How To Change EVINRUDE 75hp Impeller (DETAILED VIDEO) 65hp, 70hp, 75hp 

Thank you! Appreciate it!

Thank you and i’m very glad this worked out! comments like this is why I do what I do!

Thank you! Glad it helped.

glad it helped! if your impeller looked okay and you have the lower unit off you should take a look up the water tube and see if there’s a blockage. if the impeller and water pump housing looked okay your issue may be a blockage somewhere in the head or a clogged pickup grate in the lower unit. anyways hope it works out for you and you get back out on the water!

Glad I could help!

Great video, do you have a video showing how you added the remote trim/tilt?

Many thanks!😊

Nice work! glad it all worked out!

Thanks for watching!

thank you, glad it helped!!

thank you!

thank you!

mine didn't want to pump up water with just the mufflers, picked it a part and redid so many times but then i read sometimes one need to submerge it in a barrel of water to get it primed and pumping, did that and now she's peeing like me after 6 beers!!

Glad this helped 😂

thank you! hope it helped

thank you, it gets easier every time you do it!

I’d imagine that’s the case alright. Getting the carbs put back in today. Looking forward to firing her up in the coming days thanks to your help 👍

thank you!!

​@buschfishin I got a 65ESL73R and I'm having issues with motor going into neutral or reverse... is there a way I can DM you privately and have you assist me with your knowledge?

Thank you! I’ll be sure to mention my new nickname in my next video 😂

Glad I could assist!

Thank you!

thanks grant i know you are

no problem, let me know how it goes or if you need any help!

they’re good runners just getting the shift shaft in is a pain 😂

@@buschfishin took me a while but I got it back in lol. Had to loosen all the lower unit bolts to drop it about an inch and then slowly crank them back tight as I jiggled the rod back into place.

thank you!

On my 75 70hp to get that shift linkage bolt out I in attach the fuel Pump and fold it and the hoses out of the way if my carbs are still on. But yes that built can be a pain and it’s costs almost $50 to order a new one. Again nice clean video.

yes, should be identical to this

when the shift rod came out did it look clean on the bottom or did you see a threaded part at the end? the shift rod should be threaded at the bottom and there is a certain height it needs to be. i’m wondering if you spun it at all while cleaning it and ended up unthreading it? if you had it out and didn’t notice any threads you will have to pull the gear case apart and get the broken off piece out and install a new shift rod. let me know if you have any more questions

@@buschfishin Thanks, I didn't notice threads, because I was a little freaked out. I'll see if it comes loose again if I spin it. Thanks a ton. Your videos on this motor have been so helpful.

@@buschfishin it ended up being threaded. I just could not see it last night. Got it installed, impeller replaced with a full kit and the entire lower unit cleaned out and ready to go back on. Thanks again!!!

awesome glad it worked out! just make sure it shifts properly and pumps good water when it’s re-installed!

it makes it easier to have someone help shove the lower unit up but it’s possible with a ratchet strap! thanks for the comment!

in this setup there’s an o-ring that goes below the cup that sits in the housing and an o-ring that goes on the face of the cup to seal to the plate. most likely it’s for different models, hope this helps!

i used only one key, i believe they are made for different drive shafts but with just one it held the impeller, it did have a little bit of slop but it works fine considering it only spins one way

I have the same problem. How do the plastic keys work when OEM is half moon key stock??

@@buschfishin One video shows a flat spot on the shaft. Mine doesn’t have that. You didn’t explain how you got it to work properly. Help please.

the height for the shift rod should be 21 and 23/32 from the mounting surface of the lower unit to the center hole of the shift rod IN NEUTRAL. from there you connect the shift lever up top and adjust the shift cable to fit it all in neutral.

if you google search brp to red plug adapter on google you’ll find a little adapter harness that connects the main red plug for the wiring in your motor to a little deutsch connecter. you will need that and then in that same search a few down you’ll see an amazon link to a newer brp control set. those will work together for you but you will have to swap the throttle and shift cable from the old one to the new controls. hope this helps!

@@buschfishin thank you, I really appreciate it, only thing is I don’t see the brp controller, only thing it is currently showing is the wiring harness Amazon sells.

Not a huge fan of mercury, had to do a fuel pump on a 4.3 MPI in a starcraft today... needless to say my colorful vocabulary expanded.

@@buschfishin after 10 years, just got rid of our Mercruiser. Never will touch one again. Drank gear oil like an alcoholic.

the two yellow wires do the exact same thing and carry the same voltage so no it does not matter which one they would go to, although i would still try and keep them the same way! hope this helps!

@buschfishin Hi again!! One more question!! I change the rectifier of evirude but nothing happen. . The battery doesn't charge. What alls I must have look?? Everything looks okkk!! Thanks my friend.. Take care 🙂

this motor runs off 50:1 premix, for example 10L of fuel should be mixed with 200mL of 2 stroke oil. you can always look up a chart online to find out how much to add after you fuel up, hope this helps!

This is a 1983 E75TRLCTE, not the same as mercury

This is a great comment, there is actually a measurement for how tall the shift rod should be, I know that i've put it in a comment on this video somewhere but I don't know off the top of my head right now. The reason it's threaded is because it needs to be at a correct height to shift properly. I believe its around 22 33/64 inches or something weird like that. The measurement should be from the mounting surface of the lower unit to the center of the hole at the top of the shift rod. Hope this helps!

@@buschfishin ok thanks so that should be about 22.5 I think

@@buschfishin all good 21 23/32 I’ll try convert that to mm

it doesn't have to be exact but they want it pretty close so that it gets in the "range" of where the shift lever needs to be. Hopefully this helped and you get it all put back together!

@@buschfishin thanks matey

top cylinder probably started running lean and wore down the ring!

On your motor you’re not going to have the shift rod to disconnect, on the port side of the motor on the exhaust cover there should be 2 wires with bullet connectors, you’ll have to disconnect those and tie a string to them so when you re-install the lower unit you don’t have to fish the wires back up. if i’m not mistaken that motor has electric shift so those wires are what tells the motor to shift to forward or reverse. the rest of the removal process should be the same, 6 bolts and it should drop out

24C is a marine grease, made by quicksilver it’s very good for pretty much anything on an outboard but i didn’t have any super lube o-ring lubricant which is a sticky goop that helps hold o-rings in place so i used the 24C

this whole kit came off amazon, i believe i linked it in the description but if not it’s a quick search away. pretty cheap as well.

0438602 is the OEM part number and the sierra part number is 18-3389

the actual solenoids are in the lower unit, you should see green and blue wires going from the powerhead down into the lower unit, you can check that they are getting the signal there and if they are then the solenoids are the problem. but to get to them you will have to remove the lower unit

In neutral, you need 12v to the "Green" wire. In reverse, you need 12v to both wires, the "Green" one and the "Blue" one. In forward, there should be no voltage to either wire. (The spring loaded shifter dog forces the unit into forward gear)

in reverse the shift rod would be up so it would be easier in reverse, i work on a lot of mercurys and merc outdrives at work so i’m accustomed to having it in forward 😂

I struggled with this with this kit, don’t know why it wasn’t a normal woodruff key but essentially I mated the two of them until it made a half moon