Did this on our Aygo a week or so back. Really surprising how much difference it has made to the feel of the box. Much nicer changes, and selecting reverse is also much easier.
I changed my gear oil about 18 months ago, drive shaft had to be removed. I used mineral oil to refill and the gearbox crunched badly. Changed to synthetic and it was OK. First time I'd witnessed oil type making such a difference.
What made me decide to change my C1's gearbox oil is that the gearstick was stiff and changing gears was a pain, especially when needing to downshift to 2nd and 1st gear. It wouldn't allow me to downshift to 1st gear, even if I were going around 5-10 km/h, unless I forced it (which caused slight grinding) or if I brought the car to a complete stop before gearing down to 1st. I was told by various people that the clutch needs to be replaced, but it was rather pricey, so I was hesitant. When I changed my C1's gearbox oil for the first time, I couldn't find the FE 75W GL-4 oil as recommend in the manual at any stores near me, so I settled for cheap mineral 75W-90 GL-4. Actually ran worse than the old oil at the beginning, but as I drove the car a bit more, then it felt slightly better than the old oil. Gear changing was a real pain when the engine was cold, be it in summer or winter, but in the heat of summer, it felt really good at times, much better than the old oil even. However, it still left much to be desired. I was still hesitant to do a clutch replacement, due to how pricey it is. I then decided to do some research and see if I could find an FE 75W gearbox oil, and I managed to locate one. It was Fuchs Titan Sintofluid FE 75W GL-4 gear oil. Not sure whether it's mineral, fully or semi-synthetic, as it doesn't state on the bottle. Fuchs claims that it improves fuel efficiency and makes gear changing easier (can't say much for the former, but the latter I can definitely attest to 💯). Fuchs also claims that it's "fill for life", meaning that it never needs to be replaced, but I wouldn't count on it. My advice would be to either change it when you need to replace your clutch, or change it when you feel that your gears won't change as smoothly as before. My clutch is high and seems quite worn, but the gears change as easily as ever and the difference is indeed noticeable. Gears don't change as smoothly while the engine is cold compared to when the engine is warm (which makes sense), but the feel is way more consistent compared to the cheap 75W-90 I used prior. I have no regrets changing the gearbox oil for the 2nd time (in quick succession) to the FE 75W oil. Makes a noticeable difference and my clutch is still going strong. Forgot to mention that going into reverse gear was the biggest pain before changing to the FE 75W oil. Used to feel rough and grind often and couldn't go into reverse straight away. Needed to use the workaround of going back into neutral, letting go of the clutch, pushing down the clutch again, then change to reverse, then it would finally engage (without forcing it). The FE 75W was defs an affordable solution. As stated above, my clutch is still going strong 💪
@@tippy6861mate thank you so much for this, just placed the order for the same Fuchs oil. Have been having issues progressing into winter where the first gear simply won’t go in and there were a few times I was simply stuck in a junction until a complete stop. At some point I read some other comments of a guy putting in Red Line oil (70W/75W both compatible, fully synthetic) into the box and did end up with a much better first with no crunch, but that stuff costs double, think £55 for 1.9L total? Not gonna put racing oil in that tiny gearbox…. Your comment made me place the order. Hopefully everything will turn out well. Thanks again
You prolly dont give a damn but does someone know of a way to get back into an Instagram account?? I stupidly forgot the account password. I appreciate any assistance you can give me.
Couldn't agree more. This was my reference video when I changed my C1's gearbox oil for the first time successfully. Not all gearbox oil bottles come with a built-in extendable straw mechanism that you can use to inject the oil into the gearbox whilst lying beneath the car, so this really helped. Top class, I'd say 💯
Great tips there on the gear oil change 🤔 I had no idea it had gearbox oil I thought it was mixed in with the Engine oil 😳 Nice nail varnish lovely colour its a real pain to get off 😂👌👍
I read the owners manual and it didn't give instructions on when I should change the gear oil. Where can I find that information please? I would really appreciate your help. Thank you
How much engine oil does your car use? think the Aygo we have does about half a pint in 4000 miles but i change the oil twice a year and bollocks to the once a year change toyota says
Done mine today, with help of your video so cheers👍 I just have one question, did your drain plug have a washer on ads mine didn't and the fill plug did 🤔
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos Understood, i saw the drain plug on your video but i thought if there was any steel residue attached (if the plug was magnetic), you had cleaned it earlier Thanks!
pushing your patience a bit here but the car is bleeping under acceleration, pretty sure that a new clutch is needed but just want to switch off the bleeping for now, any ideas mate
I don’t think you can just turn the beeping off, but there is a procedure to reset the clutch adaptation, but I don’t know it. If you ask on the Facebook CityBug group there will be likely someone on there who will know though.
I think your meant to keep a hand on that filling hose when you withdraw , it prevents any spillage and consequential accidents or 18 years worth of claims ,,,,
@@tiagok8203 no, this one is a manual however I believe the auto box is actually the same gearbox just that the clutch and gear changes are controlled by electronic actuators instead of by hands and feets.
It can be under filled if you don’t carry on filling until the level, but not really overfilled unless you do it on purpose really. As long as you put enough to reach the level plug in it will drain back out down to level as long as the level plug is out. If you overfill it, just leave the filler plug out until it stops coming out, then as long as you’re on level ground the level should be perfect.
@@mrt4409 yea I would. It’s not a hard job. As long as you put enough in so it’s overflowing from the fill plug, then wait for it to stop coming out before putting the full plug back in then it should be right.
I think so. As far as I’m aware the auto gearbox is actually the same gearbox as the manual but with electric actuators doing the work of clutching and gear changes, but I’ve never actually worked on one so can’t say for 100%
Yep, you can usually get a few go’s out of them. At work I change them every time as we have a box full in the workshop, but when I’m cocking about with my own stuff I only change them if they’re flat, or if I’ve got one to hand. They can be re-annealed too if your stuck. Aluminium ones smear with soap and heat til it goes black then let it cool gradually, copper ones heat till cherry red then quench. I think I did a video annealing a copper gasket a while ago come to think of it 🤔
@@rodneyhull9764 aye, I’m a motorcycle mechanic/MOT tester. I usually take a bit more care, and give a bit more attention to detail when I’m working on other people’s stuff than I do in these videos though 🤣
Incorrect gearbox oil - you need 75/80 GL4 not FS which is a Ford spec oil suitable for the type of bearing materials Ford use but also note it is a single grade oil unlike the multi grade oil required for your gearbox as the viscosity has to be 80 at temperature not 75
Read the small writing under the fully synthetic part. It meets various specs and is suitable for various manufacturers, GL-4 is listed amongst them. This is what the motorfactors system lists for the car anyway. Tbh, I really don’t think these cars are fussy on oil anyway. The engine for example lists a range from 0w20 fully synthetic, all the way to 15w40 mineral oil if you do some digging online.
