Excellent video !! There is a minor error the socket mentioned TORX M14 (does not exist) should read SPLINE M14 (this is the tool used in the video). Thank you.
Thank you for your feedback! We are glad to know you liked this video. Be sure to subscribe to our channel in order to see more useful videos coming out soon. Best regards, Autodoc!
The other side has a thicker driveshaft meaning the driveshaft must be removed to change the strut PLEASE DO THE VIDEO ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CAR SO EVERYBODY KNOWS
Thank you for your feedback! During the next shootings of new videos, we will take into account that there are some design differences between the sides of the replaced part and we will definitely clarify this. Stay tuned with us. Best Regards, Autodoc Team!
Nice vid. A lot of vids show that you also need to remove the whole thing to gain enough clearance to remove the strut... This deffo shouldnt automatically be done unless there REALLY isnt enough room.
Dont buy anschler... the bit of metal the m14 spline bolt goes through on the shock its self is welded too low. Ive had to cut the bottom of it off just to get the bolt through because it didnt go far enough down to clear the hole
The nearside is the easier side to do as the lower arm drops down far enough for the shock to lift out without compressing the springs or disconnecting the lower arm.
Thank you for your feedback. You are absolutely right, some points were missed, we have already corrected this in the new videos and now we are sure to use a torque wrench with all the tightening torques. Best regards,Autodoc!
I see you compress the springs again when fitting the new shock, What is the reason for this? What Torque do you set for the nut on the damper? What Torque for the other nuts?
Thank you for the feedback! All torque specs are indicated in the technical documentation on the vehicle maintenance, you can find them out at the official car dealer. Best regards, Autodoc.
