I am learning a lot as a materials science engineer with strong metallurgy background, I think this info gives me clues on designing efficient metal parts!
Thanks for the informative video. I like your way keeping air out of the lines negating the necessity to air bleed. Also reading the debate between you & Anthony H, can I just bleed the master every other time if the fluid changes happen frequent enough to keep fluid on the cleaner side?
Sure thing Alex. That's what I have been doing now, just every other time. But if it feels a bit spongy, then bleed it, as it can make a difference to how the lever feels. The master is actually really easy to bleed, and as Anthony pointed out there may be a small amount of dirt in there. Probably never going to hurt anything, but it can't hurt to bleed it. Just be careful when bleeding the master not to get fluid on the paint (and it will run down everywhere) If you do get it on the paint, give your bike a good wash after to make sure its clean (but wipe the obvious away quickly)
You are right my friend, its dam tight in there and I could not use a bleeder wrench!!!! I just used the box end of an open end wrench (I think it was a stubby wrench) , it is really tight and you have to turn the wheel to make sure a spoke is not in the way. Also you can't undo and fully tighten in one swing, you can loosen, use the tool, or get some to squeeze as you open and bleed, but then to fully tighten you almost do it with one action, so move as much as you can, then reposition the wrench for the final torque. Just don't over-tighten!!!
@@GarageKing an opinion, my gsxr k2 2002 750 the fan it's starting at 220f or 104C, thers any reason to make it start at 90C as car starts, some time in hot days it's so hot to be on motorcycle... When riding in the city.
@@DanielHalus Hey There, I don't think there is anyway for you to make the fan come on sooner. Mine comes on at about that temp (I know they run hot) The only way would be if you could custom tune it like a car, but I'm not sure if that's possible with the GSXR.
Yup that's what I did, just make sure the fluid does not sit there and you wipe it up right away. Sometimes I will put a tube on the end of the bleeder, like on the front when I was doing the suction bleeding, but I wanted to show all 3 methods. When I left the tube off it was easier to see the fluid coming out, so I had to sacrifice the bike for this video :)
Thanks for watching and good observation brother!!!! In my experience you don't have to, as long as there is no air in the system, because the clean fluid runs through the master cylinder (that's where you are pouring the fresh fluid) and then all the way out. So once you have clean fluid coming out of the brake caliper bleeder valves you know the fluid in the master cylinder is clean. NOW.......... If when you are bleeding the system you are not careful and suck out too much fluid, without putting new fluid in the master cylinder, then you will get air in the master cylinder and you will have to bleed it. So it is VERY IMPORTANT to keep topping up the master cylinder as you go so it does not get low!!!! Time stamp 7:19 shows the bleeder for the master cylinder. If you have let the master cylinder get low, then you have to bleed it. You can bleed it by: 1. Closing all the caliper bleed valves 2. Top up master cylinder 3. put cap on (it might squirt when you squeeze lever) 4. Squeeze lever 5. Open bleeder valve while you hold lever 5. Close bleeder valve, and then release lever 6. Repeat until you get a firm lever that does not feel spongy 7. Then you should do the wheels and make sure to keep topping up master cylinder as you go, or you will be bleeding the master again :) Hopefully I have helped you out, if you have any other questions just let me know and thanks for stopping by :)
@@GarageKing I used to work at a motorcycle dealership. I do own a motorcycle shop and I am still currently a mechanic. Very helpful info. But in the service manual it actually states to flush the master cylinder last after a fluid flush. There is a tiny bit of dirty fluid left in there. Is it going to hurt it if you don't do it? No. But since your already up there . I do mine Everytime I flush my brakes. It's just burned in my brain from doing it for so many years and having to replace 2008-2013 front brake master cylinders cause of recalls. Other than that. Great video. Have fun ride safe.
@@BeardedFordTech Thanks for the comment. I am actually a licensed GM mechanic, so an automotive mechanic, but as you can see I work on my bike:) I guess on cars its not an issue, but on the bike it is. Thanks for sharing this with me as I did not know. I do appreciate it :) I will update in the video description. Thanks man, you made my channel a little better today :) Take care as well and ride safe bro!!!!
@@GarageKing after I left the motorcycle dealer in 2013 opened my own shop and stayed until 2014. Hired 3 guys. Two techs and one to run the place. I started working at Ford and became master certified through them and ASE certified. Left in 2019 and been working on police cars and police motorcycles since. I still do go by the shop and help out and check on things like a boss should do. Thinking of selling that business to the guy running it. He wants it.
I hear ya.... I was trying something different with the vid, on the front I used the tube, but on the rear I wanted to show how the fluid came out faster when I undid the cap on the reservoir as that would not be possible if I hooked a tube up. Then when I was bleeding the rear I wanted to show the fluid coming out. I did make a comment about brake fluid being corrosive. So I sacrificed my bike for the video LOL ;) and GSXR is perfect today, it was wiped up right away and cleaned. Thanks for the comment and hope you are enjoying your weekend.
See the too at the 5:00min mark and after that. Thats how it should be done, no mess. Also the way the bike was leaning none went on the wheel, so no wheels were hurt in the making of this video.