In general a good explanation of the job. I wish I had seen it before I did mine last autumn. I do have a couple of comments though. When I did mine I replaced the fork seals and dust seals as you did. I also replaced the seal retaining clips as they can sometimes get mangled when you remove them. I also replaced the copper washers on the cap screws at the bottom of the fork leg. The big thing though is the inner and outer bushings. I would never do fork seals without replacing these. As you said it's a big messy job and if these bushings are warn your seals won't last long and you will be replacing them again a lot sooner than you need to. If I remember correctly the cost of all the seals, clips, bushings etc. Was around a hundred bucks Canadian. The hardest part of the job for me was getting that cap screw out of the bottom of the fork leg...if I do it again I will try loosening it while the fork is still on the bike. I welcome your comments.
Good observation. The bushings sometimes do need to be replaced, and should be replaced if they are worn. I should have replaced mine, but they were ok. The teflon coating was good, but when the fork seals are out you are probably wise to replace it so you won't have to redo it again.
So awesome of you to take the time to do this instructional video for other people. I for one very much appreciate your time and skill This makes me feel confident that I can do the seals in my FJR, which I just bought. Thank you very much for this, my friend.
Great tips and comments section. I'm going to pass these on to my independent mechanic for my 2010 FJR fork seal and bushing replacement. 10/16/21 Update: After watching this video again, and a few Dave Moss Tuning videos, I am going to take this on since I just took the forks off to do a kerosene/fork oil flush and to give a Seal Mate tool a shot for a leaky seal. I already have the fork seal driver and seals on hand so thanks for the tutorial to properly fix the seal leak.
I just had mine done a couple days ago by my local shop. By looking at your video it a good thing I didn't try to do this myself. Looks pretty labor intensive. It cost me $400 use with parts. I think it's a reasonable price for what it's worth.
The video is very good. Very instructive. I allways thought that motorcycle mechanics was complicated but you proved me wrong. Removing the oil from the forks made a funny noise. Thanks a lot.
Great video, and only trying to help, Instead of moving the dampening rod adjuster up and down, you want to move the dampening rod itself. The piece that the adjusting rod goes in. Once you get all the air out of that, then move the cartridge up and down. Hope this helps.
браво . видеото беше много изчерпателно и показано точно това което трябва да се види . ще се ръководя по него и се надявам и моя резултат да е така добър .
Hey Oli, it should be very close to your bike. Conventional forks are very easy to do. Just take your time and label everything and remember the order they go in. But even if you get it wrong there is always a way to get it right. Thanks for watching.
One shop quoted me $300, other $350. And same situation I got it for so cheap I’d like to keep it my cheap beater bike lol. I don’t wanna spend a bunch at the machanic
I did the same job last summer, all went smoothly. I then completed the season with no issues and parked the bike for winter sleeping. New season is now, and after first ride I decided to re-tune the front end. First thing to do was to turn the preload out to minimum, to 6 visible lines. And I was very surprised as the preload stopped turning at 4.5 lines out. Oops... WTF? During the assembly I do remember I only finger tightened small nut over spacer tube, exactly like the manual says. Then installed the fork cup. Why do you think I don't have full adjustment rage on preload ?
Hey man. I’m confused. I don’t have a 19 mm Allen. I see that you used a fiveeights spark plug socket and I have one of those but how did you attach to the other end of the socket?. You said you have “another one “but I don’t see how that would help.
The sparkplug outer part i put a regular wrench int here i had. So put in the sparkplug into the axle bolt, then find a socket that fits the outer section of the sparkplug. I know i had the right tools somewhere, but i keep losing them.
I stuck a 3/8 extention in the plug socket from the other end and used a ratchet. I had to remove the rubber insert from the plug socket but it was a really old one and the insert was shot anyway.
Really stuck here. The 8mm bolt in the bottom where axle is just spins. Won't come out. Not sure what do. I've tried pushing down with an impact on it but can't get any resistance. Any ideas?
did you ever get the bolt out....mine is just spinning also ....not sure how to get it out ....I cannot even get it to tighten back up now....if you figured out a way let me know thanks
@@blanekellyyou need to have the fork inverted and compress the spring. this will put pressure on a gold nut on the cartridge hopefully allowing you to tighten/loosen the bolt
@@karlkrueger9941 thanks for the reply...I did invert the fork...and put a lot of pressure to compress the fork while it was inverted ....did not work....I was able to loosen and retighten but not get the bolt off...I finally just did not change the seal ...they were not leaking they were just old and i wanted to put new ones on...I just changed the fluid ....again thanks for the reply....
Motard Squid It is possible...you can buy the 18mm sight glasses online; They are supposed to be pressed in and the replacement comes with a new rubber seal, so I’ll try to press it in with a small clamp once its here
Funny enough, you are right. You can get them. In my new videos i fixed the sight glass with a 10cent coin and some epoxy on a 85 honda shadow. I never thought it would work. But the internet proved me wrong.
i've had that happen in another bike. Try putting pressure on the internals so you can thread it. It seems sometimes the internals don't sit right and the bolt wont catch the threads
You need a 24mm box spanner taped onto the end of a 1m section of 30mm plastic pipe, this holds the top while you tighten the bottom bolt. Use an impact gun to wrap it up quickly
