@@RicardoSantos-dm4cj - For the lighter folks, do NOT stand on the bar. That can get you injured if the bar slips off, if you slip off, or if the nut moves (as you hope) and you then lose your footing. The bar can hit you in each of these scenarios, with the latter two involving your full body weight against a hard object.
It’s awesome seeing such an old video from you, Chris. You’ve made so much progress over the years and yet your early videos are still great. Keep up the awesome work.
I love it that you do your stuff in the driveway like a average joe. It'd probably take me a week to do this... but it's nice to know it can be done in a driveway.
Thanks a lot! I try to make it interesting, to the point yet informative. I have an audience of people who have never changed their oil to expert mechanics so it is a tough balance! Hopefully it helps everyone!
Hey Chris, love the channel and just want you to know how much of a difference you really do make on people's lives. Thank you sir and keep up the great work 👍
leave it to chris. after approximately 6 hours of research on replacing half of my front end on my car, over the course of the last 4 days, i find exactly all of what i’m looking for, in a 12 minute video. perfectly explained and extremely helpful, even after 9 years.
Only two RU-vid mechanics I ever listen to is ericthecarguy and ChrisFix. I don't pay attention to many others!! That's for the last 5 years of my mechanical hobbying
hay buddy, great job keep them coming. just one tip I learned I'd like to pass to you, the tie rod, flip the castle nut and leave it flush to tap out the tie rod end, that way if you have to tap it kinda hard you don't damage the threading. I use that as much as possible now because I have had problems before. thank you so much for your videos, they help plenty, bad are easy to understand even for beginners.
Great videos Chris. A super simple tip for replacing bearings that a friend passed on to me: Heat expands, and cold contracts. If you put your bearings in the fridge the night before, and use a torch, heat gun, or even just leave your receiving part out in the sun, the replacement bearing will drop right in with no trouble. Doesnt help get the old one out, but good time savings on the reassembly. Hope this helps. Keep up the good work.
Good video. If I may, one strong reminder. Always, when putting on a brake caliper after removal, be sure to carefully pump the brake pedal BEFORE moving the vehicle out of Park. This is a VERY common absent minded mistake numerous people have made. They get in the car, put it in gear (either direction) and first thing you know, NO BRAKES! The pedal has to be repumped up to reposition the fluid pressure in the lines. Also, there is always a lot of talk about those of us in the rust belt. To be sure, the running joke is that every ten minute job is guaranteed to take 4 hours. We laugh, but its true. Personally, I use a spray, Knock-R-Loose by K &W. It goes after rust, yet will NOT attack plastic, rubber, paint or much else like some sprays do; (PB Blaster). (Strictly personal preference.) Very rarely has it not worked. Amazing. No, I dont sell the stuff. Rust is always going to be a bear to fight against, so when watching these videos, adjust the thinking to adapt to the fight. Broken or frozen bolts, rounded bolts and drill bits are OUR arsenal tool box bullets. Chris does good in the presentations. They're simple, effective and polite. No bad (and unnecessary) vulgar language. Definitely a plus. Lead on, Chris. Im sure people breathe easier because of your calm, polite and respectful instruction. Thanks for being here.
I'm not officially car mechanic but I know professionally about cars and how to repair them for more than 40 years, simply it happened to me when I finish front brake pad on my car and simply forgot to prime the main brake cylinder before driving, so I lost control with no brake at all, barely manage to avoid entering the house from my backyard large patio door, I never forget, my car landed by its belly at 3 step high concrete barrier with almost half the car body on the air, I was so lucky, not even minor damage to the car or house.
Odd, I've never had a problem with that. Maybe you don't know how to drive a car? On every car you're supposed to put your foot on the brake when putting it into gear, at which point you should have noticed if the pedal sank quickly to the floor indicating no pressure buildup.
Wow, as an experienced videographer, I must say you're not only handy with mechanics, but you did a great job with the camera work and editing! Camera was well focused and steady (rather refreshing, compared to many other RU-vid mechanics). Well done. :)
baileywhanau Thank you! I work hard to get the camera angles right, keep the camera steady, and just provide overall good video quality! Glad you enjoyed the video!
Try having the nut inside of your subframe brake from the weld, so it's either you cut out the subframe to replace a control arm that has snapped, or you don't have a car to drive.
The hardest part is getting the two C clips out. if you got a press & all the other right tools & skills. it's not to bad of a job. i doing some right now...LOL. & the C clips R giving a really hard time. lol. don't have three hands.
Nate White he left out the step where your pliers slip off the clip and it goes flying followed by a string of expletives. this is usually repeated 2 or 3 times
you can use a pair of special C clip snap on plier's with a flat head screw driver & a hammer to break them loose & get them compressed & out of the slot. & get them out. on my 1995 Acura integra GSR special edition . & i spray & soak some PB blaster on the C Clips which is what i use to get those off once you get them out which is the hardest part. putting them back in is easy with the Special C lip plier's cause there not rusted & froze in place.
hola cris hermano desde n de s Colombia gracias por compartir tus conocimientos. yo grabo tus videos y los veo en mi celular... gracias. Aunque no hablo ni leo inglés. entiendo perfectamente lo tu haces...excelente
Thanks for the vid! definitely helped me out with mine. I actually destroyed my first wheel bearing when i tried pressing the hub into the bearing by not placing the press plate against the races of the bearing, but instead on the knuckle, thus ruining it. But my 2nd attempt went much better after watching your video.
You did a very pro job on the bearing change..If any of you noticed he cleaned the rust off all mating surfaces and threads because that's the way it was assembled at the factory no rust, no dirt, very good !
ChrisFix this was my first video I saw of you. I wanted to see how to clean my longboard bearings and your video came up, and now you've helped me with my car's
3:56 never tap on the threads of the tie rod with a hammer, you'll mushroom the them. rap on the steering knuckle instead. also, I would put anti-seize on the splines on the cv shaft. otherwise good work, bravo!
Ide say never tap any thread with a metal hammer , maybe a wood hammer only or a soft soft metal hammer, maybe rubber mallet. I've ruined threads via metal hammer mallet
I'm 70 years old and you've got my respect I've worked on corvettes I've pulled engines out of transmissions but these newer cars nowadays are something else and I read some of the comments and it said that this is an older video, Kudos to you my young friend, You're a hell of a mechanic and it doesn't seem like you're afraid to tackle anything, Keep up the good work I've watched a lot of your videos, They are very informative, Bless you young man. I was A fair 2 middle and shade tree mechanic, You make Miss the old days. Peace🖖✌
i cant honestly say this video not only helped me but also inspired me to do this job myself. was difficult and i broke a socket wrench but I'm glad i did it myself. thank you Chris, couldn't have done it without you
really great tutorial, thanks bro. i was thinking of doing a 4 lug to 5 lug conversion on my car, and this is very enlightening towards accomplishing that.
Well nice vid concise and informative. Those roundy things with the hole in the middle are nuts not bolts. The c ring things are snap rings. The use of the pipe wrench is questionable, but works. You had the air impact you could have used that. Pretty back yard, but you did it right and showing that it doesn't need a big shop is great, most do it yourselfers don't have big shops and sometimes not even a concrete slab so thanks for showing how to. Lastly you should always shove the tire assembly under the car for safety, besides jack stands. And mentioning those installation tools are usually available for rent at a good parts store usually for a deposit equal to the cost of the tool, you'll get the deposit back when you take the tool back. BUT before you take the tool, open up the box right there at their counter and do a close inspection of the tools to make sure nothing's busted, if it is make sure it's noted by the staff before you leave the store otherwise you could end up paying for something you didn't even break. Probably too late for all this info as I see some of these comments are wayyy old, oh well, going to leave them anyway 😊
Great job with the video instructions. I just want to point out that with that type of lower ball joint you need to line up the groove in its pin with the hole for the bolt so the bolt can pass through. When pressing the hub back into the bearing the rear plate needs to press against the center of the bearing so it doesn't separate the center sleeve. If the plate is only against the rear of the knuckle the hub will push the inner bearing sleeves apart. I learned this the hard way on my first attempt at this. :( I would also like to add that we should never pull on the cv shaft once it is out as this will dislodge the cv joint and may need to open the boot to get it back together. I know you knew what you were doing, but for the first timers, it may be missed.
hey Chris, keep up the good work. I really appreciate all your videos. I recently started working on my own car thanks to how easy you make the job look. Im now servicing my car on my own. thanks again.
Thanks for the video man. Seems that in every forum 9/10 guys will say "mind as well change the whole hub you're not savingmuch money etc" for whatever reason. Fact is, wheel bearings are CHEAP compared to the whole hub. It will be a couple hundred dollars saved for me doing it this way. People make this repair seem so daunting but you've shown us that with the right tools it is simple enough for us driveway mechanics to do. Thanks!
Chris 3wheel bearing later I’m done! Thought I save a buck and get the$36 bearings, wrong choice, they failed immediately! Purchased $70 bearing and I’m like Willie Nelson, On the road again! You da man Chris!
I made the mistake of going to Pep Boys to have them replace a bad wheel bearing on a 98 Toyota Corolla. I had assumed up to this point that a hydraulic press was required to do the task, but I don't have one. This video and Harbor Freight Tools has shown me that I could have saved some money and done it myself. Additionally, for what Harbor Freight charges for 12 ton presses, I could have bought one and still saved money. Funny thing though, Pep Boys did a terrible job of it, and now I have a brand new bad wheel bearing again. I will buy a new bearing and replace it myself. Forget Pep Boys.
Notofsoundmind - The bearing on that vehicle was relatively easy to remove. Some are corroded in and even a 12 ton press may not get it out, or might work if you apply a torch to heat the knuckle. Sometimes you even have to destroy the whole bearing and saw and pry out one piece at a time.
Stinky Cheese I haven’t really had to cut that many but yes up north especially they can get stuck like chuck. If they’re THAT bad just take the knuckle to a machinist.
Meh once you start involving a machinist you might be as well off to check pricing on new and junkyard parts. If the price isn't that high you might as well attack it yourself then if you screw it up, then you KNOW you're going to replace it.
Stinky Cheese Stinky Cheese the most I’ve ever paid at a machinist is 100$ to remove hub and bearings from the knuckle and press new bearing and hub back in on two knuckles but I guess that could vary place to place. Most of them come out just fine though so it’s worth a try yourself especially if you have an impact and the time.
@I Identify As Black wow. first of all, its nice you identify as black. im going to guess is socket identifies as a ratchet and his nut identifies as a bolt. secondly, yes, i can see what he is using. i was stating the obvious whyyyyyy? to get dumb shits like yourself to say something at me which you stating your comment says you couldnt tell the difference in anything either
he also calls the snap ring a C-clamp lol but oh well, we should all know I suppose. he almost had it. C-clip would have been right even, they have many names, just not C-clamp since that is a tool.
Hi your stuff is awesome+ your accent and voice flow are easy to understand even for people who learned english in 2nd language + you got the luck to get a good tone too lol not hard listen up 15-30 mins of your videos not for nothing you reached 5.75Millions followers Keep it up you are a pro 👋🥳
I bought a kit similar to this one at Harbor Freight and it pretty much works the same way but while using an air ratchet. You don't even have to take the knuckle off of the car anymore! you have to remove the CV shaft after disconnecting the lower ball joint and maybe tie rod to move the knuckle enough to get the CV shaft out of the knuckle. Take the air tool along with all of those adapters put into a specific place instructed by the instructions manual, it both removes bearings and installs them from either side of the knuckle depending on whatever is easier for your situation and also installs the hub
3:57 Says the same guy in a video he made on how to replace the outer tie rod to NEVER hit the knuckle or tie rod ball joint bolt with a hammer to remove it and to use the proper tool ....
ALWAYS leave the nut on the steering joint thread and unscrewed till the nut face is level with the end of the thread. [Reverse nut so castellations are temporarily at the top]. THEN hit the combined thread/nut with a copper or alloy-faced hammer. Lastly, never re-use a split pin especially when it is as mangled as this one!
This is a really good video. I would like to add that once the axle is removed from the hub after disconnect the lower ball joint and Tie rod end, you can just re-connect the knuckle to the lower ball joint and do all the pressing with the special tool. This helps hold the knuckle assembly while doing all the press work.
Shouldn't you have made the point of pressing the new hub into the bearing only pulling/pressing by the inner race? Similar to putting the bearing into knuckle only by outer race..?
before watching your vidz i couldnt be bothered learning about how to maintain my car. then after watching a few clips i realized general upkeep on my vehicle is something i can do in my spare time. youve also saved me about 3k so far. thanks Chrisfix...absolute legend dude!!!
Hi watched your video, you made two mistakes one you don't hit the end of the thread on a ball joint if you are going to reuse you hit the casing where the joint fits in too, secondly you never reuse a cotter pin/split pin you must always replace with a new one.
First...into is one word.... 2nd the end of the ball joint is tapered so the threads would not get damaged... see 3:44.... and last there is nothing wrong with reusing the cotter pin as long as it's not broken
metal fatigue. Get a selection of cotter pins at Haabaa Frayt for 4 bucks, and always use new, if possible. They crack and fall off w/o warning if reused.
Meh, if you've working with this kind of thing before then you can tell by the corrosion and amount of fatigue in the cotter pin whether it's sound to reuse or not. In other words it is false that reusing a cotter pin is always bad. You just need to know when one is shot and when one isn't. Granted if I already have some then I'd put a new one in, but I wouldn't stop a repair and make a separate trip to the store if I had none and the existing one looked okay.
God all of this for a wheel bearing.. I already know I'll mess something up if I can manage to break a guide pin bolt in a simple break job. I will likely leave this to a mechanic if this is the best way to replace one
All the instructions were great up until the last part where he shows you how to press the Hub into the bearing. Unfortunately if you do with the way he says on my vehicle it will actually end up popping half of the bearing out and destroying it. Lame
There must be some kind of different/special process for your vehicle as this is how it would be done on any kind of press in wheel bearing like this, I would get vehicle specific instructions and see if there is something else you need or possibly some special tool
It definitely makes the job easier but it's not always required, if you can't get it out no matter what you can bring it to a shop and they can press it out for you for a small charge
Question Chris ,I have a 1998 Toyota Camry that more likely has a bad wheel bearing, and I have another 1998 Toyota Camry that I had to retire because of an accident but the front wheel hub is perfectly fine, so my question can I just remove the whole wheel hub assembly from one car and put it on the other.?
Well done Chris, good job. I do have a problem with my front bearing, I will be grateful if you could help me figure out its problem. I was having a problem with my front bearing, they were torn and have a scratching sound coming out of them especially the left one. I do have Skoda Rapid 2015, I changed its front bearing set for the 2 front wheels and they were not just a bearing, it is a one set contains a flange along and welded to the bearing as one whole set that is compressed to the armhole. after changing them the scratching sound is gone and the car ran smoothly. I do have an ABS sensor error alarm, this alarm is continuous just after changing them. and when getting back to the mechanic, he removed the one with the sensor error and compressed a new one again and still I have the error. What shall be the real solution to this problem from your point of experience ?!!!!
I would see if the connection is corroded and clean it up, that should make the light go away if you replaced the hub! If that doesn't work then the pump or unit might be on its way out and that will require replacement.
@@chrisfix I did every thing, resetted the error code from controller and compressed a new one and all of that didn't resolve any thing...!!! same error keep glowing every time you start the car, it may go away and come back again, but finally i have it sticking ahead. What pump do you mean i have to change?!!
You have helped me save THOUSANDS of dollars reason I say this is because my steering knuckle is screwed up when my bearings go in so every 4000 miles my bearings go out and I have to replace them I replace my CV axle I replaced my tie rod inner and outer I've replaced my suspension I've replaced everything and the only part I cannot find for my car is the steering knuckle so that's what it has to be so every 4000 miles I'm stuck replacing my bearings you have helped me save thousands of dollars with the same kit that you use I'll used to you be paying $200 per time to do it
"FINALLY" . Hahahahaha!! I'll bet there was a bit of editting happening right there. We saw 2 turns & it was out! Lol. I just spent the whole day removing my 20 year old hyundai wheelbearings. Admittedly, i was in no hurry. I bought a brand new pullerr kit & had to modify it, & my neighbour will have to remount his vice!!!! Hahahhahaha!! To any who are curious "YES i have a beer in my hand" lmho till tomrrow. when i Install the new ones which are sleeping in the freezer tonight.
