This guy right here is the man. I drove 12 hours from NJ for him to bless my car with his experience and quality of work. Finally I got rid of the 2AR rattle at start up along with a new chain. Would definitely do it again. Thanks again AMD for the quality work done in a timely reasonably priced manner.
Yeah west coast myself so out of luck. But honestly if I quit being lazy I could do this particular job easily. I have a press, just missing the fancy gauge. I even have a lathe so I can make perfect fit bushings or push blocks for the press. I just don't have a shop with a lift.
@@ONeal397 definitely worth the ride…I stayed in Lombard which is 15 minutes away from his shop. Your close enough to stuff but don’t have the mayhem the comes along with Chicago
I have done this on a Mitsubishi as a DIY project. I just had to pay a shop to press the bearings in and out, saved over three quarters of the cost for my daughter. Great to save the money, and even better to know what you can't do yourself, which I've learnt by making many mistakes over 55 years. Young DIY guys today are so lucky to have these great videos.
Great work, customer should of paid the extra $ and just get the rotors done, literally had everything apart. It might be worth it for me to drive the 4 hours to get this guy to do the work, what a pro.
Kind sir; I hear you talk of the Lord, you most always end your videos/ saying God bless you! I'm a Christian ( born again). We have a 2000 Toyota Sienna 6 cylinder. We love it! You helped me to know how to change out the wheel bearing. Thank you.and God bless you 🇺🇸✝️🙏😊👍🔧
Thanks for that information. I needed that video a month ago when I replaced it on my RX. If you don't have access to a press, rent a press tool from oreillys!
Watching the videos makes me feel like I've done every job. 1st gen highlander, pressed bearing in front the front, bolt ons in the back. Bolt on way preferred. Cheers!
I’ve been watching your channel for about 6 months now and it has been so helpful, I’ve been working at toyota for about 5 months now and last week i started T-TEN, watching your videos are really helpful for my job in general but also for school work, thank you really
Beautiful work. Having done this many decades ago, it was such a "what the hell is going on" and worry that I am doing the right thing. Best instructions I have seen on this ever.
and i do this job exactly like that. after 40 years, it's all easy. i'm in florida so it's really nice working on clean cars. no more rusty chicago cars for me.
May the Lord also bless you and keep you! I had to learn the hard way on pressing the hub into the bearing, back then I didn’t have much hydraulic press experience or a great how to video like this, thanks for passing on the knowledge! If you are a serious DIY’er a hydraulic press is a great tool to have. It has saved me thousands of dollars, last fall I rebuilt a John Deere tractor water pump for just over a hundred dollars instead of buying a new pump for nearly a thousand.
Mr Nut? Great videos many thanks. Calm and informative without any drivel. I came across your channel via the Cressida engine as I'm buying a 94 Toyota Crown Royal 3.0 today. The engine issue sent me searching to eliminate it from my proposed purchase. Im an early retired Brit, whos run the XJ40s and X300, (6cyl)Jags and Volvo 960s when in England. Now living in Vn, the Toyota is the next best thing here, and still 12-15k dollars for an oldie, because the new car taxes trickle down to the used car pricing. So thanks for your vids!
I just had to replace my head gasket 09 Corolla 253,000 miles and I took his advice to heart when he said that the OEM guides and chain could last forever if the paint marks was still visible, mine was amazing so I reused em. (Had to get aftermarket head gasket 😕) but it wasn't a hard job just a little time consuming
Gotta love Toyota timing chains. Mine only has 135k, but the timing chain is still 100% tight with absolutely no slack. Can't say that about my Fords or Hyundais.....
such a great explanation of this process. I have been struggling to find videos covering how to fix my 2013 avalon and couldn't find anything. This is a GREAT tutorial. This is by far the best mechanic / teacher on youtube. Fantastic videos.
@@daveeddy2402 the one that looks like a c clamp but got from oreillys he didn’t wait for me and used wrong size plate and pushed the guts out on the bearing hub I was pretty pissed off and had to go buy another bearing hub assembly.
I did the rear wheel bearings on my Lc100. Successful, but not for the faint of heart. I would’ve loved to have had a video of this quality to help me along.
You should mention that many cars have the ABS sensor tone ring integrated into one side of the wheel bearing and it absolutely matters which direction it’s pressed in. Sucks to see that ABS light pop up at the beginning of the road test when it’s fitted backwards.
Usually dont comment, but i just did this job on my 2010 camry lol. Pretty easy. I know you will cringe at this, but i scratched the strut to mark its location before taking it off and skipped the alignment. It worked great, car drives straight as an arrow with just a tiny bit of tow in. If i had an alignment rack i would definitely do an alignment afterwards.
What a Great video and explanation. I now have a better understanding of the process of changing a wheel bearing and a greater appreciation for my mechanic and the work that he does. Keep up the good work, A+ or Gold star, whichever you prefer. However no one replied to my question on which was posted on the Transmission change oil video a few months ago.
Love your videos! Have you considered doing a review on the newly announced 2024 Land Cruiser? It's generating a lot of buzz, and I'm sure your insights would be invaluable. Looking forward to hearing your take on this new car!
I have an OTC kit that allows me to keep the knuckle on the car. Although there are some you’ll still have to use a press because they’re soooo stuck.. but if I can use that hub grappler kit, I absolutely will! It is a 10/10 product! (IF you use the Eric O modifications)
With the OTC 6537 Hub Tamer Elite, I believe you really needed Eric's mod, the thrust bearing. However, with advent of the OTC 6575 Hub Grappler and its conical washers (523410), I no longer believe Eric's mod is necessary. Liberally apply Permatex 81950 Ultra Slick Engine Assembly Lube to the forcing screw and forcing screw nut along with the conical washers. The lubricant is like no other.
“...soooo stuck”? Wouldn’t the results of a press depend on the performance of the impact wrench? For example, although I have a Milwaukee 2962-20 mid-torque, I would never consider using it for pressing a GEN1 wheel bearings, preferring my Milwaukee 2767-20 high-torque for such a challenging task. And of course, the condition of the forcing screw (555656), forcing screw nut (311881) and conical washers (523410) matter. Also, the quality and quantity of the lubricant used on the aforementioned parts matter as well.
Excellent work, as usual. A pleasure to watch. 1. The "pop" of the press is due to elasticity/lack of stiffness in the frame. It does not happen on a cast frame. Tighten all the screws of the frame. Should help. 2. Not all bearings are reversible. Some have the ABS magnetic ring on one of the faces and need to be installed accordingly. 3. I notice you do not grease the driveshaft splines. I wonder why ???? 4. If part of the knuckle bends you should probably install a new or a 2nd hand hand good knuckle. The knuckles are cast steel, supposedly. I had to do light machining a few times and the swarf behaved very much like cast iron....... I also had them CRACKING when attempting to remove a very difficult bearing and were resting on the caliper - Renault cars. 5. I give a LIGHT swipe with 800 grit on surfaces once the bearing has been removed to wipe off fretting corrosion. You'll have to do this for at least an hour ( by hand ) to remove 10 microns. 6. A possible reason for the previous new bearing failing so quickly is that when pressed it did not "take" straight immediately. That causes the knuckle housing to distort. If one measures with a good bore gauge, one finds A LOT of knuckles out of round. Bearings don't like that and heat transfer from the bearing to the metak surrounding it is impaired. 7. It is recommended when installing expensive, industrial bearings, to ALWAYS very lightly oil the surfaces with a light oil. 2 stroke synthetic works best in my experience.
@@fahhad17 To some extent, true. Especially machine tools. For wheel bearings sharing one outer the preload is established when the inner ring faces touch i.e. very accurate machining from the factory. Unless you torque the axle nut to some horrible figure like 400Nm or more, the inner rings won't distort and the preload won't be affected. You could torque the axle nut quite a bit less than the usual 250-300Nm but a higher figure makes dead sure the hub has been pulled though the bearing, fully - while the inside inner race is held by the driveshaft. The idea is to avoid any displacement of the inside inner race as it'll wreck the seal.
Great instructional video so smooth on the install. I wish we knew the number of wheel bearing we have installed on Toyota products. A good thing to think about some Scion xD xA I think have the reluctor for ABS made on the bearing seal surface.
To me this is very DIY. Of course I have done nearly everything on a car or truck over the years. I would get a bearing press kit and fly into it. Many times bolt-in bearings can be rough due to rust. BTW I've never used a torque wrench on lugs and never warped a rotor. I'm talking a lifetime. Nearing 70.
I've replaced all 4 wheel bearings or the exactly same Siennas DIY. First time in my life. Rear ones according to your old video, all the tips you've given long time ago was really handy. The front ones.... well, either I didn't find the video from you, or you didn't have it... Damn! And that is one important thing you told today. And that is the one. 14:41 I wish you had this video long before. And the first one i was pressing the hub back inside agains the round flat surface laying on the stop-ring (exactly how a lot of people show on the internet, and only some thinking made me to add little linings as thick as the stop-ring to stop the center of the bearing to press out against the external race of bearing, which made things better, but not 100% great). As you may guess, that first bearing was a little bit damaged (it's working, no noise while driving, but when I rotate the wheel, I can feel by hand on the springs a little rattle. Not by ears). The second one I already analyzed my mistakes and pressed it against the surface that contacts only internal race, which made things great (it's rotating at clear as I can't feel exacly nothing). So, exactly the same person, same process, but totally different final result because of the one little detail. Why I haven't thought about it myself when doing the first one? Well... I'm DIY my own car first time in my life because of affordability reasons, and at the moment I was doing the first one, even brake pads and caliper I was removing with some youtube video being right next to me, so you can imagine my level of knowledge. Too much of thoughts were interfeering clear thinking in my had at that moment, so even some linings added when pressing the hub back was a really good job for me. PS: Hoping that the author would read it and give me some hints about the front strut. So. when I was working on my front bearings, I jack up only the one side of my car. So when I removed the tie rod, the shock started to rotate to the left or to the right with a lof of force, but didn't want to stay centered (like here 17:47, your strut stays calm in centered position, mine... nah... rotated to the left of to the right, but didn't want to stay in centered positions). I guess, that is because of the sway bar link still connected to the strut, but why your is calm. Is it ok? Is it because on your video both sides weren't jacked up?
I believe the best way to avoid DIY mistakes is to view a number of tutorials on a particular job, a few dozen if necessary. I copy their titles, URLs, and make notes into Notepad, an Outlook draft email, or Word document. I also read through the comments because viewers occasionally bring up valuable questions, insight, or references to other videos. For example, I must have viewed over five dozen videos on removing a Toyota passenger-side CV axle from the clutches of the infamous carrier bearing bracket before I came across this gem, a mechanic who employed a Blue-Point air hammer, a model AT2050, with a 180mm smoothing hammer bit, pulverizing the rust into dust, walking out the CV axle carrier bearing from the bracket in less than thirty seconds. He placed the tool at various locations on the bottom of the bearing carrier, and with six burst of the air hammer, twenty-two seconds later, the task was complete. It was a one of a kind video. (View ”how to replace passenger side cv axle Toyota sienna 2015” on the “automotive tech-vet”-channel.)
The deal I arranged with my sister was the full cost of parts, 20-percent cost of any new tools, and free labor. Having done her brakes, Cv axles, transmission output shaft seals, and wheel bearings, I brought a lot of cool new tools. Literally thousands of dollars, but she still made out like a bandit. If all that work were done at a shop, I believe the repairs would have easily totaled her 2005 Sienna XLE. She has never maintained her vehicles very well, so I would rank her minivan on the low end of the Kelly Blue Book if you know what I mean.
Kind of surprised you didn't show torquing the axle nut. I believe you mentioned it? There are some clueless people who watch these videos and think "he just spun it on with his fingers and staked it". I had my clutch replaced one time on a VW Turbo Diesel FWD, quite some time later i heard a noise, thought it was a wheel bearing going. I even bought a bearing planning to do it on a weekend and discovered the axle nut had come loose. Loctite, torqued it, and drove thousands of miles after that. Self-locking nut, VW dealer an hour away, and nobody had one locally so....
thank you sir . I have trained you to do what is necessary in the axis. Unfortunately, last night, one of the technicians destroyed the axle of my car. Unfortunately, he is a liar and does not understand anything.
I've DIYd a couple of these. I ground that race similarly but used the Mark I hammer and chisel to bust it off. Thank you for demonstrating the air hammer! Don't know why I didn't think to try that. I have an inner tie rod with a bit of wiggle at 9&3 on the wheel. It's a 2003 Corolla with 260K miles. Should I just replace both inners and the outers at once with the understanding that an alignment is required any time those parts are replaced? I remember you saying those tie rods don't go unless it's 20 years old. Indeed it is. It's a well maintained Corolla so a half million miles or bust. All the tips are much appreciated.
I remove inner races from hubs but more like a surgeon than a butcher, using a “Dremel EZ456B 1-1/2-Inch EZ Lock Rotary Tool Cut-Off Wheel” and a “Dremel 8220-2/28 12-Volt Max Cordless Rotary Tool Kit,” leaving no marks on the hub. That stated, I do use MAPP and a ball peen hammer and chisel for the final push. I believe it is too easy to screw it up with larger wheels. Indeed, I removed one inner race without a mark only to find a meth mechanic had gouged the heck out of the hub in a previous bearing replacement, forcing me to discard the hub for a new one.
This channel is “ amazing “ I have a 2007 Toyota Corolla and this guy saved me $$$ in general. I’m currently looking at newer Rav 4’s and he has a video on what to avoid and that even saves me more future money. Your awesome bud!
I did this on an '05 Sienna about 10 years ago. I went to a self-service auto repair shop but had trouble removing the race. Ended up paying the shop about $100 to help me grind the race off & press the new bearing in.
Brake pressure pushes outward perpendicular to the length from the inside, hanging stretches it lengthwise and the hose is not designed to stretch in that direction. Love the channel but more actual diag and repair is best for me Brother, cheers.
Ahmed, please consider doing a critical review of the OTC 6575 Hub Grappler kit, informing us which parts tend to break and how. Because of all the positive reviews, a few months ago, I purchased the kit to replace the front wheel bearings on a 2005 Toyota Sienna XLE (FWD). Overall I am pleased with the results but I would offer those considering the kit some precautions. First, there were three reasons why I purchased the kit: (1) The grappler can easily remove a hub without futzing around with a slide-hammer; (2) the bearing could be replaced without unfastening the strut bolts, avoiding a wheel alignment; and (3) I already had a Milwaukee 2767-20 high-torque impact wrench. After replacing the first wheel bearing, the biggest lesson I learned is to setup the forcing-screw, nut, and adapters by hand and hand-tools, never an impact wrench. It is critical to get the alignment correct before pressing or you can mar adapters and/or bend the forcing-screw. That stated, the process of pressing-out a bearing, properly, will straighten out the forcing screw again. Always place the threaded side of the nut at the far end if possible, engaging the full length of the forcing screw in the process, limiting binding. From those commenting on reviews of the product, I chose to liberally use “Permatex 81950 Ultra Slick Engine Assembly Lube” on all the critical parts of the kit: conical-washers, forcing-screw threads, and nut threads; the Permatex worked well. On product reviews, some have stated that they have worn-out forcing screws but they never stated how many cycles one can expect a screw to last. Lastly, I would not consider using my Milwaukee 2962-20 mid-torque impact wrench for pressing, believing it to be underpowered for the job.
“Just had it replaced?!” Familiar territory. My 2011 Corolla front wheel bearings kept failing months apart. The shop had to keep replacing under warranty. Originally I asked for OEM but they assured me their warranty made that unnecessary. After the first failure they claimed they already switched to better/premium bearings. The next time they said they were using “OEM-quality” bearings. This cycle might’ve continued but the car’s life was cut short by an EF4 tornado. In the mean time I also had to replace the bearings on a Tacoma I only had for months. Both were expensive. I would’ve loved to do them myself but was discouraged when I saw what was involved since I didn’t have a shop, press, air hammer, etc. Thanks for the video!
Was a Toyota Master Tech with 28 years at the same dealer. If you would take a minute to show how small of a score in the race can make a bearing sing. Ty
Some bearings will have an orientation. Honda in particular uses bearings with polarity. On these bearings improper installation will cause the ABS light to illuminate. The brown side of the bearing is a permanent magnet. The black side goes to the outside and the brown to the inside. Just FYI
It's a shame the video skipped you doing up the hub nut. It's a higher tq nut, often above the rating of common tq wrenches and sometimes requires an extra person to stand on the brakes to get it up to spec. I've also seen a few shafts break from over-tightening the nut. Do you just use the impact wrench, or something else?
Although many torque wrenches will do, I use a Precision Instruments 1/2" Drive Micrometer Click Wrench - M3R250FX for this particular task. As the product code implies, it ranges up to 250 lb-ft, well over the 217 lb-ft required for the drive axle nut. My procedure is to secure the nut to the axle with a few ugga duggas from an impact wrench, removing any slack between the CV axle and bearing. Then punch-out the center cap of the wheel and mount the wheel on the vehicle. Then lower the vehicle to the ground until the tire makes sufficient contact, applying the final torque value to the drive axle nut with the torque wrench. Finally, raise the vehicle again, remove the wheel and stake the nut with a Mayhew (22012) 3/16” punch and a 4-lb sledge hammer. On a related task, I use “Schley Products Toyota/Lexus Axle Nut Unlocking Tool (SLY-65420)” to unstake axle nuts; it is a special service tool (SST), a tool far better than any screwdriver or chisel, a tool I wish I had from the very beginning. If I do additional work of this type, I will consider upgrading to the "JTC-4158 Toyota Lexus drive axle nut installer and remover (2 PCS)" kit, a kit containing a staking tool as well.
this is nice and all but I'm about to do the RR on my 16 Tundra, videos that aren't on YT. Even though it might be the same method for the 07 up a higher quality video will be much appreciated THANK YOU!!!
@22:05 I would have Jose , your mechanic associate , camera man , and editor do the test drive . I think he's the man for the shakedown test drive given his experience with his GX460 ! (LOL)
U make it look so easy. A DIY guy would purchase the whole hub. I'd like to see you do THAT & on a rust belt car. 🤔 I saw u had torque stix for lug nuts. U dont have to torque the axle nut??? 👍
Look closely, the video was unfortunately, edited at that point. It is unfortunate because under-or over-torquing a bearing can result in premature failure. Accordingly, it was a critical point well worth focus.
what i do and the best way to do that job in my opinion is slide hammer the hub off while the knuckle is still on the car. And if you dont want to make even the slightest mark on the hub while removing the inner race you can do 1 of two ways , spin hub on a support of some sort while its upside down and heat the race and it will fall off , or 2 weld a bead on the race and then use an air hammer to drive it off. The heat from welding will expand it and the bead will give you something for the hammer to get behind. Everything else he shows is what i do.
Great video. Only thing I would recommmend is using slide hammer to pull HUB. what you have done is old school. Also the speed sensor on rust belt wont come that easy and same with snap ring.
