbing components in the garage 😉 Please spare a thought for plumbers, who have to do crap jobs like this on a daily basis! I hope everyone has a great Sunday 😉
Hello. Can i ask why you would need to put in a flexi tail adaptor please? On a normal fitting, would it be ok just to screw on the flexi tail straight onto an isolation valve? Appreciate any guidance. Thanks
@@karimabdullah2925 Years ago, I was told by a plumber (ex-British gas) that you could just connect the flexi to a compression fitting or isolation valve, but they are not flat, where it connects to the flexi tail. Now you can get flexi tail adaptors (which are flat) and you can also get compression isolation valves with a flat end that are specifically for connecting up flexi tails. fave.co/2JMj3xb Thanks for the comment
I just want to say that I have fitted or replaced 3 or 4 of these and I know how to do it. Nevertheless, when this video popped up on my subscriptions list I wanted to watch immediately. The reason being is that it's just a joy to watch you do jobs and listen you to explain things thoroughly and concisely. Thanks for everything you share. 👍🏼
I always make sure to have a roll of blue paper towel when doing any plumbing work. It's much easier to see if anything is leaking using the blue paper towel compared to white kitchen towel. Thanks for the video and proving you are also a contortionist; fitting a camera, your tools and yourself under that sink at the same time : )
Don't bloody mention bathrooms to me after the week I've had😬😬😬. You did excellent getting you camera round under the back of that sink👍👍. Very good demo cheers👍👍.
Great instructional video for a woman who does her on DIY jobs in the house . Thanks a lot . Now just need to get long pipe spanner set & am ready to replace my old vanity basin tap 🚰 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👌🏽
A very useful video for anyone who is not used to doing this kind of work. Must have been a nightmare getting the camera and lighting correct. Well done mate and thanks 👍
Brilliant idea using the ratchet on the box spanner! I use blue paper roll rather than kitchen roll when checking for leaks. If the blue roll gets wet it changes colour, making it easier to spot the leak. I learned that from my uncle who is a plumber.
Great video, as usual. My tips are if you can dismantle the waste pipe. Even if you have to purchase a new joint to reconnect. Saves time. Do not install the flexible connections until the tap is in securely in place. As you said the joint only needs to be hand tight and if these are not in-situ before fixing the tap in position then it leaves just that little bit more room to do up the fixing nut(s).
Yeah, this was an awkward one. After spending 3 hours filming it, I probably spent over 20 hours editing the footage (mainly editing out the swearing) Thanks for the comment 👍
Really useful vid and reassuring to see even you had a small weep of water on one joint, this only ever happens to me when things are fitted in the most awkward of places or as I’m packing up to go home. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Yeah, whoever installed the two water pipes so close together (and so close to the waste pipe), did not do me any favours. Tiny weeps are often inevitable with compression fittings, but are normally easily fixed. Thanks for the comment 👍
it my look a simple job but awkward place to work and if you don't have a the right tools and the knowledge it my turn to be complicated job enjoyed the video.
Great video thanks. Would be great to see a video on the turning cold + hot water off sequences. And also, how to avoid air locks, especially hot water. Cheers
I'm afraid I have a combination boiler, so it does not matter in my house, I just switch off the main incoming stop tap and it stops the hot and cold water. Thanks for the comment 👍
Good video again Chez. You managed to do it without all the grunting and swearing I normally do. I think anything under a sink or washbasin is my least favourite job. There always seems to be a ruddy great big "black 'arry" spider up there as well just waiting to run down your arm!
I had not seen them before, but just found them on the BES website- www.bes.co.uk/flat-faced-straight-isolation-valve-15mm-x-1-2-bsp-pm-23573 They are a great idea 👍 Thanks for the comment
This job is even harder when you've got arthritus in the hand that is the only one you can get in there and you wear glasses and they keep slipping . Saying that I don't usually have a problem using Jedi skills from years of experience. Again great vid ,thanks
A very good video. When I have to use compression fittings (much prefer soldered) I always use PTFE tape. Seems odd not seeing it used. Almost asking for a leak.
@@ultimatehandyman I've found PTFE tape useful on compression fittings at my Mums. She's had a plumber in the past who apparently liked to 'He-Man' everything and some of the pipework is well crushed; the tape comes in useful for when those joints & fittings inevitably fail suddenly.
@barry allan The tape reduces the likelihood of fittings seizing from corrosion over many years. Otherwise you may waste time and effort having to cut fitting apart, extend and re-braze as such.
Can you please tell me the make and supplier you purchased the box spanner as I can't find one that has this ratchet attachment at any shop near me or online either. Great video I have one to do myself soon so you times it well.
It is just a standard box spanner, I think this is the set that I bought- fave.co/3pQF2EZ Then you use a ratchet and a socket on the end of the box spanner Thanks for the comment 👍
@Ultimate Handyman: Just to make life a bit easier: put a little bit of Silicon Caulking (I don't know what you'd call it in the U.K.) onto the inside of that _'Extended Spanner'(?)_ (we'd call that an extension) days before you'd use it. It's so it'll keep a slight amount of grip onto whatever Nut, or Part you're about to screw-down into place! This way, you're not in danger of having to chase-down small, lost parts thoughout the confined space if they fall out! Next: put some Silicone Caulking (Still don't know what you'd call it over there) onto the face of that _'Horseshoe'_ and *_THEN_* seat the Rubber Gasket on top of that! It'll both keep it in place during install, and it will also protect against future Corrosion Damage later on!
Good video mate 👍 i changed the taps on my bath recently no room whatsoever nearly broke my back on my side tryna reach the old nuts with some right angled grip spanner thing i bought from screwfix, keyhole heart surgery would of been easier 😂
Yes, but that would have meant a trip to the next town ( 10 mile round trip). Sometimes it is just easier to extend the pipes ;-) Thanks for the comment 👍
You can just use a compression flat faced isolation valve on the end of the plastic pipe, you will of course need a pipe insert. www.bes.co.uk/flat-faced-straight-isolation-valve-15mm-x-1-2-bsp-pm-23573/ This video might help- ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OuOdkjMLFKA.html&t
There was no need to. It can be difficult getting the old olive off, so removing it is not something I'd do unless it would not re-seal. Thanks for the comment
I understand they are difficult to remove.. I was of the opinion they are one use only, I understand now this might not be the case. really like your videos, took a lot away from this one as well as the rest, the box spanner idea is definitely something I will use next time I have to do this as the access on most sinks is extremely limited.. keep up your good work!
I thought about changing the cartridge, but I normally only change the cartridge when they are leaking from the spout, not from the body of the tap. The chrome was pitted as well, so opted to change the whole tap. The last time I replaced a cartridge, I filmed it- ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-a2prr9ZiFxA.html Thanks for the comment 👍
Good video. Question: what do you have to do when it's a kitchen sink mixer tap and the cowboy kitchen fitter has made sure you can't access the tightening nut? Does the sink have to come out?
Yes, if you can't get to the nut, you can remove the waste trap, then remove the clips holding the sink down, then flip it over. Thanks for the comment 👍
You will only find a problem when you isolate the valve, with mains pressure water behind it. When they are manufactured they install the ball from one side, and they are designed so that the water will flow through that way. But if they are installed the wrong way around, when the isolation valve is shut and there is pressure behind it, the ball can be forced out- which will get you very wet- very quickly!
The trouble I had is that the pipes go through a small hole cut into a cabinet and I can't reach my hand up to get to the nut that tightens the tap. Tried box spanners but can't see the nut so a pain
@@ultimatehandyman trouble is I can't get to that as they put a cupboard there. I'd have to dismantle the cupboard which is a pain... Or just guess where the nut is ...
Top Tip: If the flexi tails are supplied pre-packaged and bent double or triple, bound with cable ties or elastic bands DO NOT USE THEM. The rubber inner will be kinked and stressed. In all likelihood they will eventually split and fail and fine mist leak out through the braid.
I was told that you could put a flexi tail straight onto an isolation valve, or a compression fitting (by a ex British gas engineer), but they are quite sharp at the end. The tap tail adaptors are completely flat, so will seal better against the rubber washer. I've connected them to the isolation valves in the past, but the adaptors are much better. Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman Ahh that makes sense. I do always check to make sure the edges are smooth and add a fibre washer in with the rubber washer too. Seems work out well.
It's better to use an adaptor, as they are flat on the end, unlike the isolation valves, which are much sharper. Years ago, a British Gas engineer told me to use either an isolation valve or a compression connector, but the flexi tap tail adaptors are much better. Thanks for the comment 👍
One day plumbers might catch up with the rest of the engineering world. And give those multigrip pliers the arse for most jobs. Seen more damage done by plumber butchers with those than a first year apprentice. Used to fit hot water tanks. Could do it twice as fast with proper 1/2 inch drive sockets and spanners than the plumber next to me. And not stuff up the fittings....
