One thing I recommend doing is clean your s-cam off! Any grease on it will cause rollers to slide and flat spot the s-cam. And while you’re in there check s-cam end play and bushing wear by pulling in/out and up down. And also check where the old ones were riding on the drum before removal. If they’re walking off the drum you may want to get a s-cam rebuild.
Great video brother. I like how easy you made it look. I try to fix everything I can on my trucks bcoz these shops charge an arm and a leg to do the work and the mark up all the parts.
An over-the-road driver friend had his own trucks and he would change his own flatbed trailer brake shoes and service his (oil-filled) hubs and hub seals all without unbolting the 8 dual (10-hole Budd wheel rims, with their tires..) from the hubs. He'd put a piece of clean 1/4" steel plate (of adequate dimension, and lightly greased on the top surface) underneath the duals. Adjust his jack so the tires/rims/hub/drum assembly was just sitting on the greased steel plate (no trailer weight). Drain the hubs and remove the spindle nuts and slide the whole deal straight off the spindle on the greased steel plate. Change out the shoes and whatever brake parts needed, check the oil seals and slide the whole thing back on. (of course, this only works assuming your bake drums are still okay and don't need changing....). Saves a good bit of time.
Only thing I would recommend is use some copper grease between your hub and drum and then again between wheel and drum, just makes it easier next time you come to change them, good job
That was EXTREMELY helpful. Thank you very much for an excellent video. And I agree with the others you made that look very easy, and I know that it usually is not that easy. You are good!
Good video, only one thing. No cribbing blocks under it? I'm a passenger car/lt truck mechanic. Regular vehicles I use jack stands, when I need to lift something heavy I use railroad ties that chainsawed into 2 foot sections.
It works well but you will need to take breaks and let air tank fill up several times. Aslo you must use 1/2 " hose from tank. Standard hose you buy that hook up to glad hands will not provide the air volume needed. I've been doing this for 20 years.
Great content. How often do you need to replace the break shoes? What would the average shop charge for this job? I've only worked on 4 wheelers and I hate drums, discs are so easy. Stay safe and profitable. 😃
Thank you John Beckman It's been a while since I've had someone else do my brakes, but I think they run anywhere between 750-950 for brakes and drums in the back, but I could be wrong. I think labor normally runs about $100 per axel plus parts. If someone knows otherwise please feel free to comment.
I always give them about a 1/4-1/2 turn after the lug hits the rim on the first round and then I come around and hit them for another half turn after that. You’ll need about 450-500 ft lbs of torque which a 1” should have plenty. I’ve been doing it for almost 15 years and never had a problem.
Good video,thanks. Do you buy new shoes every time or do you have your shoes re lined? If you can't find copper grease there is a great alternative in plastilube moly. It is a high performance synthetic grease that was specially formulated for brakes. Good blast down with the steam cleaner required to get all that shit off your suspension!
Thanks for watching Andrew, I buy new ones every time, only cause I don't know of a place that can reline them for me. Depending on the brand they can go as cheap as 35 dollars a wheel and as much as I've payed is about 70 dollars per wheel, but that's for better brakes. The cheaper ones seem to crack, squeak and wear out faster, but that's a matter of personal preference. Thanks for the recommendation on the copper grease and the plastilube, I'll be sure to ask for some the next time I'm at the parts store 👍🏼
Ya bro you need to remember them jack stands and scotch a tire or two. Better be safe than sorry. Im a tractor trailer mechanic of about 25 years. I'd also get the proper torque wrench and torque them nuts on steers and drive tires. 500 foot pounds
amer a3a2 I payed 175 for that impact back in 2011, I've done many brake jobs and tires with it. I agree 1" impacts can get expensive if you don't do your research, but if you shop around you can also save money on doing the brakes, tools and parts.
amer a3a2 you gotta look around i found mine from this old retired guy who was giving away all his tools i got mine for 85 back in 2014 and still works like a charm
Harbor Freight has several 1" impacts from $100 to $300. I run same off my truck air tank with 1/2 inch hose. Have saved 10s of thousands of dollars over the last 20 yrs. By doing my own brakes, changing tires and blow outs on the road. One road call to fix a blown tire is at least a thousand dollars.
For starters how about a jack stand and not trust a 50 cent o ring to support the truck. A pair of pliers to release the lock on that mertoir slack is just wrong go buy the correct tools. These videos are what give good journeyman techs a bad name U get what you pay for this is the fourth video I’ve watched tonight bored and let to see one done correct It’s just sad
