Good video again Simon, just one wee tip when changing pads remove the paint on the pads where metal touches metal makes it slide easier as its metal to metal and a small amount of copper grease also where its metal to metal, works a treat..
Useful information Simon! My favourite pad changing was on my Mitsubishi Shogun…they are very cleverly designed and the calliper just swings up leaving the pads like picking a book from a shelf…it took just minutes either side. My Discovery Sport was still on its original discs and pads at 43700 miles and the pads were only 40% worn at the last inspection..the discs completely unmarked. The Freelander was well into it second set by then plus new rear discs.🙂🙂🙂🙂Richard.
0:25 Assuming that didn't hit the disc? 2:33 Undoing the bottom bolt you can then pivot the caliper up and you can access the pads even easier. Still whichever method does the job is the main thing. 😀👍👍
I did this on my D3 last month. Today I went to the Land Rover show at Bath and West today. I flew the flag with my Powerful UK cap but I have to admit I went all out and had my LR Time tee shirt too 😀
The springy bit on the pad is the audible wear indicator I reckon. Makes a horrible noise when it hits the disc, to tell you it's time to change your pads. But clearly didn't work for you lol....
These pads should never be that tight to put in, You should have cleaned the carrier pad abutment points. That's why the old pads had worn out, and why the discs are in that state.
As was said before the pads should never be that tight. Unfortunately Nissan made them with little clearance. The new pads will jam in a short while, creating break drag, increasing fuel consumption, and worst uneven braking. Happened to my Navara twice until I realised what the issue was. Watch out. Solution was to file the edges of the new pad slightly to create the required clearance. My third set works properly now.
